EAT YOUR HEART OUT, LOS ANGELES ZAGAT SURVEY GOES TO CALABASAS, OAK PARK, VALLEY FOR TOP AWARDS.

Byline: DANA BARTHOLOMEW Staff Writer

One restaurant sets the standard for pure sushi. One raises the bar for California cuisine. A third draws diners for its gourmet game and rustic decor.

All three San Fernando Valley-area restaurants rank among the five best food picks in Los Angeles, according to the latest influential Zagat restaurant survey.

``I think it's fabulous, I think it's exciting,'' said Zagat Survey co- founder Nina Zagat, in Los Angeles to award the top picks for the 2007 Los Angeles survey today.

``There are so many terrific restaurants in the San Fernando Valley.''

Sushi Nozawa of Studio City -- whose chef Kazunori Nozawa has been dubbed the ``Sushi Nazi'' for booting patrons who request California rolls -- rose to the No. 3 best-food choice and No. 1 for Japanese food.

Leila's of Oak Park, a purveyor of fine wine and California cuisine, scored No. 4 for top food and No. 1 for California cooking.

Saddle Peak Lodge of Calabasas, a rustic steakhouse famous for serving such rare fare as elk and buffalo loin beneath mounted game trophies, ranked No. 5 for top food, No. 5 for top decor and No. 1 for American grub and steakhouse selections.

The survey also gave a nod to Dr. Hogly Wogly's in Van Nuys for No. 2 barbecue, Brandywine in Woodland Hills for No. 1 continental and Brent's Deli in Northridge for No. 1 deli in Los Angeles.

At Sushi Nozawa, Kazunori Nozawabeamed behind 10 ``Today's special: Trust me'' signs. Order sushi his way -- or no way.

The tiny chef, whose hole-in-the-wall once held the No. 1 spot for six years running, has long humbled Hollywood.

He once kicked out Oscar-winning actress Charlize Theron for ordering too much food.

Only the celebs come back for more.

``I get whatever he wants to give us,'' said Emmy-winning actor Ray Romano, polishing off a $50 lunch not of his own choosing. ``It's like butter.

``It's good and bad -- good because it's the best sushi I've ever had, and bad because I won't eat sushi anywhere else.''

``This is the restaurant that you drive by all other restaurants to get to,'' added Thomas Hudnut, president of the prestigious Harvard-Westlake School, seated before the famous chef.

At Leila's, owner and founder Peyman Afshar set up for dinner at his restaurant and wine bar painted tomato red, summer squash yellow and eggplant purple.

Opened in 1999, demanding patrons soon clamored for the best cheeses, rarest of wines and the now-shifting menu that includes such appetizers as ``duck confit pancake with Asian slaw.''

The Zagat guide says Leila's has a ``sophisticated, demanding clientele'' and ``can't believe such a gourmet restaurant exists all the way out in the hinterlands.''

``Amazing,'' said Afshar of his new Zagat standing. ``We'll take it.

``If you told me in 1999 you would have a table of four come in and spend $1,200, I would never have believed it.''

Though Saddle Peak Lodge is closed Tuesdays, restaurant owners were happy to return to the top restaurant list.

``Saddle Peak Lodge is thrilled, once again, to be a recipient of the prestigious Zagat Award,'' said restaurant owner Ann Ehringer in a statement.

``We appreciate the recognition of all of our efforts to maintain our excellent standing in the community.''

The Zagat Survey, now in its 27th year, based its 2007 Los Angeles survey on the input of nearly 8,000 diners at 2,000 Southern California restaurants.

Among the Zagat Survey findings:

-- Angelenos eat out 3.8 times a week, second in the nation to Texans.

-- 81 percent of Southlanders surveyed said they eat out as much or more than two years ago, with 70 percent saying they spend more on restaurant food.

-- 73 percent surveyed said they were willing to drive an hour for a worthwhile meal. Diners also prefer culinary diversity and creativity over celebrity chefs such as Wolfgang Puck.

And Angelenos, though they tip slightly less than the national average of 18.8 percent, love new restaurants.

``I think (you're) definitely adventuresome,'' said Zagat. ``There's a very free spirit among Angelenos -- eating outdoors is so much a part of your life.

``You like your flair.''

dana.bartholomew

(at)dailynews.com

[phone]

TOAST OF THE TOWN

Here are Los Angeles highlights from the 2007 Zagat guide, being released today:

TOP RATED:

1. Matsuhisa

2. Melisse

3. Sushi Nozawa

4. Leila's

5. Saddle Peak Lodge

MOST POPULAR:

1. Cheesecake Factory

2. A.O.C.

3. Spago

4. Cafe Bizou

5. Campanile 

TOP SERVICE:

1. Hotel Bel-Air

2. Providence

3. Melisse

4. Gardens

5. Brandywine

TOP OF THE AREA:

1. Sushi Nozawa

2. Saddle Peak

3. Katsu-ya

4. Brandywine

5. Asanebo

CAPTION(S):

4 photos, 2 boxes

Photo:

(1 -- color) General and assistant managers Kristin Ziazie and Iain Walling savor Saddle Peak Lodge's ranking in the 2007 Zagat guide.

(2) Peyman Afshar of Leila's in Oak Park reacts Tuesday to the news that his restaurant is one of five in the area to receive a top-rated standing in the 2007 Zagat guide.

Gus Ruelas/Staff Photographer

(3 -- color) ``I get whatever he wants to give us,'' said Emmy-winning actor Ray Romano about his visits to Sushi Nozawa on Ventura Boulevard in Studio City. ``It's good and bad -- good because it's the best sushi I've ever had, and bad because I won't eat sushi anywhere else.''

(4) Thomas Hudnut is seated at the bar Tuesday at Studio City's Sushi Nozawa restaurant, which won a Zagat top-rated award.

John McCoy/Staff Photographer

Box:

(1) Our critic Larry Lipson says:

(2) TOAST OF THE TOWN (see text)