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EAST MEETS WESTFIELD REATA GRILL OFFERS INTRIGUING CULINARY BLEND IN MALL SPACE.


Byline: Larry Lipson Restaurant Critic

COWBOY SUSHI sushi A Japanese raw fish delicacy that may be a vector for parasites–eg, Anasakis, which often affect sushi made from mackerel caught in early spring Endoscopy Edema, gastritis, erosion Clinical Myalgia, abdominal pain Radiology Thread-like larvae may ? Does that fit the new Reata reata

[Span.] lasso.
 Grill's own ``Legendary Western Cuisine'' description of its fare?

Hmmmmm. Seems rather bizarre.

Especially in a plush Western setting (in the Westfield Shoppingtown Promenade, Woodland Hills) displaying glorified glo·ri·fy  
tr.v. glo·ri·fied, glo·ri·fy·ing, glo·ri·fies
1. To give glory, honor, or high praise to; exalt.

2.
 saddles in glass cubicles and bookshelves holding novels by such prominent Western authors as Zane Gray.

Can't imagine a rugged cowpoke nibbling nibbling Nutrition The consumption of multiple–up to 17–'mini-meals' per day, as opposed to the usual 3 meals/day. Cf Bingeing, Gorging.  sushi in the bunkhouse bunk·house  
n.
A building providing sleeping quarters on a ranch or in a camp.
. Even if it is a beef tenderloin sushi roll Sushi Roll

A candlestick pattern consisting of 10 bars where the first five (inside bars) are confined within a narrow range of highs and lows and the second five (outside bars) engulf the first with both a higher high and lower low.
 that the Reata kitchen created.

The name Reata (which means ``lariat'' in Spanish) may sound familiar. That's because it made a brief, though much publicized appearance in the Rodeo Collection in Beverly Hills a few years ago, closing in June 2001.

This time though, it's not as huge, costs less in rent and has a Thai chef, Ped Phommavong, in charge, giving the food an Asian accent.

Some of his dishes seem to work better than others.

The holdover hold·o·ver  
n.
One that is held over from an earlier time: a political advisor who was a holdover from the Reagan era; a family tradition that is a holdover from my grandparents' childhood.

Noun 1.
 tenderloin tamales ($8.95), recommended at the first local Reata, seem just as tasty the second time around.

And a thick, seared sear 1  
v. seared, sear·ing, sears

v.tr.
1. To char, scorch, or burn the surface of with or as if with a hot instrument. See Synonyms at burn1.

2.
 tuna steak ($20.95) with a mango and sweet red pepper topping on a bed of greens doesn't come forth overdone from this kitchen.

Indeed, a slab of pepper-crusted tenderloin ($29.95) requested rare is delivered exactly as ordered, satisfying a beef-loving diner to the fullest.

And a pink, moist, house pork chop Pork Chop

An arrangement on the floor of the NYSE whereby clerks cover the booth of a floor broker and accept orders, phone calls, and associated tasks.

Notes:
The clerks in charge of maintaining the booths are directly compensated by the floor brokers who own them.
 ($17.95), a marvelous example of how gratifying grat·i·fy  
tr.v. grat·i·fied, grat·i·fy·ing, grat·i·fies
1. To please or satisfy: His achievement gratified his father. See Synonyms at please.

2.
 a properly cooked pork chop can be, receives my nod as the No. 1 entree tried here to date.

Joined with scallion-black pepper mashed potato, broccoli and pineapple salsa accompaniments, the pork chop plate made up for a disastrous, dry, overcooked mahi mahi ($22.95) dish served here on a previous night, also a night of long waits and service glitches.

Additionally of questionable merit is a boneless breast of chicken ($15.95) grilled to toughness on one side and delivered drenched in a creamy caper sauce.

But if you can handle something extra spicy, crab-stuffed chile rellenos ($24.95) will definitely fire up your palate.

Speaking of fiery heat, I'm still looking for Looking for

In the context of general equities, this describing a buy interest in which a dealer is asked to offer stock, often involving a capital commitment. Antithesis of in touch with.
 an intriguing soup listed on the menu. Reata's jalapeno and cilantro soup (cup $3.95, bowl $4.95) has yet to be available. But both the signature tortilla soup and a cream of mushroom soup du jour (same prices) have offered good tastes on separate evenings, though they certainly could have arrived hotter.

And oh yes, for a refreshing, fulfilling starter, the large wedge of iceberg ($5.95) with a tomato vinaigrette and plenty of good quality, crumbled bleu cheese cannot be denied.

Always wanting something different and remembering that I liked Reata's dessert tacos ($6.95) three years ago, I chose the house nutty bread pudding in bourbon cream ($6.95) as an ending.

Only so-so.

I should have stuck with the sweet tacos.

Larry Lipson, (818) 713-3668

larry.lipson(at)dailynews.com

REATA GRILL

Food: Two and one half stars - Wine: One star - Service: One and one half stars

Where: Westfield Shoppingtown Promenade, 6100 Topanga Canyon Blvd., Woodland Hills. Easy access on Erwin Street just west of Owensmouth Avenue.

Hours: Open for lunch, dinner and snacks from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily, to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday.

Recommended items: Tenderloin tamales, iceberg wedge with crumbled bleu cheese, pork chop, seared ahi tuna, pepper-crusted tenderloin, crab chile rellenos.

How much: Starters from $4 to $10, entrees from $15 to $30, desserts $7 each. Full bar. Major credit cards accepted except Diners Club.

Wine list: Several pages, plenty of choices - but highly priced. One wine, on sale at a local store for $7.99, is ticketed at $28. Wines start at $22 for a Beringer white zinfandel. Lowest red is a 2002 South African cab-merlot blend for $24. Most above $50. Of 17 chardonnays, 11 are above $40. Corkage: $15.

Reservations: Helpful. Call (818) 347-2090.

CAPTION(S):

photo

Photo:

Reata Grill's properly cooked, moist house pork chop plate ($17.95) includes scallion-black pepper mashed potatoes, broccoli and pineapple salsa.

David Sprague/Staff Photographer
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Article Details
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Title Annotation:Review; U
Publication:Daily News (Los Angeles, CA)
Date:Oct 17, 2003
Words:680
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