EARS TO SUMMER! SWEET CORN IS PLENTIFUL AND DELICIOUS.

Byline: Natalie Haughton Food Editor

Bite into plump, sweet kernels of a just-cooked ear of white, yellow or bicolor corn - and the wonderful sweet taste of summer snaps to life.

Whether you eat a juicy corn ear slathered with butter that's dripping from your chin, sprinkled with seasonings or plain off the cob, it's the quintessential summer food that evokes the spirit of the season.

Sweet corn has come a long way in the last two decades. It used to be that once picked, the sugars in old-fashioned corn varieties converted to starch almost immediately, losing much of their sweet flavor within half an hour. So the corn had to be picked and cooked immediately - no later than the same day.

But that has changed in the last 15 years with the development and introduction of the newer supersweet and enhanced hybrids, each containing dozens of varieties. They are bred for sugar content two to four times sweeter than traditional, bygone varieties. It's resulted in a much longer shelf life - up to 10 days if kept cold.

Supersweet corn, with its heightened sweetness and crisp texture, is now the mainstay of the commercially grown fresh corn crop, notes Tom Stefanopoulos, owner of Stamoules Produce, Mendota, one of the state's largest fresh sweet corn producers. His 5,000 acres are some of the state's 28,500 acres planted in supersweet corn that is marketed under the S&S label.

Sweet corn, among America's favorite fresh vegetables (though technically not a vegetable but a grain, the seed of a type of grass), is available year-round with seasons varying from state to state. Florida is the largest producer of fresh sweet corn, followed by New York, Georgia and California.

Per capita consumption of fresh sweet corn has increased about 50 percent in the last decade to 9.7 pounds last year. Per capita consumption of frozen corn was 9 pounds in 2003, and almost 8 1/2 pounds canned.

There are four major commercial types of corn grown in the United states today - dent (or field) corn, sweet corn, flint (Indian) corn and popcorn. It's the dent corn - used for animal feed, corn syrup, ethylene alcohol, corn syrup, cornstarch and much more - that is the most important, and which is grown and harvested in the largest quantities, notes Olwen Woodier, author of ``Corn, 140 Recipes: Roasted, Creamed, Simmered + More.''

Sweet corn refers to the type of corn eaten fresh, on or off the cob, frozen or canned. ``Indian corn is usually sold as decoration, but is edible when ground and makes a sweet high-protein cornmeal for breads, muffins and pancakes. Popcorn is the corn the Native Americans shared with the Pilgrims at the first Thanksgiving.''

The California fresh sweet corn season is in full swing in the Mendota area, 40 miles west of Fresno, points out Stefanopoulos. Corn is an annual plant - and takes from 85 to 130 days from planting to harvest, depending on the season, he adds, noting that he plants corn from February until Aug. 20.

``Our harvesting season is from June 1 to Nov. 10 - and we produce 2.5 million cases of 48 ears each.'' The company, which has been growing corn for 25 years (all yellow varieties for the first 10 years), switched to supersweet and ultra-sweet varieties 14 to 15 years ago. Today the crop is 75 percent to 80 percent white corn (due to consumer demand and popularity); the rest is yellow or bicolor.

Processing is different nowadays, too, he says, adding that cooling is easier and faster. ``Our processing plant and cooler are within one to five miles of the fields - and the time from harvesting to cooling the corn is no more than an hour. Cooling makes a big difference and stops the conversion of sugar to starch. We force-air cool the corn for two hours, then bring the temperature down to 34 degrees F.''

Once the corn is packed, a machine injects ice into the boxes on pallets and they're ready for shipping in refrigerated trucks. Corn harvested at 4 a.m. can be shipped by 9 or 10 a.m. the same day.

Prima Bella Produce in Tracy ships corn (under the Gloriann label) year-round, notes Claudia Gotterba, sales and marketing manager. The company buys corn from growers - in the Brentwood area of Northern California in the summer, in the California desert from September to December and in the spring, and Florida and Mexico in the winter months - husks it and packs it in three-, four- and eight-pack trays. The tray packs, which are more expensive than loose corn, have a 14-day shelf life because of the PVC film wrap, which helps keep the atmosphere of the corn so that it stays sweet, she says.

Recommends Gotterba, ``Corn is fabulous raw off the cob,'' Simply rinse the corn with a white vinegar and water solution and dive in.

Natalie Haughton, [phone]

natalie.haughton(at)dailynews.com

SUMMER SUCCOTASH SALAD

DRESSING:

1/4 cup red wine vinegar

2 tablespoons whole-grain mustard

2 tablespoons minced shallot 

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1/4 cup vegetable oil

1 tablespoon chopped thyme

1 tablespoon chopped tarragon 

Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper

VEGETABLES:

1 pound yellow wax beans, cut into 1 1/2-inch lengths

1 pound green beans, cut into 1 1/2-inch lengths

1 cup shelled fresh OR frozen lima beans OR edamame (about 1 pound unshelled)

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

4 ears corn, shucked and kernels cut from the cobs

2 pints cherry, pear and other small tomatoes, halved (about 4 cups)

3 green onions, minced

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

For Dressing, in a food processor, puree vinegar, mustard and shallot. With machine on, slowly add olive and vegetable oils and process until emulsified. Add thyme and tarragon and pulse just until combined. Transfer to a bowl and season with salt and pepper.

For Vegetables, in a large pot of boiling salted water, cook yellow wax and green beans until crisp-tender, about 7 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer beans to a colander and refresh under cold running water. Drain and pat dry. Add lima beans to pot and boil until tender, about 4 minutes. Drain and refresh under cold running water. Drain well and pat dry. Combine green beans, wax beans and lima beans in a very large bowl.

In large skillet, heat olive oil. Add corn and cook over moderate heat, stirring often, until crisp-tender, about 3 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer corn to a plate to cool. Add corn, tomatoes and green onions to beans in large bowl. Add dressing and toss gently until vegetables are thoroughly coated. Season with salt and pepper and serve. Makes 12 servings.

NOTE: The dressing can be refrigerated 3 days. The dressed salad can be refrigerated for 4 hours. Return to room temperature before serving.

From ``Food & Wine Fast,'' recipe by David Page.

CHEDDAR CORN CHOWDER

8 ounces bacon, chopped

1/4 cup good olive oil

6 cups chopped yellow onions (4 large onions)

4 tablespoons unsalted butter

1/2 cup all-purpose flour

2 teaspoons kosher salt

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric 

12 cups chicken stock

6 cups medium-diced white boiling potatoes, unpeeled (2 pounds)

10 cups corn kernels, fresh (12 to 15 ears, depending on size) OR frozen (3 pounds)

2 cups half-and-half

1/2 pound sharp white Cheddar cheese, grated

In a large stockpot on medium-high heat, cook bacon and olive oil until bacon is crisp, about 5 minutes. Remove bacon with a slotted spoon and reserve. Reduce heat to medium, add onions and butter to fat, and cook 10 minutes, until onions are translucent. Stir in flour, salt, pepper and turmeric and cook 3 minutes. Add chicken stock and potatoes, bring to a boil and simmer uncovered 15 minutes, until potatoes are tender. If using fresh corn, cut kernels off cobs and blanch kernels 3 minutes in salted boiling water. Drain. (If using frozen corn, skip this step.) Add corn to soup, then add half-and-half and Cheddar. Cook 5 more minutes, until cheese is melted. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve hot with a garnish of crumbled bacon. Makes 10 to 12 servings.

From ``The Barefoot Contessa Cookbook,'' by Ina Garten.

SEASONED BUTTERS

--DILL BUTTER: Mix together 1/4 cup butter, softened, 1 tablespoon chopped fresh chives, 1 tablespoon chopped fresh dill and 1 teaspoon lemon juice. Enough to spread on 8 cooked ears corn.

--ITALIAN BUTTER: Mix together 1/4 cup butter, softened, 1/4 teaspoon garlic salt, 1 tablespoon chopped fresh basil leaves and 1 tablespoon chopped fresh oregano leaves. Enough to spread on 8 cooked ears corn.

--HORSERADISH PARSLEY BUTTER: Mix together 1/4 cup butter, softened, 1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley, 2 teaspoons prepared horseradish, 1/4 teaspoon salt and 1/8 teaspoon pepper. Enough to spread on 8 cooked ears corn.

Corny ideas

Here are a few kernels shared by corn experts.

--Freshness in corn equates to staying cool; warmth hastens the conversion of sugars to starch in the kernels. When buying corn, look for cold corn displayed in a refrigerated bin or on ice. If corn at the supermarket feels warm, ask a produce person for cold ears from the back. Do not buy corn that has been sitting in the hot sun at farmers markets.

--Choose ears with tightly wrapped, bright green and slightly moist husks (which hold moisture in the kernels). Avoid loose yellowing husks as they indicate old, dry corn. Tassels (silky strings at the tip) should be light color, not brown and stringy. Peel back some of the layers of husks and look for plump, firm, medium kernels with milky fluid (puncture a kernel one with your fingernail to test; watery liquid indicates immature corn) that are not dry or shriveled. Silk should be moist, soft and golden brown.

--Be sure the corn kernels extend to the end or tip of the cob.

--Once purchased, take corn home immediately (don't let it sit in a hot car; put in an ice chest or cooler to transport, if necessary). Store it, unhusked, in the refrigerator in a plastic bag and use within two to three days. For best flavor, the sooner you cook the corn, the better.

--When ready to cook, remove husks and silks and snap or cut off stalk ends, if you don't plan to use for handles.

--To remove kernels from the cob, trim flat at stem end or tip, stand cob vertically on a cutting board or in a shallow bowl and cut kernels off from top to bottom with a small sharp knife.

--Keep in mind that the types of sweet corn grown commercially and eaten today are tender enough to be boiled, steamed or microwaved in a few minutes or even eaten raw. Years ago, corn required at least 30 to 45 minutes boiling time to be palatable.

--Corn cooks quickly - 2 to 3 minutes shucked in boiling water; 2 minutes per ear on high power in the microwave oven (with husks on, kernels sprinkled with water); steamed shucked over 1 inch boiling water (put on a steamer rack or directly in water), covered, 2 to 4 minutes; grilled (in water-soaked husks or without husks) 7 to 10 minutes; or roasted (shucked) in a preheated 400- to 425-degree oven 12 to 15 minutes, turning occasionally and brushing with a little water.

--If you get your hands on some great-tasting corn this summer, consider freezing it to enjoy later in the year. To freeze whole ears of corn, scald ears in a pot of boiling water about 3 to 4 minutes and then plunge into cold water. Drain and freeze in resealable plastic bags. To freeze kernels, repeat the procedure for the ears, but scald only 1 minute. Once drained, remove kernels and pack in airtight containers or plastic bags.

--One ear of corn yields about 1/2 cup kernels.

--Corn is a good source of complex carbohydrates, fiber, B vitamins (thiamine and folate), potassium, iron and magnesium, is low in sodium and fat and contains some vitamin C. A medium ear of supersweet corn has about 75 calories.

CAPTION(S):

5 photos, box

Photo:

(1 -- cover - color) SALUTING THE KERNELS

Supersweet corn takes center stage

Tony Cenicola/The New York Times

(2 -- color) no caption (Cheddar Corn Chowder)

From ``The Barefoot Contessa Cookbook,'' Clarkson Potter

(3 -- color) no caption (Summer Succotash Salad)

From ``Food & Wine Fast,'' American Express Publishing Corp.

(4 -- color) no caption (corn)

(5 -- color) no caption (butter spred on cooked corn)

Box:

Corny ideas (see text)