Dusting.

BUSTED!

Chefs caught hitting the DUST.

DUST: You might know it as the fuzzy stuff that runs along the edge of a desk, or that sits in a transparent layer on your television set. Maybe you can't see it from all angles, but it's there constantly collecting. This sort of dust always seems just to be sitting, waiting for someone to notice and actually do something about it--even if that just means wiping it off with the edge of a shirt. That's the bad dust. And it has few admirers.

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The other kind of DUST is all good. It brings to mind basic baking or some other introductory or nostalgic cooking procedure. Go check even the oldest recipe book. The instructions might tell you to 'Dust with a little flour before searing.' 'Give it a light dusting of powdered sugar.' 'Coat or cover with a dusting of cocoa.' It's essential. It's back to basic.

The ostensibly simple procedure amped up a bit in the 1980s. With Cajun, Caribbean and cuisine of the Southwest in style, dusting with ancho chile, cilantro, peppers--and liberal amounts of pepper--was explored. Swing over to Santa Fe and the Coyote Cafe, to Red Sage in DC. Dance on down to New Orleans for that dusted deep-fried dough, the one that's shaped into squares and sugared. It's dusted and crusted in Florida--for fish, that is.

But there's a new kind of dust blowing through town. It can be red, brown, green or yellow. It may come in the form of fennel, pork rind or porcini. Could be the color of vanilla or manila. It's been known to be toasted and ground into something quite granular. Or maybe its dried, seasoned and shattered into fine sand. Scatter just a scant.

Art Culinaire explored various menus in Manhattan and found dust in all corners of the city. Luckily, Rudy Giuliani didn't clean up everything in New York. At Indian-inspired Tabla, the restaurant offers taro-dusted halibut with white beans. It was orange-dusted sea scallops on Sullivan Street at the contemporary-American Cub Room. Travel to Chelsea where eclectic is key as Chef Gary Robbins concocts cocoa-dusted venison with pomegranate seeds and cucumber sorbet.

Regardless which part of the world the food originates, this is a technique that translates well.

At Charlie Palmer's Dry Creek Kitchen in Healdsburg, California, Chef Mateo Granados shows us a tin of something that resembles a fine flour--is it almond or cake flour? No, it's neither. Rather, it's popcorn dust. Popcorn dust? Mateo tells us that essentially, it's popcorn that's been oiled, popped nice and slow (to give it that puffy sensation of snow) and laid out on a sheet tray to dry. Finally, it's pulverized. The result is an intense popcorn flavor, and here at Dry Creek it's used to dust and add flavor to filet mignon.

Dusting serves dual purposes. Not only is it used as a flavoring agent all by itself, it also helps seal in what flavor is already there. Aesthetically it's appealing, adding interest and promoting color and texture.

Morou of Signatures in Washington, DC, went wild with the topic. The chef was giddy showing AC around his kitchen where, for the purposes of our photo shoot, there were all kinds of random ingredients hanging on racks, drying on sheet pans and collected in containers. The showcase of eclectic material was arranged in such a way it warranted admiration. Now this was exciting.

We saw strips of deep red beef jerky, sheets of golden-colored glucose that looked like glass, orange rind and salmon skin. There were pieces of pork rind drying on sheet pans to be fashioned into the chef's tandoori pork rind dust. This particular procedure was no simple undertaking. Spices were toasted. Pork skin marinated and dried, coated with oil and sent to the oven to roast. Then out again for a final air-drying, grinding and garnishing. Its ultimate destination--a speckled band for lamb chops. Garish? No way, not this!

As for that little layer on the top of the bookshelf? Stop before you blow. It's just a little dust.

Scott Conant, L'Impero, New York

"IT'S NOT ABOUT MEATBALLS!"

HE SAYS IT JOKINGLY. BUT HE'S SERIOUS. AND PASSIONATE ABOUT CHANGING THE PERCEPTION OF ITALIAN FOOD IN AMERICA. WE SAT AROUND WITH SCOTT CONANT, MUNCHING ON BISCOTTI AND JUST TALKED. SCOTT LIKES TO TALK. SO WE LET HIM AND GOT AN EARFUL ALONG THE WAY.

"I think Italian food is so poorly represented in this county. It's the most bastardized ethnic cuisine with the exception of Chinese food. I went out to dinner in Miami with my girlfriend and I couldn't believe what came out of the kitchen--and from an Italian guy! He didn't salt his pasta water and the garlic was completely undercooked. That's basic stuff. It's painful to watch. A chef has a responsibility to serve things the right way, if for no other reason but for the craft itself. And if you aren't going to do it, then just punch out and go home. It kills me."

"It's perpetual. For the life of me, I don't understand this. Italian culture is known for elegance and sophistication. Think about it. There's Ducati, Ferrari and Armani, the Renaissance, Michelangelo and da Vinci. Why is it when it comes to Italian food in this country, it's disgusting. It's just slopped on a plate?!"

We agree. It's disturbing.

The conversation turns to diets as Scott mentions he was just in Miami where the locals make visitors feel like they are out of shape--regardless if you're in great shape! We wonder, with his seriously crazy schedule, what does Scott eat? He's amused by the question. "Oh, I have the worst diet," the chef says reaching for the plate of biscotti he just brought out of the kitchen. "Only doctors eat worse than chefs. I've had five cups of coffee today. And that's all. And these biscotti." He takes another one.

"I had a pizza the other day from one of those delivery places. It was like chewing on gum. It's a rule of thumb--I won't eat fast food. I remember when I was a kid going to McDonald's and a large fry was the size of what a small fry is today. Not that I go to McDonald's today, mind you. But I love sesame chicken from bad Chinese places!"

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There are a few serious places he does like and will eat at regularly. He praises Andrew Carmellini at Cafe Bouloud and Mark Ladner at Lupa, saying they are "great chefs." He is a regular at Ferdinando's Focacceria in Brooklyn. "Admittedly, I'm very difficult. But I eat everything because I'm an animal! But when there's quality involved, I go to Daniel a lot, because Daniel is the man!"

Somehow the conversation takes a circular turn. Seems Scott left a thought or two unfinished.

"In this country, people associate Italian food with the grandmother from Italy who has the kerchief on her head and makes meatballs. If one more restaurant in this #@% city opens up a restaurant with meatballs on the menu ..." He excuses his use of expletives before continuing. "I don't know what a s%@ meatball is! It's killing me, man!"

"I'd like my restaurants (he mentions he'd like to open another one) to appeal to a culture that is misunderstood. In Italy, you go to a Michelin star, a trattoria or osteria and there is a level of elegance--that's the standard in any town. There is pride in what is served. A chef has a generous soul, so yes, quantity is a factor, but it should not come at the risk of quality. People need to experience flavors, take a risk, have something else."

"So, if I see one more meatball ..."

Morou, Signatures, Washington DC

"WATCHOUT--IT'S NOT USDA APPROVED!"

MOROU IS TALKING ABOUT BEER MADE FROM the fermented sap of the palm nut tree in his native West Africa. He's painting a vivid scene of the local street food. And should Art Culinaire ever make it to the Ivory Coast (where he's from), Ghana, or Senegal, be on the lookout for the local brew tapped right from the tree. It tastes great, but "watch out," he warns--the homemade hooch could be lethal.

Morou tells me that West Africa (exclusive of Morocco) is "a goldmine waiting to be discovered." The flavors in the small villages are "impressive." He suggests to head to the 'maquis,' those small street-side stands covered by palm tree shades that specialize in bush meat (essentially smoked meat) flavored with all sorts of spicy sauces. You'll get your food fried to order, served up in newspaper or banana leaf. Those markets open up at 4pm and close at 3am.

Many chefs' earliest memories of the kitchen begin in their teens. But Morou relays a cooking tale from age four. His family would butcher and skin their own meat. "My brother and I would hold the legs of the lamb and compete to see who could pull the skin off the meat first." He describes dinners as being large--many times impromptu--gatherings, mostly outdoors, with sometimes upwards of 40 people dropping by!

Morou came to the United States November 20, 1988. It's a date he remembers well. But he didn't begin cooking until years later. "One of my brothers (Morou comes from a family with 11 children) thought that computer science would be the next big thing. So, I did that for two years. But that wasn't really my thing. My other brother worked as a line cook at Francesco I'Ricchi's. So, I took a job in the restaurant washing dishes." Cooking eventually became a great way to stop washing pots and pans. It wasn't too long before Morou was versed on every station on the line. He also discovered he loved to cook.

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Since 2002, he's been the executive chef at Signatures, located in the nation's capitol. It's the perfect launching pad to present a new kind of cuisine his--and it upstages American heritage right in its own backyard.

Morou takes comfort in reaching back to those flavors of the Ivory Coast, bringing the unusual to the American palate. "People are very accepting of my cuisine. I mean, I really don't know a chef out there who wants to cook chicken or salmon! But we have to have some standards on the menu for the public."

His "modern tribal cuisine" may blend cultures, but he hopes people won't mistake it for fusion. About that cuisine, Morou has a strong opinion, "fusion is all about getting products from around the globe--too quickly and not knowing what to do with them. A chef needs to have a lot of experience with a product." He also points out that fusion has become all too easy to attempt with the advent of overnight express mail. "Fusion is like mixing disco and hip-hop. A chef should stick with what he knows. He doesn't need to copy another culture."

"When I experiment, I ask myself, 'is it the same flavor(s) as I remember from Africa?' I go from spice to spice searching. I'm always comparing what I do now to something I've experienced before."

Morou tells us that southwestern cuisine is the nearest thing America has to African cuisine. Many of the same methods (like smoking and drying) are employed. That's one of the reasons why he was immediately comfortable working at Mark Miller's Red Sage. He spent six years in the early 1990s there as executive sous chef before moving on. Eventually, he found his way back to the restaurant and was promoted to executive chef/partner. That was before he came to Signatures.

Something Miller said to Morou has stuck: side dishes need to be elevated to the same level as the "star" of a plate--a piece of meat or fish. "Mark said, 'sides should be brought up, not taken down.'"

He's kept Miller's advice close, making memorable dishes like his cowpea fritters (soaked, pureed, fried black eyed peas that are lighter than a feather).

It's African street food served up on the most prominent avenue in America--Pennsylvania.

We think Washington may want to consider planting a few palms.

RELATED ARTICLE: Spice-Dusted Chicken with Currant-Liver Sauce (Serves 2)

CONANT

Nebbiolo, Roero

Ca'Rossa

Piedmont, Italy 1999

directions

For the polenta: In a pot, add cream and milk; bring to a low boil. Whisk in cornmeal; reduce heat to a simmer and cook for approximately 30 minutes, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon. Add butter, Parmigiano-Reggiano and season with salt to taste. Set aside, keeping warm.

For the chicken: Preheat oven to 450 degrees. In a spice grinder, combine star anise, nutmeg, cloves and cumin; pulverize to a fine powder. Set aside one teaspoon of the spice mixture for garnish. Brush one tablespoon of the olive oil onto chicken; rub with remaining spice mixture and salt to taste. In a large pan, heat remaining olive oil. Sear chicken, skin side down, until golden brown. Turn chicken over and roast in oven to finish cooking. Remove from oven and let rest for about ten minutes. Remove meat from bones and slice into 1/2-inch thick pieces.

For the currant-liver sauce: In a saucepan, bring stock to a simmer. Add currants and continue simmering for five minutes. Add chicken livers and bring to a boil while stirring constantly. Add chives and season with salt and pepper to taste. Set aside, keeping warm.

To serve: Spoon polenta onto plate and arrange chicken slices on top. Drizzle sauce around chicken; garnish with almond slices and sprinkle with reserved spice mixture.

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ingredients

For the polenta:

1 cup heavy cream
1 cup milk
2/3 cup cornmeal
1 tablespoon butter
2 tablespoons grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
Salt to taste

For the chicken:

5 star anise, toasted
1 1/2 teaspoons ground nutmeg, toasted
1 teaspoon whole cloves, toasted
1 teaspoon cumin seeds, toasted
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 2 1/2-pound chicken, split in half and backbone removed
Kosher salt to taste

For the currant-liver sauce:

3/4 cup reduced chicken stock
2 tablespoons dried currants
4 chicken livers, finely chopped
1 teaspoon finely chopped chives
Salt and pepper to taste

For the garnish:

Almond slices, toasted

RELATED ARTICLE: Truffle-Dusted Rib-Eye Steak (Serves 2)

CONANT

Brunello di Montalcino

Le Presi

Tuscany, Italy 1995

directions

For the rib-eye steak: Prepare a hot grill and preheat oven to 250 degrees. Season steak with salt and pepper to taste; grill on each side for approximately five minutes. Transfer to a pan and top with olive oil, truffle powder, garlic and rosemary; roast in oven to desired doneness. Remove from oven and let rest for five minutes. Pour steak pan juices into a small pan, stir in truffle oil and gently simmer over low heat for one minute. Remove butcher's twine from steak before serving.

For the kale and mushrooms: In a saute pan, heat olive oil. Add shallots and saute until lightly caramelized. Add kale and mushrooms; cook until tender. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

To serve: Arrange a bed of kale and mushrooms on a plate and top with steak. Drizzle with pan juices; garnish with truffles and sprinkle with fleur de sel.

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ingredients

For the rib-eye steak:

1 24-ounce dry-aged rib-eye steak, tied with butcher's twine
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon white truffle powder
2 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed
2 sprigs rosemary
2 teaspoons truffle oil
Salt and pepper to taste

For the kale and mushrooms:

1 tablespoon olive oil
1 shallot, peeled and roughly chopped
1/2 bunch kale, stemmed, torn into pieces and blanched
4 ounces bluefoot mushrooms
Salt and pepper to taste

For the garnish:

White truffle, roughly chopped
Fleur de sel

RELATED ARTICLE: Slow-Roasted Salmon with Red Pepper Dust (Serves 2)

CONANT

Costa D'Amalfi, Furore Bianco

Gran Furor di Marisa Cuoma

Campanio, Italy 2001

directions

For the salmon: Preheat oven to 125 degrees (the pilot light alone may provide adequate heat). In a spice grinder, pulverize red pepper flakes and juniper to a powder. Set aside one teaspoon of the spice mixture for garnish. In a dish, pour olive oil over salmon and sprinkle with remaining spice mixture; marinate in the refrigerator for 30 minutes. Transfer the salmon to a parchment-lined sheet pan; season with salt and pepper to taste; drizzle with marinade and top with green onions and shallots. Roast in oven for one hour or to desired doneness, basting frequently. Remove from oven and cut into four slices. Set aside.

For the clams and escarole: In a saute pan, heat olive oil. Add shallots and escarole; saute until shallots are translucent. Add clams, mushrooms and fish stock; cover and cook until clams open. Season with salt and pepper to taste and set aside, keeping warm.

To serve: Arrange salmon pieces on a plate and sprinkle with reserved spice mixture. Serve with clams and escarole.

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ingredients

For the salmon:

2 teaspoons red pepper flakes
2 teaspoons juniper berries
1/2 cup olive oil
1 12-ounce salmon fillet, skinned
1 green onion, thinly sliced
1/2 shallot, peeled and thinly sliced
Salt and pepper to taste

For the clams and escarole:

1 tablespoon olive oil
1/2 shallot, peeled and thinly sliced
1/2 head escarole, green part only, roughly chopped
6 cherrystone clams
4 bluefoot mushrooms, halved lengthwise
2 tablespoons fish stock
Salt and pepper to taste

RELATED ARTICLE: Juniper-Dusted Venison Loin with Lagrein Sauce (Serves 2)

CONANT

Lagrein Riserva

Abbazia di Novacella

Alto Adige, Italy 2001

directions

For the venison: Set aside one teaspoon of the juniper for garnish. Brush half of the olive oil onto venison and rub with juniper, pepper, thyme and salt to taste; set aside in refrigerator for three hours.

For the Lagrein sauce: In a saucepan, render pancetta. Add shallots, apples, cinnamon and peppercorns; saute until apples are tender. Deglaze with wine and add honey; reduce liquid by half. Add cassis liqueur, stock and thyme; reduce to a thin sauce consistency, skimming surface as necessary. Strain twice through a fine-mesh sieve. Set aside, keeping warm.

To finish the venison: Preheat oven to 250 degrees. In a hot pan, sear venison on all sides. Drizzle remaining olive oil over venison and roast in oven to desired doneness. Remove from oven and let rest for five minutes. Cut into 1/2-inch slices.

For the canederli: In a bowl, combine all ingredients, mixing well. Form into small patties. In a nonstick pan over medium heat, brush pan with olive oil and cook canederli until golden brown on both sides.

To serve: Arrange venison on a plate with canederli; sprinkle with reserved juniper and fleur de sel. Drizzle with Lagrein sauce and garnish plate with brussel sprout leaves.

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For the venison:

1 1-pound venison loin, trimmed
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon juniper berries, ground
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
3 sprigs thyme, stemmed
Salt to taste

For the Lagrein sauce:

1 ounce pancetta, roughly chopped
1 shallot, peeled and roughly chopped
1 small Granny Smith apple, peeled, cored and roughly chopped
1/2 cinnamon stick
1/2 teaspoon black peppercorns
1 cup Lagrein wine
1 tablespoon honey
3 tablespoons cassis liqueur
1 1/2 cups reduced chicken stock
2 sprigs thyme
Salt and pepper to taste

For the canederli:

1 cup cooked polenta, room temperature
1 tablespoon finely chopped speck*
1 shallot, peeled and finely chopped
2 sprigs thyme, stemmed and roughly chopped
1/2 cup breadcrumbs
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1 egg yolk
1 tablespoon finely chopped chives
Salt and pepper to taste
Olive oil for cooking

For the garnish:

Fleur de sel
Brussel sprout leaves, blanched

* Bacon can be substituted.

RELATED ARTICLE: Bean and Goat Cheese Salad with Bee Pollen Dust (Serves 4)

CONANT

Ribollo Gialla

Girolamo Dorigo

Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy 2002

directions

For the truffle vinaigrette: In a bowl, add all ingredients; whisk until combined. Set aside for salad and garnish.

For the salad: In a saute pan, add haricots vert, wax beans, potatoes and one teaspoon of the vinaigrette; saute until warm, and season with salt and pepper to taste. Toss assorted greens with one tablespoon of the vinaigrette. Set aside.

For the goat cheese: Preheat oven to 300 degrees. In a bowl, combine all ingredients. Form into 12 quenelles and place on a half sheet pan. Bake goat cheese until just heated through and remove from oven.

To serve: Arrange salad and goat cheese on a plate; sprinkle with bee pollen. Serve remaining truffle vinaigrette on the side.

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ingredients

For the truffle vinaigrette:

1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 tablespoon white truffle oil
1 white truffle, roughly chopped
Salt and pepper to taste

For the salad:

1/3 pound haricots vert, blanched and halved lengthwise
1/3 pound wax beans, blanched and halved lengthwise
2 small purple potatoes, cooked, peeled and diced
2 small red potatoes, cooked, peeled and diced
2 cups assorted greens
Salt and pepper to taste

For the goat cheese:

12 ounces goat cheese
1 tablespoon stemmed and finely chopped parsley
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil

For the garnish:

Bee pollen

RELATED ARTICLE: Fennel-Dusted Lamb Loin with Garden Vegetables (Serves 4)

CONANT

Aglianico del Vulture

Re Manfredi

Basilicata, Italy 1999

For the lamb: In a spice grinder, combine fennel, coriander, paprika, red pepper flakes and cayenne pepper; pulverize to a fine powder. Set aside one teaspoon of the spice mixture for garnish. Brush olive oil onto lamb; rub with spice mixture, salt and pepper to taste. Set aside in refrigerator for 24 hours.

For the sauce: In a saucepan, heat olive oil. Add shallots, thyme and red pepper; saute until shallots are lightly browned. Deglaze with vinegar and wine; reduce liquid by half. Add stocks; simmer for 15 to 20 minutes. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve and season with salt and pepper to taste. Set aside, keeping warm.

To finish the lamb: Preheat oven to 300 degrees. In a hot pan, sear lamb on all sides and roast in oven to desired doneness. Remove from oven and let rest for five minutes. Cut into 1/2-inch slices.

For the vegetables: In a saute pan, heat half of the olive oil. Add peas, sugar snap peas and purple potatoes; saute until heated. Season with salt and pepper to taste. In a separate saute pan, heat remaining olive oil and saute fingerling potatoes until heated.

To serve: Sprinkle lamb with reserved spice mixture, and arrange on a plate with vegetables. Drizzle with sauce and garnish with chives.

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For the lamb:

1 tablespoon fennel seeds, toasted
1 teaspoon coriander seeds, toasted
1 teaspoon paprika, toasted
1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes, toasted
Pinch of cayenne pepper, toasted
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 10-ounce lamb loins, trimmed
Salt and pepper to taste

For the sauce:

1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
1 shallot, peeled and finely chopped
2 sprigs thyme
Pinch of red pepper flakes
3 tablespoons red wine vinegar
1/3 cup white wine
1 1/2 cups reduced brown chicken stock
1/3 cup chicken stock
Salt and pepper to taste

For the vegetables:

2 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 cup peas, blanched
1/2 pound sugar snap peas, snapped, strings removed, blanched and cut on
  the bias
3 small purple potatoes, cooked, peeled and diced
12 fingerling potatoes, cooked and cut on the bias
Salt and pepper to taste

For the garnish:

Chives, finely chopped

RELATED ARTICLE: Cinnamon-Cured Wild Rabbit with Orange Dust (Serves 4)

CONANT

Gewurtztraminer

Alois Lageder

Aho Adige, Italy 2002

directions

For the orange dust: Place orange zest on a sheet pan and air-dry for 24 hours. Preheat oven to 175 degrees. Bake orange zest until completely dry. Remove from oven and cool to room temperature. Break zest into pieces and transfer to a spice grinder. Add sugar and pulverize to a powder. Set aside.

For the port reduction: In a saucepan, heat oil. Add onions and garlic; saute until onions are translucent. Deglaze with port and balsamic; add bay leaves. Simmer, reducing liquid to approximately three-fourths of a cup. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve and season with salt to taste. Set aside to cool to room temperature.

For the sweetbreads: Soak sweetbreads in water for two hours in refrigerator. Remove outer membrane and cut out discolored parts. In a saucepan, heat oil. Add sweetbreads; sauteeing for three minutes. Add onions and garlic; saute until onions are translucent. Add tomato paste and melon seeds; cook for two minutes. Add peanut butter and stock; bring to a boil; season with salt to taste; and simmer for 30 minutes. Remove from heat and remove sweetbreads, setting aside. Transfer sauce to a food processor fitted with the metal blade; puree until smooth, slowly adding butter and cream. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve and season with salt to taste. Add sweetbreads back into sauce and set aside, keeping warm.

For the wild rabbit: Remove legs and neck; reserving for another use. Cut across the backbone separating ribs from the loins; french the ribs. Remove loins and trim. Combine water, salt, maple sugar, cumin, coriander, chili and cinnamon; stir until salt and sugar are dissolved. Add frenched ribs and loins, marinating in refrigerator for one hour.

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For the endive: Preheat oven to 300 degrees. Combine all ingredients in a baking dish: season with salt and pepper to taste. Cover and bake for 30 minutes. Remove from oven and set aside, keeping warm.

For the pea flan: Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Oil 12 1 1/2-ounce timbales (or four 4-ounce ramekins). Cut rice paper into rectangles to fit timbales (or ramekins) and line, using egg wash to "glue" ends. Bake in oven for three minutes, remove and set aside to cool. In a saucepan, melt butter. Add shallots and saute until translucent. Add garlic; saute for one minute. Add a 1/2 cup of the cream; bring to a simmer and reduce by two-thirds. Add peas and stir. Transfer pea mixture to a blender and puree until smooth. Transfer puree to a bowl and stir in remaining cream, eggs and truffle oil. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Pour into timbales and bake in a hot water bath for approximately 20 minutes or until center is set. Remove from over and set aside, keeping warm.

To finish the wild rabbit: Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Remove rabbit from marinade and pat dry. Season with salt and pepper to taste. On a flat surface, lay out four slices of bacon overlapping and tightly roll two loins in bacon. In a cast-iron skillet over medium heat, add loins, cooking on all sides until bacon is crisp. Remove from skillet and set aside. Add ribs to skillet, searing in bacon fat until browned. Return loins to skillet and roast in oven to desired doneness. Remove from oven and let rest for five minutes. Cut ribs in half and cut loins into 1/2-inch slices.

To serve: Arrange slices of loin on a plate with endive and spoon sweetbreads and sauce around loin. Place rib pieces on plate and ladle on port reduction. Arrange pea flan on plate and garnish with orange dust.

ingredients

For the orange dust:

Zest of 4 oranges, thick strips
1/4 cup granulated sugar

For the port reduction:

1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1/2 onion, peeled and roughly chopped
4 cloves garlic, peeled and roughly chopped
2 1/2 cups ruby port
3/4 cup balsamic vinegar
2 small bay leaves
Salt to taste

For the sweetbreads:

8 ounces veal sweetbreads
1 quart water, chilled
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 small onion, peeled and roughly chopped
1 clove garlic, peeled and roughly chopped
2 teaspoons tomato paste
1/2 cup melon seeds, ground*
1 tablespoon peanut butter
1 1/2 cups chicken stock
1 tablespoon butter
1/2 cup heavy cream
Salt to taste

For the wild rabbit:

2 quarts water
1/2 cup salt
1 cup maple sugar
1 tablespoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1 teaspoon red chili powder
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
2 wild rabbits
8 bacon slices
Salt and pepper to taste

For the endive:

4 endive
1/2 cup olive oil
4 ounces butter, cubed
1 clove garlic, peeled and crushed
2 tablespoons chicken stock
Salt and pepper to taste

For the pea flan:

2 sheets brown rice paper, softened in hot water**
Egg wash as needed
1 tablespoon butter
1 shallot, peeled and finely chopped
1 clove garlic, peeled and finely chopped
3/4 cup heavy cream
1 cup English peas, blanched
2 medium eggs, beaten
1/2 teaspoon truffle oil
Salt and pepper to taste

* Available through Global Food Company at [phone] or www.globalfoodcompany.com and African markets.

** Available in Asian markets.

RELATED ARTICLE: Lobster with Truffled Tapioca and Lobster-Egg Dust (Serves 4)

MOROU

Chenin Blanc

Rudera

Stellenbosch, New Zealand 2002

directions

For the tapioca: In a bowl, combine tapioca and milk; soak for one hour. Drain and rinse in cold water; set aside. In a saute pan, heat oil; saute onions until translucent. Add tapioca and garlic; cook for one minute. Deglaze with white wine and reduce to almost dry. Add 1 1/2 cups lobster stock; scrape bottom of pan with a wooden spoon and cook until tapioca is tender. Remove from heat and set aside.

For the lobster-egg dust: In a pot, bring water and salt to a boil. Add roe; cook for two minutes. Drain roe and chill in refrigerator. Spread roe onto a sheet pan and place in oven with just the pilot light on; "bake" until dry. Transfer to a spice grinder and pulverize to a coarse powder; remove half and set aside. Continue to pulverize remaining half to a fine powder. Set each aside separately.

For the fennel confit: Preheat oven to 300 degrees. Combine all ingredients in a saucepan and bake until tender. Set aside, keeping warm.

For the vanilla syrup: In a pot over low heat, combine water and sugar, stirring until sugar is dissolved. Add vanilla and bring to a simmer; cook for five minutes. Remove from heat; cover and cool for 30 minutes. Remove vanilla pod from syrup and set aside for the lobster.

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For the lobster: Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add lobsters and cook for eight minutes. Remove from water and shock in an ice water bath. Remove meat from shells, reserving tail shells for serving. Brush lobster meat with vanilla syrup and season with salt and pepper. In a saute pan over medium-high heat, add oil. Add lobster meat and saute for one minute. Add butter and parsley; cook for another minute. Remove from heat and set aside, keeping warm.

To finish: For the tapioca, in a saute pan over low heat add tapioca, remaining lobster stock and corn; cook for one minute. Add cream, butter, parsley and season with truffle oil, salt and white pepper to taste.

To serve: Arrange fennel confit, yucca chip and antennae with lobster claw on plate. Fill lobster shells with tapioca, top with a lobster tail and arrange on plate, using a dab of tapioca to hold. Spoon remaining vanilla syrup on plate and garnish with chives and coarse and fine lobster-egg dusts.

ingredients

For the tapioca:

1 cup tapioca
1 1/2 cups milk
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 small shallot, peeled and finely chopped
1 small clove garlic, peeled and finely chopped
1/4 cup white wine
1 pint lobster stock, warm
2 tablespoons corn kernels
1 tablespoon heavy cream
1 teaspoon butter
1 teaspoon stemmed and finely chopped parsley
Truffle oil to taste
Salt and white pepper to taste

For the lobster-egg dust:

1 pint water
Salt to taste
1/2 cup lobster roe*

For the fennel confit:

2 baby fennel, trimmed and halved
1 cup olive oil
4 ounces butter
2 cloves garlic, crushed
2 sprigs thyme
1/4 cup clam juice
Salt and pepper to taste

For the vanilla syrup:

1/2 cup water
1/2 cup granulated sugar
1/2 vanilla bean, split and scraped

For the lobster:

4 1 1/2-pound lobsters
1 teaspoon vegetable oil
2 tablespoons butter
1 teaspoon stemmed and finely chopped parsley
Salt and pepper to taste

For the garnish:

Yucca chips
Lobster antennae
Chives, finely chopped

* Available through Browne Trading Company at [phone].

RELATED ARTICLE: Pork Rind-Dusted Lamb Chops and Plantain Croquette (Serves 4)

MOROU

Bourriquot

Havens Wine Cellars

Napa Valley, CA 1999

directions

For the pork rind dust: In a saute pan over medium heat, combine cumin, coriander, cayenne, cinnamon and cardamom; toast until starting to smoke, about five minutes, stirring often. Remove from heat and transfer to a medium bowl. Add tandoori powder, garlic, turmeric, ginger, water, salt and maple sugar; stir well. Add pork skin and marinate in refrigerator for three hours. Preheat oven to 300 degrees. Remove skin from marinade and pat dry. Brush skin with oil; place in a roasting pan and bake for approximately three hours, or until fat is rendered. Remove from oven and pat dry. Place on a rack to air dry for approximately three days. Break skin into small pieces and place in spice grinder; pulverize to a powder, adding paprika as needed to achieve proper consistency. Set aside for the lamb and serving.

For the mint candy sauce: In a blender, combine all ingredients; puree until smooth. Set aside.

For the escargots: In a saucepan over medium heat, add oil. Add chili; saute until skin is blistered. Add onions; saute until translucent. Add garlic, tomato paste and tomatoes; cook until almost dry. Add stock, palmnut pulp, bay leaf and escargots. Season with salt and pepper to taste; bring to a boil. Reduce to a simmer and cook for 30 minutes or until escargots are tender. Set aside, keeping warm.

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For the plantain croquettes: Preheat deep-fryer to 365 degrees. In a saute pan, heat olive oil. Add plantains and saute until golden brown and soft. Transfer to a food processor fitted with the metal blade and puree to a paste. In a bowl, combine plantain puree, plantain flour, one egg yolk and salt to taste; mixing until incorporated. Form into croquettes, shaped as desired. Whisk together remaining egg yolk and buttermilk. Dredge croquettes in flour and coat with buttermilk-egg wash and breadcrumbs. Deep-fry until golden brown. Drain on paper towels and season with salt to taste.

For the lamb: Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Combine cinnamon and paprika. Season lamb rack with salt and pepper to taste and coat with cinnamon-paprika mixture. In a heavy skillet over medium heat, add oil. Add lamb rack; searing one side for three minutes. Turn over and place in oven; cook to desired doneness. Remove from oven and let rest for five minutes. Coat with pork rind dust and cut into four chops.

To serve: Spoon escargots onto plate. Create a line of pork rind dust and place lamb chop on top. Place plantain croquette on plate; serve with mint candy sauce and sauce from escargots.

ingredients

For the pork rind dust:

1 teaspoon ground cumin
1/2 teaspoon ground coriander
1/4 teaspoon cayenne
1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
Pinch of ground cardamom
2 teaspoons tandoori powder*
1/4 teaspoon garlic powder
1/4 teaspoon turmeric
2 teaspoons peeled and finely chopped gingerroot
1 quart water
2 tablespoons salt
1/4 cup maple sugar
4 ounces pork skin
Vegetable oil for brushing
Paprika as needed

For the mint candy sauce:

1/2 cup packed spinach leaves, blanched
1/4 cup mint leaves, blanched
1/4 cup vegetable oil
2 tablespoons crushed green starlight mints

For the escargots:

2 teaspoons vegetable oil
1/2 New Mexico chili**
1/4 small onion, peeled and finely chopped
1 small clove garlic, peeled and finely chopped
1 teaspoon tomato paste
1/2 small tomato, roughly chopped
1 cup veal stock
1/4 cup palmnut pulp***
1 small bay leaf
4 sun-dried African escargots on sticks***
Salt and pepper to taste

For the plantain croquettes:

1 tablespoon olive oil
1 ripe plantain (yellow in color), peeled and sliced
2 tablespoons plantain flour***
2 egg yolks
1/2 cup buttermilk
All-purpose flour as needed
Breadcrumbs as needed
Salt to taste

For the lamb:

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon paprika
1 rack of lamb, frenched
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
Salt and pepper to taste

* Available in Indian markets.

** Also known as Colorado chilis; a long, earthy-flavored chili with mild heat. Available through New Mexico Chili at www.nmchili.com.

*** Available through Nina International at [phone].

RELATED ARTICLE: Black-Eyed Pea Fritters with Honey-Cardamom Dust (Makes 20 fritters)

MOROU

Chateau Musar Blanc

Chateau Musar

Ghazir Lebanon 1997

directions

For the black-eyed pea fritters: Keeping peas in soaking water, use fingers to rub off and rinse away skins. Drain and transfer to a food processor fitted with the metal blade; puree into a thick paste. Add enough water to form a smooth, but thick batter. Transfer pea puree to a bowl and combine remaining ingredients. Cover and refrigerate for three days.

For the honey-cardamom dust: Preheat oven to 300 degrees. In a bowl, combine honey and glucose, mixing well. Pour onto a Silpat-lined sheet pan. Bake in oven for approximately one hour. Remove from oven and set aside for one hour. Break into small pieces and place in a spice grinder; add cardamom and pulverize to a powder. Set aside in a dry place.

For the yogurt harissa: In a saute pan, heat oil. Add chilis, coriander, cumin and caraway; saute for one minute. Add onions and garlic; saute for five minutes. Add tandoori paste and stock; bring to a boil. Reduce heat, simmering for approximately 20 minutes. Transfer mixture to a blender and puree until smooth. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve. Chill in refrigerator. Add yogurt to puree; season with salt to taste, mixing well. Set aside at room temperature.

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To finish: Preheat deep-fryer to 365 degrees. Using a wooden spoon, beat the black-eyed pea batter for five minutes. Deep-fry small scoops of batter until golden brown, turning frequently while frying. Drain on paper towels.

To serve: Dust plate with honey-cardamom dust and arrange fritters on top. Puncture tops of fritters with end of spoon and spoon a dab of yogurt harissa into fritters.

ingredients

For the black-eyed pea fritters:

1 1/2 cups dried black-eyed peas, soaked overnight
1 small onion, peeled and finely chopped
1 green onion, finely chopped
1/2 teaspoon stemmed and finely chopped cilantro
1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes
1/4 teaspoon peeled and finely chopped gingerroot
Cayenne pepper to taste
Salt to taste

For the honey-cardamom dust:

1/4 cup honey
1/2 cup glucose
1/2 teaspoon cardamom seeds, toasted

For the yogurt harissa:

1 tablespoon olive oil
1 1/2 New Mexico chilis*
1/2 teaspoon coriander seeds
1/2 teaspoon cumin seeds
1/2 teaspoon caraway seeds
1/2 medium onion, peeled and roughly chopped
2 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed
2 teaspoons tandoori paste
1 cup chicken stock
3/4 cup plain yogurt
Salt to taste

* Also known as Colorado chilis; a long, earthy flavored chili with mild heat. Available through New Mexico Chili at www.nmchili.com.

RELATED ARTICLE: Wild Salmon with Fried Yucca Couscous and Salmon Jerky Dust (Serves 4)

MOROU

Pinot Noir, Marjorie Vineyard

Cristom Vineyards

Willamette Valley, OR 2000

directions

For the pickled celery: In a pot, bring water, vinegar and garlic to a boil. Combine remaining ingredients, stir well, and pour over celery. Cover and refrigerate for two days. Drain celery and set aside.

For the salmon jerky dust: Preheat oven to 250 degrees. Combine sake, mirin, water and salt; stirring well. Soak salmon skins in sake mixture for 30 minutes. Remove skin, pat dry and place on a sheet pan. Dry in oven for 30 minutes. Remove from oven and air-dry for 24 hours. Cut two sides of skin in half and set aside for garnish. Break remaining skin into pieces and transfer to a spice grinder; pulverize to a coarse powder. Set aside.

For the tomato sauce: In a pot, combine tomato and three quarters of onion. Cover with water and bring to a boil. Simmer for five minutes or until onion is soft. Drain tomato and onions; transfer to a blender, pureeing until smooth. Set aside. Finely chop remaining onion. In a saute pan, heat olive oil. Add onions; saute until golden brown. Add tomato puree and cook for three minutes, stirring occasionally. Add shrimp powder and paprika, stirring well; cook for five minutes. Season with salt to taste. Set aside, keeping warm.

For the yucca couscous: Preheat deep-fryer to 365 degrees. Prepare a double-boiler with water and bring to a simmer. Add couscous and steam for 10 minutes or until fluffy. Remove from steam and cool. Deep-fry couscous until crispy. Drain on paper towels and cool. Combine couscous, green onions, peppers, peanuts and parsley, stirring gently. Add olive oil and season with salt and pepper to taste. Mix well and set aside.

For the salmon: Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Season salmon with salt and pepper to taste. In a saute pan over medium-high heat, add oil. Add salmon; sear flesh side for two minutes. Transfer to oven and roast to desired doneness. Remove from oven and set aside.

To serve: Spoon yucca couscous on center of plate. Place salmon on top of couscous, garnishing with pickled celery. Arrange salmon skin and mizuna; sprinkle with salmon jerky dust.

ingredients

For the pickled celery:

1 pint water
2 tablespoons cider vinegar
2 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed
1/2 small onion, peeled and roughly chopped
1/4 cup granulated sugar
4 sprigs thyme
1/4 teaspoon coriander seeds
1/4 teaspoon turmeric
1/4 teaspoon cumin seeds
1/4 teaspoon celery seeds
1 teaspoon curry powder
2 ribs celery, thinly sliced lengthwise
Salt and pepper to taste

For the salmon jerky dust:

1/4 cup sake
1/3 cup mirin
2 cups water
3 tablespoons salt
3 sides salmon skin

For the tomato sauce:

1 medium tomato
1 medium onion, peeled and quartered
Water as needed
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 teaspoon dried shrimp powder*
2 teaspoons Nigerian paprika*
Salt to taste

For the yucca couscous:

3 cups water
1 1/2 cups yucca couscous**
4 green onions, thinly sliced
1 red bell pepper, roasted, peeled, seeded and roughly chopped
1 cup peanuts, toasted
1 teaspoon stemmed and finely chopped parsley
1 tablespoon olive oil
Salt and pepper to taste

For the salmon:

4 4-ounce wild salmon fillets
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
Salt and pepper to taste

For the garnish:

Mizuna

* Available in African markets.

** Found in the frozen foods section of African markets.

RELATED ARTICLE: Roasted Quail with Proscuitto Sauce and Beef Jerky Dust (Serves 4)

MOROU

Barbera d'Alba, Bricco 4 Fratelli

Boroli

Piedmont, Italy 2000

directions

For the quail stuffing: In a small pot, melt half of the butter. Add flour, stirring to create a roux. Slowly add stock, whisking constantly to make a gravy. Set aside. In a saute pan, melt remaining butter. Add onions, celery and carrots; saute until onions are translucent. Transfer onion mixture to a large bowl; add bread and herbs. In a small bowl, add cider and egg; whisk until combined. Add cider-egg mixture to bread mixture, tossing to coat. Transfer to a pot and add gravy; cook over medium heat for two minutes, stirring well. Set aside in refrigerator for the quail.

For the quail: Combine water, salt, maple sugar and spices, stirring until salt and sugar are dissolved. Add quail; marinate in refrigerator for 1 1/2 hours.

For the beef jerky dust: Preheat oven to 300 degrees. Place beef jerky on a sheet pan and bake for 45 minutes. Remove from oven and let cool. Transfer to a spice grinder, add coriander and pulverize to a coarse powder. Set aside for the quail eggs.

For the proscuitto sauce: In a saucepan over medium heat, add oil. Add proscuitto and onions; saute until onions are caramelized. Add carrots, celery, thyme and peppercorns; saute for five minutes. Deglaze with port and reduce to almost dry. Add roasted garlic and stock; simmer for 30 minutes. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve and return to heat; bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer; reduce to a sauce consistency, stirring occasionally. Set aside, keeping warm.

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For the root vegetable brulee: In a pot, bring cream to a boil. Remove from heat, add cornstarch while whisking constantly. Whisk in eggs one at a time. Add parmesan, stirring until cheese is melted. Season with sugar, salt and white pepper to taste. Fold carrots, celery root, butternut squash and cherries into parmesan sauce. Set aside.

To finish: Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Remove quail from marinade and pat dry. Remove legs and wings, discarding wing tips. French legs and wings and season with salt and pepper to taste. Set aside. Stuff quail cavities with stuffing and season with salt and pepper to taste. In a cast-iron skillet, heat oil over medium heat. Sear legs and wings until browned; remove from pan, setting aside. Sear quails, breast-side down, for three minutes. Turn quails over and roast in oven to desired doneness, adding wings and legs for final five minutes. Remove tops of quail egg shells and fill with beef jerky dust. For the root vegetable brulee, preheat salamander. Spoon vegetables and sauce onto serving plates. Place under a salamander until surface is lightly browned. Break quail egg on top of brulee and return to salamander for one minute or until egg is barely cooked.

To serve: Lay stuffed quail beside vegetable brulee. Arrange legs and wings to the side and ladle sauce over top. Place three quail eggs in holders and arrange on plate.

ingredients

For the quail stuffing:

2 tablespoons butter
1 teaspoon all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons brown chicken stock
1 small onion, peeled and finely chopped
1/2 rib celery, finely chopped
1 small carrot, peeled and finely chopped
2 cups day-old walnut raisin bread, cut into 1/4-inch cubes
1/2 teaspoon stemmed and finely chopped sage
1/2 teaspoon stemmed and finely chopped thyme
2 tablespoons apple cider
1 small egg
Salt and pepper to taste

For the quail:

2 quarts water
1/2 cup salt
1 cup maple sugar
1 tablespoon ground anise seeds
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon crushed juniper berries
4 quail
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
12 quail eggs, boiled for 30 seconds
Salt and pepper to taste

For the beef jerky dust:

1/2 cup roughly chopped barbecued beef jerky
1/2 teaspoon coriander

For the proscuitto jus:

2 teaspoons vegetable oil
1/4 cup roughly chopped proscuitto
1/2 small onion, peeled and roughly chopped
1/2 small carrot, peeled and roughly chopped
1/2 small rib celery, roughly chopped
1 sprig thyme
1/4 teaspoon black peppercorns
1/2 cup ruby port
1 small clove garlic, roasted
1 pint veal stock
Salt to taste

For the root vegetable brulee:

1 cup heavy cream
1 tablespoon cornstarch
2 eggs
1/2 cup grated parmesan cheese
1 medium carrot, peeled, diced and roasted
1/2 small celery root, peeled, diced and roasted
1/2 small butternut squash, peeled, diced and roasted
3 tablespoons dried cherries
4 quail eggs
Salt, white pepper and sugar to taste

RELATED ARTICLE: Grilled Bison and Kobe Beef Kitfo with Gold-Dusted Foie Gras (Serves 4)

MOROU

Syrah, Melville Vineyard

Jaffurs

Santa Barbara County, CA 2001

directions

For the foie gras: Place foie gras in a bowl. Add Sauternes and Madeira; rub salt and white pepper into foie gras. Cover with plastic; marinate in refrigerator for six to eight hours. Preheat oven to 250 degrees. Line a 10 X 3 1/2 X 3 1/2-inch terrine mold with plastic wrap, allowing plastic wrap to drape over the edge by two inches. Drain foie gras of marinade and place in terrine. Firmly press foie gras into terrine. Cover top of terrine with overhanging plastic wrap. Place terrine in a hot water bath (water coming half way up terrine) and bake for approximately 30 minutes. Remove from oven and let sit in water bath for one hour. Remove terrine from water bath; peel back plastic wrap and allow excess fat to drain off (reserving fat for another use, if desired). Re-cover terrine with plastic and cover with a weight evenly distributed across terrine. Refrigerate for 24 hours to set.

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For the gold dust: Preheat oven to 300 degrees. In a bowl, combine glucose and food coloring, mixing well. Pour onto a sheet pan; bake for two hours. Remove from oven and let cool for one hour. Break into pieces and place in a spice grinder; add gold sheets and pulverize into a powder. Set aside.

For the berbere sauce: In a blender, combine all ingredients and puree for two to three minutes to form a smooth paste. Set aside for the kitfo and garnish.

For the kitfo: Prepare a hot grill. Preheat oven to 300 degrees. Combine spices and rub onto short ribs. Grill ribs on each side for approximately four minutes. In a roasting pan, arrange ribs in a single layer. Add wine, stock, bay leaves, garlic and a 1/2 cup of the berbere sauce; stir to mix. Braise in oven for approximately three hours or until meat is tender. Remove ribs from pan and let cool. Remove meat from bones, finely dice and set aside. In a saute pan, heat canola oil. Add short rib meat, onions, lemon zest and two teaspoons of the berbere sauce; saute for one minute. Remove from heat and stir in beef and parsley. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Fill four 1 1/2-inch ring molds with kitfo and set aside in refrigerator.

For the teff cakes: Prepare a hot griddle. In a bowl, sift teff flour, all-purpose flour, baking soda and salt together. Add corn, onions, cilantro, jalapenos and pepper to taste; stirring to coat. In a separate bowl, combine buttermilk, egg and half of the butter, whisking until combined. Stir buttermilk mixture into flour mixture, stirring until smooth. Pour 12 one tablespoon portions of batter onto griddle, cooking on both sides until golden brown and cooked through. Set aside to cool.

To finish: For the foie gras, scoop out 12 balls, about 3/4-inch in diameter, and roll in gold dust. Cut teff cakes into squares; brush with remaining butter and stack into three's.

To serve: Un-mold kitfo onto plate and garnish with caperberry and lemon zest. Spoon berbere sauce onto plate, creating a streak. Place stacked teff cakes on sauce and garnish with mizuna. Arrange shaved Kobe beef on plate and top with three gold-dusted foie gras balls.

ingredients

For the foie gras:

1 lobe Grade A foie gras, deveined
2 tablespoons Sauternes
2 tablespoons Madeira
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon white pepper

For the gold dust:

1/4 cup glucose
1 drop golden-yellow food coloring
2 sheets edible gold leaf

For the berbere sauce:

2 teaspoons cumin seeds, toasted
4 whole cloves, toasted
1/2 teaspoon cardamom seeds, toasted
1/4 teaspoon allspice berries, toasted
1/2 teaspoon fenugreek seeds, toasted
1 dried chili, seeded and toasted
1/2 cup dehydrated onions
2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon ground ginger
1/2 teaspoon garlic powder
1 teaspoon turmeric
1/2 cup canola oil
1/2 cup red wine

For the kitfo:

2 teaspoons garlic powder
2 teaspoons paprika
2 teaspoons ground cumin
2 teaspoons ground coriander
2 teaspoons black pepper
2 teaspoons brown sugar
1 pound bison short ribs
1/2 bottle red wine
1 pint veal stock
2 bay leaves
5 cloves garlic
1 tablespoon canola oil
1/2 small onion, grilled and finely chopped
Zest of 1/2 a lemon
8 ounces Kobe beef sirloin, finely diced
2 teaspoons stemmed and finely chopped parsley
Salt and pepper to taste

For the teff cakes:

1/4 cup teff flour
1/4 cup all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup corn kernels
1/4 small onion, peeled and finely chopped
2 teaspoons stemmed and finely chopped cilantro
1/2 jalapeno, seeded and finely chopped
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
1/2 cup buttermilk
1 egg
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened

For the garnish:

Caperberries
Lemon zest, julienned
Micro mizuna*
Kobe beef shavings

* Available through The Chef's Garden at [phone].