Dumplings. (Back to Basics).

The ubiquitous dumpling seems to be indigenous to nearly every culture, but just where this little bundle of joy came from is still a wonder. Whoever deserves credit for making the first dumpling is lost somewhere in the pages of gastronomic history. However, for food-obsessed editors at Art Culinaire, a life without dumplings is simply not worth living.

Dumplings originated not long after the creation of dough for bread or pasta. The actual definition of the dumpling is very broad and loose, which is no surprise since it appears in different forms everywhere. It's easier to distinguish the different types by example and even better by taste. There are basically two types of dumplings. Dropped dumplings are usually made using a protein or farinaceous mixture that is fortified and lightened. They can be shaped individually or "dropped" into a liquid to poach. The second type is a filling covered by some type of dough which is also simmered in a hot liquid. Most dumplings can be fried, steamed, or baked, but poaching is the most popular cooking method.

The Dumpling Cookbook by dumpling queen Maria Polushkin includes a wide selection of dumplings found worldwide. Her interpretation is bold enough to consider meatballs and fritters as dumplings. Whether it's kreplach, ravioli, or wonton, dumplings everywhere in the world have one thing in common apart from being recognized as comfort food, they are inexpensive fillers that provide a wonderful vehicle during lean times to stretch costly products, especially meat. In short, dumplings are endless in variety and infinite in goodness.

... More than just Dim Sum:

In China alone, noodle and wheat dough came into existence centuries ago. Although different versions have evolved, common wheat dough is still used to make classic Chinese dumplings today. The first thing that comes to mind at the mention of Chinese dumplings is jiao-zhi. The traditional version contains a flavorful mixture of ground, fatty pork and minced vegetables encased in a simple flour dough. The most popular way to enjoy these treats today is boiled or steamed and dipped in a variety of sauces. But they can also be fried in a hot pan with some oil. After the bottoms of the dumplings start to darken, water is added and they are covered tightly and steamed. The result is guo-tie-literally, "pot stickers." This cooking process results in dumplings with steamed top skins, crispy fried bottoms, and savory fillings, creating a wonderful taste and texture.

Another specialty is shao Ion bao. A cube of firm, "" broth and seasoned meat comprises the stuffing that is completely wrapped and sealed in dough. When steamed, the heat dissolves the gelatin, and when eaten, the flavorful liquid explodes in the mouth. The peril of this packaged delight is that the hot broth can burn the mouth. Often called "juicy buns," they are increasingly included on Chinese menus.

... ( Wrap it up!

There are so many types of dumpling dough and wrappers and the fillings are endless, from shark's fin to sticky rice. Lesser known in the Western Hemisphere are the popular sticky rice dumplings of Asia and Southeast Asia. Sweet or savory short grained glutinous riche is enhanced with a flavored filling and often wrapped in a banana or bamboo leaf. The packages are tied with string and steamed.

Dumplings have also found their way into the borders of Japan and Korea. The Korean mandoo is based on the same principle of the Chinese dumpling, but has been adapted, using local ingredients for the filling Spicy, hot kimchi, combined with anything from noodles to mushrooms or a mixture of pork, are all possibilities. The Japanese also have their signature gyoza, which is a Japonified version of the dumpling similar to the Chinese "pot sticker."

China boats the ever popular spring roll, a thin wrapper encasing meat and deep-fried to a crisp. Lumpia appear in Southeast Asia; these popular triangles made of the same thin wrappers as Chinese spring rolls are filled with piquant potatoes and curry or meat. In India, people love their samosa, crispy bundles filled with screaming hot, spicy potato Sound familiar?

A variety of filled rolls are popular in other countries as well. The Thais specialize in banana or pandan leaf-wrapped meats and fish. Imparting a deep, almost nutty flavor to the filling, the pandan, a local aromatic plant, is usually knotted around chicken or fish paste and then deep-fried. In Vietnam, steamed and fried wrappers are common, as seen in bahn bot loc; steamed shrimp and pork dumplings. The wrapper in this case is made primarily from tapioca starch, which imparts a translucent sheen to the roll.

...( Extra duck sauce, please.

Hands down the most popular dumpling from the East is the wonton. These 'swallowed clouds' are mostly pork-based fillings encased in thin, silky, soft wrappers. (Unfortunately, the classic wonton has been completely bastardized by the monstrosity Chinese take-out version that has warped the American palate's perception of Chinese food.) Also popular is the beloved dim sum assortment, which refers to a light meal of small dishes-mostly dumplings-enjoyed with tea.

Chef Patrice Caillot shows us some unconventional sweet twists using wonton wrappers both steamed and fried. Chef Stanley Wong demonstrates the various styles found in Asia. A typical sweet dumpling includes a typical "midnight snack" consumed during mahjong parties, and is also associated with playing cards into the wee morning hours. Often, the treat is filled with sweetened sesame or beans and wrapped in a glutinous, almost translucent, rice dough. The dumplings, when poached, become almost "gooey" in texture.

No matter where they come from or what they are filled with, it is the magical dough of the dumpling that captivates us all. Translucent Asian wrappers are often made with starch, typically mung bean, tapioca, and/or rice flour in different combinations. The addition of boiling or very bot water is the trick in developing the gluten to create the chewy consistency in the dough, it is well worth making the dough by hand versus purchasing prepared sheets.

One exception occurs when preparing wonton, which requires a thinner dough. These commercial wrappers are referred to as "skins" because of their thinness and ability to cover and seal various fillings like a protective layer Creat chefs everywhere appreciate the multi-functional wonton wrapper. At the Louis XV in Monte Carlo, Alain Ducasse has his chef's packaging fore gras and truffles in wonton skins.

... ( I say potato, you say potahto ...

The Western part of the world has entirely different renditions of the dumpling. This is true particularly for the Europeans, where wheat and potato flour are the basic ingredients of potato or bread/flour-based dumplings to accompany either the rich sauces of meaty fare or a simple light broth. Almost always poached, these dumplings come in various shapes and sizes. In some cases, the dumplings comprise the main meal. But often, including a plateful of dumplings stretches a meaty stew; as a result, there is frequently additional sauce remaining for another flavorful meal. (Who doesn't love a plate of spatzle with leftover sauce?)

The Eastern European cultures have many bread-based dumplings that are often heartier and more filling than the dumplings served in Western Europe. With farming as the mainstay of the economy, a carbobydrate-rich diet is necessary sustenance for this labor-intensive work. Thick, heavy, dougy dumplings were probably more common before the other cheap filler, the potato, was brought to Europe. Eastern Europe also suffers very harsh winters, Requiring very little meat or vegetables, dumplings are an invaluable source of nutrition in the heart of winter when these ingredients are scarce.

Whereas pierogi are probably Poland's greatest culinary contribution to mankind, there are many similarly named varieties futher east. Variations of these popular half moons, also called pirozhki, are found throughout other regions including the Ukraine and Russia. While the dough is similar in texture to that of Chinese wheat dumplings, it is the filling and condiments that make these dumplings as different as night and day.

... ( Knock, knock - Who's there?

In Western Europe, particularly in Austria and Germany, dumplings tend to be more sophisticated and refined. These Germanic regions are where the dumpling is king Knodel and knockerl are both, bread-based and substantial enough to stand on their own. Often accompanied by a soup or broth, these types of dumplings can be made with a base of anything from potatoes, semolina, farma, or even suet or meat.

Sweet renditions of bread-like dumplings, filled with fruit and poached in syrup, are also common in these parts. These sweet dumplings, are treats and generate much nostalgia. They are poached in syrup and served alone or with cream. Popular fillings include stone fruits, like peaches and plums. Often these fruits are preserved after the harvest, providing a constant supply of compote year round. However, not all dumplings that hail from Western Europe are sweet.

Chef Kurt Gutenbrunner of Wallse prepares a variety of dumplings familiar to the Germanic diaspora. Gutenbrunner provides some interesting combinations and classic techniques of dumpling making in Europe. Servietten knodel are cubes of white bread compressed within a towel or a muslin cloth and poached in the same classical way as the French classic foie gras en torchon. Also seen is an interesting combination using raw and cooked potatoes to create an unusual texture in Waldviertler. For a sweet ending, a classic sweet fruit-filled dumpling and the famed poppyseed variety are enticing examples of dessert dumplings.

Although they bear different names, dumplings in many nations are very similar. The gefilte fish of jewish tradition is simply a quenelle of fish en gelee that is common in classical French cooking. The Scandinavian nations serve light, aiy dumplings, similar to matzoh balls, in clear broth.

... ( Overstuffed!

The Italians are probably most famed for stuffed pastas, ravioli being the most well known, Fillings vary from cheese and vegetables to meat or mushrooms sealed between sheets of thin pasta and served with a myriad of sauces. These pillows of pasta can be further twisted and folded into different shapes and each variation bears its own names parisotti, tortellini, capelletti, and agnolotti are all popular stuffed pastas.

Another type of Italian dumpling griocchi, is traditionally made with potatoes and/or ricotta cheese. According to most Italian chefs, the potatoes must be boiled in their skins, then peeled and passed through a food mill while they are hot. If not, they can lose the precisou sarch that holds the gnocehi together Gnocchi are some of the most interestingly shaped dropped dumplings available. They can be shapped into quenelles, big and small, and sometimes bear the traditional fork marking to help hold them shape and sauces.

Passatelli is another of the many Italian dumplings that are dough based and poached. Consisting of breadcrumbs and Parmesan cheese, it is more similar to the Germanic spatzle. It's often referred to as the Italian version of chicken and dumplings. Again, while the product is quite similar throughout Italy, the names change with each new village and region.

Because so many of the immigrants to the New World have European roots, it is no surprise that the European styled dumpling has been adopted in this country. The more popular American version of the dumpling is a type of biscuit, which consists of heavy dough dropped into simmering savory stews and casseroles. The most popular rendition is probably chicken and dumplings.

... ( Just a spoonful of sugar...

Dumplings and stew in America are more commonly found along the southern Bible belt and in Appalachia. Like its Austman counterparts, the "American dumpling" is also a served as a dessert in sugary renditions with fruits. Apple dumplings are considered classic; the fruit, encased in dough, is poached, and then served with butter and sugar. Another version is a compote of fruit accompanied by dropped, biscuit like dumplings poached in and served with the same fruity mixture.

A uniquely American dumpling is the hushpuppy. This cornmeal batter, fried and served as a side dish, has become an icon in southern fare. The catchy name was coined when cooks quieted begging dogs by throwing them scraps of fried dough while dinner was prepared.

Simple to make and filling to the stomach-dumplings have become the darlings of almost every culture. Viewed with much nostalgia and eaten with delight, dumplings are simple and best shared with good company. As long as we have hearty appetites the delicious dumpling will always find a place on our tables and room in our bellies.

Bibliography

Dumplings:

Hom, Ken. Easy Family Recipes From a Chinese-American Childhood. New York: Alfred A. Knopf, Inc., 1997.

Lin, Florence. Florence Lin's Complete Book of Chinese Noodles, Dumplings and Breads. New York: William and Morrow and Company, Inc., 1986.

Polushkin, Maria. The Dumpling Cookbook. New York: Workman Publishing Co., 1977.

RELATED ARTICLE: DUMPLINGS AROUND THE WORLD:

Agnolotti: Half moon shaped filled pasta from Italy.

Cappeletti: Italian for "little hats." Similar to tortellini.

Cuo Tier: Popular Chinese style of minced pork and vegetable encased in a chewy dough. Boiled, steamed or fried. Sometimes called "pot stickers."

Cyoza: Japanese version of the Chinese dumplings with a thin wonton skin. In Czechoslovakia, they are called knedliki.

Har gow: Chinese "dim sum" filled with shrimp and covered in a translucent dough.

Hushpuppy: American fried cornmeal dumplings.

Kartoffelklosse: German potato dumplings.

Knodel: Traditional Austrian and German dough that is poached. Knodel can be sweetened and poached in syrup.

Kreplach: Jewish meat filled dumplings similar to the wonton.

Lor Mai Cat: Cantonese style lotus leaf wrapped around sticky rice with chicken and vegetables. Steamed so the lotus leaf infuses the rice.

Lumpia: Filipino version consisting of a typically triangular- shaped pocket of spiced potatoes and spring roll skins. Often found in other neighboring Southeast Asian nations.

Malfatti: Italian "misshapen" gnocchi, often made into quenelles.

Mandoo: Korean dumplings similar to Chinese dumplings and usually filled with a spicy meat and kimchi mixture.

Matzoh Rall: Jewish dumplings made of matzoh meal, often served with Grandma's chicken soup.

Oliebollen: Sweet fried Dutch dumplings.

Pansotti: Italian triangular or circular ravioli.

Passatelli: Italian dumplings with bread crumbs and cheese. Similar to Germanic spatzle.

Pelment: Siberian meat filled dumplings.

Pierogt: Of Polish origin with either cheese, onion, cabbage, or potato filling. Boiled or fried, served with sour cream, fried onions, or apple compote. Can also contain sweet fillings such as poppyseeds.

Samosa: Indian and Southeast Asian fried dumplings. Coated with a thick skin and filled with spicy potatoes.

Servietten knodel: Austrian bread dumplings. Compressed bread is tied in a muslin cloth or towel and secured. Poached and sliced.

Shao Lon Bao: Chinese dumplings with a bread-like thin wrapping. Filling is minced meat with a cube of jellied broth. After steaming, the juice bursts in the mouth when eaten.

Spatzle: Of German origin. The "noodle" of Austria and Germany.

Varenikt: Ukranian dumpling that are either sweet with fruit or savory with cheese.

Waldviertler: Austrian potato dumplings made with a combination of raw and cooked potatoes for a different texture.

Wonton: Chinese dumplings filled with meat and usually served in broth. Can be fined. The literal translation is "swallowed clouds."

Zhong Zht: Sticky rice filled with sweet or savory fillings; wrapped in bamboo leaves and tied with string. The dumplings are steamed and sliced.

Lespinasse New York, NY Patrice Caillot

It's been just over a year and Patrice Caillot has adapted nicely to one of New York's finest kitchens Lespinasse. This sky, humble man has plenty to be proud about. Not only has he been showered with impressive accolades and recognition galore but he has also just taken top prize in the Beaver Creek Pastry Competition at Beaver Creek, Colorado. Not only that, be is also on the American team in the upcoming prestigious pastry competition, La Coupe du Monde to be held in Lyons, France.

Cailiot will compete in chocolate sculpting one of three categories in this highly regarded event. When asked about competing in France, ironically for the American team, he states, "I live in America pay American taxes, and my wife is American; after all, it's not a war."

While working in France. Caillot met celebrated chocolate guru, Jacques Torres. Torres invited Caillot to work with him in his former stomping ground, the original Le Cirque. An eye-opening month with Torres at Le Cirque in 1994 gave him a taste of what working in N.Y. is like.

Shortly after when the doors closed for good at the 65th Street location the notorious Maccioni family opened a spin of trattoria called Osteria del Circo. Caillot was beckoned to N.Y. this time faced with the task of opening a highly anticipated restaurant to a crowd with very high expectations. Shortly after, he opened two more restaurants in Las Vegas at the Bellagio Hotel in addition the monumental task of opening and running two very high profile restaurants. Le Cirque 2000 and Circo of Las Vegas, had him working like a machine. When asked how he was able to manage all of those tasks living in a new country learning a new language managing a foreign staff, producing quality food, and meeting the customers high expectations his answer is "Organization and hard work."

As it so often happens in the kitchen, life was overtaken by work. Torres advised Caillot upon his arrival in America. 'It's very simple either you remain strictly French by habit and attitute or you open up your mind and try to work with the Americans" Caillot made his decision he would open mindedly adopt the frenetic work style of American chefs. During those many long hours in the kitchen, he worked alongside his future wife, Regina Today, they no longer work together. While he has remained a pastry chef Regina works as an event organizer with more "normal" hours. This allows him to hold a challenging job and to enjoy a quality home life striking an equilibrium between his career and family.

With incredible humility, he states that the people working with him are the foundation of his accomplishments. He strives to create a harmonious environment and above all understands his obligation to teach and encourage others. He emphasizes that anyone who is willing to learn and work bard does not necessarily need formal training to be successful. In fact one member of his staff was formerly a restaurant hostess and another an accountant who both eventually found themselves in the pastry kitchen. According to Caillot. "It doesn't matter about your background: what is important is that you are willing to learn."

Stanley wong

TanDa

New York, NY

A lying example of "fusion" Stanley Wong is a statuesque mix of Chinese and German. His father a tailor from Shanghai immigrated to Germany where he met and married Wong's mother. The result Stanley Wong.

It was his father's nostalgio home style Shanghai dishes that sparked Wong's interest in food. One dish that stands out from the others is the traditional steamed hairy crabs. Though difficult to get, the seasonal crabs were revered culinary treats in the Wong household along with the traditional family dipping sauce.

Because of his European upbringing, Wong is very focused on his food and craft However after years of working in Germany and Switzerland, a search for the Chinese roots inspired him to seek work in Asia. But finding a position as a chef in Asia proved to be far more challenging than he had imagined it soon became apparent that in order to work as a chef in Asia, one needed Asian experience, a veritable Catch 22

Wong was told of a need for chefs in South Africa Assuming that any international experience would be helpful to the goal of working in Asia, he packed his bags and went to Sun City, South Africa. But it was not only in the kitchen that he faced great challenges. On one occasion social and political unrest forced this chef to put down his pots and knives and instead weld, a riffle in self defense against angry rioters. He finished his contract and left.

The stint in Africa paid off, and the prestigious Mandarin Hotel in Hong Kong gladly offered him employment. Wong called Hong Kong home for five years, where be met the worldly lean Georges Vongerichten lean Georges was developing yet another new restaurant concept which included bringing Wong to New York Politics set the project back and Wong began sending out resumes and even resorted to scanning the classified ads. Serendipitously, TanDa was running the ad for a chef in their Southeast Asian inspired restaurant With a smile, he states, "I got my job (at TanDal through the [New York]) Times"

Wong and his sons chef, Angelo Sosa also a lean Georges disciple trekked throughout Thailand and Vietnam, working and eating their way through Southeast Asia for nearly two months before restaurant's opening. This journey exposed both chefs to the local flavors of the region infusing them palates and senses while keeping their European techniques. This synergy of both worlds is evident in Wong's cuisine.

Gutenbrunner

Kurt Gutenbrunner is the conductor of the culinary score that is making Wallse a "Top Ten" hit. Named after the village in Austria, the destination is known for the incredible "Austrian fare" served mightly, However, Gutenbrunner does not particularly care to be pigeonholded solely for cooking Austrian Guisine instead be believes the totality of the dinning experience is what is most important "Personality in the dinning room, personality in how you do your business, and how you created your food. I have an Austrian passport but it doesn't mean my whole life has to be red, white, and red."

As if owning one restaurant isn't enough the newly opened Cafee Sabarsky is were crowds join the queue for "real coffee" and anticipate a selection of Viennese pasty as well as savory fare Emulating the famed kaffechauses of Vienna, the cafe accommodates the taste buds of Klimit and Kokoschka fans visiting the Neue Galerie, a collection of German and Austrian art and design. The simple menu is broad enough to satisfy the "most have goulash" die hards. Due to the limited space, most of the production for the cafee in done at Wallse and brought uptown.

"I never think that being a chef ends at the kitchen door," Gutenbrunner states with conviction. The belief that he has to be involved in all aspects of the restaurant is nothing new since becoming a chef/owner. To understand the relationship and needs of both the dining room and the kitchen is a concept that Gutenbrunner has always thought every chef should grasp.

While he is prod to be Austrian, he also takes pride in his multi-ethnic international staff. The team, a melange of Japanese, Russian, German, French, Swiss, African, and even American, is like a family who even shares precious weekends together that they can make knodel as well as Gutenbrunner himself in is no surprise that there's more going on in the kitchen than spatzle and speck Seldom will a salad be served without the obligatory drizzle of pumpkinseed oil, a flavortal Austrian staple.

The ever busy Gutenbrunner works with his beautiful wife, Yasmin With the patience of a same, she is responsible for keeping his chaos organized at Wallse and balancing life at home. Somewhere between running uptown and downtown, he plays father to his twin toddler girls, while scheduling visits to see his son in Austria in addition to the recent birth of Cafee Sabarsky, the couple is expecting another daughter in August.

This determined chef states. "It took me a long time to [finally] open my own restaurant if an happy I took my time". Passionate and driven, he has the necessary buzz of energy to keep his busy life balanced while incredibly searching for more to do With many upcoming projects in the works, he has solidly planned his feet on terra firma in New York.

Steamed Peach and Verbena Dumplings

(Serves 6)

PATRICE CAILLOT


ingredients

For the verbena ice cream:

5 1/4 cups milk
3 ounces powdered milk
1/4 bunch verbena, steemed
4 egg yolks
10 ounces granulated

For the peacb dumplings:

1 1/2 pounds peaches, peeled,
 pitted, and diced
5 ounces sugar
1 1/2 teaspoons pectin powder
12 round wonton wrappers

For the verbena infusion:

2 quarts water
14 ounces granulated sugar
1 bunch verbena
Juice of 1 lemon

For the garnish:

Verbena leaves

directions

For the verbena ice cream: In a medium saucepan over medium heat, bring the milk and powdered milk to a boil. Infuse with the verbena for ten minutes and strain through a fine mesh sieve. In a medium bowl, combine the sugar and egg yolks and whisk until smooth. Temper the egg yolks, adding one-third of the hot milk while whisking constantly. Whisk the tempered yolks back into the remaining hot milk and cook over medium heat, stirring constantly until the mixture is thick enough to coat the back of a wooden spoon. Remove from the heat and whisk in the butter. Strain through a fine mesh sieve and set aside in an ice bath until chilled. Freeze in an ice cream machine according to the manufacturer's instructions.

For the peach dumplings: In a saucepan, combine the peaches, sugar, and pectin. Simmer until the peaches are soft, about 20 minutes, stirring occasionally to make a compote. Allow to cool. Fill a wonton wrapper with a small spoonful of compote. Lightly brush the edges of the wrapper with water and pleat the edges to seal, releasing any air bubbles. Repeat to make 12 dumplings, keeping covered with plastic wrap. Reserve the remaining compote.

For the verbena infusion: In a large, covered pot, line a steamer rack insert with parchment paper that has been slashed to make small vents. In the pot, bring the water, sugar, and verbena to a boil. Place the dumplings on the prepared steaming rack and steam the dumplings until the skins are soft, about 15 minutes. Remove the steamed dumplings and set aside. Strain through a fine mesh sieve and cool the remaining liquid. Reserve the liquid and adjust the flavor with the lemon juice. Keep chilled in the refrigerator.

To serve: Place two steamed dumplings on a plate; fill a Chinese spoon with peach compote and top with a quenelle of verbena ice cream. Serve with a flute of chilled verbena infusion. Garnish with verbena leaves.

Passion Fruit Dumpling with Chilled Raspberry Soup

(Serves 6)

PATRICE CAILLOT

ingredients

For the raspberry sorbet:

10 ounces granulated sugar
1 cup water
1 quart raspberry puree

For the passion fruit dumplings:

1/2 cup passion fruit puree
2 eggs
3 ounces granulated sugar
1 teaspoon all-purpose flour
1 sheet gelatin, soaked in cold water
18 round wonton wrappers

For the raspberry soup:

2 pounds raspberries
7 ounces granulated sugar
4 cups water
1 cup raspberry puree

For the fauille de brik * strips:

6 sheets feuille de brik *
Melted unsalted butter, as needed Confectioners' sugar, as needed

For the garnish:

Raspberries
Passion fruit seeds

* Available through Paris Gourmet at (800) PASTRY-1.

directions

For the raspberry sorbet: In a saucepan, bring the sugar and water to a boil. Allow to cool and mix with the raspberry puree. Freeze in an ice cream machine according to manufacturer's instructions.

For the passion fruit dumplings: In a large saucepan, bring the passion fruit puree to a boil, reduce the heat, and maintain at a simmer. In a large bowl, combine the eggs, sugar, and flour and whisk until smooth. Temper the egg mixture, adding one-third of the hott passion fruit while whiskin constantly. Whisk the tempered eggs back into the remaining hot passion fruit and place over medium heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon. Maintain at a simmer until the mixture has returned to a boil and maintain the heat for five minutes, whisking constantly. Remove from the heat and strain through a fine mesh sieve and set aside in an ice bath until cooled. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate the mixture. Transfer the chilled passion fruit filling to a pastry bag fitted with a small, plain tip. Pipe a small amount of passion fruit filling into the center of a wonton wrapper. Lightly brush the edges of the wrapper with water and fold over to seal, releasing any air bubbles. Repeat to make 18 dumplings, kee ping covered with plastic wrap.

For the raspberry soup: Over a double boiler, cook the raspberries, sugar, and two cups of water for 45 minutes. Strain the mixture through a fine mesh sieve. Reserve the raspberry soup and discard the solids. Mix in the raspberry puree. Place half the raspberry soup in the refrigerator to cool. Pour the remaining raspberry soup into a saucepan and bring to a simmer. Poach the dumplings in the raspberry soup until the wonton skins are soft, about six minutes. Drain the passion fruit dumplings from the liquid and reserve at room temperature.

For the feuille de brik strips: Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Brush three sheets of feuille de brik with melted butter and dust with confectioners' sugar. Top each sheet with another layer of feuille de brik. Brush with melted butter and dust with confectioners' sugar; trim the feuille de brik into 18 one-half-inch wide, long strips. Lay the strips on a parchment-lined sheet pan. Cover with a sheet of parchment paper and lay a second sheet pan on top to keep the strips flat. Bake until golden brown, about ten minutes.

To serve: Place three passion fruit dumplings in a soup bowl. Ladle chilled raspberry soup on top. Garnish with raspberries and passion fruit seeds. Serve a quenelle of raspberry sorbet separately, garnished with feuille de brik strips.

Caramel Dumplings with Apple Soup

(Serves 6)

Patrice Caillot


ingredients

For the apple sorbet:

8 ounces granulated sugar
1 cup water
Juice of 1 lemon
1 quart green apple puree

For the caramel dumplings:

3/4 cup heavy cream
1/4 vanilla bean, split and scraped
3 ounces granulated sugar
1 ounce corn syrup
18 square wonton wrappers

For the sugar decoration:

4 ounces fondant *
3 ounces corn syrup
1/4 teaspoon powdered milk

For the apple soup:

1 quart water
15 ounces granulated sugar
1 cup fresh Granny Smith apple juice
1/4 vanilla bean, split and scraped
4 Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored, and diced

For the garnish:

Dried apple chips

* Chef Caillot uses the "Fondant Deco Rolling" type of fondant.
Available through Paris Gourmet at (800) PASTRY-1.

directions

For the apple sorbet: In a saucepan, bring the sugar and water to a boil. Allow to cool and mix with the lemon juice and apple puree. Freeze in an ice cream machine according to manufacturer's instructions.

For the caramel dumplings: In a saucepan, scald the cream with the vanilla bean. In a separate saucepan, melt the sugar and corn syrup. Cook, stirring constantly until the sugar becomes a dark brown caramel; gradually pour in the warm cream. Stir the mixture until the caramel is dissolved. Remove from the heat and allow to cool. Cover and refrigerate for four hours. (When chilled, the caramel will be very thick.) Transfer the caramel to a pastry bag fitted with a small, plain tip. Pipe a teaspoon of caramel onto the center of a wonton wrapper. Lightly brush the edges of the wrapper with water and top with a second wrapper. Use a one and one-half-inch ring mold to shape the caramel filling and press the outer edges to seal, releasing any air bubbles, Trim the edges with a fluted pastry wheel. Repeat the above steps to make 18 dumplings, keeping covered with plastic wrap.

For the sugar decoration: Prepare a silpat-lined sheet pan. In a saucepan, cook the fondant and corn syrup to a temperature of 310 degrees. Quickly toss in the powdered milk and remove from the heat immediately. The powdered milk will turn a light golden color, while the sugar remains clear. Pour the sugar mixture onto the silpat-lined sheet pan. When the sugar mixture is cool enough to handle but still pliable, carefully pull off pieces of the soft sugar and stretch them into long, thin strips. Allow the sugar to harden and store in an airtight container.

For the apple soup: In a saucepan, bring the water, sugar, juice, and vanilla to a boil. Add the diced apples and reduce the heat. Maintain at a simmer untill the apples are tender. Drain the apple soup and reserve the cooked diced apples and the liquid separately. Place half the apple soup in the refrigerator to cool. Pour the remaining apple soup into a saucepan and bring to a simmer. Poach the dumplings in the apple soup until the wonton skins are soft, about six minutes.

Drain the liquid and reserve at room temperature.

To serve: Place a two-inch ring mold in a shallow bowl and fill with diced apples. Remove the mold from the apples and lay three caramel dumplings next to the diced apples. Ladle chilled, reserved apple soup to cover the caramel dumplings. Top with a quenelle of apple sorbet. Garnish with an apple chip and a piece of sugar decoration.

Fried Pear and Cinnamon Dumplings with Honey Ice Cream and Chocolate
Soup

(Serves 6)

PATRICE CAILLOT


ingredeints

For the honey ice cream:

2 2/3 cups milk
1 ounce powdered milk
4 egg yolks
1 ounce granulated sugar
1/3 cup honey
2 ounces unsalted butter

For pear dumplings:

1 1/2 pounds Bartlett pears,
 peeled, cored, and diced
5 ounces granulated sugar
3/4 teaspoon pectin powder
1/4 vanilla bean, split and scraped
3 cinnamon sticks
24 square wonton wrappers

For the chocolate soup:

1 quart heavy cream
14 ounces dark chocolate, chopped

For the garnish:

Confectioners' sugar
Cinnamon sticks
Vanilla beans

directions

For the honey ice cream: In a medium saucepan over medium heat, bring the milk and powdered milk to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer. In a medium bowl, combine the egg yolks, sugar, and honey; whisk until smooth. Temper the egg yolks, adding one-third of the hot milk while whisking constantly. Whisk the tempered yolks back into the remaining hot milk and cook over medium heat, stirring constantly until the mixture is thick enough to coat the back of a wooden spoon. Remove from the heat and whisk in the butter. Strain through a fine mesh sieve and set aside in an ice bath until chilled. Freeze in an ice cream machine according to the manufacturer's instructions.

For the dumplings: In a saucepan, combine the pears, sugar, pectin, vanilla, and cinnamon. Simmer until the pears are soft, stirring occasionally to make a compote. Cool and remove the cinnamon and vanilla. Preheat a deep fryer to 350 degrees. Fill a wonton wrapper with a small spoonful of compote. Lightly brush the edges of the wrapper with water and fold over to seal, releasing any air bubbles. Repeat to make 24 dumplings, keeping covered with plastic wrap. Deep-fry the dumplings until golden brown. Drain the excess oil on a paper towel-lined sheet pan. Dust with confectioners' sugar. Reserve the remaining compote.

For the chocolate soup: In a saucepan, scald the cream. Pour over the chocolate and wait 30 seconds. Gently whisk to melt the chocolate and keep warm.

To serve: On a long plate, stack four warm dumplings. Next to the dumplings, set a Chinese spoon filled with pear compote topped with a quenelle of honey ice cream. Serve with a small cup of warm chocolate soup, garnished with a vanilla bean and cinnamon stick.

Mango Sorbet Beignets with Hot Chocolate


(Serves 6)

Patrice Caillot


ingredients

For the mango sorbet:

4 ounces sugar
1 1/2 cups water
2 cups mango puree

For the hot chocolate:

12 ounces milk
12 ounces heavy cream
2 teaspoons mango tea leaves
3 teaspoons granulated sugar
2 teaspoons cocoa powder
8 ounces bitter chocolate, chopped
1/2 cup milk, frothed

For the mango skewers:

1 3-inch piece sugarcane
2 mangoes, peeled, pitted, and cubed
4 ounces granulated sugar
1/4 cup water

For the beignets:

12 round wonton wrappers
1 tablespoon fresh yeast
7 ounces beer
9 ounces all-purpose flour, sifted
Pinch of salt
3 egg yolks
2 ounces vegetable oil
3 egg whites
1 ounce granulated sugar

For the garnish:

Confectioners' sugar

directions

For the mango sorbet: In a saucepan, bring the sugar and water to a boil. Allow to cool and mix in the mango puree. Freeze in an ice cream machine according to manufacturer's instructions. Place the sorbet in the freezer until firm. When the sorbet is firm, scoop 12 half-ounce balls onto a parchment-lined half-sheet pan. Keep covered in a single layer in the freezer.

For the hot chocolate: In a saucepan, bring the milk and cream to a boil. Add the tea leaves and infuse for five minutes. Strain the liquid and whisk in the sugar and cocoa powder to dissolve. Pour the hot liquid over the chopped chocolate. Allow the mixture to rest for 30 seconds and then stir to blend. Pour into cups and spoon frothed milk on top.

For the mango skewers: Peel the sugarcane and cut into 12 thin batons. Spear four cubes of mango on each baton. In a saucepan, caramelize the sugar and water until golden brown. Add the mango skewers and remove the saucepan from the heat immediately. Remove the mangoes from the caramel to cool. Reserve the liquid caramel sauce.

For the beignets: Place a frozen scoop of sorbet in the center of a wonton wrapper. Lightly brush the edges of the wrapper with water and fold over to seal, releasing any air bubbles. Repeat to make 12 dumplings, keeping covered in a single layer in the freezer.

Preheat a deep fryer to 375 degrees. In a bowl, dissolve the yeast in the beer. Whisk in the flour and salt, then whisk in the egg yolks and oil until smooth. Cover with plastic wrap and ferment for 30 minutes. In a separate bowl, whip the egg whites and gradually add the sugar to form soft peaks; fold into the yeast mixture. Remove the dumplings from the freezer and dip into the beignet batter to coat. Deep-fry the beignets until golden brown. Remove beignets from the deep fryer and place on a paper towel to drain excess oil.

To serve: Lay two mango skewers on a plate and drizzle reserved caramel sauce on top. Next to the mango skewers, arrange two beignets, cutting one in half. Dust with confectioners' sugar. Serve with a bowl of hot chocolate topped with frothed milk.

Farina Dumpling with White Asparagus and Morels in Sherry

(Serves 6)

KURT CUTENBRUNNER


ingredients

For the dumplings:

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened
1 egg, separated
2.8 ounces farina *
1 cup ice cubes
Salt, pepper, and nutmeg to taste

For the asparagus:

1 teaspoon granulated sugar
1 teaspoon salt
3 ounces unsalted butter
1 pound white asparagus, trimmed

For the morels:

2 ounces unsalted butter
8 ounces morel mushrooms
2 tablespoons dry sherry
1 tablespoon chicken stock
1/4 bunch chervil, stemmed and minced
Juice of 1/2 lemon
Salt, pepper, and cayenne pepper to taste

For the garnish:

2 ounces unsalted butter, browned
Micro basil

* Farina is often used for making Austrian dumplings. Available through
Haram Christensen Corp. at [phone].

directions

For the dumplings: In a bowl, beat the butter with the egg yolk. Season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Mix in the farina until smooth. In a separate bowl, whisk the egg white with a pinch of salt to make soft peaks. Fold into the farina mixture and mix well to form a smooth dough. Cover and rest for five minutes. Roll the dough into round dumplings and let them rest for about five minutes. Bring a large, covered saucepan of salted water to a simmer. Simmer the dumplings for ten minutes; remove from the heat and add a cup of ice cubes to the water. Cover the pot for 15 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, remove the dumplings and reserve on a paper-towel lined sheet pan, keeping warm.

For the asparagus: Bring a large pot of water to a simmer. Add the sugar, salt, and butter. Add the asparagus and cook until tender. Drain and reserve the asparagus, keeping warm.

For the morels: In a saute pan, melt the butter. Add the morels and saute. Deglaze with the sherry and add the chicken stock. Simmer until the morels and tender. Mix in the chervil and season to taste with lemon juice, salt, pepper, and cayenne pepper; keep warm.

To serve: Place the asparagus on a plate. Cut a dumpling in half and place next to the asparagus. Spoon morels on top of the asparagus. Drizzle brown butter on top and garnish with micro basil.

Liver Dumpling with Wild Ramp Spatzle

(Serves 4)

KURT CUTENBRUNNER


ingredients

For the liver dumplings:

4 ounces calves liver, diced
1/4 onion, peeled and diced
2 ounces breadcrumbs
1 clove garlic, peeled and minced
1 egg
2 sprigs thyme, stemmed and minced
2 sprigs parsley, stemmed and minced
Salt, pepper, and nutmeg to taste

For the spatzle:

6 ounces all-purpose flour
6 ounces Quark *
2 eggs
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 ramps **, trimmed and minced
Salt, pepper, and nutmeg to taste

For the garnish:

Ramp ** leaves

* Quark is a type of unripened cow's milk cheese similar in flavor to
creme fraiche. Available through Harry Wils & Co. Inc. at (201)
770-1180.

** Ramps are strong-flavored wild onions available in the spring.
Scallions or leeks may be used if ramps are unavailable.

Directions

For the liver dumplings: Prepare a meat grinder using a three-eighth-inch coarse plate. Pass the liver and onion through the meat grinder and transfer the mixture to a bowl. Add the breadcrumbs, garlic, egg, thyme, and parsley and combine. Season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Cover and rest for ten minutes in the refrigerator.

Preheat the deep fryer to 325 degrees. Shape the mixture into two-inch round dumplings. Deep-fry the liver dumplings until dark brown, about five minutes. Remove the liver dumplings from the deep fryer and drain on a paper towel-lined sheet pan. Reserve, keeping warm.

For the spatzle: Prepare a large bowl of ice water and set aside. Bring a large saucepan of salted water to a simmer. In a medium bowl, mix the flour, Quark, and eggs together to make a smooth dough. Season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg, and allow to rest for ten minutes. Transfer the batter to a colander and place over simmering water. Using a rubber spatula or bowl scraper, press the batter through the holes of. the colander into the hot water. When the spatzle floats to the surface of the water and appears swollen and fluffy, check for doneness. Remove the spatzle with a slotted spoon and place in ice water to shock and cool; drain and set aside.

In a saute pan, melt the butter and add the ramps. Saute until softened and add the spatzle. Saute the spatzle to warm thoroughly and adjust seasonings with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Reserve, keeping warm.

To serve: Place a ramp leaf on a plate with spoonful of spatzle on top. Set a liver dumpling in the center of the spatzle.

Servietten Knodel

(Serves 4)

KURT CUTENBRUNNER


ingredients

For servietten knodel:

1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1 small onion, peeled and minced
10 ounces day-old baguette, cut into 1-inch cubes
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
4 eggs
2/3 cup milk
2 sprigs parsley, stemmed and minced
1/4 bunch chervil, stemmed and minced
Salt, pepper, and nutmeg to taste

For the garnish:

4 ounces unsalted butter, browned
Double-smoked bacon *, sliced

* Available through Schaller and Weber at [phone].

directions

For the servietten knodel: In a saute pan, melt the butter and saute the onion until translucent. Remove from the heat and allow to cool. In a bowl, combine the baguette, onion, and flour. In a saucepan, warm the milk and pour over the baguette. Add the eggs and mix together. Add the parsley and chervil and season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Cover the bowl with a damp cloth and allow to rest for 20 minutes.

Bring a large saucepan of salted water to a simmer. Lay out a 1 x 2-foot damp piece of muslin or cheesecloth on a flat surface and cut two 6-inch lengths of unbleached, cotton string. Transfer the baguette mixture to the lower half of the cloth, leaving a three-inch border on the bottom and side edges. Roll the cloth up tightly around the bread mixture to form a firm, compact, sausage-like shape. Twist and tie the ends of the cloth. Gently poach the knodel for 15 minutes, inserting a wooden toothpick into the center to check for doneness. Using a slotted spoon, carefully remove the knodel from the heat and drain on rack. Set aside to cool and remove and discard the cloth. Trim the ends of the knodel. Cut into one-inch slices and reserve.

To serve: Brush the slices of servietten knodel with browned butter and partially cover with a liner napkin. Serve with sliced double-smoked bacon.

Oxtail Consomme with Bone Marrow Dumpling

(Serves 8)

KURT CUTENBRUNNER


ingredients

For the consomme:

4 ounces oxtail meat, ground
1 onion, peeled and chopped
1 carrot, peeled and chopped
l rib celery, chopped
1 tomato, chopped
5 egg whites, beaten
6 cups oxtail stock
30 pieces bone marrow
Salt and pepper to taste

For the dumplings:

5 ounces day-old kaiser roll, cut into 1/8 x 1/8-inch cubes
3/4 cup milk
3 1/2 ounces bone marrow
1 ounce unsalted butter, melted
2 eggs
4 ounces bread crumbs
1/4 bunch lovage, stemmed and chopped
Salt, pepper, and nutmeg to taste

For the garnish:

Carrot slices, cooked
Wild asparagus, blanched
Chives, minced

directions

For the consomme: In a food processor, pulse the oxtail meat, onion, carrot, celery, tomato, and egg whites to form a rough paste. In a large saucepan, whisk together the oxtail paste and stock. Simmer, stirring gently until a raft forms on the surface. Simmer for one hour to clarify. Remove from the heat and, using a ladle, carefully strain the liquid through a coffee filter-lined mesh sieve. Discard the raft. Season the consomme and reserve, keeping warm. Transfer one cup of the consomme to a saucepan and simmer. Gently poach the pieces of marrow in several different batches for one minute. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the marrow to a parchment-lined sheet pan and reserve, keeping warm.

For the dumplings: In a bowl, combine the diced kaiser roll with the milk. Squeeze the milk-soaked bread until the mixture is soft and moist. In a food processor, puree the bone marrow. Add the butter and eggs. Mix until smooth. Transfer the egg mixture to the bread mixture. Mix in the breadcrumbs and lovage. Season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Allow the dough to rest for ten minutes. Bring a large pot of salted water to a simmer. Gently roll the dough into eight balls. Poach the dumplings in simmering water for five minutes. Remove from the heat and cover the pot for five minutes. Using a slotted spoon, remove the dumplings and reserve on a paper-towel lined sheet pan.

To serve: Place a dumpling in the center of a shallow bowl. Arrange three pieces of bone marrow around the dumpling along with sliced carrots and wild asparagus. Ladle hot consomme into the bowl and sprinkle with chives.

"Waldviertler" Potato Dumplings

(Serves 6)

KURT CUTENBRUNNER


ingredients

For the filling:

1 tablespoon unsalted butter
2 ounces day-old white bread,
 crust removed, finely diced
1 strip bacon, finely diced
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1 shallot, peeled and minced
3 ounces shiitake mushrooms,
 stemmed and diced
2 sprigs parsley, stemmed and
 chopped Salt and pepper to taste

For the dumplings:

12 ounces russet potatoes, peeled,
 grated, rinsed, and dried
1/2 cup milk
2 ounces all-purpose flour
2 egg yolks
6 ounces Yukon gold potatoes,
 peeled and boiled
Reserved filling
Salt, pepper, and nutmeg to taste

For the fava beans:

3 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 sprig sage, stemmed and julienned
1 sprig thyme, stemmed
1/2 pound fava beans, blanched
 and peeled
Salt and pepper to taste

For the garnish:

Nutmeg
Lemon sage
Thyme

directions

For the filling: In a saute pan, melt the butter. Add the bread and saute until golden brown. Transfer the bread to a bowl and maintain a hot pan. Add the bacon, shallot, and mushrooms. Saute until the bacon is golden. Remove from the heat and mix together with the bread and parsley. Adjust seasonings and set aside to cool, and reserve.

For the dumplings: Place the grated russet potatoes in a mixing bowl. In a saucepan, bring the milk to a boil and pour over the grated potatoes. Set aside to cool to room temperature. When cooled, add the flour and egg yolks and combine. Pass the boiled Yukon gold potatoes through a food mill into the grated potato mixture. Season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Mix to form a dough and knead well on a lightly floured surface. Roll the dough into a six-inch log. Cut into one-inch thick slices. Flatten each piece of dough between the palms and place a tablespoon of filling in the center. Bring up the sides of the dough and pinch to enclose the stuffing. Roll the dough into round dumplings and reserve. Bring a large saucepan of salted water to a simmer. Simmer the dumplings until they begin the float, about 15 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, remove the dumplings and reserve on a paper-towel lined sheet pan.

For the fava beans: In a saute pan, melt the butter. Add the herbs and fava beans and saute. Season to taste and remove from the heat, keeping warm.

To serve: Spoon the fava beans in the center of a plate. Cut a dumpling in half to expose the filling and place in the center of the fava beans. Sprinkle with nutmeg. Garnish with lemon sage and thyme.

Apricot Knodel

(Serves 6)

KURT CUTENBRUNNER


ingredients

For the yogurt ice cream:

1 cup milk
1 cup heavy cream
3 egg yolks
4 ounces granulated sugar
1 cup plain yogurt

For the apricot knodel:

13 ounces potatoes, peeled and quartered
1 ounce unsalted butter
3 ounces all-purpose flour, sifted
1 ounce farina *
1 egg yolk
Pinch of salt
Pinch of ground nutmeg
6 small apricots, halved and pitted
6 sugar cubes

For the apricot halves:

3 ounces granulated sugar
1 ounce unsalted butter
1 ounce apricot brandy
1 2/3 cups Gruner Veltliner
1 1/3 cups Beerenauslese
1 vanilla bean, split and scraped
Juice of 1 lemon
1 sprig lemon thyme
12 apricots, halved and pitted

For the breadcrumbs:

1 ounce unsalted butter, melted
1 ounce breadcrumbs
1 tablespoon confectioners' sugar

For the garnish:

Mint
Verbena leaves
Confectioners' sugar

* Farina is often used for making Austrian dumplings. Available through
Haram Christensen Corp. at [phone].

For the yogurt ice cream: In a medium saucepan over medium heat, bring the milk and cream to a boil. In a medium bowl, combine the egg yolks and sugar; whisk until smooth. Temper the egg yolks, adding one-third of the hot milk while whisking constantly. Whisk the tempered yolks back into the hot milk and place over medium heat, stirring constantly until the mixture is thick enough to coat the back of a wooden spoon. Remove from the heat and strain through a fine mesh sieve. Set aside in an ice bath until cooled. Whisk in the yogurt until smooth and freeze in an ice cream machine according to the manufacturer's instructions.

directions

For the apricot knodel: Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Boil the potatoes in salted water until soft. Drain well and spread out in a single layer on a sheet pan. Place the potatoes in the oven to dry, about five minutes. Remove from the heat and while the potatoes are hot, pass them through a food mill. In a mixing bowl, combine the potatoes together with the butter, flour, farina, egg yolk, salt, and nutmeg to form a dough. Knead the dough on a lightly floured surface until smooth. Cover and rest for ten minutes and reserve.

On a lightly floured surface, roll the dough into a log about six inches long. Cut into six 1-inch pieces. Slightly flatten the dough into pieces large enough to cover a whole apricot. Place one apricot half in the center of the dough. Place a sugar cube in the center and cover with another apricot half. Bring the edges of the dough together at the top and pinch to seal the apricot inside. Gently roll into round dumplings and reserve. Bring a large saucepan of water to a simmer. Poach the dumplings in simmering water until they begin to float, about 15 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, remove the dumplings and reserve on a paper-towel lined sheet pan.

For the apricot halves: In a covered saucepan, melt the sugar while stirring constantly. When the sugar begins to caramelize into a dark brown color, swirl in the butter. Carefully add the brandy to dissolve the sugar. Add both wines, the vanilla bean, lemon juice, and lemon thyme. When the mixture comes to a boil, add the apricots, cover the pan, and remove from the heat. Allow to cool to room temperature and reserve.

For the breadcrumbs: In a mixing bowl, combine the ingredients until they are well-mixed and reserve.

To serve: Spoon two apricot halves on one side of a plate. Place an apricot knodel in the center of the plate and sprinkle the reserved breadcrumbs on top. Cut into the center of each dumpling to expose the filling. Set a quenelle of yogurt ice cream to the side. Garnish with mint and verbena and dust with confectioners' sugar.

Quark Dumpling with Plum Compote

(Serves 6)

KURT CUTENBRUNNER


ingredients

For the Quark dumplings:

1 ounce unsalted butter
1 egg yolk
3 1/2 ounces Quark *
1/2 vanilla bean, split and scraped
Juice and zest of 1/2 lemon
1 1/2 ounces white bread, crust
 removed, cubed, and toasted
2 ounces sour cream
1 ounce all-purpose flour, sifted
1/2 ounce farina **
1/2 ounce granulated sugar

For the plum compote:

5 ounces granulated sugar
5 ounces water
1 stick cinnamon
1 star anise
1 1/2 pounds red plums, pitted and
 sliced

For the breadcrumbs:

2 ounces unsalted butter, melted
2 ounces breadcrumbs
1 ounce confectioners' sugar

For the poppyseeds:

1 ounce black poppyseeds
1 tablespoon unsalted butter, melted

For the garnish:

Sprig of thyme
Confectioners' sugar
Cinnamon sticks
Star anise

* Quark is a type of unripened cow's milk cheese similar in flavor to
creme fraiche. Available through Harry Wils & Co. Inc. at (201)
770-1180.

** Farina is often used for making Austrian dumplings. Available through
Haram Christensen Corp. at [phone].

directions

For the Quark dumplings:

In a bowl, whisk together the butter, egg yolk, Quark, vanilla bean, lemon juice, and zest. In another bowl, combine the bread, sour cream, flour, and farina. Combine together with the Quark mixture. In a separate bowl, whip the egg whites with the sugar until stiff peaks form. Fold into the flour and Quark mixture. Cover and refrigerate for one hour until firm. Bring a large saucepan of water to a simmer. Roll the dough into two-inch round dumplings and reserve. Poach the Quark dumplings in simmering water until they begin to float, about 15 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, remove the Quark dumplings and reserve on a paper-towel lined sheet pan.

For the plum compote: In a saucepan, bring the sugar, water, cinnamon, and star anise to a boil. Remove from the heat and add the plums. Gently mix and allow to cool to room temperature.

For the breadcrumbs: In a mixing bowl, combine the ingredients well and reserve.

For the poppyseeds: Combine the butter and poppyseeds and reserve.

To serve: Spoon the plum compote on a plate. Roll the Quark dumplings in the reserved breadcrumbs. Set a Quark dumpling in the center of the plate and sprinkle the poppyseeds on top of the dumplings; dust with confectioners' sugar. Garnish with a sprig of thyme, cinnamon stick, and star anise.

Trio of Wontons

(Serves 6)

STANLEY WONC


ingredients

For the braised oxtail:

2 tablesponns vegetable oil
2 pounds oxtail
Salt and pepper to teste
Pinch star anise, ground
1/4 onion, peeled and sliced
1/2 clove garlic, peeled and
 crushed
1/2 piece star anise
4 black peppercorns, crushed
1 teaspoon dark soy sauce
3 cups chicken stock

For the spicy eggplant caviar:

4 Japanese eggplant
1/2 red Thai bird chili
1/2 clove garlic
1/2 teaspoon limejuice
1 teaspoon fish sauce *
1 spring cilantro leaves, julienned

For the soybean puree:

1 teaspoon grapeseed oil
1 shallot, peeled and minced
1 small clove garlic, peeled and
 minced
1/4 pound soybeans, blanched and
 peeled
Salt and cayenne pepper to taste

For the cilantro oil:

1/2 bunch cilantro
1/2 cup vegetable oil
Salt to taste

For the beurre blanc:

1 teaspoon grapeseed oil
1 ounce cilantro root **, chopped
1 clove garlic, peeled and minced
1 stick lemongrass, finely minced,
 bottom interior only
1/2 teaspoon black peppercorn,
 cracked
2 teaspoons limejuice
2 tablespoons chicken stock
2 tablespoons heavy cream
4 ounces cold butter, diced
Salt and cayenne pepper to taste

For the wontons:

Reserved fillings
18 round wonton wrappers

For the garnish:

Micro cilantro
Thai basil tips
Chili oil

* Fish sauce is also referred to as nam pla prik, nuoc nam, or patis.
Available in Asian markets.

** Cilantro is often sold with the roots attached

directions

For the braised oxtail: In a saute pan, heat the oil and season the oxtail with salt, pepper, and star anise. Sear on all sides and remove from the pan. onions, garlic, whole star anise, and peppercorns to the pan Saute until the onions are golden brown and deglaze with soy sauce. Add the oxtail and cover with chicken: stock. Simmer until tender, about two hours, occasionally skimming the surface of impurities. Cool slightly and remove the meat from the bone. Reserve six chunks of meat and shred the rest with a fork. Strain the remaining liquid through a fine mesh sieve. Skim off the Lit and reduce until slightly thickened Return the chunks of oxtail meat to the sauce. Season and keep warm. Toss the shredded meat with some sauce to moisten and cool to make the filling.

For the spicy eggplant caviar: Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Cut the eggplant in half length-wise and score the flesh. Season the eggplant and roast with the chili and garlic until the eggplant is tender, about 30 minutes. Scrape the pulp and discard the skin. In a food processor, puree the eggplant pulp, roasted garlic, and chili until smooth. Season with limejuice and fish sauce. Mix in the cilantro. Reserve half of the filling for the garnish.

For the soybean puree: In a saute pan, heat the oil and add the shallot, garlic, and soybeans. Saute until golden brown. Season with salt and cayenne pepper and reserve half the soybeans for garnish. In a food processor, puree the remaining soybeans until smooth and reserve for the filling.

For the cilantro oil: Blanch the cilantro in salted water. Squeeze gently to remove the excess water. Puree with vegetable oil and strain through a fine mesh sieve.

For the beurre blanc: In a saucepan, heat the oil. Add the cilantro root, garlic, lemongrass, and pepper. Saute until translucent and deglaze with limejuice. Reduce until almost dry and add the chicken stock. Reduce by half and add the cream. Add the cold butter bit by bit and season with salt and cayenne pepper. Strain through a fine mesh sieve, keeping warm.

To finish the wontons: Make six of each variety of wonton by placing a small spoonful of each type of cold filling into the center of separate wonton wrappers. Lightly brush the edges with water and fold over to seal. Press to release any air bubbles. Pinch the corners and join together on one side to form the wontons. Keep the wontons separate, according to the types of filling. Arrange the wontons in a single layer on parchment-lined sheet pans and keep covered. In a large pot of salted boiling water, simmer the wontons until the skins are tender, about five minutes. Drain and keep warm.

To serve: Serve the wontons on individual dishes. On the first dish, serve the eggplant wonton with micro cilantro and a quenelle of eggplant caviar. On the second dish, spoon some soybeans on a plate and lay a soybean-filled wonton on top. Garnish with Thai basil tips. On the third dish, place a warm piece of oxtail served with an oxtail-filled wonton. Garnish with micro cilantro. Drizzle beurre blanc and drops of chili and cilantro oil over each wonton.

Spiced Coconut Panna Cotta with Black Sesame Rice Dumplings

(Serves 4)

STANLEY WONC


ingredients

For the sugar decoration:

2/3 cup corn syrup
1/3 cup water
3 ounces granulated sugar
Pinch of fleur du sel

For the panna cotta:

10 ounces unsweetened coconut milk
1 cup heavy cream
3 ounces granulated sugar
1/4 vanilla bean, split and scraped
1/2 teaspoon ground cardamom
1/2 teaspoon ground allspice
4 sheets gelatin, softened in cold
 water

For the black sesame filling:

1 tablespoon black sesame seeds
1 tablespoon granulated sugar
1 tablespoon cocoa butter
Sesame oil to taste

For the rice dumpling:

2 1/2 ounces glutinous rice flour
2 ounces water
1 tablespoon confectioners sugar
1/2 teaspoon grapeseed oil
2 cups water
2 cups granulated sugar

For the garnish:

Unsweetened coconut milk
Jasmine flowers

* Available in Asian markets.

Directions

For the sugar decoration: In a saucepan, combine the corn syrup, water, and sugar. Boil until the temperature reaches 310 degrees. Carefully pour onto a non-stick mat and sprinkle with fleur du sel. When the sugar is slightly cooled, carefully pleat the edges of the non-stick mat to create a wrinkled pattern in the sugar. Allow to harden and then break into small pieces. Store in an airtight container.

For the panna cotta: Arrange four 4-ounce triangular molds on a sheet pan. In a saucepan, bring the coconut milk, cream, sugar, vanilla bean, cardamom, and allspice to a boil. Remove from the heat and add the gelatin to dissolve. Strain through a fine mesh sieve and pour into the prepared triangular molds. Refrigerate until set, about four hours.

For the black sesame filling: Using a mortar and pestle, pound the sesame seeds, sugar and cocoa butter into a paste. Adjust flavors with drops of sesame oil.

For the rice dumplings: In a bowl, mix the rice flour, water, confectioners' sugar, and oil together to make a smooth dough. Transfer to a work surface and roll the dough into a 12-inch log and cut into twelve 1-inch pieces of dough. Slightly flatten each piece of dough and spoon one-quarter teaspoon of the black sesame stuffing in the center. Bring the edges together at the top and pinch to seal the stuffing inside the dough. Gently roll the dough into round dumplings and reserve. In a saucepan, bring two cups of water and sugar to a boil until the sugar is dissolved. Reduce the heat to a simmer. Poach the dumplings in the syrup until they float to the top, about ten minutes. Using a slotted spoon, remove the dumplings from the syrup and reserve.

To serve: Unmold and set the panna cotta on one side of a plate. Place a piece of sugar decoration into the side of the panna cotta. Cut one dumpling open to expose the filling and place two whole dumplings on the dish. Drizzle the plate with coconut milk and garnish with jasmine flowers.

Frog Leg Tapioca Praline with Thai Basil and Laksa

(Serves 10)

STANLEY WONG


ingredients

For the candied chilies:

1 cup granulated sugar
1 cup water
20 dried small red-hot chilies

For the laksa:

2 stalks lemongrass, bottom interior only
2 cloves garlic, peeled
1-inch piece turmeric root *, peeled and chopped
1 -inch piece galangal **, peeled and chopped
1 -inch piece ginger, peeled and chopped
4 candlenuts ***
1/2 small onion, peeled and chopped
2 Thai red chilies
1/2 teaspoon blachan ****
Water, as needed
2 tablespoons grapeseed oil
2 tablespoons palm sugar *****
3 cups chicken stock
1 1/4 cups unsweetened coconut milk

For the Thai basil puree:

1/4 bunch Thai basil, stemmed and blanched in
 salted water
1/4 cup grapeseed oil

For the frogs legs:

2 tablespoons olive oil
20 frogs' legs, cleaned and frenched
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1 cup water
5 ounces small pearl tapioca
1/4 bunch Thai basil, stemmed and blanched
Salt and pepper to taste

For the garnish:

Cucumbers, peeled and sliced
Cilantro leaves
Unsweetened coconut milk
Micro Thai basil

Note: Laksa is a common Southeast Asian soup-based dish. It is typically
spicy and sour, containing coconut milk and often served with noodles.

* Turmeric root is similar to ginger with a strong yellow color and
flavor. Available in Asian markets.

** Galangal is a root similar to ginger and is prominent in Southeast
Asian cooking. Available in Asian markets.

*** Candlenuts are very oily tropical nuts, similar to macadamias. They
must be cooked before ingesting. Available in Asian markets.

**** Blachan is a pungent, shrimp paste, prominent in Southeast Asian
cooking. It is commonly roasted before using. Available in Asian
markets.

***** Palm sugar is an unrefined sugar derived from palm trees and/or
sugar cane, sometimes called jaggery. Available in Asian markets.

directions

For the candied chilies: In a saucepan, bring the sugar and water to a boil. Reduce the heat and add the chilies. Simmer until they appear translucent, about 20 minutes. Remove from the heat and allow to cool in the syrup. Strain the chilies, discarding the syrup, and dry on a cooling rack for about three hours.

For the laksa: In a food processor, puree the lemongrass, garlic, turmeric, galangal, ginger, candlenuts, onion, chilies, and blachan. Add water as needed to make a smooth paste.

In a saucepan, heat the oil; add the paste and saute over low heat until golden and aromatic, about 15-20 minutes. Add the palm sugar, chicken stock, and coconut milk. Dissolve the sugar and simmer for 15 minutes. Strain through a fine mesh sieve, discarding the solids. Using an immersion hand blender, pulse to foam the liquid and keep warm.

For the Thai basil puree: Using an immersion hand blender, puree the basil with the oil until smooth

For the frogs' legs: In a saute pan, heat the oil and saute the frogs' legs until golden brown. Add the butter; saute until golden brown and remove from the heat. Season and set aside to cool.

In a saucepan, bring the water to a boil and add the tapioca. Remove from the heat to allow the tapioca to swell for 30 minutes. Drain the water through a fine mesh sieve and reserve the tapioca.

Prepare a large pot with a bamboo steamer basket. Fill the pot one-quarter full with water and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and maintain at a simmer. Wrap the frogs' legs with the basil leaves and coat with the reserved tapioca pearls. Place in the steamer basket and steam until the tapioca is translucent, about ten minutes. Reserve, keeping warm.

To serve: In a shallow bowl, place two cucumber slices topped with cilantro leaves. Set two frogs' legs on top of the cucumber slices. Pierce the candled chilies with the bones (as shown in the photograph). Ladle foamed laksa into the bowl and drizzle with coconut milk and Thai basil puree. Garnish with micro Thai basil.

Bean Curd and Mushroom Bonbons with Banyuls Syrup

(Serves 6)

STANLEY WONG


ingredients

For the mushroom bonbons:

3 teaspoons olive oil
3 small shallots, peeled and minced separately
12 ounces honshimeji mushrooms
12 ounces chanterelle mushrooms
12 ounces black trumpet mushrooms
18 4 x 8-inch refrigerated bean curd sheets *, rinsed and
 dried 1/4 bunch cilantro, stemmed Salt and pepper to taste

For Banyuls syrup:

1/4 cup white Banyuls vinegar **
2 tablespoons Chinese black rice vinegar ***
1 tablespoon simple syrup

For the vinaigrette:

1 tablespoon white Banyuls vinegar **
1 tablespoon Chinese black rice vinegar ***
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon simple syrup
1/4 bunch chives, minced
Salt and pepper to taste

For the garnish:

Mesclun lettuce
Roasted cherry tomatoes on the vine

* Bean curd sheets are made from the skins that form on the surface when
making tofu. Fresh bean curd sheets vary in size and shape, according to
the manufacturer. Fresh sheets should be rinsed in water before using.
Available through Asia Market at [phone].

** Available through Trufette at [phone].

*** Available in Asian markets.

directions

For the mushroom bonbons: In a saute pan, heat One teaspoon of oil and saute one minced shallot until translucent. Add the honshimeji mushrooms; season and saute until tender, about three minutes. Remove from the heat and reserve one-third of the mushrooms for the garnish, keeping warm. Allow the remaining mushrooms to cool. Repeat the same steps for both the chanterelle and black trumpet mushrooms, keeping each variety of mushrooms separated.

Prepare a large pot with a bamboo steamer basket. Fill the pot one-quarter full with water and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and maintain at a simmer. Lay the bean curd sheets on a flat work surface. Place a tablespoon of honshimeji mushrooms in the center of a bean curd sheet. Top the mushrooms with a few cilantro leaves and fold the long sides of the bean curd sheet over to enclose the filling. Bring up the ends of the bean curd sheet and carefully tie into a knot, keeping the filling in the center. Repeat with the remaining honshimeji, chanterelle and black trumpet mushrooms to make six mushroom bonbons with each type of filling. Transfer the bonbons to the steamer basket and steam until warmed through, about five minutes.

For the Banyuls syrup: In a saucepan, combine all the ingredients and simmer until a very thick syrup forms, about 15 minutes. Cool to room temperature.

For the vinaigrette: In a bowl, mix all the ingredients together and season.

To serve: Lay three bonbons in the center of a plate, including one of each type of mushroom variety. Place each variety of the reserved mushrooms next to the same type of mushroom-filled bonbon. In a bowl, mix the mesclun with half of the vinaigrette and season. Arrange the mesclun next to the mushroom bonbons. Drizzle the Banyuls syrup and remaining vinaigrette over the mushroom bonbons. Garnish with roasted cherry tomatoes.

Seared Foie Gras, Pickled Mango Pot Stickers and Spicy Caramel

(Serves 4)

STANLEY WONG


ingredients

For the galangal ale:

3-inch piece galangal * , peeled
  and sliced
1 stalk, lemongrass, bottom
  interior only, finely minced
2 red Thai bird chilies
3 ounces palm sugar **
1 1/2 cups water

For the spicy caramel:

2 ounces rice vinegar
2 ounces water
1 tablespoon corn syrup
1/2 ounce cilantro root ***
1/4 cup granulated sugar
1 red Thai bird chili, minced
2 cloves garlic, peeled

For the mango pot stickers:

2 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 mangoes, peeled, pitted,
 and finely diced
2 tablespoons reserved galangal ale
2 pieces star anise
1 cinnamon stick
8 round wonton wrappers
1/2 cup water

For the foie gras:

8 3-ounce slices foie gras, seared
1/2 cup reserved galangal ale
Fleur de sel and pepper to taste

For the garnish:

Fleur de sel
Cracked black peppercorns
Star anise
Cinnamon stick
Micro amaranth

* Galangal is a root similar to ginger and is prominent in Southeast
Asian cooking. Available in Asian markets.

** Palm sugar is an unrefined sugar derived from palm trees and/or sugar
cane, sometimes called jaggery. Available in Asian markets.

*** Cilantro is often sold with the roots attached.

For the galangal ale: In a saucepan, combine all the ingredients and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer to reduce by half. Strain through a fine mesh sieve and set in an ice bath to cool. Reserve and keep refrigerated.

For the spicy caramel: Prepare a parchment-lined sheet pan. In a saucepan, simmer the vinegar, water, corn syrup, cilantro root, and sugar until reduced by half. Add the chili and garlic but do not brown. Remove from the heat and using an immersion hand blender, puree the mixture and strain through a fine mesh sieve. Return the mixture to the saucepan and boil until light golden brown. Remove from the heat and using a fork, carefully drizzle the caramel mixture onto a parchment-lined sheet pan. After the caramel has hardened, break up into small pieces for the garnish. Store in an airtight container.

For the mango pot stickers: In a saute pan, heat a tablespoon of oil and saut the mangoes to soften. Deglaze with the galangal ale. Add the star anise and cinnamon stick and simmer until the mixture resembles marmalade. Remove from the heat and discard the star anise and cinnamon stick. Cool to room temperature and set aside.

Lay the wonton wrappers on a flat surface and place a tablespoon of mango filling into the center of each. Brush the edges of the wrappers with water and fold over to seal, pleating the edges and releasing any air bubbles. In a covered saute pan, heat one tablespoon of oil over medium heat. Lay the pot stickers flat side down in the pan. Fry until light golden brown. Add the water and cover the pan tightly with the lid, allowing the pot stickers to steam until the top skins are soft, about five minutes. Remove from the heat and keep warm.

For the foie gras: Season the foie gras with fleur de sel and pepper. In a saute pan, sear the foie gras until golden brown. Remove from the heat and place on a paper towel-lined sheet pan to drain. Drain the excess oil from the pan and deglaze with the galangal ale. Season the sauce and reduce until thick. Reserve and keep warm.

To serve: Place two pot stickers to one side of a plate. Set a piece of spicy caramel next to the pot stickers. Lay two slices of foie gras next to the pot stickers. Sprinide the foie gras with fleur de sel and cracked pepper. Drizzle the sauce from the foie gras and garnish with star anise, a cinnamon stick, and micro amaranth.