Drink in all the delights of Madeira.

MY stomach joined my tonsils for an unexpected conference as we bumped and buffeted our way over a stormy Atlantic for a holiday on the island of flowers.

Things didn't improve when our pilot, deliberately low key, said calmly: "Now, ladies and gentlemen, welcome to one of the world's most interesting airports..."

It was, as I discovered on my first trip to Madeira, to be the understatement of the year.

He was referring to Funchal, an airstrip that clings, limpet-fashion, to the cliffs over a sea pounding the shores hundreds of feet below.

For a couple of heart-stopping minutes, we fluttered in the air before screeching to a well-timed halt in a text-book landing.

That was some years ago and there have since been considerable improvements to the airport facilities, although it still rates as one of my memorable travel journeys.

The airport aside, Madeira is a sight to gladden the heart of any gardener or tourist looking for a tranquil break.

And surprisingly, despite its sometimes stormy weather, there are blooms to delight every month of the year.

The island itself, home of the famous fortified wine, has, of course, been a favourite holiday retreat for the elegant, rich and famous for hundreds of years.

One of its most distinguished visitors in modern times was Winston Churchill who took refuge from the rigours of statesmanship on this lovely Portuguese outpost.

I stood on the spot where "Winnie" would set up his easel and paints at the tiny fishing village of Camara de Lobos.

Today little has changed from the scene he witnessed. I gazed over the tiny, thronged harbour as grizzled fishermen cleaned and packed their daily harvest of rich sea pickings.

It was here, too, that I saw one of the "monsters of the deep" - the famous local delicacy esparda, the cutlass fish, a terrible black creature. But when it's cooked you'll be asking the chef for more.

The island prides itself on excellent food from heavyweight chick pea soups laced with tomato and onion to roast rabbit cooked in mouth-watering spices.

But watch out for the local garlic-laced sauce - it's an absolute flame-thrower.

A visit to one of the wine shippers should be high on your "must see" list for a chance to sample some of the fine, smoky ports and of course, the Madeira.

Do call into the regal Reids Hotel on the outskirts of Funchal for a treat not to be missed... an elegant afternoon tea.

It will certainly calm any pre-flight nerves you may have.

Shortbreak specialist Cresta Holidays (0161 927 7000) have reasonably-prices packages to the island. London-based Airwaves (0181 875 1188) have tailor-made breaks, along with Cadogan Holidays (01703 332661).

How it rates: Solos: You are never alone... with a flower. Take a camera and capture the island's amazing beauty.

Couples: Nature lovers will love the scenery and the shopping.

Families: Not a real place for beaches, but the kids will love the fine hotel swimming pools.