Dressing the part: everything about them sends a message, so savvy execs make sure their attire hits just the right note. (Disposable Income).

As CEO of a print procurement services firm in New York, Doug Evans does business and rubs shoulders with a cross section of people every day. He may have breakfast with his company's buttoned-down investors, meet with the funky art director of an advertising firm in the afternoon and attend a black-tie function at the Metropolitan Museum of Art that evening. Never wanting to seem out of step -- or have to dash back to his office for a quick change -- Evans, whose company is called Servador, came up with a uniform for every occasion. His signature outfit: black jacket, black shirt and tie, and black pants.

"Everybody looks good in black," says Evans, sounding for a moment more like a fashionista than a CEO. He favors classy but quiet styles from such designers as Armani, Calvin Klein and Donna Karan.

Although such basic yet formal attire may seem a bit stark for the corner office, it's becoming increasingly common. In the sober aftermath of September 11, the Enron debacle and the nation's first recession in a decade, CEOs are paying attention to their appearance more than ever. Bull-market fancy, like business casual, is out.

"Corporate America is concerned about the image it projects," says Richard Ackourey Jr., CEO of Ackourey Clothiers, a Philadelphia-area company that specializes in wardrobe services for top execs. "There's a uniform in every sport, and when a multibillion-dollar deal is on the line, you want to be dressed for business." Ackourey recommends the timeless navy striped suit with white shirt, French cuffs and a burgundy tie.

Even on days when CEOs don't have outside engagements, they need to be prepared. CEOs "never know when they may find themselves in front of the media, investors or Wall Street," says presentation specialist Joyce Newman, principal of the Newman Group in New York.

Christine Jacobs, CEO of Theragenics, a manufacturer of cancer-treating radiation devices, spends much of her time inside the company's headquarters outside Atlanta -- and still she dresses up. "'Whether I like it or not, I am a public figure, and I have a responsibility to represent my company and its employees by looking my best," says Jacobs, who opts for tailored lightweight wool suits, typically in black or red.

Like many CEOs, Jacobs relies on professionals to make sure she dresses the part. She credits her pulled-together appearance to specialists at Giorgio Armani in Manhattan, Escada in San Francisco and Saks Fifth Avenue in Atlanta, whom she found through other women CEOs whose style she admired. The clothiers send the time-starved Jacobs ensembles three or four times a year on approval.

Richard Ackourey helps his clients revamp their wardrobes by having them complete a survey of where they shop, what styles and brands they like, and how much they're willing to spend. Then he takes their measurements and coordinates outfits. Ackourey uses fabrics from around the world, and a designer and a third-generation Italian tailor develop patterns. He doesn't charge for fittings or consultation, but prices start at $1,495 for a two-piece suit.

One client, a CEO who runs two companies, once showed Ackourey three closets stuffed with 20 years worth of clothes. The CEO's wife cheered while the haberdasher threw out 44 pairs of trousers the CEO hadn't worn in more than a decade.

Staples like the navy suit are best, Ackourey says. The navy suit is even a favorite of Roger McCarthy, COO of Breckenridge Ski Resorts, part of Colorado's Vail Resorts. The twist is that his navy blue uniform is a European-styled Fila ski suit. "I have to have something classy, sporty and technical all at once," he says.

McCarthy often straps on his skis and goes "flying around the hill in the afternoon," as he puts it. "It's like a big factory: You've got to be out there to see what's going on, and it's important for our employees to see me. How I look as the COO had better communicate my passion for skiing and the mountains."

A ski suit, no matter how stylish, surely wouldn't impress George Zimmer, founder and CEO of The Men's Wearhouse, a retailer based in Houston. Zimmer cringes at the informality of many leading execs. "Most men underdress today," he says, citing Bill Gates, the casual techie-turned-billionaire CEO. But Zimmer happily confirms that more traditional attire is coming back. "People believe the better you're dressed, the better presentation you make," he says. "That's an opportunity that should not be left in the closet."

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