Do it yourself.

HERE ARE TIPS for completing do-it-yourself projects at your communities from syndicated columnist Gene Austin.

Q. The baseboard trim in my building is scuffed and badly needs refinishing. There also are shallow dents where the trim was bumped by vacuum cleaners. I want to refinish the trim but it is awkward to work so close to the floor. What do you recommend?

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A. For best results, remove the trim so you can scrape, sand and refinish it without damaging floors or walls. The trim is attached to the wall with finishing nails and is usually not difficult to remove, but you must work carefully to avoid damaging it or the wall. Work the blade of a putty knife behind the end of each piece of trim and pry gently. When you have opened a gap along the piece of trim, switch to a larger pry bar to complete removal. Number each piece on the back so you can replace it in the same position. Do not pound the nails out through the front of the trim--that will splinter and damage it. Instead, grip each nail from behind with pliers and pull it out through the back; the small nail head will leave only a neat hole that is easily filled.

Lay the trim flat on a workbench. Scrape and sand off the scuffs and shallow dents using 100-grit sandpaper, preferably in a power-finishing sander. Fill the nail holes and any deep dents with spackling compound and sand flush when dry. Bare spots and spackled areas should be primed with a latex primer. When the primer is dry, apply two coats of acrylic-latex enamel.

Install the trim pieces in the order that they were removed. Use 2-1/2-inch finishing nails driven close to the same spots where the old nails were removed. Set the nail heads slightly under the surface with a nail set, spackle the new nail holes and touch them up with paint.

Q. Our bathroom smells like mold or mildew and we can't figure out where the odor is coming from, We think it might be behind the vanity or possibly in the wall in that area. What can we do about it?

A. If you have only the odor to guide you and no visible signs of mildew or mold, it can be very difficult to pinpoint the source. I know of a case where people tore the drywall off walls in an effort to find the source of a musty odor, but found nothing suspicious. Mold was finally found under the tiles on the concrete floor. I think the best bet at this point is to check all around the vanity for plumbing leaks. Also, check caulking around the vanity and other fixtures for possible gaps that might be letting water get into walls or floor.

Moisture, of course, is the basic trigger of mold, so check around the toilet and tub for possible leaks. Obviously, any leaks should be repaired immediately. Make sure the bathroom is well ventilated during showers and baths, using a vent fan with an outside outlet to carry out moisture. When the bath is not being used, running a dehumidifier should help dry it out. If the odor continues after a reasonable time and you feel it must be corrected, some dismantling in suspected places might be necessary.

Quick Tip. One reader says he uses a "middle-knuckle knock" to find wood studs in walls when he wants to hang shelves or other heavy objects. Basically, knock along the wall and listen for a hollow (low-pitched) sound or solid (high-pitched) sound. The high-pitched sound indicates a stud inside the wall. This works best on walls covered with drywall, but isn't much use on thicker plaster walls or those covered with tiles or other thick material.

Questions and comments should be e-mailed to Gene Austin at [e-mail].