Dinner with a view of Lake Nipmuc.

Byline: Christine E. Thompson

Mendon has that classic New England village look with its clapboard or shingled houses, small businesses and rural feel.

Makes me think life might be a little slower and less hectic. On the other hand, we were surprised at how busy it was as we approached Alicante on a Wednesday evening. This was definitely not a sleepy little town. Taking the last available space in the lot, we entered to find a full dining room and a 30-minute wait in the lounge.

In the main room of the restaurant, white-clothed tables are arranged on both sides of a wide center aisle and angled so that most diners have a view of Lake Nipmuc. This setup and the large windows opening to the lake give a feeling of spaciousness and relaxation. Seated next to a window, we looked over the menu and heard the specials described by our waiter. Crusty bread and soft butter were offered while we decided.

The menu features an appealing range of Spanish and Italian dishes, from simple pasta dishes such as linguine or rigatoni with seafood to variations on traditional favorites such as sauteed veal with spinach and Serrano ham or chicken with white wine and capers to heartier dishes such as grilled sirloin or rack of lamb with a Rioja wine sauce. The frequent use of sherry, Madeira, Serrano ham, chorizo and saffron rice give a distinctively Spanish cast to the menu.

My friend ordered the best dish of the evening, a seared raw tuna appetizer ($12.50). Encrusted with black and white sesame seeds, the tuna was sliced thin and served with wasabi aioli and a bit of greens. The richness of the tuna flesh, the crunch and flavor of sesame and the bite of the wasabi came together in a well-executed dish of contrasting flavors and textures.

I opted for the special salad ($6.99), red and yellow tomato wedges arranged around a mound of field greens, lightly dressed with a honey balsamic vinaigrette and topped with crumbled blue cheese. In spite of the fresh, crisp lettuce, the mild cheese and the sweet-tart dressing, the salad was disappointing because the tomatoes had little flavor and a mushy texture.

The paella marinera ($22) came to the table in an authentic paella pan, a shallow, flat-bottomed pan with handles. A very large portion of shellfish - mussels, clams, shrimp and lobster - had been cooked together with saffron rice, accented with green peas and small strips of roasted red pepper. This dish was full of flavor.

The other entree we sampled was called solomillo ($24), a 12-ounce grilled filet mignon prepared with a sherry mushroom sauce. The steak was cooked rare to medium rare just as requested. The mushrooms gave a deep, earthy flavor to the sauce; the sherry flavor was more subtle. Together these made a delicious dipping sauce for the meat and mashed potatoes. Unless you have a very big appetite, the entree portions are more than you'll be able to finish.

On the waiter's recommendation, I ordered a glass of Solaz ($5.95), a Spanish red wine blend of tempranillo and cabernet, an excellent choice to accompany the paella and the filet. It had a dark, cherry red color and a balanced, fruity flavor with a spicy undertone.

It was hard to choose from the dessert tray. Creme brulee ($7) and a warm bread pudding ($8) won the lottery. As you might expect from a Spanish restaurant, flan was also among the offerings, but I love the caramelized sugar crust over custard so I opted for the brulee instead. The warm bread pudding was dense, sweet and spicy and accompanied by a small scoop of vanilla ice cream. Both desserts were clean-your-plate good.

The total bill for this meal for two, including one appetizer, one salad, two entrees, one glass of wine and two desserts with coffee, was $94.91 without the tip.

Our evening at Alicante was quite pleasant and relaxing. The ambience, the carefully paced service and the good food all contributed to a satisfying experience.

Christine E. Thompson, a former chef and caterer, is the associate dean of the School of Arts & Sciences at Johnson & Wales University in Providence.

Alicante Mediterranean Grill

84 Uxbridge Road, Mendon

www.alicantama.com

* * *

Hours: 4 to 10 p.m. Wednesdays through Fridays, 4 to 10:30 p.m. Saturdays, 3 to 9 p.m. Sundays

Phone: [phone]

Reservations: For parties of six or more

Parking: Large lot plus valet service

Credit Cards: Visa, MasterCard, Diners Club, American Express, Discover

Prices: Moderate; entrees $16 to $24

Pluses: Relaxed setting, good service. Loved the seared tuna appetizer.

Minus: Flavorless tomatoes in the salad.

About the Stars

Perfection: * * * *

Very Good: * * *

Good: * *

Below Par: *

Serious Flaws: No stars

Etc. restaurant reviews are the opinions of reviewers based upon at least one visit to the restaurant. The reviewer is accompanied by at least one companion. Recommendations from readers about restaurants they would like to have reviewed are welcome.