Delights of the General's kitchen; table FOR 2 The General Havelock Inn, Haydon Bridge, Northumberland.

Byline: GEOFF LAWS

IN 2009 Haydon Bridge will be a beautiful Northumbrian village again. That's when the bypass will be finished and the juggernauts thundering through the tiny main street will be no more. Roll on that day!

In the mean time, just a few metres away from the thoroughfare, there's another world to be found.

In the dining room of the General Havelock Inn there's an oasis of calm. The 18th Century building with its solid stone walls has had many lives and now the barn at the back hosts one of the finest restaurants west of Hexham. The windows look out on to a garden terrace beside the smooth flowing Tyne, where a marquee extension makes riverside aperitifs an all year round option, but the action indoors was too strong a pull to dilly dally. We'd arrived hungry and keen to get started.

The table d'hote menu offered two, three or four course options. Two was too few and four might be a bit much, so we went for three, made our choices and settled to a glass of rosy Rioja and rolls.

The setting sun bathed the riverbank cottages in amber light, swallows soared and dipped over the water and peace spread all around.

A moment to savour before my first course of wild mushroom tagliatelli with shaved parmesan arrived. The fresh pasta, surrounded by mushrooms, was coated in a light cream sauce infused with the earthy mushroom juices. Just writing about it brings back all the mouthwatering deliciousness.

My companion's sliced smoked duck starter was just as good. Lightly smoked breast meat was fanned around deep purple beetroot jelly with a swish of mild horseradish on top. Chicory leaves cupped more salad and the mix of smoky, tangy, sweet and crunchy worked wonderfully well.

Chef, Gary Thompson, moved confidently on to main courses and we followed happily. My roast chump of lamb with summer vegetables, lentils and gratin potatoes proved he was a good guide. The hearty cut of lamb was well seasoned and juicy and I hardly needed the extra dish of vegetables that came too.

My companion's fish pie with cheese crumble gave the lie to this being a leftovers dish. Pieces of salmon fillet and milky white fish came in a cream and vegetable sauce with a crunchy, savoury crumble on top. The mini-tureen it was served in created a few tactical problems, but once she was through the crumble, it was plain sailing.

Desserts of summer pudding with creme fraiche produced a re-interpretation of a classic dish. Softly poached fruit came in a juice-soaked bread casing with every berry and cherry you could want in glorious profusion.

My peach ice cream sundae was the essence of summer, with a well-rounded, flavour some ice cream surprised by zingy peach schnapps hiding in the fruit salad. The well thought out layering of flavours and textures in this dish was typical of the whole meal, which from beginning to coffee-and-petits-fours end, did us, the Thompsons and General H. proud.

Address: The General Havelock Inn, 9 Ratcliffe Road, Haydon Bridge, Northumberland. Tel: [phone]

Open: Tuesday-Saturday noon-2pm; 7pm-9pm

Where is it? Going towards Carlisle, it's on the left just across the bridge.

First impressions: Welcoming country inn.

Welcome: Joanna Thompson does front of house and does it well. Her style is fresh and friendly.

Style, design and furnishings: Comfy seating, unfussy table settings, plenty of rusticana with harnesses and gleaming copper pans plus military uniforms and a massive drum paying homage to the General.

Cuisine: Modern British.

Wine: Rioja 2006 Tempranillo. Lightly fragrant but with a big, curranty body and a mellow aftertaste.

Service: Well-timed between courses and professional, calm delivery.

Value: Food this good is excellent value at pounds 69.50.

Parking: Lots of spaces in the side street over the way.

Disabled facilities: Fully accessible.

CAPTION(S):

FINE DINING: The General Havelock Inn, Haydon Bridge, Northumberland.; OASIS OF CALM: The dining room of the General Havelock, Haydon Bridge.