Delicate flavors work well in holiday brunch.

Byline: FRESH APPROACH By Jan Roberts-Dominguez The Register-Guard

At a wedding reception one summer, Mom and I were seated with five other women and One Guy. One Guy's wife looked around and let out a satisfying "Hah!"

"Finally!" the wife crowed, referring to the number of women at our table. "A wedding reception where I won't have to endure a bunch of sports talk."

One Guy sunk deeper into his chair, arms folded in resignation.

But a familiar glint had formed in my mother's eyes. She and I exchanged knowing grins, and the next thing you know, Mom was off and running:

"What do you think about the Jeff Garcia trade to the 49ers?"

One Guy perked up. One Guy's wife gasped, then headed off in search of champagne.

Too bad. She missed an insightful analysis of the NFL, NBA and the Pac 10, with a little Tiger Woods chitchat thrown in for dessert.

Mom has always been a tad contrary that way. At a time when all the other mothers were forcing their children to fork down vegetables, my mother let me pass. On her part, there were no tantrums, no tirades and certainly no threats.

Mom's philosophy has always been lose the battle, win the war. In the case of vegetable combat, evening skirmishes never took place at the Roberts' dining table because Mom was hoping that in good time - with psyche intact - I'd come around on my own.

That time came in my early teens, during an elegant Easter brunch at the Ahwahnee Hotel in Yosemite National Park. Thanks to a persuasive waiter named Ramon who insisted that the green beans weren't to be missed, I took a token helping.

The beans were obviously fresh, lovingly French cut (in a restaurant, that's hours of prep time!), carefully cooked just until tender, and lightly laced in drawn butter. One bite and I was hooked. I went back for three helpings and have been partial to French cut green beans ever since.

From that point on, thanks to my mother's enlightened attitude, I was open to discovering the humble goodness in all fruits and vegetables.

Now, when the spring lineup of fresh produce hits the market - luscious strawberries, zesty rhubarb, emerald green peas, lavendar chives blossoms and elegant asparagus - I can truly celebrate the harvest.

Of course, that pivotal experience at the Ahwahnee also set me on course for a lifelong love of brunches. It's the one meal that falls between the civilized hours of 10 a.m. and 2 p.m., which in my estimation is the perfect time to be facing decadent fare: late enough that it looks appetizing, yet early enough so that any overindulgence can be worked off with a little afternoon exercise - say a triathlon and several sets of tennis.

To partake in a brunch this Easter, design a menu that eliminates or at least cuts down on last-minute preparation, keeping in mind that the food should be festive yet comforting. Delicate, not sharp, flavors work best at this time of day.

Also, remember that the best buffet foods are those that are delicious and attractive at a wider range of temperatures, from hot to room temperature.

Then, load the table with fresh fruit, flowers and pretty linen to ensure brightened spirits.

Additionally, consider the following when planning a brunch:

Clear pitchers of orange and tropical fruit juices in sunshine colors are enticing. Be sure to add sprigs of mint.

When serving more than four people, choose a main course that does not have to be prepared at the last minute.

Instead of butter alone, serve cream cheese along with red berry jam, peach preserves and a citrus marmalade with a bit of bite.

Present bowls of plain and fruity yogurts alongside a selection of favorite toppings, including raisins, chopped nuts, granola and melon chunks.

Slice a loaf of French bread lengthwise, spread with butter, and toast under the broiler.

Fresh Green Beans For A Crowd

These beans are reminiscent of the simple preparation I fell in love with at the Ahwahnee brunch way back in my early teens. It's a delightfully understated way to serve green beans. They are easily prepared ahead of time, still retaining their crispness and color. It's easy to reduce the quantities of this recipe.

3 pounds fresh or frozen French cut green beans

6 to 8 tablespoons softened butter, cut in 4 pieces

Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

3 tablespoons minced parsley

When working with fresh beans, I work in two stages to preserve the color and texture. Stage one is to trim and French cut the beans, then drop them into a large pot of boiling water. As soon as the water returns to a boil, simmer for about 2 or 3 minutes - just until the beans are barely tender. Quickly remove the pot of beans from the burner and take them to the sink where you strain them through a collander, then plunge them into a large pot of cold water to stop the cooking process. Have the cold water ready to go before bringing the beans over to the sink.

If preparing ahead, at this point refrigerate the beans in plastic bags until ready to finish cooking.

When ready to serve, toss the beans in a large, heavy skillet over moderately high heat to evaporate moisture and reheat them. Add a piece of butter and toss briefly. Salt and pepper to taste, then add the rest of the butter gradually, alternating with drops of lemon juice while still tossing.

Taste for seasoning. Turn into a hot vegetable dish, sprinkle with parsley and serve immediately.

Makes 12 servings.

Recipe adapted from: "Private Collection" by the Junior League of Palo Alto Inc.

Fresh Strawberries, Oranges

and Kiwifruit Platter With

Timberline Poppy Seed Dressing

6 navel oranges

8 kiwifruit

1 pint strawberries

Timberline Poppy Seed Dressing (recipe follows)

Chives blossoms for garnish (optional)

Peel each orange by cutting a slice from the top and bottom, then slicing away strips of the peel cutting from top to bottom, all the way around the orange, until the juicy flesh is completely exposed. Turn the oranges on their sides and slice into 1/4 -inch rounds; set aside.

Peel the kiwifruit, turn on their sides and slice into 1/4 -inch rounds.

Wash the strawberries, then drain and pat dry. Leave their frilly green tops intact.

Pile the berries into the center of a large platter and then arrange the oranges and kiwifruit attractively around the berries.

Garnish with fresh chives blossoms, if available.

Serve with Timberline Poppy Seed Dressing on the side.

Timberline Poppy Seed Dressing

2 cups sour cream

4 tablespoons honey

1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar

1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

2 tablespoons poppy seeds

In a blender or food processor, blend sour cream, honey, vinegar and vanilla until smooth.

Pour mixture into serving bowl and stir in poppy seeds. Set aside in refrigerator.

Recipe adapted from "Timberline Lodge Cookbook" by Chef Leif Eric Benson.

Rhubarb Filbert Muffins

1 1/2 cups diced fresh rhubarb, or 2 cups frozen sliced rhubarb

2 cups all-purpose flour

1 tablespoon baking powder

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon cinnamon

1 egg

1/2 cup packed light brown sugar

3 tablespoons red currant jelly

1 cup milk

4 tablespoons butter, melted

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1/2 cup chopped toasted hazelnuts

If you are using frozen rhubarb, spread it on the counter for about 5 minutes until the rhubarb is thawed enough to finely dice.

While rhubarb thaws, heat oven to 375 degrees. Grease (14 regular size or 48 miniature) muffin cups, or use paper or foil baking cups.

In a large bowl, combine flour, baking powder, salt and cinnamon.

In a medium-size bowl, whisk egg, brown sugar and currant jelly until smooth (jelly will not completely dissolve). Whisk in milk, butter and vanilla. Stir in the hazelnuts and finely diced rhubarb. Pour over dry ingredients and gently fold in with a rubber spatula just until dry ingredients are moistened.

Scoop batter into muffin cups. Bake 20 to 30 minutes, or until light brown and springy to the touch in the center.

Turn out onto a rack and cool at least 15 minutes before serving.

Makes 14 regular-sized muffins or 48 miniatures.

Recipe adapted from "Muffins'' by Elizabeth Alston.

Asparagus Tips

and Roasted Red Pepper Salad

This is a colorful dish - an old-fashioned springtime classic brightened with roasted red peppers.

2 1/2 pounds fresh asparagus

6 sweet red bell peppers, roasted and peeled (as described below)

4 tablespoons red or white wine vinegar

1 cup extra-virgin olive oil

Salt and freshly ground pepper

4 hard-cooked eggs, chopped

To prepare the asparagus tips, first cut each stalk to measure 4 to 5 inches long. (Save the lower portion of the stalk to use in a soup or stir-fry.) Peel the stems to within 1/2 inch of the budded tips. Plunge the asparagus into a large pot of boiling, salted water and cook, uncovered, for 4 to 5 minutes, just until the stems are barely tender when pierced with a sharp knife. Drain immediately and plunge into cold water to stop the cooking and set the color; drain again.

Arrange the asparagus and pepper strips on a large platter (if done the night before, cover with plastic wrap at this point and refrigerate).

Whisk together the vinegar, olive oil, salt and pepper.

When ready to serve, spoon the vinaigrette over the asparagus, and top with the chopped hard cooked egg.

Serves 12.

Roasted and peeled peppers: Place washed peppers under the broiler and broil on all sides until black all over. Remove them to a bowl and place a plate or lid on top. Leave them to steam and cool for about 10 minutes (the steaming process helps loosen the skins). When cool enough to handle, peel the blackened skin off the peppers. Core and remove the seeds. Cut into long, thin strips. This can be done several days ahead, then covered and refrigerated.

Recipe adapted from "Easter Menus by Chuck Williams" by Chuck Williams of Williams-Sonoma retail stores and catalogs.

Jan Roberts-Dominguez is a Corvallis food writer, cookbook author and artist. She can be reached at [e-mail].