Death Wish.

BICYCLES ARE A RARE SIGHT ON THE TRAFFIC-CHOKED streets of Caracas, where the only way motorists get to their destinations is to be pushier than the next guy. Practice defensive driving here and you may not even get out of the driveway--not exactly the ideal environment for flimsy, pedal-powered vehicles.

But that doesn't worry the Ecological Messengers, a 3-year-old fleet of bicycle couriers who risk life and limb navigating 60 to 70 kilometers of Venezuela's chaotic capital each day simply because they love cycling." We compete in cycling races," explains biker Alberto Perez, 37. "This way we get to train and earn money at the same time."

Ecological Messengers is the brainchild of Marcel Maduro and his father, Manuel, both avid cyclists. The men decided bike riders would make less polluting, not to mention less infuriating, errand runners. Traditionally, courier work in Caracas has been handled by motorcyclists infamous for their swerve-and-dodge tactics.

"Clients like the idea of contributing toward decongesting the traffic and pollution," says Marcel. But it's not a job for anyone. Motorists steeped in road rage, a broiling sun and exhaust fumes can be overwhelming.

"You have to have a passion for cycling," Perez says. Now if only that passion were contagious...