Danish impressions of Yemen (Culture).

A group of Danish citizens visited Yemen recently on a cultural study tour. For all involved it was a first time visit to Yemen, and for most it was the first time they had visited any country in the Middle East. The group included a teacher of history and comparative religions, an arts and design teacher, a social worker in a hospital, a retired nurse, a prison guard, a chemist who is also an activist and his son who is currently at university.

The tour lasted two weeks and included visits to Sana'a, Manakha, Ibb, Mahwait, Taiz, Kawkaban, Zabid, and Hodeidah. "We hesitated before coming because of the risk, and especially because other governments had already issued travel warnings. But our government had no particular instruction so we decided to go ahead."

It all started one year ago, when Osbjorn Petersen, a lecturer in Chemistry and Physics and an activist with the Crossing Boarders Program in Denmark, met a woman by chance who interested him in visiting Yemen. He asked her to remember him when the time for the trip came - she did, and so he came to Yemen.

"I had seen the movie "A New Day in the Old City" and liked it, and I had also read an article about the Old City of Sana'a in the Saudi-Aramco World magazine. The article talked about a small garden in the city, unfortunately we could not find it, apparently it no longer exists," he said.

Osbjorn was interested in Yemeni architecture and the beautiful buildings, especially in Manakha. "If there is anything I will take back from this experience, it is how simple life can be and that we should take the time to enjoy life, not just commercially but in its natural form," he commented. He added that he found the people so easy to talk to and welcoming. "The people in Yemen don't annoy the tourists a lot; they offer you something but if you say no, they don't insist."

"The Yemenis are not afraid to speak their minds, and when I said I was from Denmark I expected to find some resistance, but fortunately they were ok with it. I wanted to show them that Danish people are nice and can be their friends, and demonstrate that not everything they hear or see on TV is necessarily true. It was good to be able to sit side by side with them, share the food, and even dance without thinking of our ideological differences."

Inge Nygaard Madsen is a sixty seven year old retired nurse. She heard about the trip from her friend who is the mother of an activist of Iraqi descent named Saleha. Saleha was organizing various trips to the Middle East and, having been to Yemen several times, she was keen to recommend it as a destination to anyone who might be interested. Inge was very much interested in the Arabic culture, especially given that she meets many Arabs through her work as a volunteer in a local social services center.

"I realized I would not get such an opportunity again, so I decided to go ahead with the adventure. I tried to find some information in Danish to prepare me for the trip, but did not find much," she said.

Her impression about Yemen is very positive, although she was touched by the ordeal of the young mothers whom she came across during her travel in the rural areas. The best thing she says is that everyone smiles at you, some even wave and say hello! How are you?!

"As a nurse I could not help but want to help the people, I saw so much poverty and hope that I can come back after a couple of years and see some positive changes," she said.

Yet what really makes her wonder is how the very poor people seem so happy and content with their lives. They smile and welcome visitors and even offer what little they have to complete strangers. Inge was a bit upset because of the trash scattered around the country. "Especially plastic bags," she said. She called on Yemenis to protect their environment more and to mobilize schools and social groups to help clean up the small towns.

Ebbe Filt Petersen, a university student and Osbjorn's son, was encouraged by his father to come along on this trip. Ebbe hesitated a little because he had heard about the attack against the American embassy before coming and wondered whether it would be safe, "but I wanted to visit exotic places and I guess as a simple tourist I was not really at risk." He had heard about weapons and Qat and was surprised that there are not so many weapons as he was informed.

"I love everything, the nature, the food, the friendly people and especially the mountains. Yemen has a very beautiful landscape," he said.

Ebbe bought several Jambiyas and learnt a few steps of Jambiya dancing. He actually chewed Qat twice during his less-than-two-week visit, once for four hours and then again for six hours. "No effect." said the college student. "Maybe they did not give me strong Qat," he laughed.

He was astonished at how most Yemenis are covered from head to toe. "Honestly, it felt like I am in a country where there are only men and children and some third species whose faces and bodies I could not see," he said. Yet he was quite respectful of the local traditions and tried to learn a few Arabic words. Perhaps the only Yemeni friend he made during the trip was the driver who was also their tour guide. He had a great time hiking, and can't even describe how beautiful Yemeni mountains are.

"One thing I learnt from this trip," he said, "is that the world really is a small place, and very well connected."

Tyge Woetmann Nielson is a high school teacher of history and comparative religions. He studied Arabic language in the course of his work and, when he heard about the trip to Yemen, he jumped at the idea. "I even convinced my wife to come along, and we enjoyed our time thoroughly," he said.

Tyge has been to Egypt twice, to Israel and the West Bank, to Turkey and Tunisia. He has also been to southern Spain, and seen the Islamic architecture.

Before coming he knew about the cliffs and the narrow streets and distinguished architecture. If he can, he will be back to see Hadramout and Shibam, and even Socotra. He thinks Yemenis are very kind for the most part, but was disappointed that his group was not allowed to go inside the mosques. Tyge thinks the Yemeni food is ok, but he had to be careful with the food, largely because he had stomach problems when he ate a local dish in Zabid.

"I had an idea of what I would find in Yemen, but did not expect it to be so beautiful," he said. Although some friends told him not to come, he is glad he did not listen.

Bert Bjornow is a teacher of literature, arts, and design, and is Tyge's wife. She has a special interest in Islamic architecture, and was delighted when she got the chance to come to see Yemen. "Somehow it reminds me of the 1001 Nights," she smiled. Some of her friends warned her against coming here, yet others were so jealous. "My friend was going to New York, but she said she wished she would go to Yemen instead," explained Bert.

There isn't much published about Yemen, especially in languages other than Arabic and English. The internet also has conflicting information although it was one of the sources she used to understand what she was up against. But Bert realized that the touring process is much easier than the process of deciding whether or not to come to Yemen. She has made it her responsibility from now on to be Yemen's ambassador to her friends and family, and tell them how beautiful and interesting this country is. Although her husband noted that, for tourists who are looking for luxury 5 star hotels and so on, Yemen is probably not the place to be. "I bought some silver jewelry and gems, and a Sitara which the women wear on top of their clothes, and of course the Jambiya," she added.

Grethe Toulsen is a social worker in a hospital who heard about the trip from her neighbor, the retired nurse.

"I didn't even know where Yemen was!" she exclaimed. "I needed more information so I searched and saw something on the Red Cross website. The things I read were very encouraging and I decided to come," she said.

She was not at all afraid, despite the warnings her fiends and family gave her. She explained that Yemen is viewed as a dangerous country and especially after the Danish cartoon crises they told her that she should not go to a Muslim country, or at least not say that she was from Denmark. "But we always said we are from Denmark and received nothing but kind words and great hospitality," she recalled.

She had been to some other countries yet she feels Yemen is quite unique. "Maybe Turkey is a little similar in some of its traditional parts, but in Yemen there is a very particular atmosphere, especially surrounding the women as they are quite covered," she said. Grethe hoped to meet women and interact with them openly, but it was difficult since they were in a group and the women were very reserved when it comes to men. Sometimes she found it scary when she could not see the faces of women, but what really affected her was the poverty she saw everywhere she went.

Stine Sulbaek, works as a guard in a women's prison. She found that people are the same everywhere you go. That all they want is happiness and peace.

"Don't let politics influence your attitude towards others," she advised. Stine was impressed by the kind nature and warmth she received from the people she met in Yemen. She had previously been to Oman and Egypt, but Yemen has a special place in her memories. Unfortunately, she could not take photos of the women because they did not allow their photo to be taken. On of the things she noticed is the high level of illiteracy, and how this affects the people's comprehension of, and connection with, the rest of the world. She hoped for Yemen to develop further, and bought a Jambiya and a shawl.

"It was a kind of adventure, and interesting to see a country so different," she said....

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