DRESSING FOR OSCAR.

Byline: Barbara De Witt Daily News Staff Writer

You'll have to excuse Hollywood for getting in a tizzy. After all, Oscar night is the biggest fashion show in the world.

And it has a billion armchair critics, so clothes do count.

Bette Davis learned the hard way. In 1936, she wore an expensive housedress that the press ripped to shreds - in print, at least - but she learned from it and came back with glamorous feathers to rave reviews.

After a few mishaps, like the time Marlene Dietrich had so many people staring at the high slit in her Dior gown that nobody paid attention to the award she was presenting for Best Foreign Language Film, the academy hired costume designer Edith Head as its fashion consultant. The job wasn't easy, and sometimes stars rebelled and made their way on stage in such fashion no-nos as miniskirts.

The current fashion police chief is Fred Hayman, the dapper designer and creator of Giorgio Beverly Hills perfume. Rather than dictate, Hayman takes a gentler approach, offering an annual fashion preview so busy actors can see what's new in gowns and tuxedos.

This year's preview included satin columns, ball gowns with tulle skirts, marabou feather coats and stoles, and plenty of pretty pastels, predicting a return to the taste and elegance of Hollywood legends such as Audrey Hepburn, Grace Kelly and Carole Lombard.

Speaking of old Hollywood, Hayman thinks Geena Davis, who is often dressed by her friend Bill Hargate, personifies the look. "Whatever she wears, she's always memorable," he said.

While Davis isn't known for following trends, according to Hayman, "Glamour is back, and with it a trend to go to a designer for an entire look, rather than dressing oneself. They get so many proposals that competition is fierce, and many send letters offering free gowns. For instance, Uma Thurman really benefited from Prada last year. Sure, the designer benefited, too, but they made her look magnificent."

Now that Prada has loosened Armani's hold on Oscar night, others are trying to elbow their way up to the podium, including "Unzipped" star Isaac Mizrahi, Badgley Mischka, Dolce & Gabbana, John Galliano, John Anthony, Escada, Gucci, Thierry Mugler and Herve Leger.

Although Hayman knows what almost all the nominees will be wearing to the Oscars on March 25, he never tells in advance. He wants viewers to be surprised - and besides, some stars have changed their minds at the last moment, he said.

Patty Fox, author of "Star Style: Hollywood Legends as Fashion Icons" (Angel City Press; $23.95) and assistant to Hayman, is sympathetic to the stars' dilemma. "Many actors say choosing a gown for the Oscars is their most difficult decision to make, especially if they win, since that photo goes down in history, often dredged up as examples of fashion faux pas," Fox said.

Some, such as Lucille Ball, downplayed their Oscar attire to be safe from ridicule, yet others have been known to treat it like war and map out an attack strategy. According to Fox, Doris Day was dressed by the studio to appear like "the girl next door," which meant taping her breasts so she wouldn't look so voluptuous. Other stars, like Dietrich, called the academy in advance to find out which side of the stage she'd be entering from to ensure her dress - and her legs - looked their best.

Marilyn Monroe had a few fashion tricks of her own. "She always wore gold and white to enhance her blond hair and create a golden-girl aura ... and she was known to utilize the studio costume department and have gowns sewn onto her to best flatter her curves before she went to the Oscars," said Fox.

But nobody worked as hard on her appearance as Joan Crawford. Said Fox, "In 1945 when Crawford won an Oscar for her role in 'Mildred Pierce,' she was sick in bed with the flu, but when she got a call that she'd won, she quickly prepped and primped and slipped into her best silk bed jacket for the delivery of the coveted Oscar to her bedside. And the photos looked great."

Of course, no one could look as great as Elizabeth Taylor did in 1957 when she wore a $25,000 tiara to prove she was the queen of filmdom.

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PHOTO

Photo (1-2) Demi Moore, left, known for revealing all, would be the kind who might attend the Oscars in this frothy Cinderella gown, above. The outfit, designed by John Anthony with a Debra Moises shawl, was part of a sneak preview at the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences in Beverly Hills. But fashion coordinator Fred Hayman is mum on who's wearing what, so you'll just have to wait until Monday night. (3-4) Come Oscar night, Geena Davis, right, could slip into this glam gown by Thierry Mugler, above. But she usually takes her fashion ideas to "Murphy Brown" costumer Bill Hargate. (5) Candice Bergen in Donna Karan Overhang. (6) Goldie Hawn Left home without her Wonderbra. (7) Kim Basinger Receives the perfect fit award. (8) Jodie Foster Don't even think of waving to the fans. (9-14) Oscar flashbacks (9) 1935 Bette Davis suits up with Victor McLaglen. (10) 1955 Marlon Brando and Bette (Bad Hair Day) Davis. (11) 1960 Elizabeth Taylor in a demure Dior gown. (12) 1974 Cher (yow!), Marvin Hamlisch and Debbie Reynolds. (13) 1977 Diane Keaton, left, ignored the dress code; Janet Gaynor didn't. (14) 1993 Jodie Foster shines in an Armani pantsuit.