DON'T DENY YOURSELF THIS HOLIDAY SEASON; LOW-FAT BAKED GOODS FOR INDULGING AND GIVING.

Byline: Natalie Haughton Daily News Food Editor

Calabasas resident and restaurateur Nancy Fox is obsessed with healthy, low-fat sweets these days. She believes in indulging in goodies, but they must be relatively guilt-free and taste good - and now she is sharing her ideas in her new cookbook, ``Nancy's Healthy Kitchen Baking Book,'' (Macmillan; $25).

But it hasn't always been that way. From 1980 to 1990, with her sister, Lisa, she co-founded and owned Mrs. Beaseley's, a bakery and gift company in Tarzana that specialized in homemade-tasting, sinfully rich baked muffins, cookies, brownies, cakes and the like made with real butter, plenty of sugar, eggs, chocolate, etc.

``If I am going to splurge, I'm going to splurge on desserts,'' noted Fox, an avowed dessert fancier. ``Chocolate and desserts are my passion.''

However, after the sale of the bakery in 1990, Fox, wanting to keep her trim figure - and because of her health concerns for her husband, Allen (his father died of a heart attack at age 37, and his family has a history of early heart disease) - turned her attention to figuring out ways to make lower-fat, lower-calorie goodies that tasted delicious. ``I was addicted to rich-tasting desserts, but it was becoming clear that cutting fat and calories made sense,'' she said.

Taste was a major factor in all her reduced-fat creations because most low-fat or fat-free goodies are rubbery, flavorless and don't satisfy those with a sweet tooth, she noted. She had three family tasters at hand to give opinions on her recipes - her husband and two sons, Charlie, 7-1/2 and Evan, 13. ``Many of my tests went down the garbage disposal,'' she said laughing. They just didn't pass muster.

It took Fox six months of daily testing to develop the book's 180 recipes. Some are based on ideas used and sold in her Nancy's Healthy Kitchen restaurants, co-owned and operated with her husband (the Encino location opened in 1994; the Beverly Hills location this year and another is scheduled to open in Brentwood early next year) while others are simply new creations - including nonbaked candies and sweetened popcorns - she developed for the book.

Most of the book's recipes are not complicated, and several are easy enough for children to make. And even though the book promises recipes for baking, it was surprising to find recipes thrown in for milkshakes and other drinks, as well as sorbets and candies that adhere to the low-fat parameters.

``Allen worked as hard as I did on the book,'' noted Fox. He tasted and wrote the descriptions of the food in addition to handling all the computer details and figuring out the nutritional analysis, which includes calories and fat grams per serving for each recipe.

``Now I don't feel like I have to splurge on high-fat desserts because my low-fat desserts are so satisfying,'' said Fox.

``Because I have taken my favorite desserts - Chocolate Fudge Decadence, Snickerdoodles, Vanilla Meringue Cookies, Vanilla Malt Cookies, Fruit Cocktail Snack Cake, Divine Mocha Layer Cake, Cheese-Filled Bundt, Superfudgy Brownies, Poppy Seed Sugar Cookies, Butterscotch Pillows, Cinnamon Marshmallow Puffs and Apple Pie Cheesecake - and reduced the fat, I can eat them every day now (of course, not all of them in the same day).''

Among her favorite desserts are chocolate chip cookies, fudgy brownies, snickerdoodles and chocolate lemon cake.

But the goodies come with a warning: ``Don't confuse low-fat or fat-free with calorie-free,'' stressed Fox, adding that such goodies shouldn't give consumers the signal to eat twice as much.

Fox's crisp chocolate fudge and crunch cookies (as well as oatmeal raisin, sugar, poppy seed, vanilla crunch), which she sells at the restaurant and wholesales to other stores, are fabulous.

``People are always surprised at how good the cookies are,'' added Fox.

You may be also be surprised at how delicious some of the cookies and other desserts made from recipes in her book are. After sampling several baked items, a team of tasters was impressed with the excellent taste and texture.

``I think we've give a good name to low-fat cookies and desserts,'' said Fox.

Fox is also now selling her low-fat refrigerated dressings - including Ranch, Creamy Italian, Thousand Island and Sesame Ginger - at her restaurants and selected supermarkets. Perhaps some of these recipes will make their way into her next cookbook - which she is working on now, and which will include items served at her restaurants.

And Fox follows her own advice.

``I eat, drink and sleep the healthy, low-fat lifestyle,'' she said, ``and I don't feel deprived. I don't enjoy rich-tasting food anymore - and I don't like to order desserts at restaurants now. I really do practice what I preach - I eat my cooking at the restaurants and at home.''

She also exercises daily, running four to five miles and walking with her husband as well as lifting weights three days a week to stay in shape.

About the restaurant business which she finds challenging and rewarding, Fox volunteered, ``I never thought it was going to be as hard as it is.''

Fox has a bag of ingredient favorites and tricks that she relies on to reduce fat and calories in her baked goods. Keep them in mind if you're trying to reduce the fat and calories in some of your own holiday favorites, but don't try them out on a special occasion.

Also remember, noted Fox, that ``cooking is a lot more forgiving than baking,'' so you might want to give her tested recipes a try before experimenting on your own.

``Smart Beat margarine, which is predominantly water, is one of my best finds for low-fat baking,'' noted Fox. Although the package doesn't promote or advocate the product for baking, Fox often combines it with other sources of fat for proper taste and texture. It has only two grams of fat per tablespoon and contains no saturated fat, she added. Other times, Fox uses reduced-fat margarine or regular corn oil margarine, so note carefully what is called for in her recipes that follow and for best results, DO NOT substitute. Smart Beat works well for cookie crusts and soft cookies, said Fox. However, for crisp cookies, she uses corn oil margarine and a little water.

Fox also uses applesauce rather than prune puree as a replacement for fat because it adds moisture to baked goods without adding an unpleasant taste.

Corn syrup is another fat replacement used by Fox in small amounts - it assists with moisture retention in baked goods and helps increase shelf life.

Fox's recipes mostly call for egg whites rather than whole eggs. Generally figure that two large egg whites can be used to replace one whole egg. If you're purchasing liquid egg whites to use in recipes, note that four egg whites equal about 1/2 cup; one egg white is about 1/8 cup. Avoid using egg whites excessively, as they can make baked goods taste dry.

Cocoa, which has less than 1 gram of fat per tablespoon and is sodium and cholesterol-free, is a great chocolate flavoring for low-fat desserts, advised Fox. She recommends using Dutch-processed cocoa for best results.

Since nuts are laden with fat, Fox uses them judiciously. Instead, she favors using cereals - oats, Grape-Nuts and Rice Krispies - for texture and flavor in her recipes.

Fox finds the relatively new fat-free sweetened condensed milk a boon to her low-fat baking because it provides a rich, milky taste and texture.

Low-fat and fat-free sour creams are good options in low-fat desserts, said Fox. However, she advised using fat-free sour cream only when the dessert is not baked. For a dessert that requires baking, low-fat sour cream is preferred for best results.

Fox combines low-fat cream cheese with fat-free cream cheese in recipes for best taste. Fat-free cream cheese doesn't taste good when used alone in recipes, she warned.

When Fox reduces the fat in recipes, she does not increase the sugar to compensate for less fat as many others do.

Fox also noted that there are many good fat-free and low-fat convenience foods available - including low-fat Oreo cookies and low-fat vanilla sandwich cookies.

Some of Fox's creations from her new book follow. Try them for holiday indulging or pack them up as gifts from your kitchen. They all embody Fox's philosophy that ``everything must taste as good or better than the high-fat version.'' See if you agree.

BANANA BREAD

The key to an exceptional banana bread is to use overripe bananas, which make the bread soft and moist.

3 very ripe bananas

1 cup sugar

2 egg whites

1/4 cup Smart Beat margarine, melted

1 1/2 cups flour

1 teaspoon baking soda 

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon vanilla

1/4 cup Grape-Nuts

Coat an 8 1/2-inch loaf pan with nonstick spray and set aside.

In a large bowl, mash bananas. Add sugar and blend until smooth. Stir in egg whites and margarine. Add flour, baking soda, salt and vanilla and beat until smooth. Fold in Grape-Nuts.

Turn into prepared pan. Bake in preheated 325-degree oven 65 to 75 minutes or until a toothpick inserted into center comes out clean. Cool 5 minutes and remove from pan. Makes 12 servings.

Each serving contains 166 calories and 1 gram fat.

CHOCOLATE FUDGE DECADENCE

This cookie does not look nearly as rich as it is. The secret of the fudgy taste is rich Dutch cocoa - and lots of it. Almost half of the flour is replaced with cocoa. High-fat versions of this recipe call for nuts. The secret here is Rice Krispies as a replacement. These cookies have a light, crunchy texture.

3/4 cup sifted flour

3/4 cup unsweetened Dutch cocoa powder 

1 teaspoon baking soda

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/2 cup (1 stick) corn oil margarine, softened

3 tablespoons water

3/4 cup packed dark brown sugar

3/4 cup granulated sugar 

2 egg whites

1 teaspoon vanilla

1 1/2 cups Rice Krispies

Line a cookie sheet with parchment paper or coat with nonstick spray and set aside.

Sift together flour, cocoa, baking soda and cinnamon and set aside.

Cream margarine, water and both sugars about 2 minutes or until smooth. Mix in egg whites and vanilla. Add dry ingredients and blend well. Stir in Rice Krispies until well-mixed. Cover and refrigerate at least 1 hour or until firm.

Place rounded 1/2 teaspoonfuls of dough on prepared cookie sheet, about 4 across and 6 down.

Bake in preheated 350-degree oven 14 to 16 minutes or until set. Cookies will become crispy when cooled. Repeat with remaining dough until used up. Makes 112 cookies.

Each cookie contains 24 calories and 0.9 grams fat.

LEMON-POPPY SEED BUNDT CAKE

This scrumptious cake is quick to make (and even quicker to disappear) and super-moist. The robust tang of fresh lemons from the glaze adds to the delicate crunch of the poppy seeds.

CAKE:

1 package (18.25 ounces) lemon cake mix with pudding included

1 cup water

1/3 cup unsweetened applesauce

1 tablespoon lemon juice

4 egg whites

2 tablespoons poppy seeds

GLAZE:

1 cup powdered sugar

1 tablespoon lemon juice

1 tablespoon nonfat milk

2 to 3 drops yellow food coloring

Coat a 12-cup bundt pan with nonstick spray and set aside.

For Cake, in a large bowl, combine cake mix, water, applesauce, lemon juice, egg whites and poppy seeds and stir until moistened. Beat 2 minutes at high speed.

Turn batter into prepared pan. Bake in preheated 350-degree oven 55 to 60 minutes or until a toothpick inserted into cake comes out clean. Cool 10 minutes, remove from pan and set aside to cool completely.

To make Glaze, in a small bowl, combine powdered sugar, lemon juice, milk and food coloring. Blend until smooth. Drizzle glaze over top of cooled cake. Makes 12 servings.

Each serving contains 238 calories and 5.6 grams fat.

SUPERFUDGY BROWNIES

It is amazing how the slight amount of canola oil moisturized by the corn syrup and applesauce can make these brownies fudgy and gooey beyond all expectations.

2 egg whites

2 teaspoons canola oil

2 teaspoons vanilla

2 tablespoons corn syrup

1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons unsweetened applesauce

1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons granulated sugar

1/2 cup packed dark brown sugar

2/3 cup flour

1/2 cup plus 3 tablespoons unsweetened Dutch cocoa powder

1/2 teaspoon baking powder

1 tablespoon powdered sugar for topping

In a bowl, combine egg whites, canola oil, vanilla, corn syrup and applesauce with a hand mixer. Add granulated and brown sugars and mix. Add flour, cocoa and baking powder and mix until smooth.

Coat an 8x8-inch baking pan with nonstick spray and pour in batter.

Bake in preheated 350-degree oven about 18 to 20 minutes. (The key to this brownie is in the baking. It must be slightly underbaked to give it super-rich fudgy flavor and consistency. Bake only until outside of brownie becomes firm. Inside must still be soft and slightly raw. Overbaking will change brownie entirely by causing it to become dry and cakelike.)

Cool and cut brownie into squares. Sprinkle top with powdered sugar. Makes 16 brownies.

Each brownie contains 103 calories and 1.1 grams fat.

APPLE PIE OR CHERRY CHEESECAKE

CRUST:

1 1/4 cups graham cracker crumbs 

2 tablespoons Smart Beat margarine

1 tablespoon sugar

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

FILLING:

1 package (8 ounces) low-fat cream cheese

1 package (8 ounces) fat-free cream cheese

2 egg whites

1 egg

1 cup sugar

1/2 cup light sour cream

2 teaspoons vanilla

1 teaspoon lemon juice

TOPPING:

1 1/2 cups canned apple OR cherry pie filling

2 tablespoons sugar

2 teaspoons ground cinnamon (do not use cinnamon if using cherry pie filling)

Coat a 9-inch springform pan with nonstick spray.

To make Crust, in a medium bowl, combine graham crackers, Smart Beat margarine, sugar and cinnamon. Press into bottom of springform pan. Set aside.

To make Filling, in a large bowl, beat both cream cheeses until smooth. Mix in egg whites, egg and sugar. Mix in sour cream, vanilla and lemon juice. Pour mixture over crust and spread evenly.

Bake in preheated 350-degree oven 35 minutes or until center is set. Cool completely. Refrigerate at least 5 hours.

To make Topping, in a small bowl, combine apple pie filling, sugar and cinnamon (do not use cinnamon if you are using cherry pie filling) using a rubber spatula. Mix to blend. Spread over top of cold cheesecake. Store in refrigerator until ready to serve. Makes 12 servings.

Each serving contains 233 calories and 6.5 grams fat.

APRICOT JEWELS

This recipe is simple to make and easy to clean up afterward because you use cake mix as a base, there are only a handful of ingredients, and there is no mixing. I like Duncan Hines cake mix best, but Betty Crocker runs a close second and is a little lower in fat.

1/4 cup Smart Beat margarine

1 1/4 cups yellow cake mix (dry)

3/4 cup light apricot preserves

1/2 cup uncooked rolled oats

1 1/2 tablespoons sugar mixed with 1/2 tablespoon ground cinnamon

7 ounces (1/2 can) fat-free sweetened condensed milk

Put Smart Beat margarine into an 8x8-inch pan and melt in preheated 350-degree oven.

Sprinkle cake mix evenly over margarine in pan and pat down with back of a fork or spoon. Spread preserves over cake mix. Sprinkle oats evenly over preserves.

Sprinkle sugar and cinnamon mixture over oats. Drizzle condensed milk evenly over top.

Bake in preheated 350-degree oven 30 to 40 minutes or until top is golden brown. While still warm, cut into 16 squares. Makes 16 bars.

Each bar contains 130 calories and 1.6 grams fat.

BUTTERSCOTCH PILLOWS

This is a good cookie for company because it is so attractive. Rolled in powdered sugar, the cookie cracks a little as it bakes, producing a decorative ``pillow'' look. It is a mixture of textures, soft inside but with the surprising crunch of Rice Krispies. Its potent butterscotch flavor comes from combining margarine with rich, dark brown sugar.

5 tablespoons corn oil margarine (not Smart Beat)

2 tablespoons water

1 cup packed dark brown sugar

2 egg whites

1 teaspoon vanilla

1 1/2 cups flour

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon baking powder

1/4 teaspoon baking soda

1/2 cup Rice Krispies

1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons Powdered sugar for coating

Line a cookie sheet with parchment paper or coat with nonstick spray and set aside.

Cream margarine, water and brown sugar until smooth. Add egg whites and vanilla and mix until smooth. Add flour, salt, baking powder and baking soda and mix until smooth. Fold in Rice Krispies.

Place batter in freezer 15 to 20 minutes or until firm for easier handling.

In a small bowl, place powdered sugar and set aside. Form cookies into rounded 1/2-teaspoon balls and roll in powdered sugar to coat. Place on cookie sheet and slightly flatten with a fork.

Bake in preheated 350-degree oven 12 minutes. Makes 80 cookies.

Each cookie contains 29 calories and .7 grams fat.

POPPY SEED SUGAR COOKIES

You will be surprised how much crunch and nutty flavor one tablespoon of poppy seeds can add to a batch of cookies. Although poppy seeds naturally contain a good deal of fat, so few of them are used in this recipe that they have virtually no effect on the cookie's fat content.

4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) corn oil margarine (not Smart Beat), softened

1 1/2 cups sugar

2 egg whites

1 teaspoon vanilla

1/2 teaspoon almond extract 

1 1/3 cups plus 1 tablespoon flour

1 teaspoon cream of tartar 

1/2 teaspoon baking soda

1/8 teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon poppy seeds

Line a cookie sheet with parchment paper or coat with nonstick spray and set aside.

In a large bowl, cream margarine and 1 cup sugar until smooth. Add egg whites, vanilla and almond extract and mix well. Stir in flour, cream of tartar, baking soda and salt. Fold in poppy seeds and set aside.

To coat, turn remaining 1/2 cup sugar into a small bowl. Spoon dough by rounded 1/2 teaspoonfuls into bowl of sugar and roll until coated. Place 2 inches apart on prepared cookie sheet.

Bake in preheated 350-degree oven 12 to 14 minutes or until light golden. Remove from oven and cool. Cookies will become crispy when cooled. Makes 90 cookies.

Each cookie contains 25 calories and .6 grams fat.

FROZEN MOCHA CREAM PIE 

The consistency of this dessert is unusual. It is that of a thick, slightly gooey, frozen whipped cream. It's not quite solid like ice cream, yet it's substantially heavier than whipped cream. And if you like the flavor of chocolate and strong coffee, this is the pie for you. The deep tan color of the filling contrasts splendidly with the sprinkling of dark chocolate on the top, making an appealing dessert.

CRUST:

2 cups reduced-fat Oreo cookie crumbs (about 20 cookies)

3 tablespoons Smart Beat margarine

FILLING:

4 ounces low-fat cream cheese

4 ounces fat-free cream cheese

1 can (14 ounces) fat-free sweetened condensed milk

2/3 cup fat-free chocolate syrup OR topping (Hershey's Hot Fudge is good)

1 1/2 tablespoons instant coffee dissolved in 1 tablespoon hot water

1 teaspoon vanilla

1 cup frozen nondairy whipped topping, thawed

To make Crust, in a small bowl, mix cookie crumbs and Smart Beat margarine. Set aside 3/4 cup mixture for later use as a topping. Press remaining mixture into bottom of a 9-inch springform pan. Chill in refrigerator.

To make Filling, in a large bowl, beat together cream cheeses until smooth. Beat in sweetened condensed milk, chocolate syrup, coffee mixture and vanilla and mix until smooth. Gently fold in whipped topping by hand.

Spoon filling into chilled crust and sprinkle reserved crust mixture evenly over top. Freeze at least 6 hours until firm. Store, covered, in freezer. Makes 12 servings.

Each serving contains 250 calories and 4.7 grams fat.

NOTE: Recipe filling can be doubled for a thicker pie.

PEANUT BRITTLE

It doesn't take many peanuts to give peanut brittle its characteristic peanut flavor. Since most of this candy's fat is in the peanuts, reducing the peanuts to a minimum helps reduce the total fat content to a respectable level.

1 1/2 teaspoons baking soda

Water

1 teaspoon vanilla

1 1/2 cups sugar

1 cup light corn syrup

3 tablespoons Smart Beat margarine

1/3 cup chopped reduced-fat peanuts (Planters Honey Roasted)

Coat 2 baking sheets with nonstick spray.

In a small bowl, mix baking soda, 1 teaspoon water and vanilla. Set aside.

In a medium saucepan, combine sugar, 1 cup water and corn syrup. Cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the mixture reaches 240 degrees F on a candy thermometer or until a small amount of mixture dropped into very cold water forms a ball that flattens when removed from water.

Stir in margarine and peanuts. Cook, stirring constantly, until the mixture reaches 300 degrees F on a candy thermometer or until a small amount of mixture dropped into very cold water separates into hard, brittle threads. This may take up to 30 minutes. (Be careful not to burn mixture.)

Immediately remove from heat and quickly stir in baking soda mixture until light and foamy.

Pour 1/2 of candy mixture onto each prepared baking sheet and quickly spread to about 1/4-inch thick. Cool and break into pieces. Makes about 20 ounces.

Each ounce contains 114 calories and .6 grams fat.

SUPEREASY MICROWAVE FUDGE

3 3/4 cups powdered sugar

1/2 cup unsweetened Dutch cocoa powder

1/4 cup evaporated skim milk 

2 teaspoons vanilla

1/3 cup Smart Beat margarine

1 1/2 tablespoons semisweet mini M&M baking bits

Line an 8-inch square pan with foil and coat foil with nonstick spray. Set aside.

In a large microwave-safe bowl, sift powdered sugar and cocoa. Stir in milk and vanilla. Top with margarine. Cook in microwave on high power 2 to 3 minutes or until margarine is melted and mixture is smooth and well-mixed when stirred. Spread into prepared pan.

Sprinkle M&Ms evenly over top and press gently into fudge. Refrigerate until firm.

Remove from pan by lifting out foil. Cut into 25 squares. Store in refrigerator. Makes 25 servings.

Each serving contains 83 calories and .8 grams fat.

CAPTION(S):

2 Photos

Photo: (1--color) Nancy Fox presents an array of low-fat creations from her new cookbook. They would make delicious gifts.

(2) Nancy Fox adds the finishing touch to her cheesecake with a crown of cherry pie filling.

Myung J. Chun/Daily News