DOGS TAKE NO RIBBING AT QUINCY'S BBQ.

Byline: Larry Lipson Restaurant Critic

Dog-loving restaurants are few and far between. Enter Quincy's BBQ in Encino with the slogan, "The Best BBQ under One Woof."

Quincy, by the way, is not a person's name. Quincy the dog is no longer with us, but has been honored by the owners of this new barbecue eatery in the Plaza de Oro, previously the site of California Crisp and for many years the location of a well-known deli called Bagel Nosh.

Now the spacious boulevard patio has been dedicated to dog lovers who can feed their canine pets while dining on barbecued ribs and chicken.

Inside, there's more biting than barking going on with a consistent houseful of noisy 'cue fanciers chewing away on sauce-glazed ribs that are promised as slowly cooked on a wood-burning grill.

Quincy's offers three types of ribs - the popular baby back, the St. Louis style and the monster beef rib.

If, as a first-timer, you want to try all three at one time, the menu gives you the opportunity to sample one of each on an appetizer plate for $6.49.

My favorite might surprise some, but it's the St. Louis, which I find is more flavorful, juicier, more tender and flatter (better-looking) here than the rather unkempt baby back and beef versions.

True, the others are about as meaty as you'd want, and barbecue purists might laugh at my cosmetic preference. But I have to admit, in my estimation, during whatever kind of dining experience I'm encountering, neatness always counts.

As for Quincy's house barbecue sauce, though respectable, I think it can be improved on, despite the pronouncement that it will soon be famous.

I simply added an impromptu shot or two of chipotle Tabasco to it out of a bottle provided on every table.

Try it. See if you agree.

However, the sweetish sauce, left untainted, definitely works well as a glaze for Quincy's barbecued chicken.

The chicken generally comes forth moist and tender under a slightly crisped skin and is available for as little as $6.59 per quarter with one side dish.

Speaking of sides, Quincy doesn't hold back on them, presenting a choice of eight, none of which have disappointed.

I tend to opt for such side goodies here as butternut squash and creamed spinach. But 'cue lovers might enjoy more appropriate accompaniments, such as sweet barbecued beans, crisp fries, creamy coleslaw or a hot and yielding baked yam.

A sloppy Q (instead of sloppy Joe) menu category provides such worthwhile sandwich opportunities as a decent pulled pork or brisket of beef ($7.99 each) on country rolls with fries, beans or coleslaw.

And there's also a fair rendition of grilled, sliced tri-tip to be had here in at least three ways: as a sloppy Q sandwich, as a main course with chicken or as part of a multicombo plate with all three ribs.

For starters, Quincy's soups du jour ($3.49 or $4.79), like a creamy clam chowder or a thick split pea, can hit the spot. And an iceberg wedge with blue cheese dressing and crumbles ($4.74) gets tabbed as an especially refreshing beginning.

If there's dessert room, the peach cobbler ($3.99) goes fast here, but a heated apple pie ($4.99) comes in a close second.*

Checking the double p list: Quincy's does have pulled pork, but during two visits I saw no pecan pie.

And yes, it undeniably has its most important double p, its Pooch Patio.

Larry Lipson, [phone]

larry.lipson(at)dailynews.com

QUINCY'S BBQ

Food: Three stars - Service: Three stars - Wine: One star

Where: 17201 Ventura Blvd., Encino; www.quincysbbq.com

Phone: [phone] or [phone].

Meals/hours: Open for lunch from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. daily, for dinner from 5 to 9 p.m. weeknights, from 3 to 10 p.m. weekends.

Food type: American.

Cost: Starters and salads from $2 to $15.99, entrees from $6.49 to $24.49, desserts $4 and $5 each.

Credit cards: AE, MC, V.

Patio dining: Yes. Heated, for both humans and dogs.

Parking/valet: No valet. Free shopping center lot.

Full bar: No. Beer and wine only.

Wine/Corkage: 11-label ($19 to $29) list with eight wines by the glass from $5 to $7.50. Corkage: $7.50.

Music/entertainment: No, but there are three wines carrying the Jerry Garcia label.

Takeout/delivery: Yes on takeout; pending on delivery.

Reservations: Only taken for parties of eight or more.

CAPTION(S):

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Photo:

Executive chef Mindy Lymperis displays a platter of ribs, with all the trimmings, at Quincy's BBQ in Encino, which welcomes pups on the pation.

Joel P. Lugavere/Special to the Daily News