DOG FANS SAVOR CHICAGO.

Byline: Larry Lipson Daily News Restaurant Critic

We know all about Chicago bull and the Bulls, but how much do we know about Chicago beef?

According to Ali Esmail, owner of QT's Chicago Dogs in Reseda and Northridge, 50 percent of his clientele are ex-Chicagoans. He attributes this to the fact that 78 percent of his food items are supplied by Chicago's Vienna Beef company.

Even his buns come from Chicago, he said in a telephone conversation that intrigued me enough to make a couple of anonymous visits to his local hot dog outlets.

While the regular Chicago ``jumbo'' dogs themselves are certainly respectable renditions, and though I would prefer buns that are not as soft - probably better toasted than steamed, but that wouldn't be authentic Chicago-style, would it? - it is the Italian roast beef sandwich ($4.99) I like best.

This is a heartier, more gratifying small meal to me than a hot dog.

Not being that familiar with Chicago fare (I suppose I have a California palate by now, anyway), I really can't tell you how authentic QT's food is.

As for the remaining Chicago food, I thoroughly enjoyed the gyros plate ($4.29), thought the pastrami ($4.99) was a trifle fatty but of decent flavor, and was the least impressed by the supposedly Chicago-invented bagel dog ($2.99).

It wasn't the meat. The bagel seemed a bit too rubbery and chewy. I think that if the bagel part would have been really fresh-tasting, the result would be a much improved sandwich.

For Chicago natives yearning for a reminder of their hometown, both of the QTs are conveniently located shopping center storefronts, somewhat narrow, with counter seating and a table or two. The larger Reseda outlet also has a few outside tables as well as more interior seating.

Vienna Beef has provided posters for the Chicago decor flavor, seemingly especially strong on the famous Maxwell Street there.

These are not places to take your boss to lunch unless he's from Chicago. It's the customary self-service situation where you put your order in at a counter and pick it up yourself when notified.

You just get in line, pal, like the rest of us. QTs are really rather typical fast-food eating places, which means no waiting on tables.

And yep, that's how it is, even if you happen to know Michael Jordan personally.

THE FACTS

The restaurant: QT Chicago Dogs.

Where: 19417-1/2 Victory Blvd., Reseda; 8650 Reseda Blvd., Northridge.

Phone: Reseda: [phone]; Northridge: [phone].

When: Open for snacks and meals from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. weekdays, from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Saturdays, 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. Sundays.

Recommended items: Chicago all-beef hot dogs, Italian sausage dogs, pastrami sandwich, Italian roast beef sandwich, gyros plate or sandwich.

How much: Everything under $5.

Wine list: No alcohol.

Our rating: Three Stars for food.

CAPTION(S):

Photo

Photo: QT Chicago Dogs serves, from left, the Maxwell Street dog, Italian Roast Beef and a Chicago dog.

Gene Blevins/Special to the Daily News