DIWAN COOKS WITH COMFORT FACTOR; FAMILIAR DISHES, NICE SURROUNDINGS ADD TO ENJOYMENT.

Byline: Larry Lipson Restaurant Critic

On a surprisingly quiet stretch of Ventura Boulevard at the western end of Studio City, a new, tastefully furnished restaurant called Diwan has emerged.

From its neat, small streetside patio, the view across the street includes a row of tall, dignified old trees shading a frontage road interspersed with vibrant splashes of white oleander, behind which stand several regal, low-slung residences sporting expansive stretches of lawn.

It's certainly calming on a summer evening, sitting and enjoying a leisurely dinner here. And the experience fits the restaurant's name.

Diwan, explain its owners, is a word (or one similar) in several Eastern languages meaning somewhere or something where one finds group comfort and relaxation, a place of assembly, even a book of poems. The closest English word would be ``divan.''

As for its food, Diwan's menu is a concise compilation of safe and familiar dishes, ones found today on the majority of those menus termed American or New American.

There are the steaks - New York ($16) or filet mignon ($18) - the veal chop ($19), the swordfish ($18), the Chilean sea bass ($18), the rack of lamb ($19), the salmon ($17), the breast of chicken ($14).

Yes, the kitchen makes the obligatory pastas, three of them.

And yes, there are those seemingly absolute necessities on any dinner menu these days: crab cakes ($16.95) and plates utilizing ahi tuna and squid (calamari).

The overall expertise of Diwan's kitchen becomes apparent quickly. There's no question that there's a skillful chef running the show.

Plates of very tasty food come forth utilizing good-quality meats, fish and poultry.

Though unlikely to be stacked in the avant-garde manner and garnished with unnecessary leaves and sprinkles, the dishes appear neat, tidy, reasonably portioned and always correctly cooked.

Soup ($3.50) is a du jour-only situation, usually a vegetable cream puree and relatively intense in flavor, the most recent being an excellent mushroom mixture.

Of the fish offerings, whitefish, perhaps one of the best efforts here, materializes as a substantial entree of moist, flaky pieces of this delicate denizen, sauteed nicely and presented on garlic mashed potatoes with chives and a light beurre-blanc sauce.

And the salmon entree, pepper-crusted, joined by a creamy swirl of mashed potatoes and al dente steamed vegetables, matches the best versions around town.

As for those crab cakes, here it's an extremely expensive appetizer ($16.95) served with Sevruga caviar. There's also a high-ticket shrimp starter dish with sun-dried tomatoes and a green peppercorn sauce ($13.95). Both remain untried, left to those with deeper pockets. But sizzling snails ($9.95), served in the traditional garlic and butter sauce, provide lip-smacking starter satisfaction. Especially when accompanied by a glass of the house Pouilly Fuisse ($6, bottle $20), a true wine bargain.

On the cold side, there's a respectable plate of creamy buffalo-style mozzarella served in thick round slices, angled and alternated with equally thick and round beefsteak tomato slices.

But the pick of the bunch in cool appetizers is the Diwan rendition of an ahi tuna chopped salad ($8.95) with small cubes of delicious tuna sashimi tossed with chopped radicchio and endive in a piquant soy and sesame dressing. It receives our nod as one of the best-tasting beginnings on the boulevard, neighboring Pinot Bistro and Bistro Garden included.

If there's any diversity whatsoever, it shows up in the poultry offerings, with a gratifying version of perfectly cooked quail in port sauce ($18) indicating again there's someone with consummate skill handling these delicate birds in Diwan's kitchen.

The same can be said of a stuffed chicken creation ($17) where the chef flavors his forcemeat stuffing with roasted sweet peppers and asparagus, then utilizes the same vegetables as a worthy accompaniment along with buttery sliced gratin potatoes and a brandy-boosted bordelaise as the rich saucing.

On the meaty end, the house veal chop is as good as they get. Lovely white veal, exquisitely textured, is delectable when dipped into the cherry wine-mustard sauce. On the same plate, a heaping portion of tasty risotto and a grilled beefsteak tomato enhance the enjoyment.

Endings here have included a slightly runny chocolate souffle ($7.25) and rewarding chocolate mousse cake ($5.25). Service is attentive, and the wine list has quality and pricing that matches the food: fair but, for the most part, a little higher than expected.

THE FACTS

The restaurant: Diwan.

Where: 13045 Ventura Blvd., Studio City.

When: Open for dinner from 5:30 to 10 p.m. nightly, to 1 a.m. Friday and Saturday, for brunch from 10:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. Sunday.

Recommended items: Soup du jour, ahi tuna chopped salad, escargots, stuffed chicken, grilled quail, New York steak, veal chop, rack of lamb, sauteed whitefish, pepper-crusted salmon.

How much: Starters and salads from $3.50 to $17, pastas and entrees from $12 to $19, desserts from $5.25 to $7.25. Full bar. Major credit cards.

Wine list: Small 26-label starting list has bottles from $18 to $165, with numerous choices in the $20 range, the best deal being a '97 Pouilly Fuisse at $20. Corkage $10.

Reservations: Helpful. Call [phone].

Our rating: Three and One-half Stars for food; Three and One-half Stars for service; Two and One-half Stars for wine.

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Photo

PHOTO At the new Diwan on Ventura Boulevard in Studio City, chef Tony Rosa's repertoire includes sauteed white fish, left, and a veal chop.

Phil McCarten/Staff Photographer