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DISH IT OUT CASSEROLES MAKE A SERIOUS COMEBACK (AS IF THEY EVER LEFT).


Byline: Natalie Haughton Food Editor

Tamale pie Noun 1. tamale pie - a meat mixture covered with cornbread topping that resembles a Mexican dish
dish - a particular item of prepared food; "she prepared a special dish for dinner"
, tuna noodle casserole, cheese strata. Millions of Americans ate these casseroles or something similar growing up - and many still do.

But they probably won't readily admit it, as some still ridicule the delectable creations.

``Since casseroles first appeared in cookbooks at the turn of the 20th century, they have helped frugal cooks stretch food budgets without cutting back on flavor,'' says Anne Byrn, author of ``The Dinner Doctor'' (Workman; $14.95), who grew up eating casseroles and still serves them twice a week to her family. ``Casseroles are the epitome of the quick, fast-fix, one-dish meal.''

They are flexible and versatile, can be plain or complex, layered or non-layered, rich or bland, made for a few or a crowd, and prepared for all kinds of occasions from family suppers to potlucks, picnics and even more formal buffets, says James Villas, author of ``Crazy for Casseroles: 275 All-American Hot-Dish Classics'' (The Harvard Common Press; $18.95).

Great do-ahead dishes, casseroles can also be refrigerated re·frig·er·ate  
tr.v. re·frig·er·at·ed, re·frig·er·at·ing, re·frig·er·ates
1. To cool or chill (a substance).

2. To preserve (food) by chilling.
 or frozen and are easy to tote.

``You don't have to be embarrassed to serve casseroles,'' says Villas, the former food and wine editor for Town & Country magazine who has written more than a dozen cookbooks.

Casserole refers to both the recipe and dish or container it's cooked in.

``The actual origins of the French word `casserole' can be traced back to a Renaissance pot or crock crock - [American scatologism "crock of shit"] 1. An awkward feature or programming technique that ought to be made cleaner. For example, using small integers to represent error codes without the program interpreting them to the user (as in, for example, Unix "make(1)", which  called a `casse,' '' says Villas.

He considers the casserole an American dish. Casseroles not only define a major style of food but illustrate what authentic regional cooking is all about.

``I don't hesitate a second to insist that nothing typifies American cookery more than the sumptuous, highly varied casseroles that have been baked in ovens all over the country the past century. Despite all the culinary innovations of recent years, not to mention the rampant snobbism that threatens the very integrity of our proud food traditions, casseroles remain one of America's greatest contributions to world gastronomy gastronomy

Art of selecting, preparing, serving, and enjoying fine food. Two early centres of gastronomy were China (from the 5th century BC) and Rome, the latter noted for the excess and ostentation of its banquets.
, an original, sound and eminently simple method of cooking that deserves new attention and will undoubtedly still be around long after much of today's phony novelty has been burned to a crisp.''

There's no doubt that in the '50s and '60s some casseroles were abused by use of certain convenience foods like Velveeta, dried parsley, canned luncheon meats, canned vegetables and the like or by the belief that you could make a casserole by cleaning out the fridge, Villas says.

``The casserole didn't reach sophistication so·phis·ti·cate  
v. so·phis·ti·cat·ed, so·phis·ti·cat·ing, so·phis·ti·cates

v.tr.
1. To cause to become less natural, especially to make less naive and more worldly.

2.
 until the early part of the 20th century, when Campbell's condensed con·dense  
v. con·densed, con·dens·ing, con·dens·es

v.tr.
1. To reduce the volume or compass of.

2. To make more concise; abridge or shorten.

3. Physics
a.
 soups came out and you could substitute them for the sauce.''

Cream of mushroom soup, the casserole soup king, debuted in 1934 and revolutionized casseroles. In some casseroles, including several in his cookbook, the soup is indispensable.

``The truth is that there are some regional American casseroles that simply don't work without them.''

When using soups in casseroles, Byrn advises zipping up the flavor with a little sherry, curry powder curry powder
n.
A pungent seasoning prepared from cumin, coriander, turmeric, and other spices.

Noun 1. curry powder - pungent blend of cumin and ground coriander seed and turmeric and other spices
 or other seasoning.

``Soups are a good binder and backbone, but you have to provide flavor and good, fresh ingredients to go with them.''

The casserole dish is as important as the casserole, says Villas, who owns more than a dozen different ones. It can be earthenware earthenware, form of pottery fired at relatively low temperatures, so that the clay does not vitrify (become glassy), as do stoneware and porcelain clays. Occasionally, earthenware is used as a general term for all kinds of pottery. , glass, cast iron, steel, copper, etc., in various sizes, shapes and designs.

About half of of the 275 recipes in Villas' book are classic casseroles and old favorites, from appetizers to desserts. The other half are modern, inspired creations using the rich bounty of fashionable, fresh foodstuffs foodstuffs nplcomestibles mpl

foodstuffs npldenrées fpl alimentaires

foodstuffs food npl
 like ethnic sausages, fresh cheeses, root vegetables, new varieties of beans and wild mushrooms, baby leeks, sugar snap peas, interesting herbs and spices, and a few exotic fruits.

There are lots of tempting-sounding possibilities, each accompanied by a description, some including historical notes.

If you've forgotten what a wonderful casserole tastes like, give these ideas a whirl.

Natalie Haughton, (818) 713-3692

natalie.haughton(at)dailynews.com

BEEFY beefy, beefyness

1. in dog conformation, used to describe overdevelopment of musculature in the hindquarters.

2. in cattle, used to designate the desirable physical conformation of a beef animal, but an undesirable character in dairy cattle.
 MEXICAN LASAGNA

(On the cover) 1 1/2 pounds ground beef sirloin

9 corn tortillas

2 (10-ounce) cans mild enchilada sauce

1 (15-ounce) can black beans, rinsed and drained

1 1/2 cups frozen corn

1 teaspoon ground cumin cumin or cummin (both: kŭm`ĭn), low annual herb (Cuminum cyminum) of the family Umbelliferae (parsley family), long cultivated in the Old World for the aromatic seedlike fruits.  

1 1/2 cups shredded Mexican cheese blend

Crunchy Tortilla Strips (optional)

1/2 cup chopped tomatoes

2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro

Brown ground beef in large nonstick non·stick  
adj.
Permitting easy removal of adherent food particles: a frying pan with a nonstick surface.


nonstick
Adjective
 skillet over medium heat 8 to 10 minutes or until beef is not pink, breaking up into crumbles. Pour off drippings. Stir in 1 can enchilada sauce, black beans, corn and cumin; bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer 5 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Spray a 11 3/4 x 7 1/2-inch baking dish with nonstick cooking spray Cooking spray is a spray form of various types of oils, combined with lecithin, an emulsifier, and a propellent such as food-grade alcohol, nitrous oxide, carbon dioxide or propane. Cooking spray is applied to frying pans and other cookware to prevent food from sticking. . Arrange 3 tortillas in dish, cutting 1 as needed as needed prn. See prn order.  to cover bottom. Spread 1/4 cup remaining enchilada sauce over tortillas; cover with 1/3 of beef mixture, then 1/2 cup cheese. Repeat layers twice, omitting final cheese layer. Pour remaining enchilada sauce over top.

Cover with nonstick foil. Bake in preheated 350-degree oven 30 minutes. Remove foil; sprinkle with remaining 1/2 cup cheese. Bake, uncovered, 5 minutes or until cheese is melted. Top with Crispy Tortilla Strips, if desired, tomatoes and cilantro. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

CRUNCHY TORTILLA STRIPS: Cut 1 corn tortilla in half, then crosswise into 1/4-inch wide strips. Place strips in a single layer on a baking sheet baking sheet
n.
A flat rectangular metal pan, often with at least one rolled-up edge, used for baking.
. Spray lightly with nonstick cooking spray. Bake in preheated 400-degree oven 4 to 8 minutes or until crisp.

EASY PASTA BAKE

1/2 pound ground beef

1/4 cup chopped onions

1 clove garlic, minced

Salt and pepper
For the American R&B and hip hop group, see Salt-N-Pepa.
For the seasonings, see Edible salt and Black pepper.
For the type of noise, see Salt and pepper noise.
 

1 3/4 cups prepared pasta sauce, any flavor

1/4 cup water

1/2 of a 9-ounce package cheese- OR vegetable-filled refrigerated tortellini OR ravioli

1/4 cup shredded Italian cheese blend

Chopped fresh parsley (optional)

Brown ground beef with onions and garlic in large nonstick skillet over medium heat 8 to 10 minutes or until beef is no longer pink, breaking up into 3/4-inch crumbles. Pour off drippings; season with salt and pepper, as desired. Stir in pasta sauce and water.

Spray 2 (2-cup) baking dishes with nonstick cooking spray. Arrange uncooked pasta evenly on bottom of each baking dish, dividing evenly. Spoon beef mixture evenly over pasta; sprinkle cheese evenly over beef mixture. Cover baking dishes with nonstick foil. Bake in preheated 350- degree oven 30 minutes. Uncover and bake an additional 5 minutes. Sprinkle with parsley. Makes 2 servings.

NOTE: To serve four, double ingredients and prepare according to according to
prep.
1. As stated or indicated by; on the authority of: according to historians.

2. In keeping with: according to instructions.

3.
 recipe directions above using one 8x8-inch baking dish.

HAM 'N' MACARONI macaroni: see pasta.  TWISTS

2 cups uncooked rotini pasta

1 (10 3/4-ounce) can condensed cream of celery soup

1 cup milk

1 1/2 cups cubed cooked ham

1 (10-ounce) package frozen chopped broccoli, thawed

1 cup shredded Cheddar cheese

1 1/3 cups french fried onions (from a can)

Cook pasta according to package direction using shortest cooking time; drain. Keep hot. Combine soup and milk in a microwave-safe 8x12-inch baking dish. Stir in hot pasta, ham, broccoli, cheese and 2/3 cup onions. Cover loosely with plastic wrap. Microwave on high power 10 minutes or until heated through, stirring halfway through cooking time. Top with remaining 2/3 cup onions. Microwave, uncovered, on high power 1 minute or until onions are hot. Makes 4 servings.

COUNTRY SHORT RIBS short ribs
pl.n.
The rib ends of beef between the rib roast and the plate.

Noun 1. short ribs - cut of beef containing rib ends near the sternum
cut of beef - cut of meat from beef cattle
 OF BEEF

If I were forced to name the one casserole I couldn't live without, it would have to be this one, which has been in my Southern family for at least three generations.

6 meaty short ribs of beef (at least 4 inches wide and 3 inches thick)

Salt and black pepper black pepper
 or pepper

Perennial, woody climbing vine (Piper nigrum) of the family Piperaceae, native to India; also, the hotly pungent spice made from its berries.
 to taste

12 small onions, scored on the root ends

10 small red potatoes, peeled

1 (16-ounce) can whole tomatoes, undrained

Beef broth Noun 1. beef broth - a stock made with beef
beef stock

broth, stock - liquid in which meat and vegetables are simmered; used as a basis for e.g. soups or sauces; "she made gravy with a base of beef stock"
, if necessary

Place short ribs in a large pot with enough water to cover and season with salt and pepper. Bring to a boil and skim off any scum that comes to the surface. Reduce heat to low, cover and simmer at least 3 hours, adding more water if necessary to cover. During last hour of simmering, add onions. During last 30 minutes, add potatoes.

With a slotted spoon, transfer meat to a shallow 2- to 2 1/2-quart casserole, place onions and potatoes around the meat, then add tomatoes with their juices. If the juice does not fill the casserole by about three-quarters, add a little beef broth. Season with salt and pepper. Bake in preheated 375-degree oven about 45 minutes, until top is slightly crusted. Makes 6 servings.

From ``Crazy for Casseroles,'' by James Villas.

CURRIED CHICKEN AND ARTICHOKE artichoke, name for two different plants of the family Asteraceae (aster family), both having edible parts. The French, or globe, artichoke (Cynara scolymus  CASSEROLE

4 cups shredded cooked chicken

1 (14-ounce) can artichoke hearts, drained and quartered

1 (8-ounce) can sliced water chestnuts, drained

1 (7-ounce) can mushroom pieces, drained

1 (10 3/4-ounce) can condensed cream of chicken soup chicken soup Chicken broth Folk medicine Jewish penicillin A fowl broth with a long tradition as a home remedy for URIs, which may be a nasal decongestant, inhibit growth of pneumococci in vitro, and stimulate immune responsiveness in WBCs Mainstream medicine A  

1 cup sour cream

1/2 cup mayonnaise

1 teaspoon curry powder

1/4 cup chopped pecans OR slivered almonds

Place chicken, artichoke hearts, water chestnuts, mushrooms, undiluted chicken soup, sour cream, mayonnaise and curry powder in a large mixing bowl and stir until well-blended. Transfer mixture to a 13x9-inch (3-quart) glass or ceramic baking dish and scatter nuts over top.

Bake, uncovered, in a preheated 400-degree oven, about 32 to 35 minutes, until casserole is bubbling throughout and nuts are toasted. Remove from oven and serve at once. Serve with hot cooked basmati Basmati (Hindi: बासमती, IAST:  or jasmine rice. Makes 8 servings.

From ``The Dinner Doctor,'' by Anne Byrn.

CAPTION(S):

3 photos

Photo:

(1 -- cover -- color) BEEFY MEXICAN LASAGNA

(2 -- color) Easy Pasta Bake

(3 -- color) HAM 'N' MACARONI TWISTS
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No portion of this article can be reproduced without the express written permission from the copyright holder.
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Publication:Daily News (Los Angeles, CA)
Article Type:Recipe
Date:Apr 14, 2004
Words:1616
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