DINING BEAT PLAYING MUSICAL CHEFS.

Byline: With Larry Lipson

San Fernando Valley native Stefano Sampson is the new chef at Piero Selvaggio's Posto, 14928 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks.

The announcement is concurrent with Selvaggio's notification that he's giving up his West Los Angeles trattoria Primi on June 1.

The sale leaves Selvaggio with his flagship Valentino in Santa Monica; the new Valentino in Las Vegas, where Sampson was most recently sous chef; and Posto.

Sampson was discovered in New York by Selvaggio, who arranged for the culinary school graduate to hone his skills at the Michelin three-star Dal Pescatore restaurant in Canneto Sul'Oglio under the supervision of famed Italian chef Nadia Santini.

Meanwhile, Selvaggio will be honored June 13 in San Francisco at Cucina Italia 2000 as ``one of America's contemporary culinary heroes,'' at a benefit dinner for the James Beard Foundation at Splendido restaurant.

Posto reservations: [phone]. Valentino reservations: [phone].

Keeping it all in the family

Following in the footsteps is hardly the case with Hugo Veltman, chef- owner of Solstice, 7313 Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles, whose father is this year's Nobel Prize winner in physics.

But it certainly is with David and Dannel Arnold, owners of Arnie's Pizza, 8539 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood. Their late writer-producer father, Danny Arnold, created television's ``Barney Miller'' series. They, too, are writer-producers.

Solstice reservations: [phone]. Arnie's phone: [phone].

The sweet taste of success

This year the public is invited for the first time to taste award winners in the Los Angeles County Fair's Wine Competition immediately following the actual judging.

On Saturday, a day after the three days of judging ends, a fund-raising tasting of the award-winning wines will take place from 6 to 10 p.m. at Fairplex, 1101 W. McKinley Ave., Pomona.

Tickets are $50 and are available by advance purchase only. Call [phone].

Proceeds from the event will benefit the Education Foundation at Fairplex.

Napkin notes

Steak, lobster and martinis spell Palm at 9001 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood. The 25-year-old show-biz haunt vaults into the wine-dinner circuit with a Joseph Phelps wine dinner June 26 and, not forgetting its heritage, an Absolut vodka martini dinner event Monday. Tab for each is $90. Details: [phone]. ... The French chefs' group, Club Culinaire Francais, holds its annual outdoor bash at Vasa Park in Agoura Hills on June 4. If you're interested in mingling and partying with these local stove stars, call [phone] for tickets and information. ... Pooch's, a Redondo Beach restaurant known for its fresh fish fare by chef Tim McLean and a bar pouring 40 different vodkas, now adds to name value with appropriate service to the canine set. A ``doggie delights'' menu is being offered on the patio to canine companions of dining customers. Information: [phone].