DINING BEAT NEW CHEFS TAKE CHARGE.Byline: Larry Lipson Does a change in chefs mean a change in the food? Most experts say it does. Which means, of course, that it could be better, worse, or about the same in quality, even if there are different dishes on the menu. Which brings us to the news that new chefs have taken up kitchen duties at the Sheraton-Universal Hotel in Universal City, home of the California restaurant; at Trader Vic's, the venerable Polynesian-Asian landmark dinery at the Beverly Hilton Hotel in Beverly Hills Beverly Hills, city (1990 pop. 31,971), Los Angeles co., S Calif., completely surrounded by the city of Los Angeles; inc. 1914. The largely residential city is home to many motion-picture and television personalities. ; and at Celestino Italian Steakhouse in West Hollywood. Roger Gamboa, recently at L.A.'s Hotel Nikko (now Le Meridian), is the new executive chef at the Sheraton-Universal, 333 Universal Terrace Parkway, Universal City, where his new executive sous chef is Benjamin Paula. Both are expert ice carvers. Information and reservations: (818) 980-1212. To Trader Vic's, 9876 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills, comes new head chef Darren Brown, whose previous job was chef on the Griff n. 1. Grasp; reach. A vein of gold ore within one spade's griff. - Holland. 2. (Weaving) An arrangement of parallel bars for lifting the hooked wires which raise the warp threads in a loom for weaving figured goods. , Beverly Hilton owner Merv Griffin's 164-foot yacht. Griffin brought Brown to terra firma, where he has added oven-smoked barbecued lobster, a swordfish swordfish, large food and game fish, Xiphias gladius, of the warmer Atlantic and Pacific waters, related to the sailfish. It is named for its sharp, broad, elongated upper jaw, which it uses to flail and pierce its prey of smaller fish, rising beneath a school and mango roll and a tropical-style tiramisu tir·a·mi·su n. A dessert of cake infused with a liquid such as coffee or rum, layered with a rich cheese filling, and topped with grated chocolate. . Brown also reinstated old Trader Vic's favorites like Indonesian lamb, peachblossom duck and rumaki ru·ma·ki n. pl. ru·ma·kis An appetizer of Japanese origin consisting of a marinated piece of chicken liver and a water chestnut wrapped in a slice of bacon and grilled or broiled. . Information and reservations: (310) 276-6345. Meanwhile, restaurateur res·tau·ra·teur also res·tau·ran·teur n. The manager or owner of a restaurant. [French, from restaurer, to restore; see restaurant. Celestino Drago has named Mirko Paderno, former Valentino sous chef as the chef de cuisine at his Celestino steakery, 8908 Beverly Blvd., West Hollywood, which recently initiated weekday lunch service. Paderno, too, is an expert at ice carving as well as food sculpture. Information and reservations: (310) 858-5777. NAPKIN NOTES: Look for free beignets on Wednesdays and free Cajun hot wings Mondays at Mardi Gras, 10151 Riverside Drive, Toluca Lake, (818) 761-4243 ... Iron skillet-cooked Indian Balti balti Noun a spicy Indian dish served in a metal dish [probably from the Baltistan region of Pakistan] dishes, the rage of Britain, are now available at Mumtaz, 7166 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles, (323) 933-2945 ... Happy 20th year to Fabrocini's Italian Kitchen, 18608 Ventura Blvd., Tarzana, (818) 342-4490, also in Bel-Air and Agoura ... From Rome's Jewish ghetto comes carciofi alla Judea, whole fried artichokes ($8.95), one of this month's Lazio region specialties offered through Dec. 16 at the Il Fornaio nearest you (locations in Beverly Hills, Pasadena, Santa Monica and Manhattan Beach). |
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