DINING BEAT FOR FATHERLY APPETITES.

Byline: Larry Lipson Restaurant Critic

Whether Dad is a meat-and-potatoes man or prefers a bounteous brunch, there are certainly plenty of opportunities to please him at a local restaurant on Sunday.

Sisley Italian Kitchen, for example, offers at its four locations (Sherman Oaks, Valencia, Thousand Oaks and West Los Angeles) such all-day specials as a double-cut pork chop with Red Bliss mashers and yellow squash ($17.95), scampi on sun-dried tomato angel hair pasta ($18.95) and apple walnut chicken with grilled sweet potato, roasted fennel and jicama salad ($16.95).

Information: [phone] (Thousand Oaks).

For filet mignon en brioche a la perigourdine (pastry-wrapped steak with truffle sauce) five-course dinner ($16.95) try Taix, the venerable country French restaurant (4 to 9 p.m.) at 1911 Sunset Blvd. [phone].

More steaks (culotte, ribeye, New York strip, chopped sirloin) and other dishes are available (from 11 a.m.) at the Steak Joynt, 4354 Lankershim Blvd., North Hollywood. Reservations: [phone].

Classy, expensive brunches at the Belvedere in the Peninsula Hotel, 9882 Santa Monica Blvd., Beverly Hills, [phone], ($54 and $65) and at Le Festival in Le Meridien Hotel, 465 S. La Cienega Blvd., Los Angeles, [phone], ($48) should impress him.

And there's the moderately priced buffet brunch for Dad at the Garden Pavilion of the Renaissance restaurant at the Manor Hotel, 5930 Franklin Ave., Hollywood, with lots of good hot and cold offerings for $20 with advance reservation or $25 at the door.

Reservations: [phone].

RIDIN' OUT: Even cowpoke dads can't eat here.

The posh Texan restaurant Reata, which galloped into Beverly Hills last year with its chef-author Grady Spears-inspired fare (he wrote ``A Cowboy in the Kitchen''), has closed.

This follows a departure from the three-restaurant firm by Spears and the shuttering of the Fort Worth Reata.

Company vice president Casey Sorber said that the original Alpine, Texas, Reata is still operating and that a new downtown Fort Worth location is in negotiation and should open by Sept. 1.

The Reata, at 421 N. Rodeo Drive, featured such intrigues as quail enchiladas, calf fries (huevos of young toros), steak tamales, rock shrimp tacos, buffalo spareribs, chicken fried steak and dessert tacos.