DINING BEAT : ZAGAT RELEASES 1998 RANKINGS.Byline: Larry Lipson The new Zagat Survey for 1998 is here, and the most interesting change from last year is the move of Cafe Bizou in Sherman Oaks from fourth to third place among ``L.A.'s Favorite Restaurants.'' Bizou jumped over the Bel-Air Hotel into its third spot. Now only repeaters Patina patina (păt`ənə), coating of carbonate of copper on articles of copper or bronze, formed after long exposure to a moist atmosphere or burial in the earth. Although commonly green, patina varies in color and consistency; it may be red, brown, black, blue, or gray, or it may be smooth, glossy, or crusty. as No. 1 and Chinois on Main in the second slot stand in front of this suburban gem. On the same list, the Cheesecake Factory, the only true chain dinery in the top 25, vaulted from 12th last year to seventh in '98, while Pinot Bistro, Joachim Splichal's Valley restaurant, sank from seventh to 11th. Others in the top 10 for popularity: Campanile campanile (kămpənē`lē, Ital. kämpänē`lā), Italian form of bell tower, constructed chiefly during the Middle Ages. Built in connection with a church or a town hall, it served as a belfry and watch tower and often functioned as a civic or commemorative monument. retained fifth place, Valentino moved back up to sixth, while Citrus stepped down from sixth to eighth, Matsuhisa climbed from 11th to ninth and Joe's in Venice slid from eighth to 10th. A surprising drop was Parkway Grill, ecstatic last year when it was named 10th, but now down to 16th. Big gainers were Spago (combining the new Beverly Hills one with the original), jumping from 23rd to 14th, and Lawry's, advancing from 20th to 12th. The '98 Zagat survey guide ($10.95 at bookstores) offers a few minor revelations. One is that 57 restaurants are listed as ``Noteworthy Newcomers'' compared to 49 last year. And 28 ``Noteworthy Closings'' appear against 36 in the '97 booklet. This suggests there are plenty of good restaurants appearing on the scene, yet fewer are shuttering. And perhaps you hadn't noticed that Wood Ranch, the Agoura-Moorpark-Camarillo trio of barbecue and steak eateries, tied last year with Dr. Hogly Wogly's of Van Nuys, the perenniel Zagat winner in the 'cue category. Well, guess what? Yep, the Ranch now stands alone as the best barbecuer in the L.A. area, as the Doctor dropped a point in the current survey. As for straight food ratings, the same five stayed on top this coming year, the biggest change being Patina losing decimal-point ground among the 28-point group (out of 30) and falling to fifth from second. To order the 1998 edition or any of the other 36 Zagat dining guides for cities, call (800) 333-3421. |
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