DINING BEAT : NEW NAME, SAME PLACE.

Byline: Larry Lipson

Those familiar with the 7-year-old Hungarian restaurant Hortobagy at 11138 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, might have noticed a new sign proclaiming it Laszlo's Cuisine.

Laszlo is Hortobagy's chef-owner Laszlo Bossanyi, who decided a name change would better reflect his ``diverse culinary background in European cooking.''

Bossanyi's background is rather auspicious. He worked at the Hotel Beke in Budapest, then the Lucerne Hotel in Switzerland and the Maurice Hotel in Paris before coming to this country in 1979, when he became a chef at Chasen's. He opened Hortobagy 10 years later.

Today his menu still has paprikas and gulyas (better known as paprikash and goulash) as well as stuffed cabbage, Wiener schnitzel and his well-known wooden platter of meats and vegetables for twosomes.

However, Laszlo's fare incorporates several fish dishes (even catfish), ravioli, roast duck, filet mignon and sauteed shrimp - thankfully without losing the definitive Hungarian accent in most of the cooking.

Reservations: [phone].

A tribute to Yama

Sad to learn of the death recently of one of the San Fernando Valley's top sushi chefs, Masatoshi Yamakawa, whose small Japanese cafe Yamakawa at 10118 Riverside Drive, Toluca Lake, hosts sushi fanciers who range from international celebrities to no-name locals.

``Yama,'' as he was affectionately called by all who rub shoulders at his sushi bar, never ceased to have a grin and a contagious laugh that made visiting his domain a relaxing and pleasurable experience.

He died quickly, within a few months after discovering he had stomach cancer.

His wife, Keiko, and children, Larry and Evre, continue to operate the restaurant.

Etc.

The Sherman Oaks location of El Paso Barbeque Co. at 14423 Ventura Blvd. has closed following its sale by owner Teddy Ma.

``It will become a Japanese restaurant,'' he said.

Ma continues to run his original El Paso in Tarzana at 18938 Ventura Blvd., featuring Texas-style barbecue specialties.