DINING BEAT : HEARTY MEAL, LEAN TARIFF.

Byline: Larry Lipson

Lots of opportunities, as usual, for celebrating Thanksgiving in a local restaurant.

And prices vary, of course, according to each restaurant's regular price range.

Some, however, offer attractive prix-fixe dinners at surprisingly reasonable tariff. Like the oft-forgotten gem of a restaurant just off the Sunset Strip at the Sunset Marquis Hotel named simply The Room.

Here at 621 N. La Jolla Ave., chef Danny Justis will serve a four-course meal for $24.95 from 4 to 10 p.m. beginning with carrot cider bisque laced with ginger.

His salad contains baby bibb lettuce, poached pears, tear-drop tomatoes, candied pecans and a champagne citrus dressing.

Traditional roast turkey with cranberry stuffing, mashed potatoes with giblet gravy, a sweet potato puree and a wild mushroom-green bean souffle provides one main course option. Prime rib with baked potato, vegetables and Yorkshire pudding is the other choice.

Desserts are pumpkin cheesecake, pecan pie with caramel sauce and cranberry creme brulee with a papaya-mango cream glaze.

Reservations: [phone].

A local tradition

At the Valley Inn, 4557 Sherman Oaks Ave., Sherman Oaks, Thanksgiving dinners have been a local tradition for more than half a century.

This year's roast turkey (served from 3 p.m.) comes with apple stuffing, and the meal ($18.95) includes corn chowder or a salad, then mashed potatoes, candied yams, green beans and cranberry relish with the main course and pumpkin pie for dessert.

Alternative entrees are honey roasted ham with raisin sauce or roast leg of lamb with mint jelly.

Reservations: [phone].

Holiday dinners to go

Thanksgiving dinners to go include a big deal by the Century Plaza Hotel, 2025 Avenue of the Stars, Century City, which promises that your $80 meal (feeds eight to 10) will be placed in your trunk within 90 seconds of your arrival at the hotel's front door or your order is free. No orders taken after Wednesday. Information: [phone].

For downtown office types, an elaborate dinner to go from Engine Co. No. 28 for $145 that serves six to eight can be picked up on Wednesday until 9 p.m. Information: [phone].

Etc.

The name of the new restaurant replacing Drai's at 730 N. La Cienega Blvd., West Hollywood, is Cienega and it plans to open Dec. 3. Information: [phone].