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DINING BEAT : HAIL CAESAR, THE SALAD ...


Byline: Larry Lipson

So who's coddling In cooking, to coddle food is to heat it in water kept just below the boiling point.

The eggs added to a Caesar salad should ideally be coddled. However, coddled eggs are not fully cooked and still present a salmonella risk.
 whom?

Whether it's a raw egg or a coddled egg that's used in the traditional Caesar salad recipe, California restaurateurs can now make this dish once again without fear of breaking the law.

Under recently passed legislation signed by Gov. Pete Wilson, the only requirement is that customers have to be informed in advance that the salad contains raw egg.

Previously, food safety laws made it illegal to use raw eggs in a Caesar unless it was made from scratch at tableside ta·ble·side  
n.
The area beside or around a table, especially in a restaurant.

adv. & adj.
Made or prepared alongside a table: lamb that was carved tableside; a tableside recitation of the menu.
, which, of course, is the best way.

The irony of the situation, according to Nation's Restaurant News, a trade publication, is that the romaine lettuce crop in the state has been so depleted de·plete  
tr.v. de·plet·ed, de·plet·ing, de·pletes
To decrease the fullness of; use up or empty out.



[Latin d
 by El Nino storms that the ability of restaurants to serve traditional Caesar salads has become ``nearly impossible.''

Tap your slush fund Slush Fund

A fund (or something similar) that does not have a designated purpose. These types of funds are often illegal.

Notes:
A good example would be a politician siphoning off money for side investments or to help friends.
See also: Mutual Fund
 

Chef Robert Gadsby calls his granites ``adult slushes.''

The flavored ice creations, often used between courses to clear the palate but sometimes as simple refreshers, are popular beat-the-heat items at his Gadsby's, 672 S. La Brea Ave., Los Angeles, especially the rose petal-flavored ones.

Also available are black currant-champagne, tequila-lime and espresso-lemon flavors.

Information and reservations: (323) 936-8471.

Tortilla Inn tradition

New owners of the almost-40-year-old Tortilla Inn, 18114 Parthenia St., Northridge, are Irene and Vidal Quintana.

Continuing with the same menu of Mexican specialties, same staff and policies, the Quintanas have indicated they intend to carry on in the tradition of the restaurant's late founder Bob Uriarte.

Information and reservations: (818) 993-9711.

Etc.

Buffalo, venison venison (vĕn`ĭzən) [O.Fr.,=hunting], term formerly applied to the flesh of any wild beast or game hunted and used for food but now restricted to the flesh of members of the deer family.  and ostrich comprise the main course at a wine dinner at McCormick & Schmick's, 111 N. Los Robles Robles is a common surname in the Spanish language meaning oaks, and may refer to:
  • Alfonso García Robles (1911-1991), Mexican diplomat and politician
  • Aurora Robles (born 1980), Mexican fashion model
  • Charlie Robles (born 1943), Puerto Rican musician
 Ave., Pasadena, on Aug. 26 despite the fact that this is a seafood restaurant. Other courses are soft-shell crab, rock scallops with mixed greens, and a peach and apricot tart. Appropriate wines by Carmenet, Acacia, Edna Valley and Bonny Doon accompany the dishes. Tab is $55. Reservations: (626) 405-0064.

CAPTION(S):

Photo

Photo: Chef Robert Gadsby features flavored ice creations, which he calls ``adult slushes,'' at his La Brea Avenue La Brea Avenue is a prominent north/south thoroughfare in Los Angeles. After Hawthorne Boulevard intersects with Century Boulevard in Inglewood, La Brea Avenue is formed. La Brea passes north through Windsor Hills, Baldwin Hills, and Ladera Heights.  restaurant.
COPYRIGHT 1998 Daily News
No portion of this article can be reproduced without the express written permission from the copyright holder.
Copyright 1998, Gale Group. All rights reserved. Gale Group is a Thomson Corporation Company.

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Article Details
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Title Annotation:L.A. LIFE
Publication:Daily News (Los Angeles, CA)
Date:Aug 9, 1998
Words:347
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