DINING BEAT : CAIOTI MAN IN TOPANGA.

Byline: With Larry Lipson

Chef Ed LeDou, famous for his pizzas (he was Spago's original pizza chef and conceptualized California Pizza Kitchen) will not be involved in any sort of pizza-making in his newest venture.

LeDou, who continues to own and operate with wife Bonnie Caioti Pizza Cafe, 4346 Tujunga Ave., Studio City, has taken over the former Willows in Topanga.

He calls it Chaparral and features a down-to-earth menu of mainly steaks. It offers everything from a prime rib-eye to a giant porterhouse, then allows diners to pick one of six sauces to go with their steak preference.

Chaparral, at 137 S. Topanga Canyon Blvd., was closed for a couple of weeks during the transition.

Chaparral has a full bar and accepts reservations. Call [phone].

Filipino specialties

Another new local restaurant of interest, touted as the first ``upscale'' Filipino place in the Valley, is Kalesa Grill, 8257 Woodman Ave., Panorama City.

The restaurant provides some 30 main dishes for breakfast and lunch, displayed in hot containers and chosen by customers deli-style.

In the evening, however, there is full table service. Kalesa also features ballroom dancing.

Information: [phone].

Napkin notes

The former ObaChine, now Tsunami, plans to open Thursday at 242 N. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills. Information: [phone]. ... At the recent 15th anniversary of Poquito Mas, 3701 Cahuenga Blvd. W., Studio City, $3,400 (an entire day's sales) was raised for Children of the Night, and three original staffers put their handprints and signatures into the Poquito Mas cemented ``Taco Hall of Fame.'' ... Speaking of tacos, the new Med-Mex combo menus trend brings Mediterranean-Middle Eastern fast food and familiar Mexican items to both Gulan's, 14552 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks, [phone], and Fiesta Feast, 17336 Sunset Blvd., Pacific Palisades, [phone]. So now you can get your kebabs and tacos at the same time.