DINING BEAT : BISTRO STAYS OPEN LATE.

Byline: Larry Lipson

Jean Francois Meteigner, chef-owner of the successful La Cachette in West Los Angeles, has given up on his Provencal cafe idea called Bistrot Provencal that he opened in West Hollywood in December last year.

He's renamed it Bistro 829, utilizing its address, 829 N. La Cienega Blvd., for its title.

He's also redecorated and refurnished, and promises a new menu and live entertainment.

But the eye-opener is that Bistro 829 will be serving food until 3 a.m. much of the week.

This will please the city's insomniacs, many of whom complain that there's too few decent places to eat in Los Angeles after 10 p.m., and especially after midnight.

The new menu offers several appetizers, pizzas and salads, most of them at $8 or $9 each. The entrees range from $14 to $18, the latter being steamed Maine lobster, the former roasted chicken and frites or boudin blanc sausage and mashed potatoes.

There are a number of holdovers from Bistro Provencal's fare, but the new menu allows such Americana as baby back ribs ($17) and a lean burger on grilled bread ($10).

Ex-head waiter at La Cachette, Bobby Burton, is Bistro 829's maitre d'. As a practiced stand-up comedian, he'll fit in with the new entertainment policy, initially limited to shows at 10 and 11 p.m. Tuesdays through Thursdays.

Information and reservations: [phone].

Muscat love

Quady Winery continues its search for the best dessert using its Essencia '97 Orange Muscat wine.

Its annual competition for professional chefs and patissiers (first prize is valued at $1,000) will be held the afternoon of July 27 at the Argyle Hotel in West Hollywood.

Entry information: [phone].

Hello and goodbye

They open, they close.

Rocco, the replacement for Adriano's at 2930 Beverly Glen Circle, Bel-Air, has its grand opening Thursday with an invitational party.

And the 14 year-old Gilliland's, 2424 Main St., Santa Monica, will serve its last dinners July 25.