DINING BEAT : AUTOBISTRO GETS IN GEAR.

Byline: Larry Lipson

It looks like a carwash met one of the covered bridges of Madison County.

But it's actually a food-to-go place.

First came drive-ins, then drive-throughs. Now, there's a novel takeout restaurant in Newport Beach called Autobistro that's described by writer Richard Martin in the Nation's Restaurant News as a ``drive-under.''

Without the usual low-cost fast food of the typical drive-through, Autobistro offers ``a higher grade of dashboard dining,'' that consists of such items as sesame peanut noodles with grilled chicken mixed with crispy Thai salad greens ($6.50) and a sandwich of roast beef, caramelized onions, cheddar cheese and horseradish sauce on focaccia ($4.75).

For breakfast, there's a buttermilk biscuit stuffed with scrambled eggs, chicken, apple sausage, smoked gouda cheese and green onion ($2.75). And for dessert, Autobistro's kitchen, which is situated above the cars in a distinctive, somewhat bizarre, ``futuristic'' structure, offers rich butter cake with toffee filling ($1.50).

Orders are taken by real people called ``No-wait persons.''

And there are complimentary dog biscuits in case your pooch is traveling with you.

Autobistro is at 3100 W. Coast Highway. Information: [phone].

Remodeling ruse?

Closed for remodeling is Book Soup Bistro, 8800 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood. The restaurant sent out notices on postcards that said that it would reopen in January 1999.

But those three words, ``closed for remodeling,'' bring more than a modicum of doubt to any cynic, especially yours truly.

Jimmy's, the fashionable Beverly Hills restaurant used them, then closed.

More recently, the Gypsy Grill in Encino used them, and now there are signs on the building saying that the property is available.

Napkin notes

Taste of India in Sherman Oaks has opened a second location at 21833 Ventura Blvd., Woodland Hills, [phone]. ... Hiroji ``Hiro'' Obayashi has opened Menjin International Noodle House at 8393 Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles, [phone], next to his Hirozen Gourmet. ... La Cachette, 10506 Santa Monica Blvd., West Los Angeles, hosts a James Beard Foundation benefit dinner Oct. 11 featuring the cooking talents of chef-owner Jean Francois Meteigner, Jozu chef Suzanne Tracht, JiRaffe chefs Josiah Citrin and Raphael Lunetta, Mimosa chef Jean Pierre Bosc and patissier Yvan Valentin of Sweet Temptations. Nonmembers: $95. Reservations: [phone].