DINING BEAT\Fish tacos and more.

Byline: Larry Lipson

Boasting that it has sold 15 million fish tacos since its inception in 1983, Rubio's, with 26 California locations, has finally sneaked into the San Fernando Valley.

Going head to head against Baja Fresh, La Salsa, Poquito Mas, Sharky's and other local fresh-Mex outlets, Rubio's Valley restaurant made a quiet debut in the Encino Town Center at 17200 Ventura Blvd.

Founder Ralph Rubio claims the original fish taco that inspired his recipe was purchased from a street vendor named Carlos in San Felipe, Mexico. Rubio developed the recipe with his brother, Robert.

But Rubio's fish tacos, priced at $1.64, $1.99 and $2.59 represent only a small part of Rubio's menu. Tostadas, burritos (including fish and shrimp), salads, quesadillas, nachos and combinations round out the fare, which tops out at $5.79 for its grilled chicken burrito and mahi fish taco combinations plates with rice and beans.

Interestingly, refried beans and black beans are not the beans of choice here. Rubio's makes boiled pinto beans without lard, spices them up somewhat and serves them with a sprinkling of cheese.

And it serves an ice cream taco called a "choco taco" ($1.25) as a dessert item.

For information: [phone].

Napkin notes

Latest casualties are Adam's, the rib and prime rib house at 17500 Ventura Blvd., Encino, and Golden Plum, 980 N. Broadway, Los Angeles, one of my favorite Chinatown retreats, unfortunately located on a less-favored part of a once-heralded destination that has lost a lot of its customers to Monterey Park and other San Gabriel Valley-area Chinese restaurants. ... Some newcomers are a third Lenchita's, the popular tortilleria-cafe, now in Canoga Park at 20039 Vanowen St., [phone]; a new Koo Koo Roo of the burgeoning chicken chain at 12175 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, [phone]; and Bistrot by the Water, a cutesy little French cafe at 860 Hampshire Road, Westlake Village, [phone].