DINING BEAT\Eateries in motion.

Byline: Larry Lipson

In Los Angeles, rarely does a restaurant space stay dark for long.

Despite a seeming increase in high-profile restaurant closures recently, replacements appear to jump into the fray almost immediately. Sometimes the announcement of the new restaurant comes before any hint about the outgoing tenant.

In the case of the former Gingerman/Carroll O'Connor's/Carson's building in Beverly Hills, however, several potential lessees were in play before Victor Drai of the hot show-biz rendezvous Drai's on La Cienega Boulevard signed the deal for 369 N. Bedford Drive.

After actress Valerie Harper and husband Tony Cacciotti's Regina Coeli at 829 N. La Cienega Blvd. in West Hollywood shuttered with plans to relocate in Manhattan, Abiquiu maitre d' Brian Reed, the ex-Delmonico's manager, took over the site. He says he will reopen it on Good Friday for private parties and on April 7 to the public.

Its new name will be Fatty's Row House, named after Roscoe "Fatty" Arbuckle, who lived in the building in the '20s. It also used to be a landmark Italian restaurant called Patrone's.

Reed said he's hired chef Patrick Beck to produce a menu he describes as "American rustic," with prices around $14 to $16 for entrees.

Meanwhile, Victor Drai, the ex-movie-producer-turned-restaurateur, said he plans to open a casual breakfast, lunch and dinner spot in June or July where O'Connor previously held court.

Drai said he hasn't decided on a name yet but is mulling Drai's Cafe and D Cafe.

Claude Segal, while continuing as chef at Drai's, will plan menus and oversee the kitchen in the new place, Drai said.

It's wine time

Red Carpet, a Glendale wine merchant, is sponsoring a four-course winemaker dinner Tuesday at 7 p.m. at Papashon, 15910 Ventura Blvd., Encino, featuring Flora Springs Winery owner John Komes.

The meal ($59) will include several new Flora Springs wines.

Reservations: [phone].