DIAMONDS ARE FOREVER AT GOVERNORS BALL.

Byline: Natalie Haughton Food Editor

This year's Governors Ball following the 75th Academy Awards presented in the Kodak Theatre on March 23 will reflect the elegance, nostalgia and sophistication of the first Academy Awards. That was a dinner held at the Roosevelt Hotel Hollywood on May 16, 1929.

``It's all about going back in time,'' says Cheryl Cecchetto of Sequoia Productions, the Governors Ball producer for the 14th consecutive year. The dinner (the official after-party of the Academy Awards) for 1,650 Oscar winners, nominees, presenters and performers will be held in the Governors Ballroom in the Hollywood & Highland complex, adjacent to the Kodak Theatre.

Here are some of the details unveiled last week:

DECOR: This 75th (Diamond) anniversary will feature a neutral palette with black, white, silver and sepia tones throughout. ``The biggest challenge is to make the ball cutting edge, fresh, significant and honest to tradition, '' notes Cecchetto, adding that it's designed to be ``a very respectful, nostalgic event.''

--All 135 dining tables will be rectangular (seating from 12 to 14 people each), in keeping with the early days. To represent the period, base tablecloths of black, kick-pleated Dupioni silk will be topped with antique white diamond-patterned silk runner overlays bordered with black velvet and beaded trim. Assorted sizes and styles of jeweled antique silver frames filled with copies of historical memorabilia (photos, menus, tickets, etc.) of the awards' past 75 years will grace the tables.

--Tables will be adorned with one of three different floral arrangements created by Mark Held, co-owner of Mark's Garden in Sherman Oaks. ``We are trying to re-create the glamour of the early days of the Oscars,'' says Held, adding that ``the fantasy of old Hollywood was our inspiration for our centerpieces offering a new twist on timeless flower favorites.'' Among those being used are white calla lilies, white orchids, white hydrangeas and white carnations - in containers of black velvet or beakers of glass along with small julep cups alongside.

--White carpeting will cover the ballroom floor. Oversize black and white photographs from the first dinner and images from subsequent decades will be displayed on the walls.

--Inspired by the ceiling in the Blossom Room at the Roosevelt Hotel, a special drop ceiling with a diamond pattern is being created in the ballroom.

FOOD: Celebrity chef Wolfgang Puck has once again created the multicourse sit-down dinner menu. It won't be black and white but nice and colorful, says Puck. Oscar statuettes - made of brioche for appetizers and chocolate dusted with gold for dessert - will star. More than 50 of Puck's top chefs (from his restaurants) will be cooking in the kitchens attached to the ballroom.

--The tray-passed hors d'oeuvre selections will star nine items, among them Puck's signature brioche Oscar with Osetra caviar and dill cream, spicy tuna tartare in a sesame cone, vegetable sushi rolls with ponzu, tempura shrimp with wasabi glaze, miniature crab tartlets and Puck's signature pizzas.

--The seated dinner will start with a lobster salad with artichokes, asparagus, fava beans and baby beets dressed with a citrus vinaigrette along with a hot sweet pea soup topped with shavings of black diamonds (truffles) from Perigord. Olive bread, sourdough and flat bread will be passed.

--The main entree is a fish creation - wild French loup de mer ``Oscar'' with two sauces - a tomato beurre blanc and herb beurre blanc. Why fish? ``I wanted to do something different and everyone loves fish. Fish in puff pastry is retro for me,'' notes Puck. A mousse of pureed pike with vegetables (and some egg and cream) will be sandwiched between two fish (loup de mer- or striped sea bass - from Boston) filets, then wrapped in puff pastry and baked in a hot oven. A bouquet of spring vegetables will be served alongside.

For diners who don't eat fish, Puck will have steak, chicken or vegetarian dishes available. If past balls are any indication, ``maybe 100 people will order something special,'' he notes.

--Chocoholics rejoice! This year's grand finale, designed by pastry chef Sherry Yard, is a marquise of chocolate creme brulee with 75 bean Tahitian vanilla ice cream. That translates into a marquise diamond-shaped chocolate pastry tart shell filled with chocolate ganache and topped with a diamond-shaped chocolate creme brulee with a sour cherry sauce. A plate of miniature sweets, centered with a mini blown-sugar globe filled with a gold-dusted chocolate Oscar sprinkled with decorating sugar (to simulate snow) atop a pedestal of two round chocolate discs, will conclude the meal.

--Dinner will be served by waiters dressed in white tux tails, white gloves and 1920s-style groomed hair.

CAPTION(S):

4 photos

Photo:

(1 -- 2) This year's ball will feature oversize black-and-white images such as this one from the first awards dinner. Waiters dressed in white tux tails will serve. One of three table settings will feature calla lily arrangements by Mark's Garden in Sherman Oaks.

(3 -- 4) Spicy tuna tartare in sesame cones, above. Wolfgang Puck's mini gold-dusted chocolate Oscar statuettes, right.

Photos by David Sprague/Daily News