DIAL IN A MEAL TWO WAYS.Byline: Larry Lipson Restaurant Critic Street numbers have long been popular as restaurant names. And now it's area codes. Two restaurants within the San Fernando San Fernando, city, Argentina San Fernando (săn fərnăn`dō), city (1991 pop. 144,761), Buenos Aires prov., E Argentina. It is a district administrative center in the Greater Buenos Aires area. Valley's 818 telephone area code have opened recently utilizing the number 818 as their names: one in Encino calling itself Ate 1-8, the other in Toluca Lake taking the title Eight-18. Ate 1-8 The former, replacing Cafe Bazel, is a spacious, full-service, casual cafe that serves breakfast, lunch and dinner with hints of an Israeli accent (eggs shashuka, jachnoon or malawach; Israeli salad Israeli salad is a chopped salad of diced tomato and cucumber. It is usually dressed with fresh lemon juice and olive oil. Parsley and spring onions are sometimes added, but not lettuce. Generally, the cucumbers are not peeled. ; mezze plate). But it's by no means an Israeli restaurant. In fact, it truly lives up to its self-described international leanings with delightful fish recommendations (whitefish whitefish: see salmon. whitefish Any of several silvery food fishes (family Salmonidae, or Coregonidae), inhabiting cold northern lakes of Europe, Asia, and North America. , salmon or whole tilapia tilapia (təlä`pēə) or St. Peter's fish, a spiny-finned freshwater fish of the family Cichlidae, native chiefly to Africa and the Middle East. , $17 to $20), a juicy ribeye steak ($26), or homey chicken livers or a chicken schnitzel schnit·zel n. A thin cutlet of veal, usually seasoned, that is dipped in batter and fried. [German, from Middle High German snitzel, diminutive of sniz, slice, from snitzen ($16 each). It surprises first-time diners with its sophisticated plate presentations and preparations. Take its four-seasons tapenade ta·pé·nade n. A spread of Provençal origin consisting of capers, black olives, and anchovies puréed with olive oil. [French, from Provençal tapéno, capers.] Noun 1. appetizer dish ($7.95 at lunch, $9 at dinner). Here's an attractive, long and narrow, white platter holding generous daubs of black Kalamata olive ka·la·ma·ta olive also ca·la·ma·ta olive n. An edible variety of olive with a fruity flavor and meaty texture. [After Kalamata, Greece, city around which the olives are grown.] tapenade, a bright green cilantro and pepper mixture, a red pesto-like sun- dried tomato spread and a salty green olive tapenade. It arrives with crusty olive bread and pita wedges. Preceded by a large cup/mug of full-flavored tomato basil soup ($6), the result is a hearty, satisfying lunch or light evening meal. Eight-18 But if it's small bites you want, Eight-18 (which answers the phone as ``eight-eighteen'' rather than eight-one-eight) provides the perfect answer. Already a huge hit locally, it occupies the former Mardi Gras Mardi Gras (mär`dē grä), last day before the fasting season of Lent. It is the French name for Shrove Tuesday. Literally translated, the term means "fat Tuesday" and was so called because it represented the last opportunity for building and presents itself as a tapas, wine bar and lounge kind of place. Consequently, its skillful skill·ful adj. 1. Possessing or exercising skill; expert. See Synonyms at proficient. 2. Characterized by, exhibiting, or requiring skill. chef and kitchen share equal importance with its wines. But that doesn't alter its extraordinarily good food, also very attractively presented and often in large portions. There are wonderful cheese trays (a dozen to choose from) at roughly $5 per cheese, satisfying charcuterie platters at $3 or $5 per item, and even a trio of caviar offerings ($16 to $85). Superb short ribs short ribs pl.n. The rib ends of beef between the rib roast and the plate. Noun 1. short ribs - cut of beef containing rib ends near the sternum cut of beef - cut of meat from beef cattle , filet mignon, sausages (rabbit and veal), venison venison (vĕn`ĭzən) [O.Fr.,=hunting], term formerly applied to the flesh of any wild beast or game hunted and used for food but now restricted to the flesh of members of the deer family. and duck confit head the tapas list of 19 choices ($7 to $18), pairing effectively with red wine. There are several opportunities for chardonnay fanciers, including a scallop scallop or pecten, marine bivalve mollusk. Like its close relative the oyster, the scallop has no siphons, the mantle being completely open, but it differs from other mollusks in that both mantle edges have a row of steely blue "eyes" and dish, lobster empanadas and a remarkable potato soup boosted with black cod and morels. Be careful though, there's always that tendency to order a few too many of these tapas-style plates and wines by the glass, and all of a sudden you're faced with a much larger check than you figured on. But, whatever happens pricewise, at either of the 818s you'll know you 8-well. Larry Lipson, (818) 713-3668 larry.lipson@dailynews.com ATE 1-8 Food: Three and one half stars - Service: Two and one half stars Where: 17620 Ventura Blvd., Encino. Phone: (818) 728-1212; www.ate18.com Meals/hours: Open for breakfast (served to 3 p.m.), lunch and dinner from 10 a.m. to midnight daily. Food type: International. Cost: Numerous breakfasts under $10, lunch sandwiches and salads from $8.50 to $13, lunch entrees from $10 to $14, dinner starters from $6 to $25, entrees from $14 to $28, desserts from $6 to $9. Credit cards: All major. Patio dining: Sidewalk cafe-style boulevard patio. Parking/valet: Free in rear lot. Full bar: No alcohol. License pending. Music/entertainment: No. Takeout/delivery: Yes on takeout and delivery (distance limits and price minimums). Reservations: Taken and welcomed. EIGHT-18 Food: Four stars - Service: Three and one half stars - Wine: Three and one half stars Where: 10151 Riverside Drive, Toluca Lake. Phone: (818) 761-4243; www.eight-18.com. Meals/hours: Open for lunch (to 3 p.m.), dinner and snacks from 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m. daily except Sunday, to midnight Friday and Saturday. Food type: Tapas-style. Cost: Nine tapas plates at $10 or under ($7 for mac & cheese). Cheeses from $5 to $24, caviars from $16 to $85, charcuterie $12 and $25, desserts $7 to $9. Credit cards: All major. Patio dining: Yes. Covered patio in rear. Parking/valet: Spaces in rear and on street. Full bar: No. Wine and beer licensed. Wine/corkage: Starting list has 96 well-chosen labels ranging from $19 to $170 per bottle, from $13 to $47 per carafe (27 selections) and from $6 to $26 per glass (32 selections including four ports). Beers include two Brazilian bottlings. Corkage cork·age n. A charge exacted at a restaurant for every bottle of liquor served that was not bought on the premises. corkage Noun a charge made at a restaurant for serving wine bought elsewhere : $10 (waived for locker members). Music/entertainment: Yes. Live music Thursday nights. Takeout/delivery: No on both. Reservations: Helpful. CAPTION(S): photo Photo: At Ate 1-8 in Encino, owner Mickey Katz offers international dishes, often with an Israeli accent, and characterized by sophisticated presentation. Hans Gutknecht/Staff Photographer |
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