DESSERT DAZZLES WITH ASSORTED PIES.

Byline: Natalie Haughton Food Editor

When it comes to pies, everyone has a favorite. That's particularly true at Thanksgiving. Some favor traditional pumpkin pies, while others are more adventuresome and want to try new twists on common themes or even more sophisticated options. We've included a few variations on the pumpkin pie along with other seasonal possibilities good for any dessert finale this time of year. Keep them handy for entertaining throughout the holiday season.

Pie baking really can be ``easy as pie.'' No need to panic! With a little confidence, a good recipe and a few ingredients, you can easily whip up a satisfying creation. Good pies sport a light, flaky, tender crust. Although making a good crust is not difficult, it scares away some, especially novice cooks.

When working with pie crust dough, keep the fat and water (if using) cold. Whatever you do, especially if using a food processor, be sure not to overwork the dough or you'll end up with a tough crust. Some cooks prefer cutting the fat into the dry-crust ingredients with a pastry blender, two knives or even their fingertips. Some experts prefer using butter in their crusts, while others opt for shortening or a combination of the two. Lard, which produces the flakiest pastry and is easy to work with, is often avoided as it may have off flavors as shelf turnover in grocery stores can be slow.

For best results when baking pies, use shiny metal or oven-proof glass pie dishes. Avoid pans with dark finishes as they do not reflect the heat as shiny metal pans, causing crusts to darken quickly or even burn.

Just because you don't have the time or inclination to make your own crust doesn't mean you have to give up pie baking altogether. Rely on a commercially made store-bought crust and try one of the fillings in the recipes here.

``There's no shame in store-bought,'' notes the November issue of Gourmet magazine. In fact, when they blind-baked four store-bought crusts in the test kitchens, Gourmet's experts were surprised. ``They all turned out to be better than a bad homemade one. The favorite was Pillsbury's All Ready. It was tender and had the most realistic color.'' That's our favorite, too - we have been using and recommending it for years. Oftentimes when I've used that crust, diners ask me for my crust recipe! You'll find the crusts packaged in a 15-ounce box of two, folded in quarters, in the supermarket dairy case.

If you can't muster up the time, strength or interest to bake your own pie, you can add your own touch by tossing together a pecan topping (see the recipe that follows) and broiling it atop a store-bought pumpkin or sweet potato pie. Other options for presenting store-bought pies include drizzling slices of the pie and individual serving plates with warmed caramel topping (from a jar) and topping with toffee bits or crushed peanut brittle or chopped nuts. Or accompany a slice of pie with a ginger cookie topped with a dollop of whipped cream or ice cream and chocolate shavings or chocolate curls.

Be sure to save room for some of these delectable, down-home pies. Thanksgiving dinner just wouldn't be complete without one - or two or three. All are easily prepared with minimal effort for holiday festivities.

BASIC FLAKY PIE-CRUST PASTRY

1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/2 cup solid white vegetable shortening OR 1/4 cup solid vegetable shortening plus 3 tablespoons lard, chilled

2 to 3 tablespoons ice water

Mix flour and salt together in a medium bowl with a fork until blended. With a pastry blender or two knives, cut cold shortening into flour mixture until it resembles coarse crumbs. Drizzle ice water over flour mixture. Toss with a fork to moisten evenly, adding more water, if necessary, a few drops at a time, just until dough particles start to cling together and onto tines of fork.

Gently gather dough into a ball. Wrap in plastic wrap or waxed paper and chill about 30 minutes before rolling (much longer than that and the dough will be too hard to roll). For longer storage, seal in plastic bag. If you want to make the dough a day ahead, set out at room temperature for about an hour before rolling. Makes enough pastry for a single-crust 8- or 9-inch pie shell.

From ``The Thanksgiving Cookbook,'' by Holly Garrison, Macmillan.

DEEP-CHOCOLATE AND WALNUT PIE

3 large eggs

1 cup packed light brown sugar

1/4 cup light corn syrup 

1/2 teaspoon baking soda 

1/4 cup good brandy OR cognac

4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) butter, melted

5 ounces semisweet chocolate, coarsely chopped

1 cup coarsely chopped walnuts OR pecans

Basic Flaky Pie Crust Pastry for a 9-inch single-crust pie (recipe follows)

Plain OR lightly sweetened whipped cream

Grated chocolate or chocolate curls

In a medium bowl, beat eggs until pale and frothy. Add brown sugar, corn syrup, baking soda and brandy and stir until sugar is dissolved. Stir in melted butter, chopped chocolate and walnuts. Pour filling into unbaked Pie Crust shell.

Bake in preheated 325-degree oven 40 to 45 minutes or until filling is firm to touch and edge is golden brown. Remove from oven to a wire rack and cool completely before cutting. Serve with mounds of whipped cream sprinkled with grated chocolate or chocolate curls. Makes 1 (9-inch) pie, 6 to 8 servings.

From ``The Thanksgiving Cookbook,'' by Holly Garrison, Macmillan.

ELIZABETH CROW'S PECAN TOPPING FOR PUMPKIN PIE

If time isn't on your side, this sweet, crunchy topping can help even a store-bought pumpkin pie achieve homemade status.

1 cup pecan pieces

1 tablespoon minced crystallized ginger 

3/4 cup packed dark brown sugar

4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) butter, melted

1 baked 8-, 9- OR 10-inch pumpkin pie, homemade OR store-bought

Mix all ingredients except pie in a small bowl. Spread evenly over top of baked pumpkin pie. Broil about 7 inches from heat source about 2 minutes, watching carefully until topping is golden and sugar is dissolved. Cool a little before serving. Makes enough to top 1 (8-, 9-, or 10-inch) pumpkin pie.

From ``The Thanksgiving Cookbook,'' by Holly Garrison, Macmillan.

LIGHTER CLASSIC PUMPKIN PIE

1 unbaked 9-inch deep dish pie shell, refrigerated, frozen OR homemade

3/4 cup granulated sugar 

1 tablespoon cornstarch 

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon ground ginger

1/2 teaspoon salt

2 egg whites

1 3/4 cups (a 16-ounce can) 100 percent pure pumpkin (puree)

1 1/2 cups (a 12-fluid-ounce can) undiluted evaporated skimmed milk

Prepare pie shell. In a small bowl, combine sugar, cornstarch, cinnamon, ginger and salt.

In a large bowl, beat egg whites lightly. Stir in sugar mixture and pumpkin. Gradually stir in evaporated milk. Pour into pie shell.

Bake in preheated 425-degree oven 15 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to 350 degrees and bake an additional 30 to 40 minutes or until knife inserted near center comes out clean. Cool on wire rack. Makes 1 pie.

NOTE: If using a metal or foil pan, bake on preheated heavy-duty baking sheet. If not using a deep dish pie shell, use 2 (9-inch) shallow pie shells. Bake in preheated 425-degree oven 15 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to 350 degrees, bake additional 15 to 20 minutes or until pies test done.

BOURBON PECAN PIE

3 large eggs

1/2 cup packed light brown sugar

1 cup dark corn syrup

Pinch salt

1 tablespoon bourbon

1 teaspoon vanilla

1 tablespoon butter, melted

1 1/2 cups pecan pieces

1 (9-inch) prebaked Butter Crust Pie Dough shell

Mix eggs and brown sugar together; add corn syrup and mix well. Add salt, bourbon, vanilla and butter and mix together. Spread pecan pieces in prebaked Butter Crust Pie Dough shell. Pour egg mixture over all. Bake in preheated 350-degree oven 35 to 45 minutes. Makes 1 pie.

BUTTER CRUST PIE DOUGH: Cut 1/2 cup cold butter into 1/4-inch cubes. Combine 1 1/4 cups flour, 2 tablespoons sugar and 1/4 teaspoon salt and mix together. Cut butter cubes into flour until mixture is crumbly and pieces are pea-size. Sprinkle 2 to 3 tablespoons cold water evenly over mixture and mix until dough pulls together. Pat mixture into a flattened ball. On a lightly floured surface, roll out dough into a large circle 2 inches larger than pie pan. Flute edges to give pie shell some height and freeze 15 minutes. Remove shell from freezer, line with foil and fill with pie weights (or rice). Bake in preheated 350-degree oven 18 to 20 minutes, then remove weights and foil and bake until lightly golden another 5 to 10 minutes for a partially baked crust. Makes 1 (9-inch) crust.

Shared by Carolyn Weil, a Berkeley baking instructor and former pastry chef.

BERRY PEACH PIE

1 (15-ounce package) refrigerated pie crusts, softened as directed on package

1 cup sugar

2 3/4 cups sliced peeled frozen peaches (about 1 pound), thawed

1 cup raspberries

1 cup blueberries

2 tablespoons quick-cooking tapioca OR 1 tablespoon cornstarch

2 tablespoons Amaretto (optional)

1/2 teaspoon almond extract

1/4 cup sliced almonds

Prepare pie crusts as directed on package for a 2-crust pie using a 9-inch pie pan.

Reserve 1 teaspoon sugar for topping. In a large bowl, combine all remaining ingredients except pie crusts and almonds; mix well. Spoon into crust-lined pan.

To make lattice top, cut remaining crust into 1/2-inch-wide strips. Arrange 1/2 of strips in one direction over filling. Rotate pan one quarter turn; place remaining strips at right angles directly over first strips. Trim ends even with edge of dough. Press fork tines around edge of dough. Sprinkle reserved 1 teaspoon sugar over top of pie. Sprinkle almonds around edge.

Bake in preheated 400-degree oven 35 to 45 minutes or until crust is golden brown and filling is bubbly. Cover edge of crust with strips of foil after 15 to 20 minutes of baking to prevent excessive browning. Let stand at least 15 to 20 minutes before serving. Garnish with whipped cream or ice cream, if desired. Makes 8 servings.

FRENCH SILK CHOCOLATE PIE

CRUST:

1 refrigerated pie crust (from a 15-ounce package)

FILLING:

3 ounces unsweetened chocolate, cut into pieces

1 cup butter, softened (do not use margarine)

1 cup sugar

1/2 teaspoon vanilla

1 cup refrigerated OR frozen fat-free egg product, thawed, OR 4 pasteurized eggs

TOPPING:

1/2 cup whipping cream, whipped and sweetened

Chocolate curls, if desired

For Crust, prepare pie crust as directed on package for a crust baked shell using a 9-inch pie pan. Bake in preheated 450-degree oven 9 to 11 minutes or until light golden brown. Cool 30 minutes or until completely cooled.

For Filling, melt chocolate in small saucepan over low heat; cool. In a small bowl, beat butter until fluffy. Gradually add sugar, beating until light and fluffy. Add cooled chocolate and vanilla; blend well.

Add egg product gradually, beating at high speed until mixture is smooth and fluffy. Pour into cooled baked shell.

Refrigerate at least 2 hours or until set before serving. Top with whipped cream and chocolate curls. Store in refrigerator. Makes 10 servings.

This recipe was a Bake-off contest winner many years ago.

PUMPKIN PECAN PIE

PUMPKIN FILLING:

1 egg, slightly beaten

1 cup canned 100 percent pure pumpkin (puree)

1/3 cup sugar

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/4 teaspoon ground ginger

1/8 teaspoon ground cloves

CRUST:

1 unbaked (9-inch) pie shell

PECAN LAYER:

2 eggs, slightly beaten

2/3 cup light OR dark corn syrup

2/3 cup sugar

2 tablespoons butter, melted

1/2 teaspoon vanilla

1 cup pecan halves

For Pumpkin Filling, in a small bowl stir together all filling ingredients until well blended. Spread evenly in bottom of pie shell.

For Pecan Layer, in a medium bowl, stir together eggs, corn syrup, sugar, melted butter and vanilla until well blended. Stir in pecans. Carefully spoon over pumpkin filling.

Bake in preheated 350-degree oven 1 hour or until filling is set around edge. Cool on rack. Makes 8 servings.

HARVEST WALNUT PIE

3 eggs, lightly beaten

1 cup sugar

2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

1 cup dark corn syrup

2 tablespoons butter, melted

1 teaspoon vanilla

1 (9-inch) unbaked pastry shell

1 1/2 cups large walnut pieces

Combine eggs, sugar, flour, corn syrup, butter and vanilla; blend well. Pour into unbaked pastry shell; arrange walnuts on top.

Bake on rack in lower third of preheated 400-degree oven 15 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to 350 degrees; bake an additional 35 to 45 minutes or until center appears set. Cool completely. Makes 8 servings.

DOUBLE LAYER PUMPKIN PIE

4 ounces cream cheese, softened

1 cup plus 1 tablespoon milk

1 tablespoon sugar

1 (8-ounce) container frozen whipped topping, thawed

1 prepared graham cracker crumb crust (6 ounces OR 9 inches)

1 (16-ounce) can 100 percent pure pumpkin (puree)

2 (4-serving size) packages vanilla flavor INSTANT pudding and pie filling mix

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon ground ginger

1/4 teaspoon ground cloves

Beat cream cheese, 1 tablespoon milk and sugar in a large bowl with a wire whisk until smooth. Gently stir in 1 1/2 cups whipped topping. Spread onto bottom of graham cracker crust.

Pour remaining 1 cup cold milk into a large bowl. Add pumpkin, dry pudding mixes and spices. Beat with a wire whisk until well mixed. (Mixture will be thick.) Carefully spread over cream cheese layer.

Refrigerate 4 hours or until set. Garnish with remaining whipped topping. Serve immediately. Keep any leftovers refrigerated. Makes 8 servings.

CAPTION(S):

5 photos

Photo:

(1 -- cover -- color) Holiday finales ...as easy as PIE

(2 -- 3 -- color) For a different twist, offer a Double Layer Pumpkin Pie, above, and Berry Peach Pie, right.

(4 -- color) Embelish store-bought pies with pastry cookie cut-outs or other toppings.

(5 -- color) no caption (Lighter Classic Pumpkin Pie)