DEFINING SPRING.

Byline: Judith Blake Seattle Times

SPRING: 1. That season of the year in which plants begin to grow after lying dormant all winter. ... 2. Any period of beginning or newness.

- Webster's New World Dictionary, Third College Edition

Can the dictionary ever fully define spring? To anyone who knows that the season's real meaning lies in the tender new shoots of asparagus, the dictionary can only hint at spring's promise.

We can all taste that promise, though, not only in asparagus, but in other spring crops such as tangy rhubarb, fresh-from-the-field peas and sweet strawberries.

These days, with the worldwide commerce in produce, you can buy these vegetables and fruits, imported, even in the dead of winter. But spring is their true season, the time when the local crops come to market in all their glory. Savor their fresh flavors and you'll know what spring is all about.

Here are some delicious recipes using spring fruits and veggies.

RHUBARB-STRAWBERRY NUT TART

BROWN BUTTER SUGAR CRUST:

3/4 cup (1 1/2 sticks) unsalted butter

2 cups all-purpose flour

1/4 cup granulated sugar 

1/2 teaspoon salt

Finely grated peel (yellow part of peel) of 1 lemon

3 hard-cooked egg yolks, chilled and mashed

1 whole egg

About 2 tablespoons water

FILLING:

1 cup walnuts, hazelnuts OR pecans, ground finely

1 cup granulated sugar

1/4 cup all-purpose flour

1 tablespoon grated orange peel (orange part of peel)

2 cups rhubarb (about 3/4 pound), cut into 1/2-inch pieces

2 cups (1 pint) whole small strawberries OR halved larger strawberries

TOPPING:

1/2 cup packed brown sugar

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1 cup all-purpose flour

1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, softened

For Brown Butter Sugar Crust, in a small saucepan melt butter and, watching carefully, cook about 5 minutes, shaking pan occasionally, until butter turns golden. Pour into a small heat-proof bowl and resolidify in refrigerator or freezer until firm. Then cut into small pieces.

In a food processor, combine flour, granulated sugar, salt and lemon peel. Add hard-cooked egg yolks and process until incorporated into flour. Add whole egg and process; add just enough water to hold dough together. Do not overwork dough or it will be tough. (You can also combine dough by hand.)

Spray a 9-inch deep-dish pie pan or quiche dish with vegetable cooking spray. Press dough onto bottom and up sides of pan. Set aside.

For Filling, spread nuts over dough in pan. Combine granulated sugar, flour, orange peel, rhubarb and strawberries in a bowl. Set aside while preparing topping.

For Topping, combine brown sugar, cinnamon and flour. Add butter and work together to form coarse crumbs.

Stir fruit and pour into crust. Sprinkle topping over filling and place tart on a baking sheet.

Bake in preheated 400-degree oven on lowest rack, about 50 minutes, until juices are bubbly and crust is browned. Cool on a rack before serving. Makes 10 to 12 servings.

NUTRITION INFORMATION PER SERVING: 510 calories; 28 grams fat; 60 grams carbohydrates; 7 grams protein; 125 milligrams cholesterol; 106 milligrams sodium.

From ``Desserts With a Difference'' by Sally and Martin Stone.

SHRIMP AND STRAWBERRY SALAD

SALAD:

1 pound medium shrimp OR prawns

Water

2 slices lemon

2 small heads Belgian endive, leaves separated

1 head butter lettuce

1/2 cup mint leaves

2 tablespoons minced fresh chives 

1 pint strawberries, hulled and sliced

DRESSING:

1/2 teaspoon Dijon mustard

2 tablespoons honey

1 generous tablespoon mint leaves, chopped

3 tablespoons raspberry vinegar

1 tablespoon lemon juice

1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon salt

Freshly ground black pepper to taste

4 tablespoons olive oil 

For Salad, peel and devein shrimp. Bring a pan of water to a boil with lemon slices. When boiling, add shrimp and cook until pink, curled and cooked through, about 2 minutes. Drain well and discard lemon slices. Place shrimp on a paper towel-lined plate and refrigerate.

Sliver Belgian endive leaves. Clean and tear butter lettuce into bite-size pieces. Combine endive, lettuce, mint and chives in a bowl. Cover with a paper towel and refrigerate.

For Dressing, in a bowl, whisk together mustard, honey, mint, vinegar, lemon juice, salt and pepper. Whisk in olive oil until blended. Transfer to a jar and refrigerate until ready to use.

When ready to serve salad, add shrimp and sliced strawberries to lettuce. Add enough dressing to lightly coat salad and serve. Makes 4 main-dish servings.

NUTRITION INFORMATION PER SERVING: 304 calories; 16 grams fat; 22 grams carbohydrates; 20 grams protein; 140 milligrams cholesterol; 296 milligrams sodium.

Adapted from ``Pacific Northwest Palate'' by Susan Bradley.

SAUTEED POD PEAS AND BELL PEPPER

1/2 pound sugar snap peas

1/2 pound Chinese pea pods (snow peas)

Water

1/3 pound shiitake mushrooms, stems trimmed

1 medium yellow bell pepper, stemmed and seeded

3 tablespoons slivered almonds

2 teaspoons canola OR vegetable oil

3 teaspoons butter

1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger root

1 teaspoon minced garlic

1 tablespoon lemon juice

1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon salt

Snap ends of both sugar snap and Chinese pea pods; pull strings if necessary. Bring a pan of water to a boil and add peas and immediately start timing for 1 minute. Drain in a colander and rinse with cold water until cooled. Drain on a plate between sheets of paper towels.

Wipe mushrooms clean with a damp paper towel and slice thinly. Set aside.

Cut bell pepper lengthwise into sixths; then crosswise into thin slivers. Set aside.

Toast almonds a few minutes in a dry skillet until golden; set aside.

In a large skillet, heat 1 teaspoon each of oil and butter over medium heat. When hot, add mushrooms, ginger and garlic. Saute until mushrooms have softened, about 4 minutes. Remove from skillet.

Put remaining teaspoon oil in skillet and add bell pepper strips. Saute 3 minutes or until just tender. Put peas, mushrooms, remaining 2 teaspoons butter, lemon juice and salt into skillet. Stir about 4 to 5 minutes, until peas are heated through and vegetables are glazed. Stir in toasted almonds and serve. Makes 6 side-dish servings.

NUTRITION INFORMATION PER SERVING: 108 calories; 5 grams fat; 14 grams carbohydrates; 4 grams protein; 4 milligrams cholesterol; 153 milligrams sodium.

Idea from ``Northwest Bounty'' by Sharon Kramis and Schuyler Ingle.

ASPARAGUS WITH MUSHROOMS AND CARMELIZED SHALLOTS

Water

1 pound asparagus

1/4 cup olive oil

4 large shallots, thinly sliced

1 medium clove garlic, minced

1/4 teaspoon crushed pepper flakes

1/4 teaspoon ground turmeric 

1/2 pound cremini mushrooms, stems trimmed, cleaned and thinly sliced

Finely grated peel (yellow part of peel) of 1 lemon

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

3/4 to 1 teaspoon salt

Freshly ground black pepper to taste

3/4 pound linguine

1/4 cup grated Parmesan OR Romano cheese

Bring a large pan of water to a boil for pasta.

Snap tough ends from asparagus and clean well. Cut on diagonal into 1/2-inch pieces, leaving tips whole. Bring another pan of water to a boil, add asparagus and cook 2 minutes. Drain, reserving 1/4 cup liquid. Rinse asparagus with cold water until cooled. Set aside.

In a large skillet, heat olive oil over medium-low heat. Add shallots and cook 15 minutes, until golden. Add garlic, crushed pepper flakes and turmeric during last 2 minutes of cooking time.

Reduce heat to medium and add mushrooms. Saute until softened, about 5 minutes. Add asparagus, reserved cooking liquid, lemon peel and juice, salt and pepper. Hold on low heat.

Put pasta into boiling water and cook according to package directions. Reserve 1/4 cup of cooking liquid. Drain pasta and put back into hot pan. Add asparagus sauce and cheese; toss to coat pasta. Add reserved pasta cooking liquid if dish seems too dry. Serve immediately. Makes 4 servings.

NUTRITION INFORMATION PER SERVING: 528 calories; 17 grams fat; 78 grams carbohydrates; 18 grams protein; 4 milligrams cholesterol; 508 milligrams sodium.

Adapted from ``Pasta e Verdura'' by Jack Bishop.

ASPARAGUS AND PEAS IN ORANGE-SAFFRON SAUCE

Water

1 1/4 pounds asparagus

1/4 cup olive oil

1 small onion, minced

1 medium clove garlic, minced

1/8 teaspoon powdered saffron

Grated orange peel (orange part of peel) from 1 orange

3 tablespoons fresh orange juice

1 cup frozen peas

3/4 teaspoon salt

Freshly ground black pepper to taste

3/4 pound linguine OR fettuccine 

1/4 cup grated Parmesan OR Romano cheese

Bring a large pan of water to a boil for pasta.

Snap off and discard tough ends from asparagus and rinse well. Cut on diagonal into 1/2-inch pieces, leaving tips whole. Bring another pan of water to a boil, add asparagus and cook 2 minutes. Drain, reserving 1/4 cup of liquid. Rinse asparagus with cold water until cooled. Set aside.

In a large skillet, heat oil over medium heat. Add onion and garlic; saute 5 minutes. Add saffron, orange peel and juice, peas, salt and pepper. Cook 2 minutes. Stir in asparagus and reserved cooking liquid. Cook a few minutes, just until asparagus is heated through. Hold on low heat.

Add pasta to boiling water and cook according to package directions. Reserve 1/4 cup of cooking liquid. Drain pasta and put back into hot pan. Add asparagus sauce and cheese; toss to coat pasta. Add reserved pasta cooking liquid if dish seems too dry. Serve immediately. Makes 4 servings.

NUTRITION INFORMATION PER SERVING: 571 calories; 17 grams fat; 87 grams carbohydrates; 19 grams protein; 4 milligrams cholesterol; 542 milligrams sodium.

From ``Pasta e Verdura'' by Jack Bishop.

RHUBARB SAUCE WITH HONEY AND GINGER

2 pounds rhubarb, trimmed and cut into 1-inch pieces

3 tablespoons water

1/2 cup sugar

1/3 cup honey

1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger root

1/4 teaspoon ground cloves

Put rhubarb, water, sugar, honey, ginger and cloves into a large saucepan. Stir over medium heat until sugar has started to dissolve. Bring to a boil and cover. Reduce heat to a simmer and cook about 10 to 15 minutes, until rhubarb has fallen apart and sauce has thickened. Stir occasionally.

Sauce can be pureed in a food processor for a smooth consistency or left slightly chunky. Chill. (Sauce is especially good served over strawberry ice cream.) Makes 3 cups.

NUTRITION INFORMATION PER SERVING: 67 calories; 17 grams carbohydrates; 0 grams protein; 0 grams fat; 3 milligrams sodium.

CAPTION(S):

4 Photos

Photo: (1--Color) ``ASPARAGUS: 1. Any of a genus (Asparagus) of plants of the lily family, with small scale-like leaves, many flat or needle-like branches and whitish flowers. ... 2. The tender shoots of one of these plants (A. officinalis), used as a vegetable.''

- Webster's New World Dictionary, Third College Edition.

(2--Color) ``RHUBARB: 1. Any of a genus (Rheum) of perennial, large-leaved plants of the buckwheat family; esp., the domestic pieplant (R. rhaponticum), having large, cordate leaf blades borne on long, thick stalks: the stalks are cooked into a sauce or baked in pies, but the blades (leaves) are poisonous.''

- Webster's New World Dictionary, Third College Edition.

(3--Color)``PEA: 1. An annual, tendril-climbing plant (Pisum sativum) of the pea family, with white or pinkish flowers and green seed pods. 2. It's a small, round, smooth or wrinkled seed, used as a vegetable.''

- Webster's New World Dictionary, Third College Edition.

(4--Color)``STRAWBERRY: 1. The small, red, fleshy accessory fruit of a stolon-bearing plant (genus Fragaria) of the rose family.''

- Webster's New World Dictionary, Third College Edition.

Barry Wong/Seattle Times