DEEP-FRIED TURKEY A DIFFERENT KIND OF GOBBLE.

If you want to try deep-frying a turkey this year, here are Rick Rodgers' directions from his cookbook ``Thanksgiving 101.''

BAYOU DEEP-FRIED TURKEY

Every time I turned around, another person was telling me about how deep-fried turkey was the best method known to man. A quick Internet search revealed hundreds of deep-fried turkey sites, all with guaranteed recipes, some only a couple of paragraphs long to describe what is not a procedure for inexperienced cooks. (The most detailed was from my friend ``Hoppin'' Jack Taylor, from his ``Fearless Frying Cookbook.'') Some of my guests did love the crisp golden skin and moist tender meat, while others just could not get past the idea of deep-fried turkey. It certainly is the quickest way to cook a bird - about three minutes a pound.

For years it has been a staple at Cajun-country cookouts, where the idea does make sense. In Louisiana at church suppers where they are cooked outdoors in huge pots on propane burners with lots of lard from the local hogs, deep-fried turkeys are no hassle. Outside of the bayou, I have my reservations.

In order to try this recipe, I had to buy $200 worth of equipment: a 10-gallon stockpot (my little ol' six-gallon pot was way too small), a deep-frying basket insert to fit into the pot, a 12-inch propane gas burner (with at least 100,000 BTUs), a deep-frying thermometer (preferably with a long stem) and five gallons of vegetable oil. The turkey cost $10.

And disposing of the dirty cooking oil took some thought. The city health department told me to flush it away. Seriously, you may want to share the costs with your guests, unless you are sure you want to keep the equipment yourself.

Of all the turkey cooking methods, this takes the most organization. You must keep your wits about you, so stay away from the Bloody Marys. Also, don't allow kids and pets to come near the pot.

Place the propane burner on a level dirt or grass surface. Splattering oil will stain concrete driveways, and wood decks could catch fire. Do not fry turkeys in attached buildings, such as garages or near bushes. Of course, in inclement weather, the area must be covered. Do not leave the burner, not for even a second. I made this mistake, and when I returned, found that some paper had blown onto the burner and started a scary fire. Have a fire extinguisher or a box of baking soda nearby.

You will get oil on your clothes, so wear old ones. An apron is not enough protection.

Many of those Internet recipes from pseudo-gourmets inject the bird with spicy liquid seasonings from a marinating syringe, although the herbs and spices in the recipe I tried wouldn't go through the tiny nozzle. Anyway, this seasoning detracts from the natural turkey flavor. It does absolutely no good to season the bird with salt, pepper, spice rubs or the like, as they wash off into the oil. Allow your guests to season their own servings with salt, pepper and hot red pepper sauce. A squeeze of fresh lemon juice is also an excellent accent.

Buy the vegetable oil at a wholesale warehouse club or Asian grocer for the best price. While some cooks often use rendered lard, and many cooks suggest expensive peanut oil, regular oil works just as well. Save the oil container, as you will need it to dispose of the used oil. Cool the oil completely (let it stand overnight in the pot if necessary), and funnel it back into its container for disposal. (Do not even think about using the oil again. It is very easy for previously used oil to catch fire when reheated. You must factor the oil into your budget.)

Heat the oil to 390 degrees F. Watch it carefully, because if it begins to smoke (usually at around 410 degrees F), the turkey will have an off flavor. When the turkey is added to the hot oil, the temperature will drop. Adjust the heat as needed to keep the oil around 365 degrees F.

The amount of oil called for here works for a 10-pound turkey. To double-check the amount of oil needed, place the turkey in the pot and fill the pot with water until it reaches 1 to 2 inches above the turkey. (To allow for the inevitable oil bubbling, the pot must never be more than two-thirds full.) Remove the turkey and measure the amount of water. Dry the turkey and the pot very well to reduce splattering before adding the oil.

The frying basket keeps the turkey from touching the bottom of the pot, where it could burn. If you can't locate a basket, place a large collapsible metal vegetable steamer or colander in the pot before adding the oil. (Some deep-fried turkey equipment suppliers - yes, there are such companies! - sell turkey holders, but they have to be lowered into the oil with some kind of a hook, like a fireplace poker.)

Small 10- to 14-pound turkeys work best. If you have a lot of guests, cook two birds. Cover the first bird loosely with foil to keep warm while the second bird fries.

Do not stuff turkeys for deep-frying. Bake stuffing on the side for the perfect partner.

Be sure your propane tank is full. You don't want to run out of gas in the middle of frying.

Propane burners are available at propane gas suppliers and outdoor furniture stores. Be sure the burner comes with hose and regulator units and an adapter that fits your propane tank. It is a good idea to take your tank to the store to be sure everything fits properly. The other equipment can be purchased at restaurant supply stores.

There are many Web sites that have all the equipment for deep-frying turkeys - a site-search will reveal many sources. One supplier is the Cajun Shoppe, P.O. Box 168, Lake Charles, La. 70602; [phone].

TURKEY:

1 (10- to 14-pound) fresh turkey

Salt, hot red pepper sauce and fresh lemon wedges for serving

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT:

1 (10- to 12-gallon) stockpot

1 (12-inch) propane gas burner with at least 100,000 BTUs (an electric hot plate will not work)

5 gallons vegetable oil

1 deep-frying thermometer, attached to a long piece of flexible wire

1 large deep-frying basket insert for stockpot

Large oven mitts

1 large roasting pan

For Turkey, reserve neck and giblets for another use. Rinse turkey well, inside and out, with barely warm water to help remove chill from bird. Pat completely dry, inside and out, with lots of paper towels. You do not want any moisture at all on turkey, or it will splatter dangerously when it goes into oil.

Fold turkey wings akimbo behind shoulders. Remove hock lock and do not tie drumsticks together. Place turkey on a large wire rack and let stand while heating oil.

Place stockpot on burner and fill with oil. Attach deep-frying thermometer to pot handle with a thin, flexible wire so its tip is submerged 1 to 2 inches into oil. Light fire and heat oil to 390 degrees F. This will take about 30 minutes, depending on burner's efficiency. Be sure that flames are not licking outside of pot.

Place well-dried turkey, breast first, in basket. Wearing oven mitts, carefully lower basket into oil. Oil will bubble up dramatically, so don't be surprised. Lift up turkey and dip again into oil 3 to 4 times before leaving in pot. This allows oil temperature to gradually adjust to turkey and prevents oil from boiling over. Fry turkey, allowing about 3 1/2 minutes per pound, until golden and a meat thermometer inserted in thickest part of thigh registers 175 degrees F (temperature will rise 5 to 10 degrees F while turkey stands), 40 to 49 minutes. Adjust heat as needed to maintain oil temperature at 365 degrees F.

Lift basket out of oil and transfer to roasting pan. Drain turkey completely, especially body cavity, allowing oil to drain into roasting pan. Let turkey stand at least 20 minutes before carving.

Carve and serve, letting each guest season turkey with salt, hot pepper sauce and lemon juice from wedges. Makes 10 to 12 servings.