Cultural tourism in Mondesa: Charlotte Shigweda, nanny turned entrepreneur, shows tourists another side of Namibian life--the township of Mondesa. Henriette Lamprecht took a tour with her ...

Mahango porridge. Oshigari. Evanda. Omagungu. All dishes presented on the menu of a typical Mondesa Cultural Tour. Charlotte Shigweda, born and bred in Mondesa, Swakopmund, takes tourists on a grassroots tour to the place she calls home and describes as a 'melting pot of cultures.' To many people, Mondesa is just a name on a sign next to the road into town. But on further investigation, it reveals a unique culture of lives shared by Oshiwambo-, Herero- and Damara-speaking people. "I was born and raised here. I know it like the palm of my hand. Everybody knows you. We're like a family," says Charlotte proudly.

Charlotte's dream of sharing Mondesa with the rest of the world became a reality in June last year. Working as a nanny for a couple who themselves are in the tourism business, Charlotte was asked to put together a tour for their overseas clients. "Tourists want to meet the people of Namibia. They want to know about their different lifestyles, beliefs and cultures," she explains.

With the help of friends in her community, she compiled a route through the streets of Mondesa with various stopovers where visitors can sample true Owambo food and buy 'Made in Mondesa' articles. "I've had a lot of help and encouragement from my employers. They supported me all the way and were ready to help with knowledge and advice."

Filling body and soul

Charlotte's first clients were a group of Italians who described the tour as uplifting and exciting. After her first sweet taste of success as a tour guide, Charlotte's employers prompted her to make it official and run it as her own business. Along came the Namibian Young Entrepreneurs Competition. Charlotte compiled an official business plan for Mondesa Cultural Tours, sent it off to the organisers, and the rest, as they say, is history! In October she was declared one of the winners and part of her prize is a course on skills management as well as the supply of equipment to get her office up and running.

When you participate in a Mondesa Cultural Tour, you've got to sit back and let the smells, vibes and cultures of the suburb fill your body, mind and soul. Tourists are picked up at their various establishments by a taxi, driven by one of Charlotte's friends. African music sets the pace for the journey. First up is a drive through Mondesa with Charlotte explaining some of its background and history.

"I talk about the history of various buildings. For example, the TB clinic used to be the hospital and the HIV counselling offices are today located in what used to be the mortuary!" The development of Mondesa dates back to the 1950s. "People came from all over Namibia to find employment in Swakopmund. Mondesa became a home to many Owambo, Damara, Nama and Herero people who stayed in the various locations (lokasies). I myself grew up in the Damara location."

Delicacies for the brave

Perhaps the most significant symbol of the 'unity in diversity' of Mondesa is the street names. "The community had the opportunity to decide which residents should be honoured. Most of them nominated those that played a significant role or lived in that street the longest!" explains Charlotte who grew up in Augustinus Garoeb Street, named after Mondesa's own 'chief' who until today plays advisor to its many residents. Chances are good that you will meet Mr. Goriseb, a proud resident of Goriseb Street, in person!

Next stop is an open market where you can browse and buy traditional dresses, baby carriers and jewellery. Traditional foods are also there for the tasting, including evanda (spinach) and, for those who are brave enough, the rare delicacy of mopanie worms.

From here, tourists pay a visit to Sophie Shigweda's house, Charlotte's proud mom, who shows the visitors first hand the many uses of mahango. Meme Frieda Venasiu, living in the DRC-settlement, then hosts you to a true Owambo feast of mouthwatering delicacies. On the menu are mahango, oshigari (bean soup), evanda and omagungu. "The tourists love this part of the tour, being part of a traditional Owambo meal. They have many questions for Meme Frieda about her dress and the preparation of the food."

Charlotte says the thought of eating a mopanie worm isn't foremost in most of the tourists' minds. But after a bit of coaxing, one or two are always willing to take the big step! "Many confess that it's not bad at all and that it tastes likes spinach!" Another woman who plays a significant role in Charlotte's tour is Meme Angelika, who introduces visitors to the traditional dress and world of the Herero. "I wanted to make the tour multi-cultural, by representing the different people and cultures of Mondesa," explains Charlotte. At Meme Angelika's home, you get the chance to buy a doll adorned in the distinctive and beautiful Herero dress.

"Tourists can see how the dolls are made and Meme Angelika is ready to explain their significance and origin. They are always eager to buy a special memento of their visit to Mondesa and many a Herero doll has been promptly baptised 'Angelika'!"

Mondesa Cultural Tours ends with a traditional dance performed by local children. "The tours take place in the afternoon when the children are not at school. They don't receive money for their performances; instead I buy them necessities for school at the end of each month."

Each person involved in the success of the tour, from the taxi-driver, the children, to Meme Frieda and Angelika, benefits directly from money spent by the tourists. "I have included people that I know and are part of my life. This way they get an income and exposure," explains Charlotte.

Humble, but homely and healthy

But Charlotte's dreams do not end here. Mondesa Cultural Tours is just a stepping stone towards something bigger. "There are quite a few things I would love to add. I would like to include Nama and Damara women who make beautiful jewellery, It's important to me to include women and thereby develop their skills and self-confidence. I also feel that children should become more involved, seeing that they are the future generation."

Charlotte hopes to expand Meme Frieda's home into a bed-and-breakfast, presenting tourists with a chance to overnight in Mondesa. "It's mostly older people that take part in my tours, who aren't interested in visiting shebeens or night clubs. I love a place and home that is clean and well presented. People shouldn't experience a visit to Mondesa as dirty and smelly. They must know that even though we live in humble homes or shacks, we have a good and healthy life." When her office is up and running, she also hopes to provide a space for the many artists of Mondesa to exhibit their various crafts.

But her biggest dream and hope is to establish a place where children can meet after school, offered the opportunity to participate in activities such as drama classes, singing, dancing and reading. A mom of three children herself, Charlotte realises the importance of education and the chance to gain knowledge outside school walls. "I didn't grow up in a rich family. My mom raised seven children on her own on a small salary. The first time I ever travelled outside of Swakopmund was when I was 20 years old and paid a visit to family in Rundu! But this is my home, this is where everybody knows me and I feel welcome and needed. Mondesa and its people are my life."