Cuban family cooking in a vegetarian kitchen.

THERE ISN'T ANY QUESTION about it--food ties families together. Recipes are passed down through generations. Family history is recorded in the dishes we prepare when all of the relatives get together under the same roof. We remember a familiar smell wafting from the kitchen, enticing people to gather around the table to share sustenance and love--of which there is no difference.

I am a college student who lives at school most of the year. Eating with the family, let alone eating good food in general, has become a rare treat. Whenever I come home, familiar aromas welcome me back--black beans simmering in a large pot, fresh garlic and onions, cumin, and caramelized plantains.

It used to be that I would walk in the door and welcome something else--the smell of some sort of meat roasting in the oven. My mother is Cuban, and Cuban food is not exactly vegetable-based. Meat, especially pork, is a staple in the Cuban household. Imagine being a half-Cuban daughter, trying to explain to your Cuban mother why you don't eat meat anymore. First, she'll give you a look, raising her eyebrows in disapproval. You know what she's thinking--"What have they been teaching you in that liberal arts school of yours?" Then, she'll ask you what you're planning on eating if you don't eat meat. She'll remind you that it's not exactly a common thing for a person in this family to become vegetarian. "What will you eat when we go to abuela's (grandmother's) house?"

This got me thinking. Though meat is no longer an option in my diet, that shouldn't mean I have to give up my family's cooking. I can be vegetarian and still continue preparing and eating traditional dishes. It just required a little experimenting. I discovered that, in addition to a few things that were already vegetarian, many Cuban dishes translate perfectly into vegan dishes. Here are a few of my favorites.

FRIJOLES NEGROS
(BLACK BEANS)

(Serves 6)

Though cooking Cuban black beans
might seem like a gimme, I rarely
have had a version as good as my
mother's. Her recipe is far more
flavorful than any other I've tasted
and deserves recognition. This version
replaces the usual chicken broth with
vegetable broth without losing any
of the flavor.

1 pound dry black beans
5 1/2 cups water, divided
1 Tablespoon salt
2 bay leaves
1 cube vegetable bouillon
2 medium white onions, minced
1 green bell pepper, minced
2 pimentos, minced
2 cloves garlic, crushed and minced
1 teaspoon cumin
1 teaspoon oregano
4 Tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil,
  divided
2 Tablespoons sugar (Use your favorite
  vegan variety.)
1 Tablespoon white vinegar

Rinse the beans thoroughly, put
them in a bowl, and add water to
cover the beans. Soak overnight.

Once the beans have soaked,
place them in a large stockpot
with the remaining water, salt,
and bay leaves. Bring to a boil and
simmer until soft, approximately
1 1/2 hours.

Add the bouillon, onions,
green peppers, pimentos, garlic,
cumin, oregano, and 2 Tablespoons
of olive oil. Simmer and
stir periodically. Beans will begin
to thicken.

When beans coat the back of
a wooden spoon, they are almost
done. Add the remaining olive oil,
sugar, and vinegar, and mix thoroughly.
The beans will be ready to
serve, preferably over white rice.

Note: This dish will last for
approximately a week in the
refrigerator and for a few months
in the freezer. It tends to get better
as time goes on and the flavors
mingle with one another.

Total calories per serving: 383

Carbohydrates: 58 grams

Sodium: 1,182 milligrams

Fat: 10 grams

Protein: 17 grams

Fiber: 13 grams

MADURES FRITOS
(FRIED RIPE PLANTAINS)

(Serves  6)

Fried ripe plantains--sweet and
slightly toasty from being caramelized--are
extremely satisfying next
to black beans and rice.

1 cup canola oil
3 yellow-black plantains, peeled and cut
  into 2-inch slims

Heat the oil in a skillet. When oil
begins to smoke slightly, fry the
plantains until golden brown.
Drain on paper towels. Serve hot.

Total calories per serving: 86

Carbohydrates: 14 grams

Sodium: 1 milligram

Fat: 4 grams

Protein: 1 gram

Fiber: 1 gram

CROQUETAS DE  FRIJOLES
(BEAN CROQUETTES)

(Makes about 20)

Traditional Cuban croquetas have
either ham or cheese in them. Since
these were one of my favorite foods
as a kid, it was imperative for me
to develop a meatless alternative
to them once I became vegetarian.

One 15-ounce can black beans
One 15-ounce can pinto beans
1/2 cup grated carrots
1/2-3/4 teaspoon finely minced canned
chipotle pepper, depending on how
much spice you like
Approximately 1 teaspoon adobo sauce
(available in the Latino foods sections
of most grocery stores)
1/2 teaspoon cumin
1 cup chopped onions
2 garlic cloves, crushed
Olive oil to saute onions and garlic
Salt and pepper to taste, divided
1 cup cracker meal (usually located
near the bread crumbs in supermarkets)
1/2 cup soymilk
Canola oil for deep-frying

Drain the beans and place them
in a medium mixing bowl. With
a potato masher, mash until beans
are smooth. Add carrots, chipotle
peppers, adobo, and cumin. Mix
until uniform.

In a small skillet, saute onions
and garlic in olive oil, seasoning
with a little salt and pepper. When
onions are translucent, turn off
the heat and mix the onions and
garlic with the beans. Place mixture
in the refrigerator for approximately
one hour.

In a small mixing bowl, combine
the cracker meal with a little
salt and pepper to season. Lay
out a 1' x 1' sheet of waxed paper.
Roll the bean mixture out into
logs measuring approximately
3 inches by 1 inch. Lightly dip
each one in soymilk, and proceed
to roll them in the cracker meal.

When croquetas are rolled,
heat a large pot with enough
canola oil to deep-fry the croquetas.
Use a slotted spoon to lower each
croqueta into the hot oil and fry
until it turns light golden brown.
Drain on paper towels. Serve hot
with ketchup.

Notes:

* You may freeze breaded croquetas
before frying them. They
will keep for several months.
They will keep for a week or
so in the refrigerator, but they
will get soggy right away.

* The best way to eat leftover
croquetas is the Cuban way,
smashed between two pieces
of French bread with lots of
ketchup.

Total calories per serving: 169

Carbohydrates: 13 grams

Sodium: 169 milligrams

Fat: 12 grams

Protein: 3 grams

Fiber: 3 grams

PICADILLO, SIN CARNE
(GROUND HASH
WITHOUT BEEF)

(Serves 6)

This dish can be served over rice
or stuffed into Empanadillas. (See
page 16.) Textured Vegetable Protein
(TVP) substitutes well for ground
beef because it soaks up every flavor.

2 cups Textured Vegetable Protein or TVP
(available in natural foods stores and
some well-stocked supermarkets)
1 1/2 cups warm water
Extra-virgin olive oil to cover bottom
of a very large skillet
1 while onion, chopped
2 cloves garlic, crushed
One green bell pepper, chopped
One 8-ounce can tomato sauce
1/2 teaspoon thyme
1 bay leaf
1/2 teaspoon oregano
1/4 teaspoon pepper
1/4 cup white vinegar
10-12 green olives, chopped
5 capers
Salt to taste

Soak the TVP in warm water until
soft and rehydrated, approximately
5 minutes.

Cover the bottom of a very
large skillet with olive oil and heat
on high. When oil begins to smoke
slightly, throw in the onions, garlic,
and bell peppers. Once the onions
are translucent, add the TVP and
the remaining ingredients. Combine
well and simmer over very low
heat for approximately 30 minutes.
Liquid should be reduced to a
quarter of the original amount.

Serve over rice immediately
or stuff into Empanadillas.

Total calories per serving: 271

Carbohydrates: 15 grams

Sodium: 385 milligrams

Fat: 20 grams

Protein: 15 grams

Fiber: 6 grams

MASA PARA
EMPANADILLAS
(DOUGH FOR BAKED
TURNOVERS)

(Makes 16 large empanadillas)

Empanadillas, known as empanadas
in South America, are fist-sized
pockets of crisp dough filled with
just about anything you can imagine.
Picadillo is especially good in
them, but you can try anything from
mashed potatoes to tofu to chocolate
and nuts.

3 cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 cup nonhydrogenated vegan margarine
1/2 cup vegetable shortening
1/2 cup warm water

Additional flour, as needed

In a large bowl, combine flour,
salt, and baking powder. Add
margarine and shortening and
blend with your hands to make
a coarse meal. Add water and mix
well, adding more flour or water
to make a soft dough. Knead in
the bowl until smooth and elastic.
Cover bowl with plastic and allow
dough to rest for 30 minutes.

On a lightly floured surface,
roll dough into a log. Cut dough
into sixteen 2-inch rounds. With
a lightly floured rolling pin, roll
out each circle until it has a diameter
of approximately 5 inches.

In each circle, place approximately
2 heaping Tablespoons of
the filling of your choice in the
center. Moisten the edge of half
the circle with water, fold the
dough in half, and press firmly
to seal. Crimp the edges with a
fork and pierce the top to allow
steam to escape during baking.
Refrigerate for 30 minutes.

Preheat oven to 375 degrees.
When chilled, place empanadillas
on a large baking sheet and bake
for 20 minutes or until lightly
browned. Let cool for 5 minutes
and serve.

Note: Baked empanadillas last no
longer than 2-3 days in the refrigerator
before they become soggy.
However, if you freeze them before
you bake them, they will last for
months.

Total calories per empanadilla

shell (without filling): 185
Carbohydrates: 18 grams
Sodium: 272 milligrams
Fat: 11 grams
Protein: 2 grams
Fiber: 1 gram

ARROZ CON LECHE
(RICE PUDDING)

(Serves 6)

A vegan version of the popular
dessert.

One 14-ounce can unsweetened coconut
milk
2 1/2 cups spymilk
A little lemon zest
Pinch of salt
One 2-inch cinnamon stick
1/2 cup short-grain rice, such as arborio
or Valencia-style rice (available in the
gourmet section of many supermarkets)
1/3 cup sugar (Use your favorite vegan
variety.)
1/4 cup raisins (optional)
2 Tablespoons nonhydrogenated vegan
margarine
1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
Ground cinnamon for sprinkling

In a heavy, non-stick 4-quart
saucepan, bring milks, zest, salt,
and cinnamon stick to a boil.
Add rice, reduce heat to low,
and barely simmer for an hour,
stirring very frequently. Stir in
sugar and raisins and continue
cooking and stirring, making
sure none of the ingredients
stick to the bottom of the pot.
Stir until very creamy.

Remove from the heat and
discard the zest and cinnamon
stick. Stir in margarine and vanilla.
Serve at room temperature or
chilled, garnished with a few
sprinkles of cinnamon.

Note: This dessert lasts approximately
a week in the refrigerator.

Total calories per serving: 306
Carbohydrates: 29 grams
Sodium: 56 milligrams
Fat: 20 grams
Protein: 5 grams
Fiber: 3 grams

Bequests

The Vegetarian Resource Group depends on the generous contributions of our members to continue our educational projects. Your will and life insurance policies enable you to protect your family and also to provide a way to give long-lasting support to causes in which you believe. The VRG is a tax-exempt organization. Bequests are tax-deductible for federal estate tax purposes. To be sure your wishes are carried out, please speak with your attorney specifically about writing the correct information in your will. One suggested form of bequest is: I give and bequeath to The Vegetarian Resource Group, Baltimore, Maryland, the sum of--dollars (or if stock, property, or insurance policy, please describe). For more information, contact The Vegetarian Resource Group at P.O. Box 1463, Baltimore, MD 21203, or call [phone].

Cecilia Peterson wrote this article while doing an internship with The Vegetarian Resource Group.