Cream of the crop; EATING OUT This Italian diner is an institution for shoppers and the fab, plain vanilla ice-cream sets it apart DINO'S 35 SAUCHIEHALL STREET, GLASGOW.

Byline: BY TAM COWAN 

Strange as it may seem, one of the toughest things to order in any restaurant is - wait for it - a bowl of ice-cream.

Yep, a bowl of ordinary vanilla ice-cream with absolutely nothing on it.

And that's because the people in the kitchen can never resist the temptation to what's best decribed as "fart about" with our food.

While I'm usually busy tucking into the cheese and biscuits, two of my regular dining companions enjoy nothing more than a simple scoop of ice-cream to round off a meal. No cream (fresh or skooshy), no raspberry sauce, no hundreds and thousands, no chopped nuts, no nothing.

Just plain ice-cream.

Amazingly, though, that's exactly what my mate Davie got at this week's place and he now wonders if this triumphant moment is enough to merit a Hot Plate Award?

Not quite, I'm afraid. But I'm happy to say Dino's - a Glasgow institution that's been feeding Sauchiehall Street for what seems like 300 years - still deserves a really good write-up.

There's something comforting about this Italian cafe-restaurant and I would recommend it as the perfect place to chill out before, during or after a shopping marathon in Glasgow city centre.

But only if you can get a table, of course...

On the Wednesday lunchtime we popped along, Dino's was going like a fair. Even in mid-November, the extra tables outside were mobbed and I'm still not sure if they were occupied by smokers, polar bears or folk keen to enjoy a free view of the Ann Summers shop next door.

Self-billed as The Place To Eat, I couldn't agree more at this time of year. Honestly, folks, one bowl of their thick, filling Tuscan bean soup and you'll be able to hibernate until the spring. I think Dino's actually opened its doors in the 1970s and, who knows, that may have been the first and last time the painter and decorators paid a visit.

But who cares? There's a lovely retro feel to the place and I wouldn't change it one little bit.

I love the checked tablecloths, I love watching the waiters going about their business at 80mph and, if I just pop in for a coffee, I love the enormous yum-yums served in the cafe next door.

Sorry, Gregg's, but your version simply doesn't stand a chance. Service is terrific.

Every customer is made to feel like a long lost relative and when I spilled the contents of a full wine glass all over the shop, the tablecloth, crockery and cutlery were replaced before any of the other diners had the opportunity to point the finger and start sniggering.

(Incidentally, a large glass of the house white costs pounds 4.50, but I'm convinced you receive almost the entire bottle).

All the usual pastas and pizzas appear on the menu and there's a wide range of fish, beef and vegetarian dishes, but I've always liked the sound of the veal dish called scaloppa Sofia Loren.

Wouldn't it be great if our Scottish restaurants followed suit?

"Ready to order, sir?"

"Yes, I'll have the mussells Molly Weir, followed by mince and totties Dorothy Paul and then the clootie dumpling Elaine C Smith..."

Anyway, back at Dino's, my pal Davie started with a rather lavish plateful of smoked salmon with prawn cocktail. Beautifully presented and with a lovely fresh look, I reckon this would have been more than enough as a main course - especially at lunchtime.

However, he still enjoyed the perfectly cooked sea bass that followed and, yes, he's still raving about that plain ice-cream.

Let's forget the a la carte stuff, though. You see, folks, what I'd really like to flag up at Dino's is the fantastic three-course lunch menu for just pounds 7.95.

I started with the minestrone (still the best in Glasgow, I reckon) before enjoying a decent sirloin steak with trimmings (including handmade onion rings). Okay, plumping for the sirloin meant a pounds 2.50 charge but that is still terrific value for money. Cheers, Dino's.

And here's to the next 300 years...

TAM'S HOT PLATE CONTENDERS

DINO'S

Tel: [phone]

Open: Seven days

Wheelchair access: Yes

Bill for two

(with wine): pounds 55

Food: 5/5 - terrific

Service: 5/5 - best in the business

Decor: 3/5 - no complaints

Toilets: 3/5 - ditto

Value: 5/5 - top marks for the lunchtime special

Total: 21/25

23/25 Voujon, 107 Newington Rd, Edinburgh. Tel: [phone]

22/25 The Grill @ Dakota Eurocentral, Shawfoot Road, Motherwell. Tel: [phone]

22/25 Mother India's Cellar, 28 Westminster Terrace, Glasgow. Tel: [phone]

21/25 Dino's, 35 Sauchiehall Street, Glasgow. Tel: [phone]

21/25 No.28, 28 West Princes St, Helensburgh. Tel: [phone]

20/25 Platform 1, Stow Brae, Paisley. Tel: [phone]

20/25 La Tasca, 9 South Charlotte St, Edinburgh. Tel: [phone]

19/25 La Capannina, Main Street, West Calder. Tel: [phone]

19/25 Blues Bar And Brasserie, Pleasure Beach. Blackpool. Tel: [phone] or 0845 3673333

17/25 South Bistro, 47 South Street, Perth. Tel: [phone]

The current Hot Plate winner is Catch 22, 158 Bath Street, Glasgow.

0141 331 6222

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DI-LICIOUS... Tam loved the Italian food being served at Dino's' WELL BREAD... Italian delights