Craft's unpretentious approach is living up to the hype.

THESE days it seems every hot new restaurant opening in Los Angeles is helmed by a celebrity chef. With the proliferation of cooking shows on television, chefs are breaking out as the new rock stars of the entertainment world. This July saw the ultimate in restaurant smackdowns when Tom Colicchio of Bravo's "Top Chef" opened Craft on the same day as Mario Batali's Osteria Mozza. Already an established concept with locations in New York, Dallas, and Las Vegas, Craft settled into Century City in the shadow of the new Creative Artists Agency headquarters and has quickly become the lunch spot for the Hollywood crowd. But does this trendy spot live up to all the hype?

Even after being open more than two months, it is not easy to get a lunch reservation on a Friday. When calling that morning, I was told that they could seat us--after 2 p.m. Instead we showed up without a reservation and took our chances. The hosts are incredibly gracious with none of the attitude expected from an "it" restaurant. The management has wisely chosen to not book to capacity in order to allow the staff to settle in, a philosophy that is both admirable and bodes well for longevity. We were seated inside 15 minutes.

There is not a bad table in the room. Banquettes are placed in the middle of the room and the small tables clustered around them are every bit as inviting as the booths along the wall. Floor-to-ceiling windows are draped with gauzy linen and provide a view of the cabanas arranged along the grassy knoll. Exposed light bulbs hang low from the ceiling, but the room feels warm despite its modern flourishes.

This decidedly unpretentious approach filters through every aspect of Craft. The menu is a single sheet arranged into columns with little or no explanation of the dishes, but the staff is well-suited to steer you in the right direction. Rather than being an annoyance, this dialogue encouraged us to be adventurous, ordering dishes I would have never considered.

Starting with the appetizers, we order boldly: pork belly with Madras curry. An unusual choice, but a signature dish--and it is fantastic. We are so vocal in our satisfaction that a neighboring diner sheepishly inquires what we are eating. We offer a cube of the rich, fatty meat, but he foolishly turns it down out of politeness. The sardines with esplette pepper, while very good, cannot compete with this hands-down favorite.

The salads are gorgeous and colorful when they arrive. The heirloom tomato salad with its multi-colored fruit and just-opened basil seeds resembling caviar looks like modern art against the plate. Likewise, the baby beet and gorgonzola salad skips over the greens and focuses on the coupling of the powerful cheese and sweet starchiness of the tender beets.

The entrees are very simple in execution, which would be a let-down if they weren't cooked so perfectly. Craft focuses on seasonal ingredients and at this time the wild Alaskan salmon is at its peak--medium rare at the server's suggestion and served with a cucumber vinaigrette.

These understated main courses are wisely offered a la carte with the option of ordering from a rotating list of seasonal sides, served family-style. The gnocchi is a perfect accompaniment to a lighter dish, but we go all out and pair it with the summer squash. The sweet corn is almost too sweet if you have never had the opportunity of buying it roadside in Iowa, but I have, and it is spot on with little butter or salt.

The French beans are a must, but the piece de resistance is the assorted roasted mushrooms. Preferring mushrooms in very small doses, I am wary of an entire plate of the stuff, but the gamble paid off. The chanterelles and hen-of-the-woods are joined with several other varieties that are identified by our gloriously patient server who repeats it all when we have forgotten a moment later. They are buttery and delicious, and the different textures and shapes dominate the memorable experience.

The dessert menu features several appealing options, but is mainly populated with more simple offerings such as fruit, cheese, and an assortment of sorbets, gelatos, and ice creams. The chocolate tart is sprinkled with hazelnuts and a bit of salt, adding a savory dimension, and paired with a vanilla nut teccorino gelato.

Riding the wave of Tom Colicchio's newfound celebrity, his latest effort proves that some things do live up to the hype in Los Angeles. As deals are made and weekend box-office figures are discussed at the next table, you can see that Craft will have an audience for some time built solely on this hip room and the buzz surrounding it. More interesting than this scene is what the second act will bring.

CRAFT

Food: ****

Service: ****

Atmosphere: ****

Where: 10100 Constellation Blvd., Los Angeles, 90067. Cross Street: Avenue of the Stars

When: Monday through Friday, 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.; Monday through Thursday, 5 to 10 p.m; Friday and Saturday 5 to 11 p.m.

What to Try: Pork belly, heirloom tomato salad, beet and gorgonzola salad; guinea hen; assorted roasted mushrooms; gnocchi; salty chocolate tart; sweet corn and smoked chocolate cherry ice creams

Parking: Valet, $8

Price range: Lunch appetizers, $11-17; entrees, $15-28; sides, $9-15

Reservations: [phone]

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

Reviewer Lindsey Styrwoll can be reached at [e-mail].