Cowboy country; VIRGINIA HEART put on her chaps and got in the saddle for a ranch holiday in the old Wild West.

Byline: STEVE RACE

CALLING the Apache "the People of the Woods" might sound out of kilter with their bloodthirsty warrior image. The tribe fought fiercely to retain their hunting grounds, crushing the bones of their captives for amusement. However, centuries later, there is a stillness and serenity that pervades, and this feeling of escapism draws travellers from across the globe to the Grapevine Canyon Working Ranch in Arizona.

Unspoilt and isolated at 85 miles from Tucson, the setting conjures up images of warriors at battle. Legendary Apache chieftains, including Cochise and Geronimo, once inhabited the surrounding valley and the slopes of the Chiricahua Mountains. Centuries before they arrived, primitive settlers from the Dragoons culture laid claim to the land. Colorado River views Offering more than a simple riding holiday, a rich tapestry of Native American history is contained within the area - remnants of at least two primitive Indian villages are only a mile away from the ranch.

If you stand still and close your eyes you can almost hear the subdued shuffle of the Indian ponies' hooves as they trail over Grapevine Pass to their camp, deep in the rugged mountains. The well-trodden trails lead travellers upwards for tremendous views of the Colorado River Valley. Three seasonal waterfalls line the same path and a gigantic patch of wild grapevines run for over 100ft stretching from canyon wall to canyon wall. Blending seamlessly into the wil- derness, the Grapevine Canyon Ranch has an ethos that stays true to the romance and intimacy of its surroundings.

The owners only accept children aged over 12 years and they limit guest numbers to 30 - appealing factors, which add a retreat-like quality to the stay. Testing your mettle For some, the idea of recharging their batteries might mean lying horizontal on a secluded island, but wilderness ranching offers a different kind of R&R that leaves you feeling invigorated and refreshed. Whether you're a novice or an accomplished rider, there's also a sense of being challenged - the rocky ground testing your mettle at every turn. Regardless of experience all guests take a morning trail ride as an introduction to their horses, western riding techniques, and the desert-to-mountain terrain, before joining the ranch's programme.

While riding is the main activity there are a range of pursuits on offer and you can choose to do as little or as much as you like - perhaps combining cattle herding with a lazy afternoon spent by the pool. Scent of wild flowers However, the most appealing aspect on this and many other ranch stays across the US is the cost. Once you touch down in the destination all your accommodation, meals and ranch activities are paid for. Other activities range from dummy steer roping to team penning and horseshoes, but getting around on horseback is definitely the best way to take in the surrounding area.

Three-hour morning rides geared to ability and shorter afternoon rides are offered to guests each day. The changing scenery provides endless photo opportunities and the scent of wild flowers is intoxicating. Every Tuesday and Thursday there is a ride to the Chiricahua National Monument - a geological formation borne out of a volcanic eruption 27 million years ago. One thousand times greater than the 1980 eruption of Mount St Helens, the Turkey Creek Caldera eruption laid down 2,000ft of highly siliceous ash and pumice - the mixture fusing into a rock that eventually eroded into the spires and unusual formations of today.

Mecca for hikers A Mecca for hikers, birders and riders, the monument, at the intersection of the Chihuahuan and Sonoran deserts, and the southern Rocky Mountains and northern Sierra Madre in Mexico, also represents one of the premier areas for biological diversity in the northern hemisphere. Scenery and riding aside, it is the Native American history that makes the area around the Grapevine Canyon Ranch so inviting.

The ruins of Fort Bowie unleash the final chapter of the story, as for more than 30 years the camp was a focal point for US military operations, culminating in the surrender of Geronimo in 1886 and the banishment of the Chiricahuas to Florida and Alabama. Arizona might have its fair share of ranches, but for history buffs with a penchant for the cowboy lifestyle, the Grapevine Canyon Ranch is simply an unbeatable horseback adventure. Travel facts Ranch Rider (01509 618811, [e-mail], www.ranchrider.com) 7 night breaks in Arizona from pounds 1,406pp. Includes return flights ex-Manchester, full board accommodation, gratuities, ranch based riding, activities. Excludes transfers - car hire from pounds 187.

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IN THE BIG COUNTRY: Guests at Grapevine Canyon enjoy a morning ride. Hot tubs back at the ranch (inset) are the perfect way to get over any saddle soreness