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Cote D'Azur on the cheap


St Tropez

The lowdown low·down  
n. Slang
The whole truth: gave us the lowdown on what happened at the party.

lowdown low (inf) n he gave me the lowdown on it →


No matter how many times you go back, St Trop, as its 5,600 inhabitants
:This article is about the video game. For Inhabitants of housing, see Residency
Inhabitants is an independently developed commercial puzzle game created by S+F Software. Details
The game is based loosely on the concepts from SameGame.
 call it, never fails to disappoint. Despite the millions of visitors and rip-off prices, the place defiantly oozes glamour. St Tropez has two very different sides - the ever-fashionable meeting place for celebs and millionaires, and the unspoilt picturesque fishing village.

So if you don't mind shelling out €5 for an espresso, you can sit out on the terrace of the iconic Sennequier cafe, and enjoy the daily street show of wide-eyed tourists watching the exhibitionist exhibitionist /ex·hi·bi·tion·ist/ (ek?si-bish´in-ist) a person who indulges in exhibitionism.
exhibitionist An exhibitor exhibiting exhibitionism, see there
 nouveau riche nou·veau riche  
n. pl. nou·veaux riches
One who has recently become rich, especially one who flaunts newly acquired wealth.



[French : nouveau, new + riche, rich.
 sipping champagne on the decks of their yachts. If that doesn't float your boat, there is a wonderful nature walk round the coast from the old port all the way to the sandy beaches at Pampelonne, where you pass through dazzling Mediterranean landscapes and can even find a quiet public beach to swim without paying a fortune for sun loungers and umbrellas.

Where to eat

Not even les Tropeziens can remember the bizarre name of Le Kikouiou (route de Bonne n. 1. A female servant charged with the care of a young child.  Terrasse Verb 1. terrasse - provide (a house) with a terrace; "We terrassed the country house"
terrace

architecture - the profession of designing buildings and environments with consideration for their esthetic effect
, 00 33 4 947 98394). It's actually named after the Kenyan tribe, and those in the know flock here from the day it opens for the season at the beginning of April, through to the end of October. In an idyllic setting between a fragrant pine forest Pine forest may refer to:
  1. A forest of pine trees; see temperate coniferous forest
  2. The town of Pine Forest, Texas
 and lush vineyards, with the beach two minutes' walk away, Le Kikouiou is the most simple of locales - a wooden cabane offering grilled steaks or fish and tasty pizzas with crisp salads, while diners sit beneath shady trees drinking wine that comes direct from the owner of the adjacent vines. A main course will set you back €10-€15, while a half-litre carafe of wine costs just €6.

Back in St Tropez itself, it's difficult to avoid the tourist-trap set menus - expensive and for the most part not very good. Despite its name, Basilic Burger (place des Remparts, 00 33 4 9497 2909), does more than just burgers: owners Serge and Nicole offer salads, steaks, omelettes and other simple healthy dishes at prices that are not bumped up at night, and the €15 prix-fixe menu is a bargain. The locals love it.

Remember that the picturesque Place des Lys turns into a vast market every Tuesday and Saturday morning, and here you can stock up for a picnic, and even pick up an inviting portion of paella for only €5.

Where to stay

Finding somewhere affordable to stay in St Tropez isn't easy, but if you book far enough in advance two secluded B&Bs provide an idyllic solution. Right in the middle of the old town, squeezed in between chic boutiques, restaurants and nightclubs, are two ancient fishermen's cottages where three rooms have been stylishly tranformed into a chambres d'hote. At the B&B Rue Saint-Jean (12 rue Saint-Jean; 00 33 6160 52176; email: nicolas.paraud@wanadoo.fr; doubles from €80) you can choose between an exotic Moorish duplex, a roomy studio with marble fireplace, or a pastel yellow loft with a beamed ceiling.

Villa Ambre (Route des Plages, Quartier des Mares, 00 33 6 8010 2324, email: gape.sylvie@orange.fr, doubles from €80) is the plush home of Sylvie and François Siri, and they have added two B&B rooms whose cool decor comes straight out of World of Interiors. There's no sign on the street, and Sylvie pops outside to show guests where to drive in. Once inside, you enter a peaceful oasis whose garden looks out over vineyards. Guests have use of the swimming pool, jacuzzi and barbecue for lazy nights of grilled locally caught fish and chilled rosé wine.

Although not in St Tropez itself, Villa Ambre is just five minutes' drive away on the famous Route des Plages, and from here you can walk to the glamorous Tahiti Beach.

Cannes

The lowdown

The Cannes Film Festival Cannes Film Festival

Film festival held annually in Cannes, France. First held in 1946 for the recognition of artistic achievement, the festival came to provide a rendezvous for those interested in the art and influence of the movies.
 (which started last week and runs until 25 May) has been attracting celebrities for 70 years, but this ultimate Riviera resort has been a favourite of Europe's royalty and high society ever since it was discovered in the mid-19th century by aristocratic British travellers. So, though it is difficult to avoid a stroll down the palm-fringed Croisette, with its Hollywood-style film star handprints, this is just the facade, and Cannes has a lot more to offer. While rusting fishing smacks sit next to gleaming luxury speedboats in the old port, up above, the old town of Le Suquet is a maze of narrow, winding streets filled with restaurants and boutiques. And just across from the Palais du Cinema are two idyllic islands, Les Iles de Lerins, a 20-minute boat ride (€11 return) that transports you from the packed, expensive beaches of the Croisette to quiet sandy bays and lush Mediterranean gardens.

Where to eat

Gourmet dining can cost the earth in Cannes, but there are some great budget discoveries hidden away. Don't miss lunch at the Taverne Lucullus (4 place du Marché Forville, 00 33 4 9339 3274) for an authentic slice of local life and traditional cuisine. The bar of this bustling bistro next to the Forville food market is lined with a tempting selection of Cannois tapas - deep-fried courgette flowers, grilled red peppers and spicy meatballs - all of which are free as long as you order a drink.

At lunch there is a hearty €10.50 dish of the day, and each Friday connoisseurs come from all over the Riviera for the aioli ai·o·li  
n.
A rich sauce of crushed garlic, egg yolks, lemon juice, and olive oil.



[Provençal : ai, garlic (from Latin allium) + oli, oil (from Latin oleum
, the famous Provençal dish of salt cod Noun 1. salt cod - codfish preserved in salt; must be desalted and flaked by soaking in water and pounding; used in e.g. codfish cakes
codfish, cod - lean white flesh of important North Atlantic food fish; usually baked or poached
, vegetables and a killer garlic mayonnaise. The place is aways buzzing with colourful stall traders, and the owners, Henri and Coco, are real characters, always with a coupe de champagne in one hand.

Alternatively, in the hip rue d'Antibes neighbourhood a unique venture has just opened, Les Apprentis Gourmets (8 rue Teisseire, 00 33 4 9338 7876; lesapprentisgourmets.fr). This is a glitzy glitz   Informal
n.
Ostentatious showiness; flashiness: "a garish barrage of show-biz glitz" Peter G. Davis.

tr.v.
 hi-tech cooking school A cooking school or culinary school is an institution devoted to education in the art and science of food preparation. It also awards degrees which indicate that a student has undergone a particular curriculum and therefore displays a certain level of competency. , where you reserve the day before (by phone or online) and arrive at midday, when a chef teaches the class how to cook a main course in half an hour. You then go upstairs to the restaurant and eat what you've cooked. All for €15.

Where to stay

The Croisette may be lined with mythical palace hotels such as the Martinez, the Carlton and the Majestic, where a room - let alone a suite - costs a small fortune, but just 50 metres away in the back streets of Cannes are a host of reasonably priced two-star family-run hotels such as Hotel Blue Riva (35 rue Hoche, 00 33 4 9338 3367; hotel-blueriva.com, doubles from €56).

But the ultimate address to reserve in advance is Cottage Bellevue (7 traverse Sunny Bank, 00 33 6 2002 1338; email: jean-luc.pacaud@wanadoo.fr; from €55 breakfast included), a romantic B&B hidden away in the hills just above the city centre. The friendly Pacaud family rent out three spacious rooms, and guests have use of a lounge and a kitchen. Best of all, there is a fabulous terraced garden with exotic flowers and plants, gazebo gazebo

Lookout in the form of a turret, cupola (small, lanternlike dome), or garden house set on a height to give an extensive view. Few late-18th- and 19th-century rustic gazebos survive, but 17th-century turrets built up in an angle of the garden wall are not uncommon.
, barbecue and panoramic views.

Antibes

The lowdown

As you drive in along the coast, the first view of Antibes takes your breath away. An imposing medieval fortress juts out into the deep blue Mediterannean against a spectacular backdrop of the snow-tipped Alps. In the past, the resort has attracted painters including Picasso, Monet and Renoir. Today, it is a mega-rich jet-set crowd who moor their yachts on what the locals call Millionaires' Quay.

Antibes is actually made up of three parts: the historic old town, the idyllic peninsula of Cap d'Antibes, and the beaches, Art Deco art deco (ärt dĕkō`; är dākō`, ärt) or art moderne (är môdĕrn`, ärt)  villas and nightlife of the ever-glamorous Juan-les-Pins. There is a bustling market every morning in the centre of Antibes, perfect for stocking up for a beach picnic, while at Juan-les-Pins, you can enjoy a drink (€8) at the waterside terrace of the Art Deco Hotel Belles Rives Language
Rive (plural : rives) is a French word meaning "bank" (of a river). Geography
Rives is the name of several places: France
Rives is the name of 2 communes in France:
  • Rives, Isère in the Isère département
, once a private villa rented by F Scott Fitzgerald.

Where to eat

Don't expect stunning sea views or smartly dressed sommeliers at La Taverne du Safranier (Place du Safranier, 00 33 4 9334 8050). Le Saf, as everyone calls this brilliant bistro, has a terrace that overlooks a car park and the genial waiter, Christophe, wears jeans and T-shirt. But the food is out of this world. Using the freshest produce, the €24 three-course menu offers traditional dishes such as daube For other uses of "Daub(e)", see Daub.
Daube is a classic French stew made with cubed beef braised in wine, vegetables, garlic, and herbes de provence. Although most modern recipes call for red wine, a minority call for white wine, and the earliest recorded daube recipes call
 de poulpe - octopus slowly cooked in red wine - sea bass stuffed with an artichoke artichoke, name for two different plants of the family Asteraceae (aster family), both having edible parts. The French, or globe, artichoke (Cynara scolymus  and olive purée, and the best profiteroles smothered smoth·er  
v. smoth·ered, smoth·er·ing, smoth·ers

v.tr.
1.
a. To suffocate (another).

b. To deprive (a fire) of the oxygen necessary for combustion.

2.
 in a hot chocolate sauce you will ever taste.

Where to stay

The scenic coast road to Cap d'Antibes is an exclusive hideaway, home to millionaires including Roman Abramovitch. But there are two unbeatable addresses: La Jabotte (13 avenue Max Maurey, 00 33 4 9361 4589; jabotte.com; doubles from €81, breakfast included) resembles a cute doll's house, with 12 small but charmingly decorated rooms surrounding a shady patio garden. A comfy communal salon is painted in bright colours and doubles as an art gallery.

Almost next door, Val des Roses (6 chemin des Lauriers, 00 33 6 8506 0629; val-des-roses.com, doubles from €150 including breakfast), a late 19th-century villa with swimming pool, is more expensive, but this bijou B&B is definitely the place to splash out splash out
Noun

to spend a lot of money on a treat or luxury: she planned to splash out on a good holiday 
 for a taste of luxury. The owner, Frederik, is Belgian, and utterly spoils his guests, with freshly squeezed
For the record label, see Freshly Squeezed Music
Freshly Squeezed is a British television programme broadcast on Channel 4 from the 21 August 2006 to 25 May 2007.
 orange juice, cheeses and smoked ham, home-made jams and hot croissants laid out for breakfast. Both addresses are just 30 metres from the beach - a free one - and the historic centre of Antibes is 10 minutes' walk or a quick ride on the free public bus.

Nice

The lowdown

Nice is the de facto [Latin, In fact.] In fact, in deed, actually.

This phrase is used to characterize an officer, a government, a past action, or a state of affairs that must be accepted for all practical purposes, but is illegal or illegitimate.
 capital of the Côte d'Azur, a Grande Dame grande dame  
n. pl. grandes dames also grand dames
1. A highly respected elderly or middle-aged woman.

2.
 the French often dismiss as being pour les riches et les vieux - for the rich and the old. But it has been recently transformed into a vibrant, cultural city. Although it is difficult to drag yourself away from the majestic seafront, the Promenade des Anglais, the baroque old town with its splendid pastel palaces and churches, conceals a labyrinth of funky bars, restaurants and late-night clubs.

Up in the hills among the swanky swank·y  
adj. swank·i·er, swank·i·est
Swank.



swanki·ly adv.

swank
 villas of the exclusive Cimiez neighbourhood, the streets are named after the Prince of Wales Prince of Wales

switches places with his double, poor boy Tom Canty. [Am. Lit.: The Prince and the Pauper]

See : Doubles
 and George V George V, king of Great Britain and Ireland
George V (George Frederick Ernest Albert), 1865–1936, king of Great Britain and Ireland (1910–36), second son and successor of Edward VII.
, and there's an imposing statue of Queen Victoria, who was a regular visitor. But there are also two state-of-the-art museums, dedicated to the painters Chagall (entry €6.50) and Matisse (entry €4), who were also long-term residents. From 1 July a new initiative will see all Nice museums becoming free. Any evening, you can pick up a sleek new tram from Place Masséna and take a tour of over a dozen colossal avant-garde sculptures that are lit up at night (a ticket for the tram, which passes most of the sculptures, costs €1; the proper guided tour guided tour guide nvisite guidée;
what time does the guided tour start? → la visite guidée commence à quelle heure? 
 costs €6).

Where to eat

Of all the Riviera resorts, Nice has both the best cuisine and the most affordable prices. Everyone visits the town's colourful Marché des Fleurs, and rather than sitting down at one of the dozens of touristy restaurants lining the square, head for Chez chez  
prep.
At the home of; at or by.



[French, from Old French, from Latin casa, cottage, hut.]

chez
prep

at the home of [French]
 Theresa's
flamboyant socca stall. Socca is a thin pizza/pancake made from chickpea chickpea, annual plant (Cicer arietinum) of the family Leguminosae (pulse family), cultivated since antiquity for the somewhat pealike seeds, which are often used as food and forage, principally in India and the Spanish-speaking countries.  flour and drizzled with fruity olive oil olive oil, pale yellow to greenish oil obtained from the pulp of olives by separating the liquids from solids. Olive oil was used in the ancient world for lighting, in the preparation of food, and as an anointing oil for both ritual and cosmetic purposes. . A big portion costs only €3, and the socca itself arrives every five minutes on the back of a motorbike direct from the baker's oven.

Alternatively, the Lou Nissart (1 rue de l'Opéra, 00 33 4 9385 3449) has delicious dishes of the day at around €12, such as rack of lamb Noun 1. rack of lamb - a roast of the rib section of lamb
crown roast

rack - rib section of a forequarter of veal or pork or especially lamb or mutton

lamb roast, roast lamb - a cut of lamb suitable for roasting
 roasted with provencal herbs or petits farcis Niçois - vegetables stuffed with minced meat. A three-course set menu costs €23.

For the evening, reserve at L'Escalinada (rue Pairolière, 00 33 4 9362 1171; escalinada.fr), in the heart of the baroque old town, where the owner, Marco, makes everyone feel like his best friend. There is a full menu, with three courses, a glass of kir and a pissaladière (a local onion and anchovy anchovy: see herring.
anchovy

Any of more than 100 species of schooling saltwater fishes (family Engraulidae) related to the herring. Anchovies are distinguished by a large mouth, almost always extending behind the eye, and by a pointed snout.
 tart) at €23 , but it's worth going à la carte here just for their speciality ribambelle (€15.50, but there's enough for two), a selection of Niçois appetisers - chickpeas and onion, grilled red peppers, octopus salad, beignets of aubergine (jargon) aubergine - A secret term used to refer to computers in the presence of computerphobic third parties.  and courgette, and a frîture of sardines, baby squid and locally fished red mullet mullet: see silversides.
mullet

Any of fewer than 100 species (family Mugilidae) of abundant, commercially valuable schooling fishes found in brackish or fresh waters throughout tropical and temperate regions.
. For dessert, don't miss the fabulous tarte au citron citron (sĭt`rən), name for a tree (Citrus medica) of the family Rutaceae (orange family), and for its fruit, the earliest of the citrus fruits to be introduced to Europe from Asia.  topped with meringue.

Where to stay

You don't have to check in at the legendary Negresco Hotel to stay just by the Promenade des Anglais and the azure azure /az·ure/ (azh´er) one of three metachromatic basic dyes (A, B, and C).

az·ure
n.
Any of various dyes used in biological stains, especially for blood and nuclear staining.
 waters of the Baie des Anges. A few minutes' walk away, in backstreets Backstreets is a novel by Australian horror writer Rob Hood (Hodder Headline, 1999).It is is effectively an urban ghost story, its plot centering on a young man Kel who wakes from a coma to find that his friend Bryce is dead, and is thereafter plagued by strange dreams, which draw him to  lined with grand belle époque mansions, lies the enticing Nice Garden Hotel (11 rue du Congrès, 00 33 4 9387 3562; nicegardenhotel.com; doubles from €65). Owner Marion Hoffman has lovingly renovated nine rooms in this family-run pension, and while the decor is charming, the reason to reserve here is her secluded, luxuriant luxuriant /lux·u·ri·ant/ (lug-zhoor´e-ant) growing freely or excessively.  garden with its orange grove and fragrant flowers.

Even closer to the seafront, Villa Rivoli (10 rue de Rivoli, 00 33 4 9388 8025; villa-rivoli.com; doubles from €69) is a rather grand, though faded, turn-of-the-century villa. But the place has just been bought by a dynamic new owner, who has embarked on a total renovation of the rooms and garden, which will be completed by summer. So this is definitely the time to book, as every effort is made to make guests feel special.

The essentials

Getting around

Nice, Cannes and Antibes are linked by a scenic train route that follows the coast: a one-way ticket costs €5, while a single bus ticket, whatever the distance, is just €1. From June to October, a day-trip ferry runs from Cannes (trans-cote-azur.com), to St Tropez for €37.50, about the same price you'd pay for a day's parking there.

Getting there

Easyjet (easyjet.com) flies to Nice from Belfast, Bristol, Edinburgh, Liverpool, Newcastle and London; Bmibaby (bmibaby.com) from Birmingham, East Midlands; Flybe (flybe.com) from Exeter, Jersey, Southampton; Jet2 (jet2.com) from Leeds-Bradfod and Manchester. carrentals.co.uk has hire cars from Nice airport from about £35 a day.

Further information

· Antibes Tourism Office: 00 33 497231111; antibesjuanlespins.com

· Cannes Tourism Office: 00 33 4 9299 8422; palaisdesfestivals.com

· St Tropez Tourism Office: 00 33 4 9497 4521; ot-saint-tropez.com

· Nice Tourism Office: 00 33 892 707 407; nicetourisme.com

· Also see: guideriviera.com; tourismevar.com
Copyright 2008 guardian.co.uk
No portion of this article can be reproduced without the express written permission from the copyright holder.
Copyright (c) Mochila, Inc.

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Author:guardian.co.uk
Publication:guardian.co.uk
Date:May 18, 2008
Words:2421
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