Cosmetic hydrogels. (Gleams & Notions).

HYDROMER INC., Branchburg, NJ, specializes in developing and selling hydrophillic polymers such as permanent lubricating coatings for medical devices and anti-fog and condensation control coatings for optical plastics and packaging. It also has three products that are useful in the cosmetic industry. Its Aquatrix II system consists of two hydrogels: Part A consists of PVP in water and Part B is chitosan in water. When A and B are mixed, they form a three-dimensional structure which exhibits good cohesive and elastic properties. These gels can be filled with active ingredients such as vitamins, phospholipids, astringents, green tea and alpha hydroxy acids. It is recommended that the actives be added prior to forming the gel for even dispersion in the gel matrix.

Here's a moisturizing cream formulated with Aquatrix II. The active ingredients should be added before the Aquatrix II Part B is added.

Moisturizing Cream

Ingredient                 %Wt.
Part A
Aquatrix II Part A         2.0
Propylene glycol           4.0
Water                     58.9
Methylparaben              0.2
Triethanolamine (99%)      1.8
Aquatrix II Part B         4.0
Part B
Glyceryl stearate (and)    6.0
PEG 100 stearate
Stearic acid               6.0
Cetyl alcohol              1.0
Isopropyl myristate       15.0
Propylparaben              0.1
Dimethicone                1.0
Fragrance                  q.s.

Procedure:

Add Aquatrix II Part A to water glycol solution. Dissolve and add Aquatrix II Part B and TEA. Heat phase A in batch tank to 70[degrees]C. Heat phase B in separate container to 75[degrees]C. Add phase B to A, begin cooling to room temperature and q.s. to volume with cold water at 50[degrees]C.

A simple face mask can be made by mixing 50/50 Aquatrix Parts A and B. Active ingredients would be dissolved in Part B before mixing with Part A. It is also suggested for use in hair products, wound and burn care treatments, exfoliants and topical drug delivery.

Another product is the Aquamere series comprised of polyurethane and PVP polymers or copolymers. They have theological and film-forming properties and can complex with many organic molecules such as dyes and UV absorbers. The Aquamere S series (INCI name: PVP/dimethiconylacrylate/polycarbamyl/polyglycol ester) improves the lubricity of formulations and adds shine to hair. It has good spreading properties and, when used in shampoos, conditioners or mousses, it forms a continuous film that evenly coats hair. Other recommended uses include mascara, color cosmetics and topical actives delivery.

The Aquamere H series are solutions of PVP homopolymer and hydrophilic polyurethane in water. They differ in total polymer concentration and in the ratio of the two polymer components. The Aquamere A series has the same polymers as the H series except they are dissolved in SDA ethanol, not water. They are used in all alcohol or aqueous-alcohol formulations. Aquamere C series are solutions of cationic PVP copolymers and hydrophilic polyurethanes in water. They exhibit more substantivity to hair and skin than the H series.

A Protective Barrier

The third product is Dermaseal (INCI name: hydroxypropylcellulose/methyl-gluceth-20). It is described as an allergen blocker. It provides a non-tacky, non-greasy, flexible, invisible film that protects against environmental irritants. Some people are sensitive to certain chemicals which, with contact with the skin, cause an immune response resulting in visible skin irritation. The company tested the material on irritants such as benzyl disulfide, detergents (SLS) and plant derivatives. Results indicate that a Dermaseal-based lotion provided six hours of protection.

Hydromer also claims that Dermaseal improves the substantivity of actives in makeup and sun care products, provides lubricity, sheen and good afterfeel in skin care products and reduces tackiness. The product is available in either water or SDA-40.

HARVEY FISHMAN HAS A CONSULTING FIRM AT 34 CHICASAW DRIVE, OAKLAND, NJ 07436, [e-mail], SPECILIAZING IN COSMETICS FORMULATIONS AND NEW PRODUCT IDEAS, OFFERING TESTED FINISHED PRODUCTS. HE HAS MORE THAN 30 YEARS OF EXPERIENCE AND HAS BEEN DIRECTOR OF RESEARCH AT BONAT, NESTLE LEMUR AND TURNER HALL. HE WELCOMES DESCRIPTIVE LITERATURE FROM SUPPLIERS AND BENCH CHEMISTS AND OTHERS IN THE FIELD.