Cosmeceutical & nutraceutical trends: data points to specific anti-aging and health treatments in these emerging markets.

COSMECEUTICALS AND nutraceuticals were topics explored by both market research company Mintel and brand consultancy The Future Laboratory at In-Cosmetics in April. Providing a definition for each of these terms, Lynn Dornblaser of Mintel stated "cosmeceuticals" imply products for topical application, while "nutraceuticals" imply medication or supplements.

"These terms are ones known and understood within the industry, but not by consumers," she warned, pointing out that in some countries, the terms sound too much like "pharmaceutical," which could flag government intervention and regulation.

In her presentation, Ms. Dornblaser provided a large number of examples of each type of product as picked up by Mintel's Global New Products Database (GNPD). The most common type of cosmeceutical product seen on the database is one that is applied to the skin to firm, lift, or enhance. "These types of products are not new, although there are some new developments, such as products for specific body parts or ones with mere unusual ingredients," she stated.

In cosmeceuticals, Mintel's GNPD has found new treatments to attack many skin conditions, to address aging skin, new formats such as patches, whitening products and shimmer to help skin look young. Products that finn and lift aging skin is a key area.

Ms. Dornblaser commented, "This is probably the area in which we see the most development for cosmeceutical treatments. Every major company, at every price point, has a product to lift or finn skin."

Mintel's GNPD has also seen the growth of whitening products extend beyond Asia to Europe and the U.S. with Dior's Dior Snow and other lines.

Mintel observed the greatest nutraceutical growth in products that function from the inside out. Two major types of nutraceutical products are health care supplements and food and beverages. Examples include supplements offering multiple benefits (e.g. for skin, hair and nails), beverages containing ingredients such as aloe and collagen, drinks co-branded with a spa or beauty salon and yogurt as a key category. Ms. Dornblaser said, "The best growth potential is in beauty foods and drinks which can convey other benefits. Some products make very specific claims, while others focus on softer, general 'beauty' claims."

Many of the new nutraceutical-based products originate from Japan, especially "beauty drinks" which look like beverages but function as supplements. They come in 100g sizes and are designed to be consumed in one go. Shiseido Beauty Foods has a Collagen EX supplement drink and Ajinomoto offers Amino Vital Active Beauty jelly in a squeeze pouch.

Teas with enhanced beauty benefits are also popular in Japan, such as Sapporo Breweries' Oolong Beauty tea. Also in Japan, Morinaga Milk Industry  has a line called TBC, named after the spa Tokyo Beauty Center, which includes beverages such as aloe, fiber and one designed for weight loss.

Ms. Dornblaser concluded, "The interest in and knowledge about cosmeceuticals and nutraceuticals continues to grow organically. New types of cosmeceuticals tend to have natural ingredients that consumers know and understand. The best growth potential is in beauty foods and drinks as these can convey other benefits, including taste. For cutting edge ideas, look to Japan and keep an eye on Nestle-L'Oreal, whose joint venture should yield unique cosmeceuticals."

The Future of Technology

The Future Laboratory's presentation looked into the future of cosmeceuticals and what the industry can expect in terms of skin technologies to come. The global cosmeceuticals industry is valued at $1.8 billion and is expected to reach $3.9 billion by 2006. Speakers Martin Raymond and Chris Sanderson contended that there will be a "shift from whole general beauty needs to holistic ones." They predicted that consumers are more likely to shop and change between products as their understanding grows of what they want and why.

Some interesting statistics revealed that 40% of women apply cosmetics in their cars which has implications about their relationship with products. Some 59% of women are stressed at least once a month resulting in "pleasure revenge purchasing" when they spend more on cosmetics when under stress. Demographically, the big growth is in the over 50s, yet 80% of products are aimed at those under 25. Looking young is now the most important factor to consumers as they age.

Future trends will include borrowing pharmaceutical terms for cosmetic applications, amino peptides to make the skin more elastic, neuro mediators which are chemicals to tell the brain to be happy and the blurring of boundaries between surgery and cosmetics.

Next year's In-Cosmetics will take place on April 27-29, Fiera Milan, Italy. More info: www.in-cosmetics.com.

Imogen Matthews

Consultant to In-Cosmetics