Copycat thriller; New Paperino's repeats recipe for success.

PAPERINO'S @ 78

78 ST VINCENT STREET,GLASGOW

Located in citycentre premises previously occupied by a restaurant owned by the late extrovert bookie "Fearless" Freddie Williams, I reckon Paperino's @ 78 is a good bet.

This is the third Paperino's in Glasgow (youmaybe familiar with the other two on Sauchiehall Street and Byres Road) and I wouldn't be surprised if this has been funded by the incredibly popular pizzeria in theWestEnd.

While I was out for a drink in the area about five years ago, I noticed a queue forming at Paperino's - at 9.30pm on a Tuesday night.

Not bad, eh?

The punters are still flocking to this reliable, well-run ristorante and, speaking as a regular myself, I've always been very impressed - apart from the time 50p was added to our pounds 60 bill when the missus asked for extra chilli with her pasta.

I was slightly disappointed when I discovered it was exactly the same menu as the Byres Road branch.

"Oh well, if it ain't broke, don't fix it," said Liz, sounding a bit like Paperino's spin doctor. A fair point, I suppose.

But I wonder how many other Byres Road regulars will feel a bit deflated when they pop into the new joint and are confronted with the same old dishes?

Might I suggest they introduce two or three daily specials to freshen it up a wee bit? After five years of enjoying their excellent pizza and pasta, I know the chefs are certainly more than capable.

Oh, and one other quick point about the menu. One of the spaghetti dishes marked down as "vegetarian" includes anchovy. But they grow in the sea rather than the greenhouse.

There's a lovely open, airy feel about this new Paperino's and we grabbed a spacious table for four on the swanky mezzanine level. This is clearly a building with a rather grand history and you'll find the toilets (spotlessly clean with a rich supply of paper towels) at the top of a marble staircase. So get the shoulder pads out, girls, and glide back down like Krystle Carrington.

Thanks to the overly-familiar menu, I instinctively knew the food was going to be good.

Diane's huge starter portion of penne all'arrabiata was "well nice" and it reminded her of the pasta she'd recently enjoyed on holiday in Milan.

I had the salsiccia (sausage) version with extra chilli (no charge this time) and it was fiery hot, filling and very satisfying.

Kyle enjoyed another one of my favourites - the chunky, crunchy mozzarella sticks - and Liz put away a light, crumbly goat's cheese tart with minimum fuss.

She then savoured her own No.1 choice at Paperino's - the house speciality pasta (pappardelle alla paperino) with onion, bacon, peppers, chilli and tomato.

Kyle had a main course serving of Diane's penne all'arrabiata and his only grumble is that it was far too much.

No complaints about my cheeseburger (ask for well-done with a properly toasted bun) and I reckon Paperino's does one of the best burgers in Glasgow. The most interesting dish was Diane's zuppa di pesci - fish soup to me and you.

It's more like a hefty seafood stew and, served with good garlic bread on the side, this massive bowl featured mussels, salmon, clams, langoustines, squid, king prawns and just about anything else you care to mention from the deep blue sea.

Dessert was always going to be a struggle but Kyle just about managed a light, fluffy chocolate fudge cake that tasted homemade.

I had some of Paperino's unmissable ice-cream (it's the excellent Swissstuff Movenpick) and, totally stuffed, Diane had a lime sorbet.

Overall verdict? Really good food at reasonable city-centre prices, although pounds 23.65 for a bottle of Chianti is surely a bit OTT.

Perhaps familiarity doesn't always breed contempt.

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Keep track of Tam's reviews on the Daily Record website. Find the best places to eat out at www.dailyrecord.co.uk/ eating out. The current Hot Plate winner is Gamba,West George Street,Glasgow. 0141 572 0899

TAM'S HOT PLATE AWARD

PAPERINO'S @ 78

Address: 78 St Vincent Street, Glasgow Tel: [phone] Open: All day seven days Wheelchair access: Yes Bill for four (with wine and drinks): pounds 110 Food: 5/5 - big portions of old favourites Service: 4/5 - very good Decor: 5/5 - stunning interior modern interior Toilets: 5/5 - sparkling Value: 4/5 - no complaints, apart from the wine Total: 23/25

HARRODS THE ROTISSERIE

Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Road, London. 020 7730 1234 - 23/25

THE GRILL ON THE CORNER

21-25 Bothwell Street, Glasgow. 0141 248 6262 - 23/25

NARDINI'S

The Esplanade, Largs. 01475 675000 - 22/25

THE BRASSERIE AT ORAN MOR 

731-735 Great Western Rd, Glasgow. 0141 357 6226 - 22/25

THE VICTORIA HOTEL

55 Victoria Street, Rothesay, Isle of Bute. 01700 500016 - 22/25

MUSHTAQS

154 Almada Street, Hamilton. 01698 420076 - 22/25

CAPTION(S):

POPULAR APPEAL... Paperino's has always been a big favourite with diners in Glasgow GRAND... St Vincent Street eaterie MULTIPLE CHOICE... The seafood and pizzas at Paperino's are superb