Cooking light, cooking right: sometimes, it's not easy wearing the-white hat.

In the good old days, chefs were heroes who pampered their guests with rich foods. Then a more body-conscious climate villainized them as purveyors of saturated fats and refined carbohydrates.

Now a handful of chefs are wowing diners with fresher, lighter fare that's still heavy on taste. Welcome to the 21st Century kitchen.

"It's really challenging and that's the fun part of it," said Cary Neff, the executive chef at the famed La Costa Resort and Spa.

Chefs are being trained to meet diner's dietary challenges. At the renowned Culinary Institute of America (CIA), chefs learn that "a balanced approach on the plate is much better," said Mark Ainsworth, CHE, associate professor at the CIA.

He shows students how to reduce the fat on the plate by "adding other things that have lots of flavor."

But nobody said it was easy.

"I think chefs today are really challenged because they are trying to please [on] so many different issues," said Cherie Broussard, editor of the National Culinary Review. "And that is tough."

Neff is meeting the challenge head on with a kitchen style he calls "conscious cuisine." He emphasizes smaller portions, fresh seasonal vegetables and whole grains, and little or no sugar.

"It's a mindful approach of selecting, preparing, and energizing foods that deliver taste and nutritional benefits," said Neff, author of the cookbook Conscious Cuisine.

For a recent golf tournament at one of the resort's two PGA courses, he prepared a batch of thick smoothies for the 6 a.m. tee off. For the 10 a.m. snack, he followed up with tuna salad sandwiches.

But this wasn't your mother's mayonnaise-based tuna salad. Neff's recipe included albacore tuna, lime juice, extra virgin olive oil, chopped red onion, and fresh herbs--a nice hit of protein to fuel the golfers until lunch.

For Neff the secret is simple: "Deliver the flavor and the comfort they are used to."

Back at the Ranch ...

When guests visit Canyon Ranch Health Resort in Tucson, they expect wholesome food. But what they might not be prepared for is first class cuisine. "It's moderation, not deprivation," said Scott Uehlein, the resort's executive chef.

Canyon Ranch doesn't endorse one particular program, but instead takes a well-rounded approach to food, advocating lots of fresh fruits and vegetables (eight to 10 servings daily), high-quality cuts of meat, whole grains and--in case anyone is counting--about 1,600 to 1,800 calories.

A sample dish: chilled lobster tail presented in a carrot gazpacho, with chunks of melon, tomato, and pineapple--and garnished with tortilla strips.

"It's not brain surgery," said Uehlein, co-author of Canyon Ranch Cooks. "It's not real tough to do, but it takes thought." While he still uses butter and cream in soups, the trick is to "use them sparingly."

At Lake Austin Spa Resort, in Austin, TX, Executive Chef Terry Conlan relies on healthier products to make healthier food.

The beef and chicken are free of antibiotics and hormones--producing a leaner product, Conlan said. In addition, the kitchen buys most vegetables in season and "as much organic as is practical" and grows some of their own organic produce on site.

Conlan, who prides himself on "ordinary food, extraordinarily well made," always has a hamburger on the menu. But it's made from lean beef, served on an organic bun and, depending on the time of year, might be served with slices of tomato and onion straight from the garden.

Size Matters

Smaller portions, especially of meats and complex carbohydrates, are also popular for chefs who are cooking light.

"Four ounces raw is the standard portion size [for meats], said Uehlein, who cooks with a lot of fish, and looks for products without sulfating agents, preservatives, or whiteners--and wild-caught when possible.

"Larger portions do not necessarily equate to value," said Neff. Instead, combine a balance of flavors, colors, and textures; keep an eye on nutrition and portion size; and produce "a wonderful meal" that even leaves "room for dessert," he said.

Diet is a Four-Letter Word 

But never say "diet." Many chefs are leery of the word, equating it with come-and-go food fads. Instead, chefs are looking at the long term--enjoyable dishes ripe with flavor that deliver real nutritional value.

"The most asked for menu and diet is Atkins--the high protein diet," said Pamela Parseghian, executive food editor with Nation's Restaurant News, an industry publication. "This is what we're hearing from chefs."

The good news for country clubs and resorts is that Atkins "is a very easy diet to accommodate because they already have protein and vegetables available," she said.

At Houston's River Oaks Country Club, in the heart of cattle country, Executive Chef Charles M. Carroll, CEC, isn't hearing much demand for diet fare--Atkins or otherwise. But the typical summer menu is always on the light side, including plenty of local seasonal vegetables.

"Often we use the coulis and the oils, high-end oils," said Carroll. Many times chives pureed with oil "serves as the sauce."

Recently the club's board dined on a salad of vine-ripened tomatoes--locally grown and delivered by the farmer only hours before--with olive oil, salt, pepper, basil, Parmesan curls, and a little truffle oil. "It's clean," said Carroll.

A club favorite: pan-seared sea bass on a grilled tomato with wilted arugula, served with a yellow pepper coulis. "It's a spectacular summer dish," he said. "Very, very popular."

At the request of a member, the club replaced its regular salad dressing with a heart-healthy olive oil/canola oil blend. Not only did no one complain, no one even noticed.

At the Champaign Country Club in Champaign, IL, guests still like their "meat and potatoes," said Executive Chef Doug Richter. But there has been enough of a demand recently that they have added the Atkins shake to the snack bar menu.

Good Fat, Bad Fat

Many chefs are taking a closer look at the kinds of fats they use, and to turning heart-friendly fats like olive and canola oils, nuts, and avocados.

"It's not even the amount of fat we consume--within reason--it's the type of fat," said Conlan, author of Fresh: Healthy Cooking and Living from Lake Austin Spa Resort.

Cooks are also using a wide variety of whole grains, like quinoa.

Conlan admits that, even in the age of Atkins, he still serves white rice. But with a difference. Now it appears on the plate only in half-cup portions and paired with a yellow split pea--chana dal is a favorite--so that the dish forms a complete protein rather than the much-dreaded simple carbohydrate.

Less Fat, More Flavor

Chefs are rediscovering a myriad of ways to cook healthy, with flavor. And the rules are pretty much the same as for more traditional fare. Everything "should explode in flavor," said Ainsworth.

"Our kitchen is set up to cook healthy food," said Uehlein. "We don't own a deep-fat fryer."

But he's found that by using very thick flat bottom pans, which hold the heat, to saute over gas--he prefers Centurion by Lincoln--he can get away with using little or no oil.

The technique works especially well on a Hawaiian snapper, skin on, which Uehlein serves with a kumquat vinaigrette. "The skin [comes out] nice and crispy, and I don't have to use a lot of fat," he said.

And when he does reach for the oil, expeller-pressed canola oil and olive oil "have the healthiest omega fatty acid profiles."

When chefs want to impart a butter taste, they use--what else?--real butter "and just use a teaspoon of it," said Uehlein.

"You're not so much building it into the dish as using it as a finishing touch," said Conlan. For example, right before a piece of grilled fish goes to the table, he will paint on "a teaspoon of butter to give it a nice sheen."

Lean vs. Comfort

Diet or no diet, diners still want their comfort foods. "It's hard times," said Parseghian, and people are treating themselves. In dining rooms across the country, "small, rich desserts are selling great."

So are high calorie appetizers, like foie gras, brie, and caviar as diners enjoy "small splurges," she said.

"At LaCosta, 85 percent of the menu is prepared healthy," Neff said, adding that the other 15 percent consists of "wonderful indulgences."

So don't be afraid to include a few on the menu--in small doses.

"[Visitors] want that indulgence," said Ainsworth.

No Pale Imitations

When it comes to the healthier options, many chefs prefer to create new dishes from scratch rather than remake old favorites.

"I don't try [to] take something that's bad for you and try [to] make it good for you," said Uehlein. "You can only be disappointed. I'd rather build a dish from the ground up so you have no preconceived notions of what it is."

And chefs are also delivering familiar, comforting flavors without challenging a diner's willpower or adding to the waistline. Instead of a deep dish apple pie, check out the low-carb apple torte--a la mode with low fat ice cream--at Greenville, SC's Poinsett Club. Or the Margarita cheesecake at La Costa, and fat-free flan at Lake Austin Spa Resort.

And then there are those comfort foods that are already fairly healthy. "Roast chicken on the bone is a great comfort dish," said Conlan.

Ainsworth teaches his students to look at "tougher cuts of protein," like stew meat and short ribs. "What's required is longer cooking time and moist heat," he said, "and it falls into that whole trend of comfort food."

And sometimes, "with a little tweaking or a slightly different approach, you can keep the flavor of [a standard] dish," Conlan said. "You just romance it a little."

Chefs are also looking at their cooking styles. Roasting and barbecuing both give meat a great flavor without adding fat.

"Marinades, brines, and rubs, in place of the more traditional butter," are also good ways to add flavor, said Ainsworth. In addition, he said, "we stress a lot of reductions, not high fat sauces."

Many ethnic specialties, whether it's lean Asian fare or rustic Mediterranean cuisine, are naturally lower in fat or refined carbs than traditional American cooking.

And chefs are more interested in ethnic cuisine, said Ainsworth. At the CIA, the most popular styles are "Latin American/Caribbean, Mediterranean, and Asian--including Indian," he said. "Certainly the good thing about this is that a lot of them are plant-based and certainly better for you."

Keeping Low-Cal Customer-Friendly

Food--especially at resorts and country clubs--is a customer driven business, said Ainsworth. But some long-time clients "like what they like and it's hard to get them to try new things," he said.

His advice: break them in with something small: like an appetizer, hors d'oeuvres, or canapes.

"Introduce them slowly to the customers," Ainsworth said, adding that demonstrations and classes are other good ways to introduce lighter, healthier fare.

At the same time, keep a menu loaded with the old favorites. "As the chef at a country club, you never want to screw around with the comfort foods," said Carroll. "You have to recognize what's bringing people through the door."

But keep challenging diners' palates, Carroll said. "Give them what they want, then be creative and encourage them to try new items," he said.

River Oaks's wine dinners--sell-out events held 15 times a year--are a perfect opportunity. "I always include at least one dish they would never order," Carroll said, "to encourage them to try something else."

Part of the challenge 'm the customer-driven business of food is educating the consumers, according to many chefs.

"You've got to have creative, energetic offerings" that help guests pursue the athletic activities that attracted them to the club or resort in the first place, said Neff. As a result, diners will "leave the table feeling great."

He added, "You're going back to what food is about."

INSIDE SKINNY

The following recipe for fruit galette is from Canyon Ranch. For other recipes from the chefs quoted in this article, visit the Club Management Website at www.clubmgmt.com.

Fruit Galette
Pastry Crust:
3/4 cup all-purpose flour
1/4 cup rolled oats
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon sugar
3 tablespoons butter
2 to 3 tablespoons water
5 medium peaches, sliced *
1/4 cup sugar
4 teaspoons cornstarch
1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
Pinch ground ginger

1. In a food processor, combine
the flour, oats, salt, and sugar.
Process until oats are uniform with
the flour. Add butter and mix to the
consistency of small peas.

Add water and pulse until mixture
forms a ball. Wrap and refrigerate
at least 30 minutes before using.

2. Preheat oven to 375[degrees]. Lightly
coat a baking sheet with canola oil.

3. Mix peaches with sugar, cornstarch,
cinnamon, and ginger in a
large bowl.

4. Roll crust to a 12 inch circle
and place on baking sheet. Place
fruit mixture in the middle and fold
in edges of crust about 1 inch over
the fruit filling. Bake for 20 minutes
or until crust is golden.

Make 8 servings, each containing
approximately:

160 calories
28 gm. carbohydrate
5 gm. fat
11 mg. cholesterol
2 gm. protein
79 mg. sodium
2 gm. fiber

* Try using other fresh fruit such
as apricots, apples, or pears.
Frozen, drained berries may also
be used in the same proportions.

RELATED ARTICLE: Tips for selling healthier cuisine.

Sometimes you need to be sneaky when it comes to serving healthier fare. Here are some of the favorite tricks of top chefs:

* Fool the eye. Serve smaller portions on smaller plates. "You have to be savvy," says Scott Uehlein, executive chef at Canyon Ranch Health Resort in Tucson, AZ.

* Cut quantity, raise quality even more. At La Costa Resort and Spa, the focus is on "smaller, more select cuts" of meat, said Executive Chef Cary Neff. For instance, he uses Cervena venison, a premium deer meat from New Zealand. Or a Tyson free-range chicken product. But the better the quality, he said, the less chefs have to do to prepare the food.

"With a better beef item, the cost is more per pound, but with the difference in flavor I can serve four to five ounces rather than 10 to 12," said Neff.

Uehlein agrees. "If I'm buying quality," he said, "I don't have to cover it up."

* Keep it simple. "The big thing I find over the years, the more simple I keep everything, the better off I am," said Uehlein. "If I can keep it to seven or eight ingredients, I'm much better off than if I have 30."

* Keep regional dishes as authentic as possible. "I tend to go with whatever the culture goes with," said Terry Conlan, executive chef at the Lake Austin Spa Resort. When he prepares Asian cuisine, he likes to use the complex carbohydrates that normally might be served--like buckwheat soba noodles or green tea soba noodles. Not only does it add an authentic taste to the item, but it gives the diner a chance to try something new.

* Substitute flavor for butter. Instead of a piece of fish in beurre blanc, "add relish, salsa, or chutney," said Mark Ainsworth, CHE, associate professor at the Culinary Institute of America. Contrasting flavors--pairing smokey tastes with sweet or sour, matching spicy with bland, or soft textures with something crunchy--"are a great way to work around the crutch of fat." he said.

* Give the diner a mix of textures. "You can't have all soft and gooey on the plate," said Uehlein. "I always like a bit of crunch if I can work it in."

* Use a spray bottle to dispense cooking oil. It's a slick trick to cut the fat.

* Limit salt to a minimum. And put a shaker on the table.

* Don't be afraid of whole grains. Just keep the portions down to a reasonable amount.

* Cook with the seasons, if possible. "In the summer we do a lot with juices," said Uehlein. While in the winter, braised meats are popular.

But that's not always practical. "Here in New York [state], we have a [summer] season that's three months," said Ainsworth.

* Don't make anything "forbidden." "There are no bad foods," Neff said. The key is to offer everything in moderation--and educate the consumers.

* Listen to diners. The purpose of any dining room is to make people happy. Let them make substitutions when they need to, keep an ear out for feedback, and tune your menu accordingly. "One of the most gratifying comments I hear from guests," said Conlan, "is that they feel full but they don't feel heavy."

Dana Dratch is a freelance writer based in Atlanta.