Comfort crumbles; Classic puds are the perfect way to warm up colder nights and use up autumn fruit, says Jenny Longhurst.

Byline: Jenny Longhurst

AS the nights start drawing in and temperatures fall it's time for a return to comfort food and there are few better autumn desserts than a good crumble. With different fruit combinations and a twist or two to the topping, it can be served for anything from a cosy lunch or supper to a posh dinner party.

Food consultant Nerys Howell has re-invented the dish and her line-up of autumn crumbles makes the most of the food in season.

"Crumbles make great comfort food. They give you a taste of good home cooking and make a quick and easy way to use up a glut of fruit like autumn plums and pears," said Nerys who runs Howel Food Consultancy in Cardiff, advising food outlets throughout Wales on how to tempt visitors with the best from the Welsh larder.

She's travelled the world to trade fairs as far afield as Sydney and Singapore, showing off dishes made with Welsh produce and has just written a book called Wales on a Plate, focusing on lifestyle and traditions as well as recipes.

Nerys is all for making the most of fruits in season because it's when they naturally taste better.

"They can be used in crumbles even if they're a bit over-ripe and a crumble is so much easier to make than a tart," she said.

Nerys has adapted the summer fruit oaty crisp recipe from her book to come up with the apple and blackberry version here.

"It's the classic autumn combination," she said. "The blackberries are full of juice and the apples soak it up giving you a lovely blend of tart and sweet tastes."

She describes her plum, almond and amaretti crunch as contemporary rather than traditional although it's possible to use apricots instead of plums with the almonds for a more traditional flavour. Wales on a Plate, published by Garreg Gwalch, pounds 8.50 Plum and amaretti crunch Ingredients - serves four About 12 ripe plums, quartered and stoned 100g plain flour 75g cold butter 50g plus two tablespoons demerera sugar 50g amaretti biscuits, crushed 50g flaked almonds Method Pre-heat oven to gas mark four 350F 180C. Grease a 20cm (8in) ovenproof dish. Place plums in the bottom of the dish and sprinkle with the two tablespoons of sugar.

To make the topping put flour, butter and sugar into a bowl and rub together until the mixture is combined. Add biscuits and almonds and mix well.

Sprinkle crumble mixture over the plums and bake for approximately 35 to 40 minutes until the fruit is cooked and the topping is golden. Serve with vanilla custard or fresh cream.

Pear, chocolate and ginger crumble Ingredients - serves four Six to seven ripe pears, peeled, cored and sliced 100g plain flour 75g cold butter 50g plus two tablespoons light muscovado sugar One to two teaspoons ground ginger 100g dark chocolate, chopped Method Pre-heat oven to gas mark four 350F 180C. Grease a 20cm (8in) oven proof dish and place sliced pears in the bottom.

Sprinkle with the two tablespoons of sugar.

For the chocolate and ginger topping rub flour, sugar and butter together in a bowl until the mixture resembles fine bread crumbs.

Add ginger and chocolate and mix well. Sprinkle over the pears and bake for about 35 to 40 minutes.

Serve with stem ginger ice cream.

Apple and blackberry crisp Ingredients - serves four 250g cooking apples peeled, cored and sliced 350g blackberries 110g demerera sugar 90g butter, melted 40g plain flour 75g porridge oats Method Preheat oven to gas mark five 375F 190C. Put prepared apples into a greased 18cm (7ins) round oven proof dish and sprinkle with 50g of the sugar.

In a separate bowl, mix together the flour, oats and remaining sugar then stir in the butter until everything is evenly mixed.

Pour over the apples and bake for approximately 35 minutes until fruit is cooked and top golden brown