Color cosmetics new ingredients: here is a list of new color cosmetics ingredients introduced by suppliers during the past 12 months. For more information about the ingredients listed here, contact the supplier directly using the numbers provided.* Ajinomoto U.S.A., Inc. Fort Lee, NJ Tel: (201) 292-3180 E-mail: specialty_chemicals_cst@ajiusa.com Website: www.ajichem.com Eldew PS-304 NCI name: Phytosteryl/behenyl/ootyldedecyl/lauroyl glutamate tocopherol Suggested use levels: 0.3%-1.5% Applications: Sunscreens, lipsticks, creams Comments: Eldew is an emollient derived from glutamic acid, natural fatty acid, higher alcohol and phytosteryl. It forms lamellar liquid crystals identical to ceramides and has an excellent emollient efficacy. * Arkema Colombes, France Tel: +33 (0)149-00-80-80 E-mail: info.orgasol@arkema.com Website: www.orgasolcosmetics.com NCI name: Polyamide-5 Suggested use levels: 2-5% Applications: Oil/water emulsions, foundations, tinted creams Comments: Orgasol Caresse combines lipophilic and hydrophilic characteristics that have been fins-tuned to make its dispersion easy in oil-in-water-based emulsions (foundations, tinted creams) and to bring outstanding sensorial benefits. It imparts these formulations with a very unctuous and silky texture, with no greasy after-feel, and offers great comfort-in-use to these foundations without requiring silicone-based formulations. * Cognis Ambler, PA Tel: (800) 531-0815 E-mail: caresupportus@cognis.com Website: www.cognis.com NCI name: Propylheptyl caprylate Suggested use levels: 1.0-5.0% Applications: Face/body care, sun care, face and lip color cosmetics Comments: Cetiol SenSoft, the "happy" emollient, delivers a multi-dimensional softness, and has a very good solubilizing ability of crystalline, organic UV filters and good dispersion power of inorganic pigments, which enhance performances of sun care formulations. Cutina PES NCI name: Pentaerythrityl distearate Suggested use levels: 1.04.0% Applications: Face/body care, sun care, facial color cosmetics Comments: Cutina PES is the new O/W consistency wax which creates a non-waxy, light and caring skin feel. Cosmedia Gel CC NCI name: Dicaprylyl carbonate (and) stearalkonium hectorite (and) propylene carbonate Suggested use levels: 2.0-10.0% Applications: Face/body care, sun care, color cosmetics Comments: Cosmedia Gel CC is the emulsion stabilizer, suspending agent for pigments and texture agent. It creates melting texture with velvety, matte finish and supports an enhancement of smooth radiance. * Croda Inc. Edison, NJ Tel: (732) 417-0800 E-mail: marketing@crodausa.com Website: www.crodausa.com Trimoilient BC NCI name: Tris (PPG-3 benzyl) citrate Suggested use levels: 2-20% Applications: Sun care, skin care, facial makeup and sprayable sunscreens Comments: Patented citrate ester that works synergistically with organic sunscreen actives to optimize absorption in the UVA spectra. * Dow Corning Midland, MI Tel: (989) 4964000 E-mail: lifesciences@dowcorning.com Website: www.dowcorning.com/content/personal EP-9289 LL Cosmetic Powder NCI name: Dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer (and) lauroyl lysine Applications: Loose and pressed powders (eye-shadow, makeup); liquid and stick foundations; creams, lotions and gels; lipsticks, blush, eye concealer Comments: The combination of white cross-linked dimethyl polysiloxane elastomer powder and lauroyl lysine improves flow and reduces agglomeration, providing superior handling ease; allows creation of innovative textures; has good compaction properties; high sebum absorption profile. EP-9261 TI Cosmetic Powder NCI name: Dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer (and) titanium dioxide Applications: Loose and pressed powders (eye shadow, makeup); liquid and stick foundations; creams, lotions and gels; lipsticks, blush, eye concealer; sun care Comments: White cress-linked dimethyl polysiloxane elastomer powder coated with small particle size titanium dioxide provides soft focus effect and fluid/oil absorption capabilities; improves compaction; thickens volatile silicone; provides smoothness, powdery feel. EP-9215 Cosmetic Powder NCI name: Dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer Suggested use levels: n/a Applications: Loose and pressed powders (eye-shadow, makeup); liquid and stick foundations; creams, lotions and gels; lipsticks, blush, eye concealer Comments: A hard, white elastomeric silicone powder that provides a silky and powdery skin feel; improves color intensity and coverage in pressed powder formulations. * Elementis Specialties Hightstown, NY Tel: (609) 443-2500 E-mail: consumer@elementis.com Website: www.elementis-specialties.com Bentone Gel PTIS V NCI name: Pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, disteardimonium hectorite and propylene carbonate Suggested use levels: For suspension 2.5-10%, emulsion viscosity 3-5%, single oil viscosity 10-25% Applications: Lip products, mascara, foundations Comments: Delivers a combination of benefits such as cushioning emollience, long-lasting lubricious skin feel, high pigment wetting and glossy films. Hectorite clay allows rheological modification of the oil phase, which leads to increased viscosity, better spreading, thixotropic flow, enhanced product stability and a smooth skin feel. * EMD Chemicals Inc. Gibbstown, NJ Tel: (856) 423-6300 E-mail: rona@emdchemicals.com Website: www.rona.biz Timiron Synwhite 40 NCI name: Synthetic fluorophlogopite (and) titanium dioxide (and) tin oxide Suggested use levels: 0.1%-50.0% Applications: Lipsticks; lipglosses; eye, face and body powders; nail polish and personal care products. Comments: Timiron Synwhite 40 features a pure silverwhite pearlescent pigment based on synthetic mica. It offers high brilliance and sparkle effects, has a neutral white masstone color, and its thin flakes offer high luster and coverage. Accepted worldwide for color cosmetics and personal care products. * Evonik Goldschmidt Corporation Hopewell, VA Tel: (800) 446-1809 E-mail: Carla.Huffman@evonik.com Website: www.evonik.com/personal-care Tegolon 12-10 NCI name: Nylon-12 Suggested use levels: 1.0.6.0% Applications: Powder, foundations, makeup, nail polish, aerosols, rouge, eyeshadow. Comments: Ultra fine polyamide powder for use in color cosmetics, especially pressed powders and foundations. Suitable also for nail polishes and aerosols. Lowest water absorption of all commercially available Nylon-12 grades, enhancement of skin feel, smoothing and reduced shine. Tegolon 12-20 NCI name: Nylon-12 Suggested use levels: 1.0-6.0% Applications: Lipstick, foundation, powder, skin care, sun care. Comments: Tegolon 12-20 is an ultrafine polyamide powder for use in color cosmetics. Combines soft touch with good absorption properties, enhances contact time with stratum corneum and improves ease of application and spreadability. * International Specialty Products Wayne, NJ Tel: (973) 628-4000 E-mail: info@ispcorp.com Website: www.ispcorp.com UltraThix P-100 NCI name: Acrylic acid/VP crosspolymer Suggested use levels: 0.25-2.5% Applications: Color cosmetics, lamellar gel formulations, eye gels, cream gels, suspended gels, sun protection products, hydroalcoholic sprays, hand sanitizers and thickened PIT emulsions. Comments: UltraThix P-100 is a multi-benefit copolymer. In skin care, it delivers rheology with aesthetic and functional benefits. It offers emulsion stabilization, reduces tack and improves aesthetics of hydroalcoholic sprays, enhances skin feel properties, delivers water resistant formulations and tolerates metal oxides in formulations. Acnacidol BG NCI name: Butylene glycol (and) 10-hydroxydecanoic acid (and) sebacic acid (and) 1,10-decanediol Suggested use levels: 1.0-5.0%, clinically tested at 3% Applications: Cosmetic skin care products for mixed and oily skin; acne-prone skin; day creams and makeup; anti-bacterial products (e.g. deodorants). Comments: Acnacidol BG is a clinically tested royal jelly mimetic 10-HDA that controls and reduces sebum for acne prone skin. During clinical studies, it provided excellent results for seboregulation. It helped to decrease sebum synthesis in one hour and diminish the number of active sebaceous glands in one hour. In addition, it provides anti-bacterial and anti-fungal properties. Peptide Vinci 02 IS NCI name: Water(and) butylene glycol (and) hexapeptide-3 Suggested use levels: 0.25-1% Applications: Skin-repair and anti-aging products; men's products; body-firming products; facial treatments; lip treatments; lipsticks; sun care products; day makeup (e.g. foundations). Comments: Peptide Vinci 02 IS patented synthetic biomimetic fibronectin peptide. It reinforces cell adhesion to the extracellular matrix (ECM) and thereby promotes matrix remodeling and skin repair. It also promotes dermal repair and demonstrates a significant plumping, hydrating and smoothing effect on the lips (in-vivo). * Jeen International Fairfield, NJ Tel: (973) 439-1401 E-mail: info@jeen.com Website: www.jeen.com Jeesilc PS-VH NCI name: Isododecane, his vinyl dimethicone/dimethicone copolymer Suggested use levels: 5-10% Applications: Ideal for use in liquid foundations that require a fast drying, volatile, powdery after-feel from a non-crosslinked polymer gel. Comments: Jeesilc PS-VH from Jeen International is a new novel silicone polymer gel network that offers outstanding feel and cushion to the skin from a non-crosslinked polymeric network. It is ideal for a light powdery matte finish in color cosmetics. Jeenats 3H NCI name: Polyethylene Suggested use levels: 3-10% Applications: Liquid foundations, hot pour applications, water in silicone emulsions Comments: A low molecular weight, predominantly linear polyethylene that delivers good structure properties. Jeesilc PS-CMLV NCI name: Cyclomethicone, bis vinyl dimethicone/dimethicone copolymer Suggested use levels: 5-10% Applications: Ideal for use in lip applications that require a superior high gloss profile with a flexible film that is non-tacky. Comments: This ingredient is a new novel silicone polymer that offers outstanding film forming properties with exceptional feel and spread. It is compatible in stick applications. * Kemira Specialty, Inc. Northvale, NJ Tel: (201) 750-1055 E-mail: cosmetics@kemira.com Website: www.kemira.com/cosmetics Kemira AC360 NCI name: Titanium dioxide (and) alumina (and) triethoxy caprylylsilane Suggested use levels: 1-15% Applications: Lipsticks, powders, foundations, eyeshadows and makeup pencils Comments: An alumina-silane treated, anatase titanium dioxide of excellent photostability and dispersibility in oils. It imparts opacity, whiteness and depth of color, and it is ideal for inclusion in color cosmetic applications where coverage or lighter color is needed. * KitoZyme Herstal, Belgium Tel: 00324-259-85-00 E-mail: info@kitozyme.com Website: www.kltozyme.com KiOsmetine-CG30 NCI name: Chitin, beta-glucan Suggested use levels: 0.5-2% Applications: Lip care and foundations Comments: Innovative ingredient of vegetal origin, backed by clinical studies, KiOsmetine-CG30 can smooth, restore, moisturize and protect while delivering a nice after-feel. It also stimulates collagen renewal, giving lips a fuller appearance. * Laboratoires Serobiologiques U.S/Canada/Mexico Tel: (416) 843-6371 E-mail: customer-service.ls@cognis.com, sean.maguire.com Website: www.labserobio.com Cashmilan SPB 9864 NCI name: Water (and) hydrolyzed keratin Suggested use levels: 2% Applications: Eyelash conditioning and strengthening pre-treatments and mascaras, eyebrow treatments Comments: Can apply this ingredient to mascara application. Paraben-free and suited for sensitive eye formulations designed to beautify eyelashes and eyebrows. Biophytex LS 9832 NCI name: Water (and) butylene glycol (and) panthenol (and) escin (and) glycerin (and) ruscus acaleatus root extract (and) ammonium glycyrrhizate (and) centella asiatica extract (and) hydrolyzed yeast protein (and) calendula officinalis flower extract Suggested use levels: 3% Applications: Spider vein diminishing and dark circle reducing foundations and concealers Comments: A preservative-free synergistic complex of botanical origin that strengthens the capillary walls and improves microcirculation. Also available in active powder form for incorporation into anhydrous formulations such as concealer. Lipofructyl Argan NCI name: Argania spinosa kernel oil Suggested use levels: 1-5% Applications: Nourishing, moisturizing and repairing lip care Comments: An extra virgin Ecocert organic argan oil, which belong to the LS Sustainable Argan Program. Rich in poly-unsaturated omega fatty acids and in tocopherols, it helps restoring the barrier function of the skin, providing moisturization and protection. Skin and lips are intensively nourished and regenerated. * Lipo Chemicals, Inc. Paterson, NJ Tel: (973) 345-8600 E-mail: salesandmarketing@lipochemicals.com Website: www.lipochemicals.com Lipobutter Refined Organic Shea NCI name: Butyrospermum parkii (shea butter) Suggested use levels: 1-10% Applications: Products for skin care, baby, sun care, body, eye care, lip, hair care, after sun care products. Comments: Lipobutter Refined Organic Shea is rich in oleic acid and vitamins A and E. Produced from certified organic materials by Ecocert in Prance. Orgasol Caresse NCI name: Polyamide-5 Suggested use levels: 3-5% Applications: Ideal for skin treatment, sun and after sun, dry and mature skin, eye creams, daily moisture lotions, liquid makeup foundation Comments: Orgasol Caresse is a multi-functional product that will greatly improve sensory performance while delivering soft focus emulsion. Lipomulse Luxe NCI name: Cetearyl alcohol (and) glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-40 stearate (and) ceteareth-20 Suggested use levels: 3-6% Applications: Will enhance the feel of creams and lotions, liquid make-up foundations and high oil-phase emulsions. Comments: Lipomulse Luxe forms liquid crystal structures that serve to greatly increase long term emulsion stability as well as stability at elevated temperatures. * Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc. Noveon Consumer Specialties Cleveland, OH Tel: (800) 379-5389 E-mail: pcp.csr@lubrizolcom Website: www.personalcare.noveon.com Schercemol TISC Ester NCI name: Triisostearyl citrate Suggested use levels: 5-50wt% Applications: Recommended for use in lipstick and lipgloss preparations. Comments: Improves long wear, durability, gloss and color adhesion in lip formulations while also reducing syneresis. Its light color allows use with pale, pastel colors in cosmetic formulations. |
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