Colonial to contemporary: drink cultures old and new collide in Philadelphia, a city ahead of some trends and developing others.

Philadelphia stands on the Delaware River with one foot in the past, one in the present--and a toe in the future. While tourism is an economic key for the city where our Founding Fathers put their heads together and started a nation, an increasing number of financial, biotech and other service firms call it home today. Landmark buildings share the skyline with office towers and cranes erecting multi-million dollar condos. Philadelphians today range from venerable families with ancestral lines dating back to Colonial days to newcomers in their 20s and 30s seeking less expensive urban living than New York City or Washington, D.C.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

The restaurant and bar scene in Philadelphia reflects that dichotomy. Heritage and history abound in numerous taverns and pubs such as City Tavern--originally opened in 1773, and the site of the first Fourth of July celebration--and McGillin's Olde Ale House, Philadelphia's oldest continuously operating tavern. Just steps from these historic venues are contemporary concepts that fast-forward to an urban dining scene: Starr Restaurant Organization's sleek, Asian-inspired Buddakan and Morimoto, chef Mark Vetri's namesake eatery and his latest concept, Osteria, and sexy Latin hotspots such as Xochitl.

Delve into the drinks scene in Philadelphia, and the duality continues--authentic Colonial libations seem to go across the bar as frequently as classics and contemporary quenchers, but other trends also emerge.

BEER: COMMON MAN CONNOISSEURS

Philadelphians love beer, and they possess a fairly discerning palate. What's more, they love locally-brewed beer. When Philadelphians say, "I'll have a lager," they fully expect a Yuengling Traditional Lager, brewed barely an hour from the city at the nation's oldest consistently-operated brewery. With more than 20 breweries in the region--six in the city--Philadelphians are way ahead of the "drink local" trend.

"Philadelphia is like Germany--there's a lot of really good beer being brewed here," says Jon Myerow, a partner at Tria, a two-location beer/wine/cheese-centric concept. "It's hard to stand out in Philly because you can go to any corner bar and get Chimay or a craft. This is the best beer city in the U.S."

Tria is on the cutting edge of the Philadelphia beer scene. The first location, a 1,000-square-foot, simple yet hip place, opened in 2004 in tony Rittenhouse Square. Tria's beer list nods to area breweries while embracing Belgian styles and imports. "It's a small list--27 beers--so every beer has to count," Myerow says.

Changing twice a month, the list is organized by beer "personality." During our visit, "Invigorating" included the best-seller Allagash White, while "Friendly" offered Brooklyn Brown Ale and Bell's Special Double Cream Stout. "Profound" listed unusual labels such as smoky Haandbryggeriet Norwegian Wood, and "Extreme" put forth locally-brewed, ultra-hoppy yet citrusy Victory Old Horizontal. Of note: No Yuengling. "We're all about something rare, cool and unusual," Myerow explains.

To ensure Philadelphians understand "rare, cool and unusual," the Tria Fermentation School opened in 2006. There, typically sold-out classes instruct on all things beer, wine and cheese.

Over in the Northern Liberties neighborhood, Standard Tap's bartenders casually guide inquiring guests through the list of brews written on a moveable chalkboard above the highly polished but well-worn bar. The day we visited, there were no inquiries; these folks knew their beer, and easily navigated among drafts including Flying Fish ESB Ale, Legacy Euphoria, Riverhead Hop Hazard and Sly Fox Stout, Pale Ale and Dark Lager, along with two hand-pumped offerings--Yards ESA and Victory HopDevil Ale. Drafts range from $3 to $5; hand-pumped also are $5.

"Our beers are always local, and change daily," says general manager Dolly Das, adding that Philadelphians now are moving toward understanding beer with food. Standard Tap may be the reason, as the unassuming white corner building with wood floors, classic rock on the juke box, tin ceilings and wooden tables and chairs also is hailed as the city's first gastropub; it ranks 11th on Philadelphia magazine's recent list of the 50 Best Restaurants.

Beers from colonial time are on tap at City Tavern, which is where the term "bar and grill" originates. Director of operations Tom Lamb explains, "Taverns were rowdy places in Colonial times--there was excessive drinking and no air conditioning, and patrons sometimes got out of hand and went after the bartender. So, a grill was installed above the bar here; the bartender would lower it to protect himself when the crowd was stirred-up. Hence, 'bar and grill.'"

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

Perhaps City Tavern's Colonial Ale Sampler might have kept them calm. Four four-ounce pours are served on a wooden paddle for $9: General Washington's Tavern Porter, brewed according to the first President's recipe involving molasses, Thomas Jefferson's 1774 Tavern Ale, a wheat beer made with lemon and honey, Poor Richard's Ale, based on Benjamin Franklin's recipe and Philadelphia Pale Ale, made in the traditional English style.

Jefferson's Tavern Ale is the favored brew at City Tavern, although Yuengling also is popular. "In the 18th century, it was beer with food and wine by itself," says Lamb. "History sells, so we sell more beer than wine."

A beer-fueled party atmosphere exists at McGillin's Olde Ale House, opened in 1860 and boasting a classic old pub feel and a continuous stream of events. Quenching revelers' thirst are local and regional brews including Stoudt's, Victory, Yuengling and Dogfish Head, as well as national and imported favorites. The selection proves that from high-brow imports to local brews with character, Philadelphians know and enjoy beer while continuing to learn and explore with gusto thanks to forward-thinking operators.

TAKING THE WINE CHALLENGE

As with beer, Philadelphians definitely are more educated about wine than they were a few years ago. The wine learning curve is much slower, however, according to April White, food editor at Philadelphia. This is due in large part to the role of the Pennsylvania Liquor Control Board (PLCB), which handles spirits and wine distribution and retailing in the state. Every restaurant's wine selection is culled solely from the PLCB's list of available wines--an impressive 1,800 on the main list and an additional 10,000 special order selections, which are limited in availability, according to PLCB deputy press secretary Francesca Chapman. Also, the Sommelier Collection program offers 12 boutique wines priced at $9.99 to $29.99, while 50 more eclectic, high-end specialty bottles are listed under Chairman's Selection, priced higher than $29.99.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

Philadelphia restaurateurs can procure wine in any of three ways: through a distributor, purchasing at a PLCB store or ordering via the PLCB web site and then picking it up at a PLCB store. "The trick is figuring out which wines you want, what list they're on and how they can be purchased, which takes some legwork," says PLCB consulting sommelier Melissa Monosoff.

"You may see something online, find out that there are only two cases and they're in a store halfway across the state. So, you have to request they be transferred to a store closer to you, wait for that to occur and then go pick them up," she explains, adding that only those restaurateurs willing to make the effort to master the fine art of working the PLCB system can offer truly cutting-edge lists.

What's more, wines cost the same for restaurateurs and retailers, so pricing competitively is a challenge, especially when neighboring New Jersey restaurants and retailers are more than happy to satisfy wine-curious Philadelphians willing to cross the river. But, as the city's palate continues to evolve, more operators are making wine a priority and a point of differentiation.

In fact, Philadelphia does boast some rather nice wine lists. Sleek tapas restaurant Amada presents a deliciously Spanish-laden list, while XIX Nineteen in the Park-Hyatt Philadelphia at the Bellevue offers 200 wines, including selections from Idaho and Lebanon. While BYOB is the modus operandi for many smaller Philadelphia restaurants not willing or able to obtain a license or deal with the complexity of the system, some are taking the plunge and developing short, eclectic wine lists such as the Pacific Northwest-focused list proffered at Gayle in the South Street district, which focuses on American cuisine.

Standing out takes time and patience. "All our wines are special orders," says Myerow of Tria, whose partner, Michael McCaulley, spends hours each week sourcing unique wines for Tria's 27 by-the-glass selections. Recent offerings swung from the smooth Portuguese Alvarinho Auratus Quinata Do Feit al 2006 ($9) to the dark Buil & Gine Priorat 2003 ($13), a Spanish garnacha/cabernet blend. Each pour is five ounces in a 16-ounce crystal glass.

"What's available on special order now may not be in a few days, and the quantity ordered may or may not materialize. You've got to be flexible," Myerow notes. "And you have to deliver on the experience for the guest because, in some cases, we have to charge for a glass what they'll spend on a bottle of the same wine in Jersey." Their efforts must be paying off, however, as Tria is booming and a third location is in the works.

Across town in Olde City, Cuba Libre is working to further educate its guests on wine. Opened in 2000, the Cuban concept featuring a Havana courtyard atmosphere quickly broadened its exclusively South American list to include California wines. "The public was not yet familiar enough with South American wines to offer only those," says Bob Gage, director of operations for Libre Management. "But, our guest now is exploring. We're starting to bring in gems like tannat wines from Uruguay, which rival Argentina's malbecs and go wonderfully with our food."

Value reigns on the Cuba Libre wine list. "The guest knows the [PLCB] cost and can figure the mark-up pretty easily," says general manager Christian Leo. "We work very hard to keep pricing fair. It's challenging." By-the-glass prices range from $7 to $11; the top-selling bottle is Catena Malbec at $60.

Three-hundred-seat City Tavern caters to tourists and locals year-round, "so wine value is really important," says Lamb. The menu offers "Great Values," with wines such as Chateau St. Jean Cinq Cepages Cabernet Sauvignon for $99 a bottle. The remaining list is organized by Old World and New World wines. Riesling and gewurztraminer are popular whites, while cabernet sauvignon and pinot noir drive red sales.

Storage space is key to a strong wine program in Philly, says Lamb. "Really great wines are sometimes offered on a one-time basis to licensees, so you want to be able to buy in volume," he explains. "Everything by the glass moves, so we buy quantities of those wines, too. You've got to be strategic here."

City Tavern chef-owner Walter Staib bottles a bit of history in the private label Mount Washington red and white wines. The colonial-style wines in reproduction 18th century clay bottles, made by W. Klay Winery in southwestern Pennsylvania, sell for $45. Another throwback available at City Tavern is four Madeiras served in a reproduction of the five-ounce glass Thomas Jefferson designed to enjoy the fortified wine at Monticello.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

"We're the number one buyer of Madeira in Pennsylvania," says Lamb. "The more discerning guest looks forward to it, and we've recently added Alvada, a blend from Blandy's that appeals to today's guest."

EMERGING COCKTAIL CULTURE

For many years, Philadelphia was quite enamored by Cosmopolitans and Apple Martinis, thanks in large part to the Starr Restaurant Organization, whose high-profile venues did a fine job of perpetuating the trend. Philadelphians today are dabbling in the classics, as well as tipping contemporary Martinis and ethnic-inspired libations, although the cutting edge trends of culinary cocktails and molecular mixology have yet to truly arrive. Something tells me soon, however.

"You see more marketing of drinks and cocktails here," says City Tavern's Lamb. "Cocktail menus are becoming as important as food menus."

The Tavern Warmer--warm apple cider with brandy, rum or whiskey--was the most popular of the four history-infused libations served at City Tavern when we visited. Shrubs made with Cognac, rum, Champagne or Madeira sell well in summer months. Both are served in signature Pewtarex goblets, reproductions of pewter vessels that keep warm drinks warm and cold drinks cold.

Classic cocktails are the forte at Southwark in the Queen Village neighborhood. Under a pressed-tin ceiling, proprietor Kip Waide and aproned bartenders pass carefully crafted rye Manhattans and other standards across the long bar to thirsty throngs. Twenty rye whiskeys and 16 gins are highlighted in Aviations, Gimlets, Sazeracs, Old Fashioneds and more, fueling a growing interest among Philadelphians in flavorful spirits and sophisticated classic cocktails.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

Specialty cocktails are the calling cards at most of Starr's 11 Philadelphia restaurants. Concept-specific drink menus showcase today's hot flavors, ingredients and spirits, generating 45 percent of spirits sales. The Tomato Martini at upscale steakhouse Barclay Prime involves heirloom tomatoes, Ketel One Vodka, sweet vermouth and simple syrup. Japanese hot spot Morimoto's White Pear mixes Grey Goose Le Poire with sake, St-Germain Elderflower Liqueur and Bordeaux blanc. At Striped Bass, the Pear Drop marries Absolut Vanilla with Absolut Pears, simple syrup and a splash of orange juice.

Martinis, Gimlets, Gibsons and Rob Roys move well at Starr's retro hot spot The Continental, although sweet still sells well--as evidenced by the signature Buzz Aldrin: Tang, Absolut Peach and triple sec in a Tang-rimmed glass. Cosmo variations and Apple Martinis abound on other Starr drink menus.

Fresh ingredients are the norm behind Starr bars, and "our bartenders now are encouraged to go into the kitchen and the walk-ins because what's working there will work at the bar," says Peter Smith, director of restaurant operations.

Case in point: Asian-themed Buddakan's Enlightenment. "The chef was dicing Thai bird chiles, and I got to thinking," says general manager and former bar manager Josh Levine. Enlightenment combines Sauza Blanco Tequila with muddled cucumber, simple syrup infused with Thai bird chiles and lime (see recipe on page 13).

Philadelphians favor local products, so the launch of Bluecoat Gin in 2006 created quite a stir. Starr's Tangerine restaurant hosted the launch party for the crisp gin distilled by Philadelphia Distilling using organic juniper. Bluecoat is mixed with St-Germain and house-made quinine tonic in the Ultimate G & T at Barclay Prime, and is recommended on its own or with tonic at City Tavern.

Mojitos pop up on many drink menus across the city, a trend undoubtedly propagated by Cuba Libre. Hundreds of pounds of sugar cane are pressed on-site each week to produce guarapo, and 15 cases of hierba buena leaves, a Cuban herb similar to mint, are hand picked daily in a prep room dedicated to the Mojito ingredients. At the bar, the hierba buena leaves are shaken, not muddled, to prepare the restaurant's top-selling cocktail, the Classic Mojito. Each year, Cuba Libre sells 100,000 Classic Mojitos. The specialty usually features Cuba Libre brand white rum, but guests can choose from 80 others.

Cuba Libre's Gage hopes to expand Philadelphian's cocktail horizons with offerings such as Pisco Sours and Caipirinhas. "The Philly diner is getting more sophisticated, but we're still behind New York and D.C.," he says. He's also playing with new flavors and techniques. We sampled two drinks in development: a guarapo-infused mango rum and ginger root Martini, which was decidedly different, and a delicious cocktail involving freshly roasted pineapple and rum. "The cocktail scene is getting stronger here, but there is a ways to go."

Nightclub G in Rittenhouse Square opened with great fanfare in November, promoting a cocktail menu created by Modern Mixologist Tony Abou-Ganim. Not only did he bring his famed Cable Car, he also created a Pineapple-Ginger Mojito--house-infused pineapple rum, home-made ginger syrup, spearmint and hand-pressed lime juice--and other libations for the 10,000-square-foot club.

This was the first time a mixologist of this caliber dabbled in the market, but Abou-Ganim reports he has since presented training for Starr Restaurants and, together with King Cocktail Dale DeGroff, given seminars in Philadelphia as part of their Finlandia Vodka tour. With local operators looking to shake up the drinks scene and international bar stars coming to town, perhaps a new era in Philadelphia cocktail culture is afoot.

RELATED ARTICLE: Philly in focus

* Beer rules and connoissurs abound. Local beers are de rigueur; operators craft beer lists carefully.

* Wine market is developing, with operators challenged to keep selections fresh, in-stock and priced right.

* Cocktail scene is evolving, slowly moving toward less sweet and more savory, as well as whiskey-based cocktails.