Coffee break; Tom Morgan is sleepless in Seattle.

SEATTLE, it is said, is a city where salmon swim upstream in the middle of town, and where bald eagles share the sky with planes. It is also the crown of Washington State, home to Microsoft and Starbucks, a mountainous, forested region bolstered by the coffee bean and micro-chip dollar.

Seattle may trail the likes of Las Vegas, Miami and New York on most holidaymakers' American wish-lists but it remains a hip and diverse destination, especially since the grunge rock counter-culture explosion of the early 1990s.

The city's defining landmark is the Space Needle building, which dwarfs all that it surrounds. But it's the 100-year-old Pike Place Market, a bustling food centre near the city's harbour, that gives the region its lifeblood. The market is home to the world's first Starbucks coffee shop, but the smorgasbord of produce and family-owned cafes and restaurants are its greatest draw.

Bustling food stalls are often the most photogenic of settings, but this one is an assault on the senses, with vivid colours, eardrum-bursting shrieks from market traders and smells that linger across the city.

You might even find yourself swerving to avoid a flying salmon: fish-stall employees make a point, to the delight of onlookers, of throwing the weighty fish to one another.

From elite restaurants frequented by Hollywood star Robin Williams to market stalls lined with bargains, it is a veritable feast for even the most demanding foodie.

Michael Rogers, from Pike Place Breakfast Tours, helped us navigate our way through the sprawling market.

"You start on coffee, then drink more coffee," he tells us of locals' diets.

But as we feasted on local fish, Ukrainian pastries and crumpets that melted in the mouth, it was hard to believe him.

Even when you leave the city, you needn't look far for your next bite.

Surrounded by a fishing harbour and vast fertile countryside within an hour's drive, it is not hard to see how Pike Place became a success.

Located in the Pacific Northwest, Seattle is surrounded on all sides by the windswept waters of Puget Sound.

Touring around could not be easier, with boat cruises, open-top buses and monorails among the options. A favourite, if somewhat indulgent, choice is a short sightseeing flight with Kenmore Air (www.kenmoreair.com).

The trip takes you across the surprisingly Metropolis-like city towards the sprawling millionaire waterfront pads, including Bill Gates's extravagant home.

Tourists who can tear themselves away from the city are in for a pleasant surprise.

Washington State, blessed with spectacular natural assets, has added to its lure by offering an enticing combination of fine local wine and produce.

When it comes to farming, locals know their onions - indeed the vegetable is its biggest export.

We travelled to the town of Spokane on a short internal flight, and stayed in the welcoming boutique hotel of Hotel Lusso. After an artery-busting breakfast on a train carriage at Frank's Diner, our escape to the countryside was welcome.

We were taken to a farm in the rural outpost of Knapp's on Green Bluff to experience 'pumpkin chucking', where farmers have taken to using giant catapults to destroy surplus volumes of the vegetable.

As the third pumpkin was launched more than 100 feet wide of a makeshift bullseye, our host informed us: "We've never actually hit the target."

Talk to anyone in rural Washington, and they are likely to bend your ear about the region's wine.

The region struggles to compete commercially with California, but locals are tremendously proud of their vineyards, which have nearly doubled in size in the past five years.

Tasting trips can take you to Richland and Walla Walla, where you will drink more than enough to make you an overnight connoisseur.

After the fine wines and fresh local produce, including spectacular cheeses, you will be more than ready for a little exercise.

Our solution was to take to the water in kayaks.

The instructor from Spokane's Parks and Recreation (tel: [phone]) who guided us through the idyllic Little Spokane River, was as calm as the tranquil waters we followed downstream.

With the sun beating down on us, we barely realised we had passed an entire afternoon as we paddled our way through the region's rich, lush grassland.

Other outdoorsy and old-fashioned exploits included a horse-ride at Cherry Wood Bed & Breakfast in the Zillah region, where we trotted along for more wine-tasting at Silver Lake Winery.

As a debutant in the saddle, never had a small dose of Dutch courage been more welcome.

TRAVEL INFORMATION . Tom Morgan was a guest of Seattle and Washington State Tourism, and flew with KLM (ex-Heathrow from pounds 419 return, Birmingham from pounds 447) KLM reservations 0871 222 7474 and www.klm.com. Bon Voyage offers 10-night fly-drives from pounds 629 for October 2009-May 2010 departures, including flights and car hire. Bon Voyage reservations: 0800 316 0191

CAPTION(S):

The Space Needle dominates the spectacular Seattle skyline Pike Place Market and, right, the beautiful town of Spokane